Mopar1973Man

Here is the wiring for the wait to start light...

Monitor & Set Conditions Fuel injection pump operation is monitored with ignition on. DTC will set when engine speed is greater than 300 RPM, fuel command 5 mm3/str and timing command within a certain window. Possible Causes [*] Other DTCs [*] Fuel Injection Pump Gear Alignment [*] Fuel Filter Restriction [*] Transfer Pump Inlet Restriction [*] Fuel Injection Pump Sine the VP44 timing it set hydraulically that means if the fuel pressure isn't strong enough then the fuel pressure can move the timing cam inside the pump. So basically when the ECM commands for timing advancement and the VP44 doesn't respond in time then P0216 is set.

Thankfully I live in Idaho...

You might actually do some video so I can see GPH, MPH, and MPG numbers... As for my 65 MPH speed I would see roughly 3.61 GPH or roughly 18 MPG... Then my 55 MPH is roughly 2.5 GPH at roughly 22 MPG... So I would say you slightly off somewhere...

Heck the funny thing is about open carry in Idaho I've now been in 2 auto parts stores and managed to get a nice discount on my parts for my truck. As for animal life not much problem with the animals typically. They mind there business I mind mine. It only when that decide that I'm a meal is when the 9mm is coming out. As for not carrying a weapon its seem rather foolish to leave them all at home under lock and key or back in the truck. What are you going to do tell the bear "Hey wait a minute for me to go get my gun then will continue." Same thing applies to a attacker... You going to tell them the same thing? Since 2nd amendment allows us to Bear Arms and Idaho is a Open Carry state why not?What really surprising is so far I've never had any negative comments about it. I've had lots of people ask me what I carry and why. I've also recruited several people for the Idaho Open Carry cause. I've even had other officers and law enforcement comment about my open carry and totally support it! Most people don't know that open carry is legal in the state of Idaho and has less laws on open carry than concealed which requires a permit and classes.

I carry a 9mm Star...:gun:I've never seen a wolf around here yet. But also seen the big paw prints in the mud. I've heard of other local stories of pets and farm animals being attacked... But I've never seen a wolf yet. Now I've seen bears and cougars in the yard... A pissed off bear can be a big problem too...

Never fear... I've got guys in Twin Falls, ID that would of helped out. Glad it was a easy fix...

Injectors is the only way for fuel to get in the oil. Crossover tubes if they leak it will leak back into the return rail ad back to the fuel tank.Compression test is the only way to judge the cylinder health on a one by one. Blow by test is a summary test that doesn't always detect blowby issues...

Glad to see you back. They actually started a thread wondering bout you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7453-Driply-Where-are-You So I told them I'd give you a call and check up on you and BLAM! Here you come back. Sounds like your healing up good with your foot. But sounds like you got some family issues. I'll say few prayers for you hopefully the Good Lord above will give you the insight and wisdom to over come your issues.

I found out a way to test the sensor. Pull the sensor out of the block and hook it back up and place the sensor back into a cup of heated water. Now measure the heated water with meat thermometer and see what the ECM reports with a ScanGauge II if the numbers match then is fine... If not then the sensor is failing... Something I learned with Pepsi71ocean...

Well I don't know what to say... That is the only reason I see calipers bind up and freeze. It typically has to to do with heat generated during braking. Once the pistons get hot they collect harden brake fluid and grow in diameter. There is nothing else I know of that causes that. After about 100k miles I get the same thing where the piston bind up and have to polish the pistons to fit again. I typically use 600 grit sandpaper and fine tune the pistons to fit. Yes I've seen my own to the point that 120 PSI (air) would not push them out. When the one jammed piston came out it was with such force it busted the top where it hit the caliper. Caliper are basic hydraulics principal. There is only the piston and 1 seal. So something is creating excessive heat and causing the brake fluid to cake up on the piston to the point of jamming... I'm exactly like you... I live in the country, drive slower, but do use a exhaust brake much more. But I still get the same problem but typically around 100K miles.

Trick post I got hung up on...

Sorry no retarder or exhaust brakes... :duh:But all the autos are like this... But now the manual trans you can typically set a low gear range and occasional tap the brakes and control long down hills...

Calipers are not to blame. I noticed the 285's tires in your signature. Then I got to ask about you normal driving speed? What is happening is if your a high speed driver that possibly tailgates and constantly grabbing the brakes in city traffic. What happens is since you got the 285 on the tires they place more leverage force against the the rotors so it takes more clamping force of the caliper to slow down like a 265's tire would so there is more heat generated in the calipers. So after awhile the piston start to grow in size from the cooked brake fluid. This is another reason why brake fluid change should be done every 30K miles and the calipers opened up and inspected. I normally don't see the caliper piston problem till about 100k miles. I've use my exhaust brake for most of my stopping...

Might be true but I'm having poor experience with the fire trucks her that are auto's they have zero hold back ability and tend to over heat the brakes in a short order coming down some of our steep mountain roads. Please say its not so...

Dumb question? Is there a way to upgrade to the 6.7L lines as a possible upgrade?

Wow... Not good to hear about another product losing quality. But There is all kinds of optinos for a power boost but since your a Auto I highly suggest you upgrade the trans before adding serious power to the truck. So a Edge EZ would be a safe mild boost.

W&F your just so funny...:lmao:But seriously the blower motor is just easy to pull out and clean.

W&F I sure hope your wrong... I'm and manual kind of guy and really don't like the auto's very much...

Well tomorrow I'll be digging into the truck and doing some maintenance and repairs of miscellaneous things like adding my MPG fooler as a permanent switch, changing brake fluid, and changing fuel filters. It's been over 30K miles...

I tend to agree with the guys here... I would check over the vacuum lines and the CAD vacuum motor first before investing in a expensive cable kit.

I'm like Will...

Remember the fueling station pump are never absolute accurate. They can be off a small amount in 5 gallons. I watch the testing done at my local station and how its done. So if you calibrate once that's fine when you got a chance to check that's fine too. I typically set mine 0.1 highier making the MPG's just a touch lower. This makes me also work hard to get high numbers but typically I'm right close to the mark +/- 0.2 Gallons.

Any true offroad user should not use any sump. All it would take is one stump, log, or rock to swipe the sump off the bottom of the tank and leave you stuck. Drawstraw is legal to use on the streets where it might be a thin legal line for a sump on the streets.

Not a back but a leg problem... But I did nominate him on the first TOTM but he never responded. Trying to call him. But just a voice mail box. I left a quick message to call me back and give a update...