Mopar1973Man

Thanks! Here is the video from the page... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fq2rdmNwRw

I saw over on another diesel site and figure I would share it. What info you want?

My design is for the offroad application where I climb steep grades and come back down them. So the pipe over the back is not required but sure works in keeping the oil in the crankcase when descending steep grades or mountain slopes like I do with getting firewood.

I can tell you my Jacobs exhaust brake has a seriously heavy return spring so heavy its nearly impossible to move the butterfly close by hand. Then the butterfly has a tuned port hole in it to prevent excessive back pressure build up at high RPM's.

I list what I've got for diagnostics but the rest of the code are not common Cummins / Dodge codes at all. So as for the ones with ??? I'm not sure what to tell you maybe your ECM is failing...

I just helped a neighbor to go through his truck and its a 1994 Dodge and its never been tabbed but after 400K miles it still in place barely walked out at all. Shocker...

When you try to repost it should have a button to restore saved post.

I don't think the size will bother it but the CPVC plastic itself I'm a bit wondering how it will last with hot engine oil and will it get brittle and break or not?

The only thing is we are going to need a heavy duty upgrade to the front suspension...

I did not hook the fuel pump to the batteries. I hook mine to the PDC where the red heavy gauge comes in. This way there is no corrosion problems with the wiring. So the pressure drop after grid heater is going to be a regulator problem most likely or gauge issues if its a electric sender. The sealing washers are the stock washers used on the banjo bolts I'm talking about. If it was me I would pull the regulator out and inspect it and see if you can spot possibly issues of sicking or such.

No air bag at all... :shrug:So far with everything I've towed I can't find a reason for air bag yet. I rare to even get my truck to sit on the helper springs.

Yes. But you'll have to figure out the mixture ratio that vehicle likes best. Start at 200:1 and work your way towards 128:1 and watch you MPG and exhaust smoke.

Well some of you seen my firewood pictures I'm sure. I'm not sure you want to call that fun. More like work to me... :duh:Like I told MoparMom I'm going to get busy on the RV and pack the axle bearings and get the brakes look at. It time to get ready for another year of hauling the RV around. Yipeee!

(Moving to normal forum no longer in danger)

Word of caution... I don't suggest going over 20 PSi. There is a lot of people reporting going 25-30 PSI without failure. But this is nearly double the stock pressure and is not needed. Once the overflow valve open the return line is limited on how much it can flow being its much smaller than the 1/2" big line so don't get carried away with your upper pressure limit.

I took off for a ATV ride up Hazard Road to play in the snow with my ATV and friend down the road brought his old beat up 3 wheeler and managed to get 4 miles up the road. Dumb part was I took my cameras with me but didn't shot a single thing... :banghead:

What The...I think that engine is done.

Personally I don't use any thread sealants on any fuel fittings. Just to risky to have a gob of permatex or Teflon tape get sucked into the VP44 and it would most likely plug it up and ruin it. That what sealing washers and o-rings are for. As for tapping for fuel pressure gauge I use brass fittings because they are self-sealing to some degree.I would take the regulator out and inspect it. I'm not very fond of the newer adjustable regulators they never seem to be able to hold the pressure even like the old spring and check ball does.

Keep it in the green... (14-20 PSI is optimal) Standard specs... Yes. A Big Line Kit can flow up to 520 GPH compared to the stock lines (6mm ID) can only flow 75 GPH.

That's not even right... :duh:I would see about finding something in a salvaged alternator.Then I would look at figuring out the wiring.

Best I can say is run the diagnostics... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

For use 02 Dodge's we are limited to a trailer weight of about 13,400 or so. (Owner manual will list them all).When shopping for a RV...* Use the GVW of the trailer skip the dry weight and stated pin weight. Because these two numbers are too low and not real. I don't think you would buy a RV and tow it around totally empty would you? So its best to use the GVW rating and calculate a roughly pin weight so you can fit it to your truck properly.* As for the RV interior. I suggest you play house for a few house in the RV with your whole family if possible. Lay in the beds, use the bathroom (to see if you fit), try cooking a imaginary meal, or just hang out in the living room. I went from RV to RV and alway found something that didn't fit. Some beds are too short for me. Some bathrooms are so small I could whack elbows just getting dressed or taking a shower. Remember this is going to be your new home and it not like you can remodel it to fit you so make sure it fits the family before laying down the cash. Then look over the RV for maintenance things. Ask the dealer about wheel bearing, brakes, etc.* As for the truck. hitching a RV either 5th wheel or travel trailer takes some consideration. I would highly suggest that all truck should have gauges before towing (Boost, pyro, fuel pressure, trans temp {if auto}). Make sure to upgrade any weakness in the truck like lift pump, auto trans upgrades, etc.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/277-p0112-intake-air-temperature-iat-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/278-p0113-intake-air-temperature-iat-sensor-voltage-too-high You might read over the error codes and it will explain how to test the wiring for issues. Still in all you should not need grid heaters at 40*F start. I don't even bother with the WTS light at all on my truck with temps above 32*F. But since this is a 3rd Gen I would see about having those injectors looked at. It really common to see injectors that have failed and CP3 can't build rail pressure up to fire the injectors because one or more injectors are leaking.

Question what is the GVW?That pin weight is going to be dry weight so the pin weight is typically 20-23% of GVW. You might consider the weight ratings of your truck vs. the trailer. I know ol' CajFlynn is a towing guru of sorts here. But he's got the luxury of adjusting the boats on the trailer to get the hitch weight where he wants it. 40 foot is quite long and going to be difficult to tow with a SRW 3/4 ton. I'm not saying it won't do it but its going to tug and pull more. My 31' Jayco can make my 02 Dodge dance a bit on a windy day.

Come on down... No problems Canuks here... Ha! I'm lighter and longer 31 foot and scales at 7,500# loaded GCW 16,100#. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=egBt6Zl0vs4