Mopar1973Man

Very curious what you find out. But as for the 2 cycle oil to be the cause I kind of doubt it. Typically 2 cycle oil will mix on contact with diesel fuel and the slosh of the fuel mixes it as well. But something that thick I will be looking at fuel stations maybe a bad tank of biodiesel? I know that a bad tank of biodiesel will separate and sink to the bottom.

You could send then into Vulcan Performance and have them re-nozzle, pop-test, and flow matched. Or really cheap just send them in and have them pop tested and tuned.

Next weekend I'm going to hand the video camera to my buddy "Kelly" and let him video record me cutting trees. A old rancher named Rex Baker up here taught me a bunch of trick and tips to getting what you want and being safe about it. But in that video that's all Alpine Fir as far as the eye can see that was scorched from the Poe Cabin fire. We are just getting busy clearing a spot to work from. The ground is flat and I can back the truck in to work now. Only about 12 miles from the highway and another 23-25 miles of highway travel.

I did something long ago. I installed a fused terminal strip under the dash with... [*]+12V Battery power (20 Amp fused) [*]+12V Keyed power (20 Amp fused) [*] Ground (Negative) So this allows me to hook all accessories to this terminal strip without tapping wires under the dash. Ok. How it was done. I Ran a fuse lead from the alternator fuse in the PDC (Power distribution center) to the first terminal on the strip. Second I tapped a keyed hot fuse on the fuse panel in the cab to trigger a relay to switch power from the battery terminal to the second terminal. So on the relay the 85 goes to that switch hot fuse, 86 goes to ground on the terminal strip #4, 30 goes to the #1 terminal (+12V) and 87 goes to terminal #2. Terminal #3 is unused. Terminal #4 is a ground wire ran to a clean body ground. No wire are ran to the battery directly so to prevent the corrosion from eating the wires. No load is placed on any stock wiring other than the small milliamp load of the relay. So at this point you can wire in as much accessories as you wanted and have +12, key hot, and ground all in one package...

Check the starter solenoid fuse. I've seen fuse crack instead of blowing out so check it with a ohm meter.Check the starter solenoid relay. You can swap with something else.If you put 12 volt power to that brown wire it should turn over.

Load Range D's would fit you bill just fine. I've got D's on my RV with a GVWR of 8,500#. They have a maximum inflation pressure of 60-65 PSI. Personally when it comes to a new set of tires I'll up size mine from Load Range D's to Load Range E's...

:cookoo:Alternator is already grounded to the engine, and the engine is grounded to the battery.

I tend to agree with Dave the wiring is a bit concerning. The location of the ECM is on the driver side of the block. Can't miss it silver box with a 50 pin connector.As for that wiring I'd buy a roll of shrink tubing and roll of solder and solder all joints and shrink tube it. Ask Wild and Free about Scotch-Loc's on how much he loves them.

I would double check the VP44 to ECM wiring as a starter. Then double check both battery gorunds being the ECM and VP44 are directly connected to the driver side battery ground and the PCM is connected to the passenger battery ground.Since this is a wild throttle problem I highly suggest having the alternator tested for AC noise. If there is over 0.1 Volts AC then the alternator failed. Typical bench test just tend to test for DC output at load but you also got to test the AC noise level typically with a newer test bench, oscilloscope, or a high quality DVM like a Fluke.

I'll see what I can do next time passing the shed. I've been so busy hauling firewood...

Heck. I just got another heavy load of firewood yesterday and had both front and rear axles inflated at 60 PSI the only thing that was squirrelly was the fact the load was so tall that the truck rocked back and forth on highway. Very stable other wise just the center of gravity was way high. Set of 235/85 R16 HighFly's ...

This is for Pepsi that requested this video clip but here we go with more Screaming Beavers...

Uh... NO! :nono:I'll keep eating cows, chickens, pigs, elk, deer, and other meat providing animals...

Truck RAWR: 6,084# Load Range E's 3,042# x 2 tire = 6,084# Little inflation math using my trucks weights. 2,860# / 2 = 1,430# / 3,042# = 0.47 x 80 PSI = 37.6 PSI 2,860# / 2 = 1,430# / 3,750# = 0.38 x 110 PSI = 41.9 PSI Not really all the different...

Headlight fuse is most likely blown too.

Wow! Amazing he even got the factory ABS brakes controller hooked up and the PDC box under the hood!

Welcome to the family. I got to admit that a nice Fummins...

I was running a 235/85 R16 Load Range G tires (14 ply tire) with with weight rating of 3,750 at 110 PSI... But 3,750 x 2 = 7,500 axle weight which is beyond the 3/4 ton ratings (6,084# RAWR) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4182-Aluminum-Rim-Failure/page2

Yeah. You got to pull a vacuum on the system to be sure there is no moisture in the system and to dry out the system because moisture will freeze and and plug up the system. Not good...

Since I got a RV dump station in my front yard its no big deal for me. I can rinse and clean my tanks all I want. Out in front of the guest house is a sewer clean out which is awesome. I just back in with RV and hook up and dump just like the public dump stations. But I've got all the water in the world so I can dump the tanks, fill with fresh dump again, then add a cup of bleach to all three tanks and fill and let sit over night. Then dump in the morning absolutely no smell at all. Sensors are clean and functional as well. I typically leave the waste valves open and the tanks to dry. The only thing that really gets my goat going is the previous owner didn't keep up on the flushing part so solid waste was crammed in the knife valve seals so the outlet was always full of waste water when you open the cap. (Ewwww! ) So I ended up pulling all 3 knife valves and cleaning the seals and re-installing again. Now they hold tight and no issues. The only thing I'm really really careful about is the potable water tank. That I will sanitize every spring with bleach solution and flush and fill again. I will only fill with water from home after getting sick from filling with city water at a RV park. Never again. It really does suck to go out on a trip and get sick from drink city water. This Idaho boy has been living on good ol' fashion well water for 25 years and just can't drink the city water at all.

Correct the oil has to be filled in the compressor. Typically the PAG oil is sold in a 8 oz bottle. The compressor holds 7.1 if I remember correctly. The tag on the compressor should state the amount in cc's. The fill plug is in the side of the compressor. Just remove the plug and use a small clean funnel to pour the oil in. I added the full 8oz to mine. I spilled maybe 0.2 to 0.5 oz of the oil with the air coming out. But I've been good to go.Double check the lines to see there is no black death in the lines if so then the rest of the system has to be flushed. The flushing solvent is rather expensive.

Like over at the RV forum Gary usually suggest using Rid-X for a treatment for solid waste problems but most people like Dripley use common sense and can keep there tanks fairly clean without buying a bunch of chemicals for the tank. I've personally never used chemicals even while full timing in my older 1976 Dodge Jamboree. Once again just used common sense and rinse the tank with fresh water and started over again. I will admit on warm days the tank can smell rather foul so if your smart after finishing the paperwork then close the lid before flushing I know it hard to tell but at least the smell won't knock you out while flushing.

Ah... Someone sees my logic. This why I run 235/85 R16's for towing. I can get more torque and power to the ground and less heat on the transmission. So the bigger the tires the more stress is placed on the transmission so more heat is generated. 80-90% of my driving is done with these better MPG numbers here. Also for the same reason I've got a set of 265/75 R16 Cooper STT's hidden in the shop for offroad and firewood gathering these give me the traction for slick muddy roads. Only about 10 percent of my road time on these being they cost me roughly 2-3 MPG more to roll them. Just ditching those 285's will gain you everything you looking for. Just remember I'm still running STOCK 3" exhaust, STOCK HX35W turbo, with Edge Comp (5x3) and +50 Injectors which has me really close to the 400 HP mark. No EGT problems here and more than enough power to break the tires loose in 2nd or 3rd gear even hitched up. Your biggest loss is in the tires nothing more. Like my last run less than a week ago. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7737-Back-to-stock-injectors-for-a-short-time?p=75277#post75277

Where are these located? The compressor is on the rear of the engine and I would have a better view of the compressor from inside the cab. When I get time I'll grab a few pictures of the compressor.

Ok. So if your going to be fulltiming in the RV leave the black tank closed till its absolutely full then dump it. If you got a rinse coupling or a wash wand then rinse the tank out well or back fill the tank and dump it again. Another great web site for RV information is http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php which I'm also a staff member off...