Mopar1973Man

If the PCM is damaged I would test the alternator for AC noise just to be sure your not going to cook the new PCM or other electronics.

Cycling on and off is bad. :duh:Even in Sanden manual for the compressor is states it should run solid typically but only cycle up to 1-2 times a minute tops. Constant cycling of the compressor is hard on the clutch and will do damage to it.

I've always been closer to correct with the ScanGauge II for MPG numbers because my odometer is off by 0.5 MPH so in a tank of fuel its closer to being about 20-30 miles off. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7620-Odometer-Accuracy So I still do hand math logging of fuel but I use the ScanGauge II more so for day to day tracking of performance than tank to tank. Why? Because I never end up doing just highway miles empty. I'm always hauling something, trailers, firewood, climbing mountain roads, etc. So tank to tank looks much worse than looking day to day. Because one day running empty I can touch 22-23 MPG easy and the next day haul heavy and barely get 12-13 MPG. But still in all the ScanGauge is a valuable tool for learning how to get the most from the truck MPG wise.

It all goes to the same place here on the property so I continue to use the same old household toilet paper. All the RV is temporarily storing my waste in a tank so later its dumped either at a RV dump station or back at home in the clean out here in the front yard.

Typically you'll see small change for colder weather but warmer weather you might not see much change at all.

02 MAP sensors are discontinued.01 MAP sensors will work just fine on the 02 as long as you have the adapter harness with it. Strange but true the MAP sensors through the 98.5 to 02 changed a few time and also changed pin assignments too so make sure to get the proper connector and not hack into it.

Been down that road not long ago. It takes a huge amount of force to move those things and get them out.

I guess the Fuel Boss is going to start gaining popularity here quickly. I'm glad to hear it working out good for you. I'm just kind of concerned about the heavy drops in pressure I hear from time to time. Is the pressure pretty stable across the span from idle to WOT?

The only thing my OEM stock fuel basket does is hold the fuel tank sender. I've replaced mine once already and not hard at all. But like JAG's post that why I never got into the DrawStraw V series because I knew if I had to mess with that basket it would fall apart later in life. So DrawStraw I was installed and zero issues to date.

Glad to hear you upgrade was worth it. I would suggest grabbing a module at this point and tossing it into the mix and then you'll gain the timing for the MPG's and the control over your fuel. As for the limited membership it will be gone in no time...

Water hammer is a big issue for either mechanical or electric fuel pressure gauges. As long as the gauge or sender is hooked up after the last filter and back away from the VP44 it should last a long time. Big the Bosch VP44 injection pump is the source of the water hammer pulses.

Here is the 4 things that can kill a VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements If you deal with these 4 things you'll get plenty of life from your VP44. I'm heading for 200K miles and plan on many more miles...

I'm going to gamble a guess that there is a a bad ground wire for that circuit somewhere under the dash. As other circuits are used typically weird things like this occur where circuits either come to life or die from bad grounds.

Something is shorted out for sure. The bad part is that all the bulbs are a dead short to a ohm meter so ohm testing is out unless you can unplug all bulbs which I think would be a PITA to do. I would assume starting with a visual inspection of all wiring and see if anything is rubbed through or damaged. Maybe a connector melted a bit?

Fuse, Relay, clockspring, etc... Might even check and see if the horn actually functions hooked directly to the battery. I've seen horns fail this way too.

Sorry for the lag in response. Sneezes about 120 PSI. Just a quick sneeze and about 40-60 seconds later its sneezing again. Pressure stays up the whole time. Any time the engine is running its constantly sneezing.

All too funny...

Then if its still cutting out then I would highly consider changing the low pressure switch. It can be done without losing any freon being its screws on a schrader valve on the accumulator can.

Yes it will constantly keep breaking the circuit. Any pressure below about 30 PSI will cause the system to freeze up hence why the pressure tables for the A/C system. Also I typically charge to a solid 40 PSI on most vehicles.

Yeah I know but his case is rather weird. I've driven the truck in snow and its very very spooky to drive. The only way to gain control is change fuel pins. Fuel comes on way to quick also he's extremely light for a 1st gen at about 6,200# empty weight.

Correction.

I'm going to see if I can find a sign a friend showed me on Facebook. It was a standard 65 MPH speed limit sign but then below it said... "Ford's just do the best you can to keep up." :lmao2:But I can't find it now...

I got a buddy with a 1st gen that wishes he could upgrade to a VP44 truck for that exact reason because he's tired of constantly fighting to control the fueling power between summer time when he wants more and in the winter time when he wants less power. He's gone as far as milling different filling pins for summer and winter usage but still you have to pull over, get the toolbox out, and change pins. Mechancial pump are nice because they last forever but not controllable unless you breakout a toolbox.

I'm using a Edge Products boost elbow and can bury the boost gauge at the 35 PSI pin in just about any gear. So for the OP problem he need a boost elbow. I personally like the Edge Products elbow because there is no need for adjustment because it stop typically at 32-35 PSI.

Well I'll have to admit the +50HP injectors pull strong hauling the RV around and the EGT's are much cooler than the RV275's. I was capable of taking on most of Midvale, ID grade in 5th gear hauling along at 55-60 MPH just toward the last little bit of the summit I had to back down to 4th gear but very controllable for EGT's. I had more issues with the blowing winds and the trailer than with truck.