Mopar1973Man

Is it possible you got a collapsed brake hose?

Dang the luck...I just lost a ABS sensor on my truck its the front driver sensor for sure the weather jacket is broke open and the inner wire is exposed. So sad but true I need to find a ABS sensor for my rig. Does anyone out there have leads on a cheap ABS sensors or maybe have salvaged a set of them?

Is this 4 wheel drums?

I will admit that Pac-Brake is my choice for you application but there is a few limitations in how low it will stay locked up and give function. From what I found out locally Pac-Brake only works in 3rd and 4th gears of a automatic. So now it would require some valve body mods and such to get 2nd gear to lock up.As for a manual I would gladly do a Jacobs Brake OEM exhaust brake again. When you can use all the way to 1st gear its awesome.

Correct...

Still its a all wheel ABS system. This kickback is because a single front sensor is off most likely slower and the ABS module is wanting to prevent lockup so the pump fights you till it errors out and trips the light. So I would suggest that you replace both front sensors. Because you not complaining of speedometer issues so I'm going to assume its one front sensor.

Wait to start delay is caused by a internal memory errors and having a hard time booting software during key on. So it basically telling you that it ready to fail.

The title of the thread is you are the target... I can see something like this in New York city or Los Angeles but little rural town like my Riggins, ID or ISX's little slice of Missouri... I really doubt some of this stuff. You got scores and scores of military that refuse to shoot US citizens.

All I can tell you is yes you bumper will be lighter than steel. But it will most likely cost more that steel.I'm really curious what you built tho...

I always start with 2 things. 1. Fuel pressure (Idle and WOT at highway speed)2. Error codes

I'd like to see pictures of this. Another thought it since its copper you could have it plated or chromed...

I'd shy away from the electric valves. I rather like to have the choice of controlling the valve. We've got one water tender in the fire dept with one and works really good at holding 30,000 pound water tender on a slope. Yes we still use wheel *****.

Kind of like my hose clamp in the turbo...

Be aware the PacBrake is a bit different than the manual. I've got a local that got one and is not very happen because it only works in the upper gear while locked up. So some trans work mine need to be done to gain the lower gears.

If he sends me a email I will send him a picture of the headlight wiring and why its going to be a pain for him...

I'm sorry I've never heard of it. :shrug:Be aware none of those wiring diagram will work with our Dodge Ram.Battery +12 -> Fuse -> Head light -> Dimmer switch -> Headlight Switch -> Ground

I carry a spare key in my wallet for that exact reason. I've already been locked out of my truck on a fire call. :banghead:

If you look at most medium duty truck they use mostly air brake line for all the gauges. Stuff it through a grommet and away you go.

To go along with ISX statement... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8 So the whole cold air intake comes to a rest now. What ISX is getting at is the intake temperature after the intercooler. It all up to the intercooler not the cold air intake.

Something like this... http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63028/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710594088&catargetid=1784155633&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIKOpqXVx7UCFap_QgodZzkAtQ http://www.mico.com/products/lever-lock

But there is a difference... Mindless tows for a living and Rogan typical is empty. (or are you?)

I tend to agree mechanical gauge much more accurate than tapping the OBDII bus or electronic gauges.

Russ is right... My reasons was with all the offroad use I rub holes in it. So the one that was given to me lasted about 6 months and in the trash it went with holes.

Yeah. You could just cap it off.

Yes. Any 2 cycle oil works but I suggest staying to petroleum based products.