Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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How to check vp44 wiretap
Bad wire tap... It should be the same voltage as the battery. The 12V signal should be there with the key on.
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everything went wrong....
Kind of like me tossing a hose clamp in a my BHAF for the turbo to chew on... :doh:I feel your pain I really do. Sucks when you invest money to do a simple project and it totally get ruin by a simple mistake.
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Low power and milage from day 1
You got to remember the 1st gen was a 160 HP engine if I remember correctly. 160 HP get consumed rather quickly pull heavy loads. Now as for the VE pump its a dynamic timing pump but has a few sensors that control the advancement. Might want to check over that and see if the timing is correct and the timing advancement hardware is all hooked up and functional.
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Losing faith in Napa's calipers
Same here mine was later but the same issue. It not a caliper problem it the simple fact of the brake fluid caking up on the pistons. I'm still running the same factory OEM caliper rebuilt them twice now and the same issue both times is the piston caking up with heated brake fluid. That picture above was during my second rebuild of the calipers it cost me a total of $130 bucks for... [*]brake pads for front and rear [*]Turn the rotors [*]Seal and boot rebuild kit for front and rear. Like I said calipers are such simple devices and as long as the piston freely fits the bore without seals there is absolutely nothing wrong with the caliper.
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How to check vp44 wiretap
... or in my case at the red wire.
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MPG fooler / High Idle Mod
Here is the video...
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Bigger air dam to increase mpg?
I noticed about 1 MPG gain to MoparMom's 1996 Dodge with and without the factory air dam on her truck. Even though the air dam is only about 3 inches it does actually help the MPG's by reducing the wind drag under the vehicle. If I was to drop the truck a few more inches I could gain even more.
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Diesel Noise
I got something you can try. Pull all your injectors out and put then in a bowl. Then fill the bowl with injectors submerged in Power Service or any fuel additive you wish. Then wait 24 hours worth of soaking. 99.9% of the time nothing happens the injectors are still filthy and have coked up fuel internally and carbon coated nozzles. The only way to clean a injector is to disassemble and physically clean by hand. So if soaking 100% injector cleaner does nothing then happens when you mix it at 400:1 ratio as suggested by PowerService? Which is 4,480 ounces (35 gallons) at 400:1 ratio is 11.2 ounces in 4,4480 ounces of fuel. I hardly doubt that mixture is going to do anything thing if a 100% didn't do anything...
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BHAF
Only gain you'll see is the filter last a lot longer and passes only clean air. EGT's and HP/TQ gain are going next to nil.
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Code p0237
Try this too... Run the diagnostic to verify everything. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low
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MPG fooler / High Idle Mod
Well I gone and added the 4th switch to my setup. It didn't take long at all to daisy chain in the 3rd switch to the IAT and make it functional. No longer have to play with rheostat's or stuffing the IAT plug with wires. I'll get my video up here really quick.
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how loud is your intake?
Intake temperature has nothing to do with EGT's only the intercooler does. The turbo discharge temperature will always be about 300-400*F at full run so what ever cold air intake your turbo discharge will still be hot. Stock air box are know for leaking dust because the plastic of the box will distort in time and not clamp down properly sealing the panel filter. This why I switched to the BHAF. As for the noise I would consider putting the silencer ring back into the turbo it will quiet it back down to a mild roar. Mine is obnoxious without the silencer ring while towing my trailers.
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Diesel Noise
Dorkweed and diesel4life are right. Colder the weather the higher the cetane is required. Then higher revving the engine the higher the cetane is required. But that's why racing diesel use 55 cetane is to get a complete burn but then overfuel the engine to gain back the lost BTU's in the high cetane this why all racing diesel smoke like freight train. But like my self I drive at 1,200 to 1,800 RPM's normally so I don't need high cetane fuel but lower cetane. Every winter Idaho diesel fuel is 50-55 cetane on average but MPG are reduced. But come summer time when cetane is reduced to 40-45 then the MPG jump back up again. Then for fun I was at a dyno event and watch then dyno a 12V Cummins truck on normal sumer fuel, then dyno on cetane booster, then on 2 cycle oil. This truck was nothing more that a street machine nothing fancy. With the cetane he lost HP by about 20 HP and with 2 cycle oil at 128:1 he was about 5 HP over the normal summer fuel. Depends on your application of what your going to use you truck for on what type of fuel to use.
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Injector cleaning question
I use either Mineral Spirits (paint thinner) or naptha (coleman fuel). I've been know to mix both together for cleaning. As for doing injectors I do then one at a time to prevent mixing of part and so the pop pressure isn't altered.
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Diesel Noise
ISX got the mechanical part of it nailed. But now why does the 2 cycle oil effect it? Simple because the more you reduce cetane the slower the fuel ignites and burns so instead of a violent knock (explosion) you get more of a strong push. Also remember the more your reduce the cetane towards 40 the more BTU's are in the fuel. From the ATSM testing labs...
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Quiet free flowing exhaust
Then you would be after a diamond eye muffler or similar. Inside the cab it very quiet and I've gotten lots of comments of how quiet it is. But outside the cab there is a bit of noise to it. But like I said jump on the throttle and then the Mighty Cummins speaks up.
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engine over cooling
See IAT Temps... ECT sensor ohm values are the same. [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
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Relocation / idle
If you got any quick connection fitting you might need to upgrade them to full JIC / Push Locs. The problem is the quick connect fitting don't hold up under suction very well and the o-rings are known to leak. So if you upgrade using the old school JIC fitting you might gain a bit more stability back to your pressure as well. It does seem like a air leak.
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starting trouble when hot
That typical for guys that follow the book torque values for the injection lines. Most will tell you its by leak and feel type of thing you really can't exactly follow the book TQ numbers.
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No W-T-S light anymore.
Personally its easier to use a live data tool like ScanGauge II or UltraGauge and check for 2 matching temp between ECT and IAT temp. But here is the ohm values for the IAT. But still and all even with my force 143*F IAT that is basically a resistor stuff in the plug I still get Wait To start light for a bulb check yet. [TABLE] [TR] [TD=align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
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Urgent Alert Beware Patriots – HIGH IMPORTANCE
You might want to look this over... http://beforeitsnews.com/alternative/2013/03/urgent-alert-beware-patriots-high-importance-2592832.html From: Victoria Baer Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 5:37 AM To: victoria Subject: URGENT ALERT STAT STAT STAT: Beware Patriots - HIGH IMPORTANCE Importance: High Ok, all….time to be very aware and stand guard!!! INTEL BRIEFING – 3/11/13 For dissemination throughout the Frontiersmen and to our friends RE: Federal action against patriot groups in US Today at 10AM there was a very large meeting at the FBI's Criminal Justice Information Services Division (CJIS) headquarters in Clarksburg, WV. The meeting was held in an auditorium and included everyone – from agents to the secretaries. The meeting was organized by the Director of the Biometric Identification Management Agency (BIMA), Colonel Bolo (ret.). Bolo summarized the purchase of 24 new armored vehicles (each costing $400k) and the recent appearance of 20 mobile headquarters that are now present at the facility. The mobile units are semi-trailers with attached generators in the front; are of a shiny, mirrored-silver finish; and have no identifiable markings on them at all. There are 20 of them parked (visibly in front) at 1000 Cluster Hollow Rd, Clarksburg, WV as of today. Additionally, there are 24 armored cars (the same ones we have seen with DHS markings) parked in a different lot on this property, but they too may be visible. The Colonel went into great detail on a list of patriot/constitutional groups. According to witnesses, this is a list that may be identical or very close to the one put out by the SPLC but had over 1000 groups on it. He explained that although groups may take advantage of the 2nd Amendment debate to garner followers now, at the heart of all these organizations is a racist core; one that poses a threat and will need to be dealt with soon. This is when he tied the armored cars and mobile command trailers to ‘the mission’. The armored cars (those at the facility and nationwide) are to effect high-risk warrants on the ringleaders of the listed various groups with command centers being placed as necessary. The DHS and FBI are planning to move at one time against the listed groups; with SWAT teams being utilized against the more threatening ones. The colonel explained that all these groups have been successfully infiltrated and the leaders identified. He also explained that this is part of the new Internal Security Force that the president has been alluding to. In answering a question from an attendee regarding the mass purchase of ammo, he also stated that the buildup of arms and ammo was specifically for this ‘mission’. The witness has told me that after the meeting, everyone they seen were against this. People were complaining, shaking their head in disbelief, and asking what the heck going on. According to them, NOBODY (including federal agents present) planned on going along with this and many even talked about how this will ignite a war. The report I received can be verified through any personal contacts you may have at this center or connected to the agencies mentioned. You may also visibly inspect the lot for these trailers by driving to the location in Clarksburg. The witness was extremely bothered by the meeting and has said ‘it is coming and a hell of a lot sooner than people think’. I used to think that mass roundups would never happen – but with this new information, I can clearly see that this is exactly what is going to happen (at least to a certain number of militia/patriot groups). And inevitably, any action this crazy will result in a reaction by others. The specter of Civil War in this country is a real and present danger folks – prepare. NOTE: I did ask a whole bunch of additional questions which hopefully will be answered soon. *Thanks given to the Indiana Sentinels and the Frontiersmen for the information*
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Broken thermostat?
So back to the thermostat... This is one of the reason I don't ask question and replacement every time I change coolant. If the last thermostat is functional yet I keep it as a spare just and case. But I change coolant every 30K or miles and thermostat at the same time.
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starting trouble when hot
Here is a good fuel pressure gauge and low price but high quality. http://www.alligatorperformance.com/gauge-mechanical-fuel-pressure-black-p-1678.html So after picking up some misc. fitting and air brake line you could be about $50 or so bucks.
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Install fuel pump in series with in tank pump
Question what is back in the factory location for a pump? (Brand)
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Wolves in Idaho?
Same here in Idaho. The CC permit is required in a vehicle. To be open carry in the vehicle the weapon has to be on the dash and unloaded. Yeah... Big pain in the rear...