Mopar1973Man

I always start with 2 things. 1. Fuel pressure (Idle and WOT at highway speed)2. Error codes

I'd like to see pictures of this. Another thought it since its copper you could have it plated or chromed...

I'd shy away from the electric valves. I rather like to have the choice of controlling the valve. We've got one water tender in the fire dept with one and works really good at holding 30,000 pound water tender on a slope. Yes we still use wheel *****.

Kind of like my hose clamp in the turbo...

Be aware the PacBrake is a bit different than the manual. I've got a local that got one and is not very happen because it only works in the upper gear while locked up. So some trans work mine need to be done to gain the lower gears.

If he sends me a email I will send him a picture of the headlight wiring and why its going to be a pain for him...

I'm sorry I've never heard of it. :shrug:Be aware none of those wiring diagram will work with our Dodge Ram.Battery +12 -> Fuse -> Head light -> Dimmer switch -> Headlight Switch -> Ground

I carry a spare key in my wallet for that exact reason. I've already been locked out of my truck on a fire call. :banghead:

If you look at most medium duty truck they use mostly air brake line for all the gauges. Stuff it through a grommet and away you go.

To go along with ISX statement... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8 So the whole cold air intake comes to a rest now. What ISX is getting at is the intake temperature after the intercooler. It all up to the intercooler not the cold air intake.

Something like this... http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63028/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710594088&catargetid=1784155633&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIKOpqXVx7UCFap_QgodZzkAtQ http://www.mico.com/products/lever-lock

But there is a difference... Mindless tows for a living and Rogan typical is empty. (or are you?)

I tend to agree mechanical gauge much more accurate than tapping the OBDII bus or electronic gauges.

Russ is right... My reasons was with all the offroad use I rub holes in it. So the one that was given to me lasted about 6 months and in the trash it went with holes.

Yeah. You could just cap it off.

Yes. Any 2 cycle oil works but I suggest staying to petroleum based products.

I got 135,000 miles (217,000 km's) out of my first BHAF. There wasn't any restriction shown by the filter finder but the filter media inside was starting to darken so not wanting to risk the engine I replaced at that point.

Oh Man sorry to hear about the damage. Glad to hear your OK too geez your damn lucky. :pray:Typically with me I will not leave my truck idling with only the parking brake holding the truck while hitched up to a trailer. I will always put the transmission in 1st gear, set the parking brake and shut down the engine before leaving the cab.So something else to toss in your shopping list is look at the parking brake cables as well. I've had one cable completely rust up solid and only get one side to hold so the truck tends to creep because one side isn't enough.

Pull the cord off and ohm out the cord from end to end and see if you got shorts to ground or neutral.Then ohm the heater itself without the cord so you should see resistance. Someone help me out here its like 20Ω to 30Ω roughly guessin'

But I got you covered with a full list of codes here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes Personally I like the UltraGauge and ScanGauge II because both have live data displays where a cheap OBDII just does error codes and reset the CEL light. For the extra $60 bucks you can add another tool to the pile.

I would take it to a Dodge Dealer drop a DRBIII tool on it and find out whats up. If its just a software issue have them flash both ECM and PCM again to get everything back in order.

Big Line Kit would help it out a bunch. The stock fuel lines and banjo bolts are restrictive.

There is another way. I've been told if you can get your fingers on a 12V tappet cover you could change covers and then never worry again.

Grab a OBDII code reader and pull the codes.Then hook up a fuel pressure gauge and test for fuel pressure.Oh Yeah... Welcome to the family.