Mopar1973Man

As for the VP44 pump and cold weather I would expect the hydraulic pressure would get extreme. This why there suggest heating the oil before using to bring down the viscosity to a normal level. But then on the other hand the heated oil will most likely over heat the VP44 electronic and cause a failure. So the VP44 trucks are not suited very well for veggie oil usage typically. There are few that managed to do it but nothing ever listed on pump lifespan though.

Neither did I for the first go around. But the second go friend offered to help so he dove in. Either method you choose to use you'll get the job done. But I highly suggest you be smart and make sure you get every thing done right the first time so you not back a second time.

I personally couldn't do it because the amount of firewood hauled and thrown in the bed of the truck would create a serious issue. I would most likely start ripping the bed or bow it down more at the hole. Dropping the tank. I've done mine twice but that been some time ago it not like you got to drop it even every year. Some do the lift the bed method and some do the drop the tank method. But as long as the work is done correctly there should not be any reason to do it multple times.

Rule of thumb.Watch your pyrometer. When it reaches 1,200*F you want to slow down and gear down 1 gear. Then kick the RPM's back pu to 2K RPM's and watch again. If the pyrometer reaches 1,200*F slow down and gear down again. I've got a 7% grade I got to do in 3rd because of the tight corners I all I can't build my speed back up without pushing the pyrometer well over 1,200*F to get to the next gear. Then slow down at the next corner... So in my case just go slow.Typically I go from 5th to 4th and climb most grades at 50-53 MPH at 1,000-1,100*F and no issues at all. I use 1,200*F as my breaking line to trigger my down shifting. Bunch of people will admit you can pull all day at 1,200*F but I tend to try and allow for room for erro just in case the pyrometer gauge is wrong.

2 Cycle oil is safe up to the 2007. It just I got no data for the EGR and DPF trucks beyond 2007...

Ah... I think you are the German from California right? :think:If so the what I'm thinking is the lift pump is either wore out or the pickup screen in the tank is plugged up. He doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge either.

Wild temperature swings would most likely be a bad thermostat too. But the fan noise is like Wild & Free posted. Because you got to remember in the frozen north if you don't have a winter front that minus air temp is blowing across the radiator and doesn't phase it for temp I still can hold 190-193*F of temp. So the fan won't create the wild up down.

Tank drop done twice here too. First time I did it and the second time my buddy did it while I drank beer.

Typically there is a lost of power once you start seeing the white smoke. This is a sign of retarded timing and typically there is a P0216 code right behind it coming soon. I had the same thing with my truck at 48K miles and took it back t othe dealer and they installed a lift pump. The dealer wanted to install a VP44 but since there was no signs of issues they wouldn't. So 2K miles later the smoke got worse and POP the P0216 code came. So a new injection pump was installed.

Worse yet when the fuel gauge shows 1/2 tank and your running out.

I used 1/2 inch foam pipe insulation on my A/C pipe to protect it. Also under that is a piece of rubber hose just in case.

Right on! That is perfect. I'll give it a shot next time I get a chance at getting a bucket of carb dip. Very impressive.

:lmao:I wish I had more knowledge of the parts and such for the non-A/C vs. A/C...

Hmmm... You'll have to check on the wiring, vacuum, and HVAC case fore everything... I've never done a conversion.

Must of been a really old post from way back. I remember a post of mixing all this but after studying the contents of the other products vs. the 2 cycle oil. I might of fell in the trap long ago but I continue studying and try to make thing better every day. Still in all high cetane tend to be lower in BTU's also so why use a product that reduces cetane or increase BTU's then mix another product that does the reverse. That's why I started the research and better the information.

Also make sure you center the sender back up in the tank. I've seen when people try hooking up the factory line they will swing the sender to line up easy and typically stick the sender to the wall of the tank so it sticks on position or hang up when low on fuel.

I tend to agree I typically only see 2-3 PSI tops so either you got a fuel line restriction or a lift pump that can't keep up.

White smoke is a sign of lack of timing or low fuel pressure. So what is the fuel pressure at idle and WOT at highway speeds? Then re-run the error code with a OBDII reader and see what you get.

Still running factory OEM brake system from the master cylinder all the way down to the calipers. The only thing that not OEM is the caliper seals and boots and the pads. I've never replaced a master cylinder ot hydrobooster. Mostly due to the fact I change brake fluid every 30K miles and completely rebulid the calipers every 100K miles. I basically change brake pads every 200K miles roughly. (185K actual)So a rebuild kit of the hydrobooster is much cheaper that the $95 salvage one plus a rebuild kit that you most likely have to put into it as well.

I loved being passed by other vehicles. Because the rare chance I catch one in a fuel station and talk to them typically they are blown away by the MPG numbers I put down with a 7,500# vehicle vs. there little rice rocket. Then after as they make several stops, food, bathroom or for fuel and the owner trying to figure why he's got to pass my slow truck again. Which I didn't need to stop for fuel since I'm not wasting driving fast. I'm still ahead of them... Back to the hare and the turtle race again. Tires and gear are the ultimate way of getting the most MPG's. But some are just hard set on the big heavy tires and 4.10 gears. Your truck and your money... What can I say?

So far I've techinically moved only once. From Mission Hills, CA to New Meadows, ID.But I've livied in RV's as well at different jobs sites and such. Managed a motel from a RV, worked at auto body shop from a RV, even washed dishes at a restruant living in a RV. As for home. There is no place other like it.

Shouldn't mix products. 2 Cycle Oil is a cetane reducer and PS Diesel Kleen is a Cetane booster = Negated out boh products. 2 cycle oil is a lubricity enhancer and PS Diesel Kleen is a solvent base injector cleaner = Negated out both products. So you basely been wasted money on both products. This is one of the reason I highly suggest using one product and never mixing. HFRR test shows bit of what I'm saying...

I did some more measuring and testing for the MPG crowd. Before I start I will say that I just verified my SGII and its right close to being on the money (off by 0.2 gallons). I'll assume that a slight error between the ScanGauge and the fuel pump. Now I my truck conditions are Edge set for 5x3, IAT fooled to 143*F, Engine coolant varied from 188*F to 197*F, winter fronts still on. Actual weather was high of 65*F (actual IAT was ~90-105*F) Now since I was on I-84 down in southern Idaho today I figure I open the beast up and let it fly low for once. So I set the cruise for 75 MPH and reset the current MPG counter and measure for about 20 miles of highway. I was pulling roughly ~13 MPG. Then after shopping in Nampa, ID and got back on the same stretch of highway again and set my cruise this time for 65 MPH then reset the ScanGauge II again and measured about 20 miles of highway again. I turned out ~18 MPG. Then even with all the playing driving fast and slower I still pulled in the yard with a total of 22 MPG. So from this rough measurement I found that roughly for every 10 MPH above 55 MPH I lose roughly 5 MPG. This is calculated numbers here. According to Google Maps its 300 miles round trip what I drove. Time to travel distance 300 miles / 55 MPH = 5.4 Hours 300 miles / 65 MPH = 4.6 Hours (0.8 hours less than 55 MPH) 300 miles / 75 MPH = 4.0 Hours (0.6 hours less than 65 MPH, 1.4 Hours less than 55 MPH) Amount of fuel consumed 300 miles / 21 MPG = 14.2 Gallons (@ 55 MPH - not a true 55 MPH because of testing) 300 miles / 18 MPG = 16.6 Gallons (@ 65 MPH) 300 miles / 13 MPG = 23.0 Gallons (@ 75 MPH) Cost difference @ $4.019 Gallon (which I paied for) 14.2 Gallons x $4.019 = $57.06 16.6 Gallons x $4.019 = $66.71 ($9.65 more than 55 MPH) 23.0 Gallons x $4.019 = $92.43 ($25.72 more that 65 MPH, $35.41 more than 55 MPH) Another tidbit. I get the same MPG's towing my RV at 55 MPH than I do driving empty at 75 MPH. Also the fuel consumption rate at 75 MPH is just about the same as climibng a 5% to 6% grade at 55 MPH. This shows that amount of rolling resistance and wind drag differences between 55 and 75 MPH.

Firefox has a bunch of plugins like Noscript, Click and Clean, etc. They are all helpful but at time can create issues to so check your plugins on Firefox make sure something isn't blocking site. I know there is a few areas that use Java to create effects or do basic options.

What OS are you using?Is Java up to date?Is your Firefox up to date? FireFox 19.0.2 works fine...Any firefox plugins?