Mopar1973Man

ISX I think has the range of degrees that a VP44 can move.As for the VP44 in stock form it can use the full range of advancement. It just the electronics give more ability to control it and get it advanced quicker.As for monitoring the timing position I would have to say that a DRBIII might be able to such thing. But most normal people don't have about $6,000 to toss out on a tool like that...:spend:I imagine all the Cummins tool should be able to see it too. Once again too spendy for normal people.

Depends on your setup and design you want to take. I kept my stock filter can and still use it today. As for the stock lift pump I can normally change those from the top in about about 15 minutes. So just remove all the stock plumbing from the lift pump and the 3 nuts on top and it will drop on the ground. Then just install your Airdog. Personally I would give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance and see about converting over to old school pushloc's so you don't have a air leak problems. Also this will allow you to add in the fitting to continue using the stock filter can as a secondary catch all filter, keep your fuel heater, etc.

Neither Wallet Calc'ed. When it takes $50 dollars of fuel to get to Lewiston, ID and another $50 bucks to get home on a 260 mile round trip just to pop test the injectors I'm sure the displayed lower number on the ScanGauge II was close to right. Not absolute but close. It showed that trip maxed out at 17.2 MPG. Lets not discuss that expensive trip. Todays trip cost only cost $42 bucks to fill in Ontario, OR. I was kind of filled before I left but not exactly tip top. So even in my log book I listed it as a no-fill. But this last fuel stop was a fill so I can calibrate the ScanGauge in a few days when I fill again.

Just because these are new doesn't mean they are working correctly. Might read this post as another member found out just because you got a NEW alternator doesn't mean it working correctly. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884

Actually about 3-5 MPG loss. Yes. It's suggested to check calibration of the ScanGauge anytime there is a fuel system change. I've got to run this tank out and fill again to verify my calibration. But historically I've never been higher than 22.5% offset and never any lower than 9.2% offset. My current offset is 15.5% for the old RV275's so I'm not going o be very far off. +50 HP. This is the high point. 260 miles round trip plus city driving. After bucking a head wind home I dropped down to 23.5 MPG. Thunderstorms brewing as we traveled home. No IAT fooler was used. I had IAT temps ranging from 80*F-140*F the best MPG's came on after about 110*F then the numbers jumped good. As the wind and air cooled again then they slumped down slightly not much. But stayed above 100*F all the way home for IAT temps. From Ontario, OR to home. (120 miles)

Auto's typically only get 3rd and 4th gears for Exhaust brake function. Lets say my exhaust brake has the potential of actually locking up the rear tires in into a hopping skid. So I would have to agree with him...

Here is the article about the (KDP) Killer Dowel Pin http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/106-kdp-repairtiming-cover-leaks Here is the damage it does.

Yup... We still got steel cylinders for SCBA's.

:think:There is only a few things that leak oil on these trucks. The tappet cover (or cam cover), vacuum pump seals, crank seals (front and rear). Double check the gear case (possible KDP?)Now as for the tappet cover gasket make sure its installed the right way. I just seen it here locally where a 94 Dodge owner installed it upside down and had it leak too. So be aware of the thicker side goes towards the engine. No RTV required. There is nothing really on these truck that require sealants or silicone.

Ummm... I need you to do some more testing. * Load test the batteries (removed from the truck)* Load test the alternator (removed from the truck)There is no way to drop to 6V and keep the truck running. The minimum voltage required is 8 volts and then the truck will die. So I need you to verify with a DVM or analog volt meter that the battery voltage is actually falling off. You might check ground and positive feed lines into and out of the PDC (power distribution center) verify the power is actually reaching the ECM and PCM as 12 volts. Even with my alternator unhooked I still hold ~12 volts without a alternator.

I know... You've seen the box. He lists them as a 40-60 HP injector. Typically come out at about 50HP. They are all flow matched and pop tested before being boxed. I asked about the nozzle size and he said he'd have to get back to me on that later on. (Busy at the time). But I'm sure he be will to tell ya. Naw. It seem to run cooler in the EGT's but hard to tell from just the short trip. I'll see tomorrow what happens.

I can't release the price I paid for them since there is was a bit more to the deal. But I'm sure Eric would be more than happy to set you up and just tell him Mopar1973Man sent you along. I had a Search & rescue meeting tonight and cruise into Riggins, ID. I got to admit the ScanGauge is showing better numbers than the stock injectors even better than the 275's I had that were wore out. But I'll report more tomorrow night. I got to make a haul down to Ontario, OR.

UPS shows up at little after 12 noon. I start... By 2pm I fired up the truck. No priming required. This thing is stupid fast now. But my previous 5x3 Comp setting is still rather clean just a bit of smoke. Running really smooth at idle, EGT's are much lower that the previous RV275's. Bit of launch lag but OMG! When she lights you better hold on. Just tinkering around on a few straight stretches I was hitting 85 MPH in no time. I have to give Eric over at Vulcan Performance a big Thank You for the killer deal and the awesome product.

Let's say that your A/C compressor adds more load than the fan does. Being the A/C compressor is constantly running compared to the fan that only locks up at high temperature and free spools the rest of the time. As long as the coolant temp is below 205*F the fan is free spinning for the most part.

Just looking at my old 275RV's +40HP they are a 7 hole. The new ones are suppose to be 7 hole as well but a +50HP. When there was a huge price difference between 50HP and 40HP of course I went with the 50HP being cheaper also Eric assured me he was going to pop test and flow match the +50HP for me where the RV's just get pulled off the shelf and shipped. :whistle:So I ended up with a bit more quantity of fuel, but get personal quality, and a super good price. How could you go wrong... :cool:Yes... Brown truck should be here today.

I rarely run mine high through the RPM's. don't get me wrong I play with the truck to and wrap it up tight now and then in the high 2K's but typical driving I rarely over 2K ever. Using the above videos... Economy minded... http://youtu.be/1EbH3g1_-eI When I'm playing... http://youtu.be/3JWnyRrHPPc Brakes I never touch the brake pedal till my road speed is below 25 MPH. It's all exhaust brake and down shifting.

Snow? What snow? Most of our snow is all gone. We only got snow above 6,000 feet now. We're all wondering if we are going to get a typical high water or not. I'm already to cut firewood.

I use standard old green or yellow coolant from NAPA or WalMart. Nothing special is needed just make sure to keep the coolant change at 30K miles or 36 months. If you don't you'll be changing head gaskets and heater cores. Typically you just unscrew the lid and the filter comes out in the lid. Unsnap and snap in a new one. If you want you can refill the filter housing with can fuel so not to make a mess on the shop floor or driveway. I've got a wiring diagram on the site in the download area. I'll flip your access on for ya in the morning I'm really tired tonight. As for the transfer case seal. I've never done one yet. So I can't help you on that one.

I've got a 2x4 box frame at the tail of my bed for common goods to keep them from sliding around the bed of the truck. I'll have to grab a picture tomorrow and post it up.

I was washing my engine yesterday and fired up the engine ans was able to stop the fan with water sprayed on the fan. I hardly doubt mine is loading the engine at all. I've also got a video of me stopping the fan with a old radiator hose too...

I return... I'm safe and sound.As for the fire you'll never believe the cause of the fire. It was cause from a local that was double towing his RV and boat down to Brownlee Res. Barely left town and jumped the boat trailer off the ball and drug the boat trailer down the highway for over 5 miles throwing sparks all over. Nevertheless we chased fire over both sides of the highway protecting homes and and property the best we can. No homes where harmed, lots of grass and brush burned though. We had USFS and Salmon River Rural Fire working the fire and spaced out over the 5 miles of highway working both sides. Today was one of those days I wished I would of taken my radio with me even though I left my fire district. If I would of had my radio I would of been more informed about what was going on. But I got home called Idaho County dispatch and found out some basic information and then grab my gear and radio and hauled for the fire in Mom's 1996 Dodge. Thankfully her truck had fuel where mine was near empty. Being I'm a station captain of Station #1 I've got new guy that I got caught up with and was teaching him the ropes of the truck in the field. So we fought fire, moped up, went to town and loaded with fuel, then loaded with nice clean city water for the truck. I sent him home with Engine 1 to clean the truck and put it back in the station. I stayed behind to monitor the fire up to 7:30pm and then managed to still hit my fire meeting in Riggins, ID learning about filling SCBA tanks and maintenance of them. I'm tired...

Just remember if the pump came in with a P1688, P1689, P0251, P0252, P0253 or P0254 more than likely got replaced. Like I said it's hard to run 3 hours of bench time with a already dead or dying PSG. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/169-p0251-vp44-pump-fuel-valve-feedback-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/170-p0252-fuel-valve-signal-missing http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/171-p0253-fuel-injection-pump-fuel-valve-open-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/179-p0254-vp44-fuel-valve-current-too-high http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/227-p1688-internal-fuel-injection-pump-failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44

VP44 electronics are replaced on most all pumps. It next to impossible to run 3 hours of bench time and manage to flash a dead or dying PSG module. So that hype of getting bad electronics isn't always true. Here is the VP44 test bench process. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0Q8qQ2UKRI Here is the diagnostics on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44

Two very nice looking truck in the picture. Oh... You need to more pictures posted. I see what looks like a backhoe behind the truck. Then the nose of the RV trailer. Oh well need so pictures of you hauling stuff. :wink:Congrads on the Dodge though!

I do my caliper tuning myself. I simply remove the pistons and using 600 grit sandpaper I tune the piston to fit the bore without the seals in place. The piston should drop to the bottom of the bore without being push in. Remember this is without seals in place.