Mopar1973Man

I found out a way to test the sensor. Pull the sensor out of the block and hook it back up and place the sensor back into a cup of heated water. Now measure the heated water with meat thermometer and see what the ECM reports with a ScanGauge II if the numbers match then is fine... If not then the sensor is failing... Something I learned with Pepsi71ocean...

Well I don't know what to say... That is the only reason I see calipers bind up and freeze. It typically has to to do with heat generated during braking. Once the pistons get hot they collect harden brake fluid and grow in diameter. There is nothing else I know of that causes that. After about 100k miles I get the same thing where the piston bind up and have to polish the pistons to fit again. I typically use 600 grit sandpaper and fine tune the pistons to fit. Yes I've seen my own to the point that 120 PSI (air) would not push them out. When the one jammed piston came out it was with such force it busted the top where it hit the caliper. Caliper are basic hydraulics principal. There is only the piston and 1 seal. So something is creating excessive heat and causing the brake fluid to cake up on the piston to the point of jamming... I'm exactly like you... I live in the country, drive slower, but do use a exhaust brake much more. But I still get the same problem but typically around 100K miles.

Trick post I got hung up on...

Sorry no retarder or exhaust brakes... :duh:But all the autos are like this... But now the manual trans you can typically set a low gear range and occasional tap the brakes and control long down hills...

Calipers are not to blame. I noticed the 285's tires in your signature. Then I got to ask about you normal driving speed? What is happening is if your a high speed driver that possibly tailgates and constantly grabbing the brakes in city traffic. What happens is since you got the 285 on the tires they place more leverage force against the the rotors so it takes more clamping force of the caliper to slow down like a 265's tire would so there is more heat generated in the calipers. So after awhile the piston start to grow in size from the cooked brake fluid. This is another reason why brake fluid change should be done every 30K miles and the calipers opened up and inspected. I normally don't see the caliper piston problem till about 100k miles. I've use my exhaust brake for most of my stopping...

Might be true but I'm having poor experience with the fire trucks her that are auto's they have zero hold back ability and tend to over heat the brakes in a short order coming down some of our steep mountain roads. Please say its not so...

Dumb question? Is there a way to upgrade to the 6.7L lines as a possible upgrade?

Wow... Not good to hear about another product losing quality. But There is all kinds of optinos for a power boost but since your a Auto I highly suggest you upgrade the trans before adding serious power to the truck. So a Edge EZ would be a safe mild boost.

W&F your just so funny...:lmao:But seriously the blower motor is just easy to pull out and clean.

W&F I sure hope your wrong... I'm and manual kind of guy and really don't like the auto's very much...

Well tomorrow I'll be digging into the truck and doing some maintenance and repairs of miscellaneous things like adding my MPG fooler as a permanent switch, changing brake fluid, and changing fuel filters. It's been over 30K miles...

I tend to agree with the guys here... I would check over the vacuum lines and the CAD vacuum motor first before investing in a expensive cable kit.

I'm like Will...

Remember the fueling station pump are never absolute accurate. They can be off a small amount in 5 gallons. I watch the testing done at my local station and how its done. So if you calibrate once that's fine when you got a chance to check that's fine too. I typically set mine 0.1 highier making the MPG's just a touch lower. This makes me also work hard to get high numbers but typically I'm right close to the mark +/- 0.2 Gallons.

Any true offroad user should not use any sump. All it would take is one stump, log, or rock to swipe the sump off the bottom of the tank and leave you stuck. Drawstraw is legal to use on the streets where it might be a thin legal line for a sump on the streets.

Not a back but a leg problem... But I did nominate him on the first TOTM but he never responded. Trying to call him. But just a voice mail box. I left a quick message to call me back and give a update...

What I do is gain my on/off trigger from the trailer relay. That leg becomes hot (+12V) in either parking light position or headlight position. So this triggers on the fog lamps anytime the headlight switch is in any ON position. As for the fog lamp socket that particular pin happens to be +12V when on low beam and 0 Volts on high beam so this provides toggle for hi/lo position fog lamps which follows most traffic laws of only having 4 lights lit while on the highway. So there is 2 headlights and 2 fog lamps which follow the dimmer switch and follow the headlight mode without adding more switches. If the headlight where last on hi beam and you switch to parking lamps then automatically the fog lamps drop to lo beam mode because of the fog lamp lead. The only added switch I placed in the system is to disable the fog lamps all together so you could have true just parking lamp mode.

That's my problem right now. I've been watching the LED craze for a while even for the RV interior lighting. But they are so expensive for small amount of return right now. Like right now if I was to rebuild my light system completely 4 new bulbs is $72 buck and 2 relays are $22 bucks. So for the cost of 1 LED light I can still build a sealed beam setup that is just as bright for the most part. I know LED's use way less power. Less load on the alternator/batteries. Some LED's are awesome bright. Just the price is way too high.

Neither the cold air intake or the intake elbow is going to do much for a daily driver. Like ISX has just found out for us that cold air intake are meaningless because after the turbo the intake air is roughly 300-400*F so cold air does nothing to aid this really. Now the intercooler is what does the magic and getting the boost charge down to outside temps again. But the intakes typically don't do much for a daily driver. Now if you full on racing yes I would say upgrade to gain that last 5 HP at 4,000 RPM's but for a nearly stock engine there isn't any gains to be had. Now if its a 3rd Gen then yes you would be smart because there intake is choked.

TFC? What is that by chance?But that avg is pretty good. Now to push it a bit more...

Ok... I do know.I've managed to contact him by phone awhile back he's with a personal injury that got him stuck at home plus he's killed his laptop. Last time I talked to him he's doing good but not really capable of walking to good yet.I'll see about contacting him again and get a update for you guys.

The reason I went with flood light (sealed beams) is because out here in Idaho they use a lot of gravel on the highway and then traveling dirt roads you always end up with a broken lens on your fog lights. So if you have fancy PIAA's or such in about a year or so you'll end up with one broken from a rock. Then short time the rest of the light is ruined. With the NAPA sealed beams no biggy. $18 buck pick up another and move on. So the LED technology might be great but hopefully the lens technology is better than glass lens because once you break those it game over and your hard earned money is down the drain.

My method of doing it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0TfquTPNX8

Next model year is going to have rubber gears next...

I would say the diesel fuel that sprayed all over must of got something wet connection wise or something else came loose and prevented the starter from turning.