Mopar1973Man

I got 135,000 miles (217,000 km's) out of my first BHAF. There wasn't any restriction shown by the filter finder but the filter media inside was starting to darken so not wanting to risk the engine I replaced at that point.

Oh Man sorry to hear about the damage. Glad to hear your OK too geez your damn lucky. :pray:Typically with me I will not leave my truck idling with only the parking brake holding the truck while hitched up to a trailer. I will always put the transmission in 1st gear, set the parking brake and shut down the engine before leaving the cab.So something else to toss in your shopping list is look at the parking brake cables as well. I've had one cable completely rust up solid and only get one side to hold so the truck tends to creep because one side isn't enough.

Pull the cord off and ohm out the cord from end to end and see if you got shorts to ground or neutral.Then ohm the heater itself without the cord so you should see resistance. Someone help me out here its like 20Ω to 30Ω roughly guessin'

But I got you covered with a full list of codes here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes Personally I like the UltraGauge and ScanGauge II because both have live data displays where a cheap OBDII just does error codes and reset the CEL light. For the extra $60 bucks you can add another tool to the pile.

I would take it to a Dodge Dealer drop a DRBIII tool on it and find out whats up. If its just a software issue have them flash both ECM and PCM again to get everything back in order.

Big Line Kit would help it out a bunch. The stock fuel lines and banjo bolts are restrictive.

There is another way. I've been told if you can get your fingers on a 12V tappet cover you could change covers and then never worry again.

Grab a OBDII code reader and pull the codes.Then hook up a fuel pressure gauge and test for fuel pressure.Oh Yeah... Welcome to the family.

Thanks! Here is the video from the page... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Fq2rdmNwRw

I saw over on another diesel site and figure I would share it. What info you want?

My design is for the offroad application where I climb steep grades and come back down them. So the pipe over the back is not required but sure works in keeping the oil in the crankcase when descending steep grades or mountain slopes like I do with getting firewood.

I can tell you my Jacobs exhaust brake has a seriously heavy return spring so heavy its nearly impossible to move the butterfly close by hand. Then the butterfly has a tuned port hole in it to prevent excessive back pressure build up at high RPM's.

I list what I've got for diagnostics but the rest of the code are not common Cummins / Dodge codes at all. So as for the ones with ??? I'm not sure what to tell you maybe your ECM is failing...

I just helped a neighbor to go through his truck and its a 1994 Dodge and its never been tabbed but after 400K miles it still in place barely walked out at all. Shocker...

When you try to repost it should have a button to restore saved post.

I don't think the size will bother it but the CPVC plastic itself I'm a bit wondering how it will last with hot engine oil and will it get brittle and break or not?

The only thing is we are going to need a heavy duty upgrade to the front suspension...

I did not hook the fuel pump to the batteries. I hook mine to the PDC where the red heavy gauge comes in. This way there is no corrosion problems with the wiring. So the pressure drop after grid heater is going to be a regulator problem most likely or gauge issues if its a electric sender. The sealing washers are the stock washers used on the banjo bolts I'm talking about. If it was me I would pull the regulator out and inspect it and see if you can spot possibly issues of sicking or such.

No air bag at all... :shrug:So far with everything I've towed I can't find a reason for air bag yet. I rare to even get my truck to sit on the helper springs.

Yes. But you'll have to figure out the mixture ratio that vehicle likes best. Start at 200:1 and work your way towards 128:1 and watch you MPG and exhaust smoke.

Well some of you seen my firewood pictures I'm sure. I'm not sure you want to call that fun. More like work to me... :duh:Like I told MoparMom I'm going to get busy on the RV and pack the axle bearings and get the brakes look at. It time to get ready for another year of hauling the RV around. Yipeee!

(Moving to normal forum no longer in danger)

Word of caution... I don't suggest going over 20 PSi. There is a lot of people reporting going 25-30 PSI without failure. But this is nearly double the stock pressure and is not needed. Once the overflow valve open the return line is limited on how much it can flow being its much smaller than the 1/2" big line so don't get carried away with your upper pressure limit.

I took off for a ATV ride up Hazard Road to play in the snow with my ATV and friend down the road brought his old beat up 3 wheeler and managed to get 4 miles up the road. Dumb part was I took my cameras with me but didn't shot a single thing... :banghead: