Mopar1973Man

You might get a Youtube account and try it there. Also processing the video file down typically reduces the size of the video file and makes it easier for some picture/video site to handle it better. Heck... Using Ubuntu Linux 12.04, KDEnLive to process the video, and upload to Youtube I'm sure you can do it.

I can't complain... It only 1/2 ton axle (dodge axle) with Load Range C tires. That load was a bit wet and heavy had the trailer axle pinned to the stops. I've piled on bigger loads of dry wood. Just this picture was the first one I grabbed out of the picture album on the site. But back to the thread. There is a reason, design, and purpose for each style of trailer and hitch. They all have pluses and minuses to each one. Might now be a bad idea of listing some of these pluses and minuses for a RV / Trailer article about each style of hitch and trailer. Like my RV I choose a bumper pull for the simple reason I could load my ATV in the bed of the truck and still haul the trailer. With a 5th or goose I would lose the bed for hauling once again then have to haul doubles. Then there is a good chunk of camping areas I would have trouble in because of length. As for utility trailer like a car hauler if I was to buy one I would clearly go for a gooseneck myself because then I could use a turn over ball and still never have to mess with rails or 5th wheel frame in the bed. As for my little 8x8 utility trailer that was a $5 trailer I bought years ago. The only thing change was the pickup box (junked) and the flat bed was built and added a storage box for chainsaws and tools. I made that trailer because it follows the exact path of the truck through the woods and rather easy to maneuver through the trees getting firewood. Has the same axle height so if the truck clear the trailer will too. Then yes I could pile on the weight but with grades as steep as 16% in some roads in just not a good idea to over load or over pile the wood on the trailer. I've got a nasty dent/crease in the rear bumper from a large round falling out of the trailer and hitting the rear bumper. I like to haul loads without damaging the truck or trailer.

The name had me thrown too. I though for sure it was outside the USA. I've got a few members from other countries (Germany, Europe, Mexico, etc.) I just really starting to wonder what new country I was able to put a thumb tack on... :think:Ahhh... But it only New york... :kick:But still welcome to the family.

I just lay the $100 bucks on the table the rest is covered. The worst part is I got to drive clear to Boise or Ontario, OR typically for new glass like the last 2 that been replaced one in Ontario, OR and the other in Payette, ID. Price and cost isn't my trouble its the time, travel, cordination with other projects, etc. I don't just drive 180 mile one way for just a windshield... I typically ball it up with several other projects.

Typically it does mix well in warm temperatures but in colder temperatures it might just drop to the bottom. Stirring the fuel wouldn't hurt a bit. But I wouldn't stress it to much being the diesel fuel is a mild lubricant and its not like your starting with gasoline or alcohol. So pour it in and take it for a ride by the time you get back to the shop it should be stirred up for ya.

Actually had to take care of a project with Adams Co. Sheriff and a few other personal things in Council, ID and head home. Yeah Soda's out here are a long day's drive...

What's funny I was doing speed limit that stretch of road is only 55 MPH. It just broke this winter and my insurance company already knows about it I just waiting till all the highway are swept clean for the spring. So since in replacing the glass to have another trucker break it. In Idaho its not illegal till the crack in is the vision path. Mine is low on the glass so local police hasn't said a thing about when I went to the last four search & rescue meeting in Idaho co.

I got a crazy idea of grabbing my video camera and figure I would try to record on time lapse setting of 1 sec per frame and see what happens. Well it turned out pretty good and you get to see more of Idaho as a blur... Google map of the trip. http://goo.gl/maps/sQpRh http-~~-//youtu.be/k7g6O0BXBbI

Something a bumper pull can do... No sacrificing the bed space for 5th wheels or a goose neck. But for heavy haul like you do Mr. Mindless yes gooseneck or 5th wheel is the better option being the weight is all on the axle not the bumper. But even CajFlynn tend to show off some serious load on a bumper pull.

Because as the injector is cool there is ample room for the pintle needle to move but as the nozzle heats up the coked fuel on the needle and nozzle body take up the last bit of space and then at idle you get a stuttering injector because the pop pressure isn't high enough to fire the injector because its jammed up. But you'll notice if you leave the engine idle long enough to cool the injectors again the problem will disappear again. Also just turning on the A/C or hard brake pedal push the problem goes away (increased load on the engine also a increase in pop pressure). I've got a pop a while back where I measured everything during a injector cleaning and was seeing a slight change in measure before and after. Mine are short lived because there already high mileage injectors from CajFlynn. (+400k miles).

Wow! $900 is a lot of money to drop on a steering box. :spend:Once again the life of the stock steering box is based on the size of tires on the truck. If the tires are smaller 235/265 then the stock gear box will hold up forever. But install oversized tires and steering issues start happening hand in hand. So far at 212K on the clock my stock box is still tight and got zero issues. I've done one sector adjustment to pull a bit a slack out. But when it starts to leak I'll get steering box re-seal kit and do it myself for much less than $900...

Looks good. I kind of wonder about the life your truck has had. By chance did the truck do a lot of heavy hauling in the past?

1998.5 to 2002 the ECM uses IAT temp primary but not limited to that it can use also the battery temp sensor too which PCM delivers the information over the CCD network. But the sensor ISX shows is only for the overhead display.A/C system doesn't use any external temp sensors other that the low pressure switch which tries to detect freezing temperatures of the A/C system and shut down the compressor if it is occurring.

Here you go... ISX is improving the method... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7555-Injector-Cleaner-that-works

Sure thing... I would want the information from a owners manual and not some RV / trailer site. Here is a bad example of what I mean. There is no listing of axle ratio, transmissions, etc. Then the weights seem to be off from what the owners manual shows. http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trailer-Life-Towing-Guide-2003.pdf Here is my owners manual...

There is a typo in my last post. Corrected number I was trying to remember and post it and screwed it up. :banghead: Garmin GPS V ...... 21.6 miles ScanGauge II ....... 21.6 miles Truck Odometer .... 22.0 miles Ok... Bit long extended trip added into today till I quit... Garmin GPS V ...... 76.4 miles ScanGauge II ....... 76.5 miles (+ 0.1 Off) Truck Odometer .... 77.9 miles (+ 1.4 off) No. Already got correct speedometer for the most part. But this also proves my fuel data from the ScanGauge II is very close to accurate. (Formula: MPH / GPH = MPG) Between my 02 on 96 Dodges the 02 is off 0.5 MPH and then the 96 is a special case. The 96 shows 4 MPH fast on the needle but the OBDII port is right on the money.

Well here is run number two. I had to run down to Fire Station #3 this morning to drive a fire truck to Grangeville, ID. So I ran the test again for my truck from home to the fire shed and back to home. Garmin GPS V ...... 21.0 miles ScanGauge II ....... 21.0 miles Truck Odometer .... 21.6 miles Seem like my truck is truly 0.5 MPH as seen on the Garmin GPS V I've got. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod155.html

Why not just make a article database for RV / Towing and add write up to it. :smart:You can produce the information here and organize it. Then like I said add it to the article database then the world can share in the information. One pet peeve is I would like to get all the Dodge towing weights from 1989 to Current time as a article but I want it from the actual owners manuals not RV / tow sites. The numbers seen skewed.

More on Drag Coefficiency... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_drag_coefficient http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Vehicle_Coefficient_of_Drag_List As from what I found on Drag numbers for Dodge Ram truck range from 0.41 to 0.52.

A/C lines shouldn't freeze. This is a sign of low freon pressures on the low side. The lower the low side pressure get the colder it gets. So a typical automotive A/C unit is charged to roughly 35-40 PSI (R134a) and a normal house refrigerator is charged to 2-5 PSI (R12 days when I use to work with it). So I would verify the freon pressures again and be sure there is enough freon in the system.Dis-regard the red line I goofed...

Personally from what I read on the RV forum it not suggested to convert either a fifth wheel or goose neck back and forth. I know they sell adapters for it but there is some issues with stress on the adapters and the trailer as well. It seem that most RV's are typically 5th wheel where most ultility trailers are goose neck.As for me personally I tried to avoid either set up. I don't want to have a ball in the bed nor a fifth wheel plate to deal with. Not to mention the lost of storage space in the bed. Where most fifth wheel and goose neck set up either you remove the tailgate or replace with a notch tailgate.

Common Rails do some weird things including blowing the entire tip off the injectors.

Just to show the amount of return flow with a good 14-20 PSI supplied to the VP44...

Got the same problem. Dirty injectors. I can pull them out clean them and then the problem is gone. Just dragging tail about doing it again. Actually this time I'm going to have them pop tested and calibrated if I pull them out. Now seeing ISX new method of cleaning injectors I'm going to grab a can of carb dip and clean mine with that...

Mine failed at a 1/2 tank shown on the gauge but the tank was empty. Not always does the gauge just got to empty and die. Like my Dodge Ram 1500 has bad spot at 3/4 of tank where it drops to empty then works normally the rest of the span.