Mopar1973Man

PASSING Grade! :thumbup2:Also come to my attention that cheap DVM's tend to report this 30 volt level. Where a high quality Fluke or similar with report proper voltage.

I need to add that picture to the BHAF article...

Protect the 47RE... Even look at the tow weight limits... The 5 or 6 speed manual were allowed much more weight.

I don't see any reason there would be a difference. All the PCM controls is the cruise control, transmission and alternator. So why would you change the PCM?

Bit of simple math. 12 VDC x 250 Amps DC = 3,000w = 120 VAC x 25 Amp AC 12 VDC x 120 Amps DC = 1,440w (Stock alternator) You would need at least 3 alternators to power the AC unit on the RV. Not happening. There is a reason I didn't use 14 Volt for the calculation too. The reason being to show 12 / 120 relationship. So now you know to take any household appliance and add a zero to the Amps and you got your 12 VDC amp draw... Remember my house is ran on batteries... So you left with a portable generator. I've got 2 for the RV. I'll admit the small 2,500w I got is extremely quiet and capable of recharging the batteries and running the fridge but it will not start the A/C nor run the water heater. Just doesn't have the strength to hold the load with it tiny engine. But now I've got a construction grade 4kw generator that powers everything all at once on the RV without blinking an eye. But the sad part is it takes 2 people to pick that beast up and it loud.

Hmmm... It might just be time to consider a oil temp gauge and two sensors. :think:1 Rear Diff1 TransWith a bit a switch magic have all in one gauge.

Come to Idaho... we got those critters wondering around Hell's Canyon... But rare to see one. I'll admit that is a killer picture...

No. Like the video shown a few post back the outlet of the turbo is going to be 300-400*F before the intercooler regardless of the input temperature. So the intercooler is more important than worry about a cold air intake. Like ISX said back at... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6736-BHAF?p=69498#post69498 No. You can add a piece of 4" exhaust pipe in the neck to stiffen the plastic up more. But in all the miles of using a BHAF still no issues with it popping off.

Hua? Disconnect all the power steering lines from the power steering pump. Disconnect the oil line ans the vacuum line. Pull any brackets holding the power steering pump. Pull 2 bolts on the gear case. Remove and rebuild. Re-assemble in reverse order.

With 30K miles on the AirDog filters I'm now down roughly 1.5 to 2 PSI from my 19 @ idle to 17 @ WOT. It's hard to tell exactly because of the cold fuel is lower in pressure anyways.

Here are my 2 most up to date videos...

Not to bad really. Either use a pickle fork or a BFH to get the tapper shaft released. No, I don't hit the nut or threads but the knuckle where the ball stud passes through. After changing them I usually rig up a pair of 4 foot 2x4 to the tires and measure the front and rear toe to get it at least close then take it to a shop and have it aligned. It might be just smarter to skip all this and have the shop install and align it in one shot.

Shoot that's a clean truck. Time to get that beast out and work with it. :wink:Welcome to the family.

I would be out of job. http://www.linkedin.com/in/mopar1973man

Welcome to the family...

Most people tow way too fast too... Just because it can doesn't mean its going to hold up.

Put a choke cable on it like old 2 1/2 ton military trucks. Pull the knob out to cut fuel.

I guess I could wash my truck It cover in a ton of mud and salt right now.

I've already had enough side show work. [*]Blew up my turbo So the most I would be doing is typical monthly inspections and maintenance of the truck. One of my biggest problems right now is getting the salt washed off the truck soon. I might do that tomorrow if the weather is descent.

I've seen it on a VE pump engine where the throttle cable was stretched enough that the throttle only traveled about 70-80% and wasn't giving a good WOT experience. I shimmed the cable with a ziptie... Owner is happy now...

I tend to agree with ISX you need to check the fuel pressure. I know on the P7100 its not a damage problem but a performance issue. You might have good filters and overflow valve but maybe just maybe the pump isn't strong anymore? All this would be seen on a fuel pressure gauge. You could install a 0-60 boost gauge as a fuel pressure and be able to check you pressure over speed.

It reminds me of my teenage years with Mopar muscle cars. Now we are doing all over again with diesel trucks. What's even more strange is my first car was a 1973 Dodge Charger (hence my nickname). But the 1973 Dodge Charger was the first year of smog control on the muscle cars. But had all the mild bonuses of electronic ignition and a few other nice mods compared to earlier models. Just like 2002 was the last of the first series smog controlled Cummins diesels with electronic controls. So when you look at it that way I got the best of both vehicles for the time. Now to make the Cummins last another 10 years and hope for a new technology to replace the common rail fuel system.

Here Here!

Mileage is stored in the cluster.

Wow! That's sad. :nono:I usually bend over backwards to call back the Caller ID number and make sure I'm finished with people. But to just hang up on someone that just really poor manners.