Mopar1973Man

So far both vendors I've talked to have been nice enough to admit I need to upgrade. (KT Performance & GOS Performance)So far GOS Performance seem to have the winning price so far for a PhatShaft 62/70Second in line is KT Performance with Diesel Power Source 64/65/12 I could also buy a use HX35W for $250 buck but both vendor suggest against because of my current mods.Still waiting for DAP and Walt at FTE to call back... Any other suggestions?

:banghead:Yeah gang... I destroyed my turbo with a wire hose clamp. During my oil change and boost leak fixing I laid my BHAF on the workbench and inadvertently knocked a wire hose clamp in the BHAF from the peg board above. Installed the filter and took a ride. Boost kept getting lower and EGT rising whistle changed big time. Hua?! Went home to find the first pic and the 2 ears of the clamp in the BHAF. The rest of the ring I'm hoping is in the intercooler. :pray:Engine still runs fine... So I need a turbo... First and foremost.I know that S#!7 happens but man this make me sick...

Little bit of scientific truth. The amount of carbon on this planet is the same amount since the beginning of time. Laws of Physics state that nothing can be created or destroyed. So all our truck do is convert liquid version of hydro-carbons into a gassous state of carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, etc. Even when you burn hydrogen the end result is water. So some where down the line from plants and organic matter carbon is converted back to liquid state. So the whole theory of green house gases is BS. If it was so we would choke to death when Idaho burned 300,000 or more acres of forest and darkens the skies with dark orange smoke to black plumes of torching trees. A single forest fire emits more pollution than LA California in one year!

Been cold here in Idaho as well floating -2*F to -20*F for a couple of weeks now. I'm lucky to be down in the canyon because it much warmer down here in the hole. Like right now its +28*F.

I would get somewhere safe first then do your diagnostics. As long as the truck is running fine and still driving fine I wouldn't worry much. But now if its limp mode and driving slowly then something a bit more serious.But when you get a safe spot pull your codes and report back.

I never got into Harley's after the day the spit gasoline down my leg and cough up a fireball too.

Have you adjusted and tampered with the APPS sensor? Have you tried doing a APPS reset? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/258-how-to-reset-calibrate-apps-sensor Have you changed ATF fluid in the trans? Have you adjusted the bands lately?

Here is the old Goldwing in its better days...Here is my old 1982 Honda V45 SabreThen even older 1982 Yamaha Seca I owned...

I'm we the people that didn't vote were even smarter. Because how do you vote ofr the lesser of two evils? They are both evil so neither Mom or I voted.

I've had several motorcycles everything from Honda CB550 to a 1100 Goldwing.But here is my current 2008 Honda Rancher 420... In tractor mode...

Nice setup. Wow! Very clean!

The only power with BioDiesel is the lower BTU content so your MPG's will be lower and you need more fuel to travel the same distance. Same problem that ethanol have in gassers. Then on the Biodiesel side the gel point is much higher so if you cold country you take a risk of gelling up sooner. When it does gel the bio part of the diesel will separate and sink to the bottom like solid bacon grease in a frying pan. So be careful with Bio till spring.

I've haven't even seen a Assassin Mechanical Fuel yet. I've seen pictures of them but never seen one assembled up close yet. Rather new on the market place and very little information on them.

Just like this... So if the speedometer is functional and working correctly then change out your 2 front sensors and your good.

It might be... :rolleyes:But like I told you lets get some measurements ourselves on a Dodge...

MMO... Bad stuff. Bosch requires <450 HFRR for optimal fuel life today's fuel is at least 520. There is Bosch's test on fuel..

ISX and myself have been playing with manifold temps and weather conditions looking at more angles. Heck when I got off the phone last night we burned better than 2 hours of phone time hashing out different theories. Figure out a web base calculator is wrong that we found.

Simple... If you leave the vehicle parked for any length of time pull the IOD fuse in the cab. The one with the funky fuse clip. This allows you to pull the fuse so all your Ignition Off Draw components are no longer draining down the batteries while being parked. Then if you knowingly start the truck and drive a very short distance be sure to extend your return trip home to give ample time for the batteries to recharge or use a battery charger when you get home. Batteries take hours to recharge not minutes. If you add water to the batteries make sure to charge the batteries well before leaving it sit. Battery electrolyte will separate to some degree and acid sinking to the bottom. Slight over charging of the batteries will stir the electrolyte and distilled water together when the battery starts to boil. This is called equalizing. This should be done with the truck disconnected because your battery voltage will be roughly 15.5 to 15.7 volts. That's how I got 12 years out of these big beasts of batteries that power my house. ($4,300 worth of batteries - [8] 6 volt batteries weighing right at 1,000 pounds.)

Surge problems are typically fuel related. Are you running a stock turbo? I hope not... 35 PSI should be Max for Hx35 and about 30 PSI for a HY35.

Boost foolers... Like My Edge Comp hooks into the MAP sensor and fools the ECM to seeing only 18-19 PSI but the Edge Comp controls the VP44 fuelling through the wire tap. That's how I get my 32-35 PSI of boost without a error code.

David... The P0234 code is because the wastegate on the turbo is rusted shut. The turbo is producing too much boost so the engine defuels to protect itself from damage. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/165-p0234-turbo-boost-limit-exceeded

Correrction... <1200*F can be done all day long without worry. 1200-1300*F - Are you willing to bet your engine that your gauge is accurate? >1400*F is dangerous period.

That's a no no... Eventually the copper will fail on you from flexing and vibration. Best thing I've found is Air Brake line and most over the road trucks use the same thing for gauges too.

These are 14 Most Offensive Video Games Ever... I never knew they existed till stumbling on this web site. Are people actual playing this junk? http://www.gameranx.com/features/id/9633/article/14-most-offensive-video-games-ever/

Using old school informationOlder big block Mopars like my old 383 had a firing order of 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 21 8 4 3 6 5 7 2L R R L R L L RUsually balanced. :wink:I guess Ford and Chevy didn't figure it out quite right with the diesels.