Mopar1973Man

On my truck I got to drop the drive-shaft because the carrier bearing bracket just barely covers the front tank band. So the carrier bearing is dropped but I found a secret too. If drop the shaft and tie it to the passenger side with a bungee or similar you can gain a bunch of room and sit up under the truck and move pretty good. As for the tank in that picture its completely empty.

The only reason is the synthetic doesn't have PPD (pour point depressant) so it won't do any thing for winter gelling... Then the only other thing is price if your willing to run it go for it... It does work and it does lube... Just short the PPD and the price is higher.

There is a rather good thread over at Comp D web site where a guy went through and cut injector nozzles in half and shown the differences in different nozzles and spray patterns. Personally I heard the same thing 40-75 HP is the best range of MPG. But there is the rare time where people have managed 100 and bigger injectors and still manged good MPG's numbers.But I would say the MPG numbers or based how good the spray pattern is and how fast you can convert fuel to vapor to get it to ignite fast and completely. I just had phone call from gent that done serious changes to his engine and with 150 HP injectors it now so smoky that it actually smoking black at idle. So its possible to get to wild and go the wrong way too. So be careful and do your bench testing before just leaping out for big injectors.

I use a 3.5 ton floor jack which happens to be a speedy lift jack which the first pump the arm is already touching the axle. Then from there just a about 6-9 more pumps I'm off the floor. I'll jack stand the front axle use the jack on the rear axle and I can do 4 wheel tire rotation.

Thing is discharging a battery below 11.0 or so really takes a huge chunk of life out of it. since I got a weird habit of keeping my key on a belt clip and I feel naked without the keys rattling on my hip so being locked out of my truck or house is not common for me. Same goes leaving my key on in the ignition. What's odd though is that I spent all last fire season doing road guard duty at night with the ACC mode on and listening to the radio for over 12 hours through the night. No issues here. But I've never really measured the load on the ON position.

As I said I give up... Closed.

More than likely there is a problem with the Quadzilla XZT boost fooler being the code is present with the XZT hooked up but the light goes out after unhooking it. P1698 is a CCD network error.

Yeah... Taz you might want to fix your link...

I don't have to say too much...* Fire Fighter* Search & Rescue* Web Site Management* Diesel and Automotive Mechanic

Idaho is one long rolling up and down grades. Even the full trip from home to Boise is all downhill. Then its all up hill going home. This is in a manner of speaking looking at elevation changes over the full length of the trip which my GPS can measure for. I can get a profile of the elevation changes as a cross section. I was messing with a bit of math like ISX love to do. Here is a spread sheet of numbers. Some of it speculation and some of its actual measurement. Now 45, 50, 70 and 75 MPH are speculated MPG numbers. Everything else is a result of math and calculation. The 2 drag figures below are truck alone and the truck and RV. So even with my truck I got to over come 67.4 HP worth of wind drag at 75 MPH... I know my truck stands nearly 7 foot tall compared to 2WD truck which are nearly a foot shorter. the sq/ft of frontal area make a huge change on wind drag figures. So at 55 MPH I only losing 26 HP to wind drag. Formula is from here.. http://gtechprosupport.com/support/AeroDragCalc.htm

Pictures?

Geez. I don't know what to say. I've never seen one like that before where the paint is nearly all gone. But yes its just a few bolts and pull the cover off. You can re-use the gasket again. But it would be best to just pull it off and paint it properly.

duh... :doh:I'm not sure of the person now. At least the one I talked about this issue he did not have a fuel pressure gauge at the time.

I'm still curious how it turns out and what you have to do to make it work.

There is different DOT grades. http://www.tccoa.com/brake-fluid/ DOT3 and DOT4 are the common stuff. I typically use DOT3 brake fluid from WalMart with zero problems. Just every 100K miles I end up doing a caliper rebuild service. Basically taking them completely apart cleaning and reassembling. Nothing more than that.

As for the VP44 pump and cold weather I would expect the hydraulic pressure would get extreme. This why there suggest heating the oil before using to bring down the viscosity to a normal level. But then on the other hand the heated oil will most likely over heat the VP44 electronic and cause a failure. So the VP44 trucks are not suited very well for veggie oil usage typically. There are few that managed to do it but nothing ever listed on pump lifespan though.

Neither did I for the first go around. But the second go friend offered to help so he dove in. Either method you choose to use you'll get the job done. But I highly suggest you be smart and make sure you get every thing done right the first time so you not back a second time.

I personally couldn't do it because the amount of firewood hauled and thrown in the bed of the truck would create a serious issue. I would most likely start ripping the bed or bow it down more at the hole. Dropping the tank. I've done mine twice but that been some time ago it not like you got to drop it even every year. Some do the lift the bed method and some do the drop the tank method. But as long as the work is done correctly there should not be any reason to do it multple times.

Rule of thumb.Watch your pyrometer. When it reaches 1,200*F you want to slow down and gear down 1 gear. Then kick the RPM's back pu to 2K RPM's and watch again. If the pyrometer reaches 1,200*F slow down and gear down again. I've got a 7% grade I got to do in 3rd because of the tight corners I all I can't build my speed back up without pushing the pyrometer well over 1,200*F to get to the next gear. Then slow down at the next corner... So in my case just go slow.Typically I go from 5th to 4th and climb most grades at 50-53 MPH at 1,000-1,100*F and no issues at all. I use 1,200*F as my breaking line to trigger my down shifting. Bunch of people will admit you can pull all day at 1,200*F but I tend to try and allow for room for erro just in case the pyrometer gauge is wrong.

2 Cycle oil is safe up to the 2007. It just I got no data for the EGR and DPF trucks beyond 2007...

Ah... I think you are the German from California right? :think:If so the what I'm thinking is the lift pump is either wore out or the pickup screen in the tank is plugged up. He doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge either.

Wild temperature swings would most likely be a bad thermostat too. But the fan noise is like Wild & Free posted. Because you got to remember in the frozen north if you don't have a winter front that minus air temp is blowing across the radiator and doesn't phase it for temp I still can hold 190-193*F of temp. So the fan won't create the wild up down.

Tank drop done twice here too. First time I did it and the second time my buddy did it while I drank beer.

Typically there is a lost of power once you start seeing the white smoke. This is a sign of retarded timing and typically there is a P0216 code right behind it coming soon. I had the same thing with my truck at 48K miles and took it back t othe dealer and they installed a lift pump. The dealer wanted to install a VP44 but since there was no signs of issues they wouldn't. So 2K miles later the smoke got worse and POP the P0216 code came. So a new injection pump was installed.

Worse yet when the fuel gauge shows 1/2 tank and your running out.