Mopar1973Man

That's a moment with the washer.

The weird things the midwest Rednecks do.

I wouldn't go that far... But I will admit that washing them are a pain in the butt and then trying to protect them from rubbing holes in them another pain in the butt.

...and Google Maps reports... http://goo.gl/maps/XNRhn

No they appear dim because the draw power from other sources and tend to illuminate both elements of the bulb giving a dim appearance. Headlight on our trucks are backwards to what you think. Battery (+) -> Fuse (L & R) -> Headlight -> Multifunction Switch -> Headlight Switch -> Ground (-) So the headlight typically have 12 volt power all the time its just the ground is turned off and on.

Ummm... that look like ummm... Something exploded?

MoparMom says, "No hunting from the deck!"

Welcome to come up...

Headlight ground is inside the cab under the the driver side kick panel. But I've got a feeling you blew the head light fuses. Main battery cables are off of both batteries to the engine driver and passenger sides.

Several other factor your fighting too. -snip The overly large injectors are tough to gain MPG's with. Then the 4.10 gear with 315's tires. Lots of leverage load on the axles and requiring a lot of TQ to twist the axle from stop to full roll. For every 4 pounds of rotation mass you shave off you'll require 1 less HP to keep it rolling. Then when you doing your MPG calcs are you using a GPS or the odometer with a percent offset? I found out the reason why the percent offset doesn't work. It because of the tire vs. wheels. Some people put wide wheels on and stretch the tire slightly bead to bead so now the profile is shorter giving you different profile then again you could be on a narrower rim and change it again there is a +/- about 1-2% offset to your offset calculate depending on the wheel size. So the only way to get correct odometer you need a GPS...

Error codes?Possible injector problems?

Here you go time lapse video (1 frame per 1 second) of the same mountain... Morning low here was 30*F and day high was 32*F. Humidity is 94-96% today.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/231-p1693-dtc-detected-in-companion-module http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low Nothing to point to the VP44 quite yet... Good fuel pressure. This is all there is...

Here is a run away Cummins... My thoughts are excessive fuel that is unburnt in the exhaust stream that is being ignited by another exhaust port creating the pop. Other than that the exhaust stream should be technically exhaust gases (spent fuel) so if there popping in the exhaust stream then I would say excessive fuel or incomplete burning of fuel.

Here is what breakfast time is like around here...

Sorry I didn't post the link... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

Personally I don't think any electric gauge is accurate because over time the electric senders start to fail slightly skewing the reading, or electrical issues with grounds or such skewing the readings, etc. This another reason I stayed away from them stuck solely to mechanical gauges. Because a mechanic gauge will continue to work even when the truck fails. Where most electric gauges fail and give you fail security. Like a common issue is fuel pressure sender starts to fail and the pressure start to rise more than actual. Remember this just my personal opinions...

If I'm not mistaken that is the CAD axle vent.

I did separate gauges because then that way not all your eggs are in one basket. Edge Juice when it fails you'll lose the gauges and everything else. But with separate gauges and Edge Comp if a gauge fails just replace the single gauge. If the Edge Comp fails just replace the Edge Comp. For the most part Edge Comp and Edge Juice are the same except that Edge Juice put everything in one module (all your eggs in one basket) and Edge Comp doesn't have any extras.

Glad our little chat on the phone nailed it down for ya...

As for spot on the floor doesn't mean there is blow by exactly. But if you suspect blow by issues I would do a compression test and verify the engine health. Don't bother with a blow by test because its not going to show independent cylinder number but a summary of all. As for your choice of 0w-40 might be too thin. I typically run 15w-40 all the way down to minus number weather.

Well I can can show you with 2 pictures I got from another member over on CumminsForum.com.The ECM circuit board is folder in half inside the case frame. This first picture has all the 50 pin connector that is facing the fender.I the next picture down toward the bottom edge you can see the processor, RAM, PROM, etc. This half is facing the engine.

Slight increase is good but after about 75 HP there isn't much to gain anymore.

... and the Admin has Redneck skills... Here it your link. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=789 This is other can follow the article back over to DTS.com.