Mopar1973Man

I won't be able to tell you but maybe a dodge Dealer could. As for electronic failures I'm finding that 90% of then stem from grounds, battery issues, alternator noise, etc. Being that electronics typically will last a very long time on just battery power but introduce noise to the power it will cause damage for sure. The other 10% is environment. Maybe the ECM is seeing serious high temps from a overheating truck.

Just because the alternator was replace doesn't mean it clean power. Read more here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884 Any ECM will work basically its just the software that is different and yes the VIN and a few other tags will tell all about the vehicle and what it requires for software. As for the reman'ed ECM's most end up with expensive paper weights. Some have been lucky...

Sound like a ECM issue coming on. I would check the alternator first of for AC noise output from bad diodes. Then once you know you got clean power and no AC noise issues then I would try swapping ECM's with someone and see if the problem goes away. If so then you know the ECM is failing and requires replacement.

Sorry about the lag... But its just a plug N play item for speed sensors. They are just screwed to the wheel bearings in front and plug in. Just for research value I would go over to RockAuto.com for a idea of what it looks like.

Normally when I do brakes I pull each calliper out disassemble, clean and then reassemble this prevent pumping the trash into calliper during bleeding process. During the time the calliper is removed the system will drain out completely. So you got a clean slate for reloading.As for the power steering you want to use AH64ID write up in the 3rd Gen area.

Check out this video. http://youtu.be/Wi6gZU01yF8

Hey gang can we help this new family member out with not only his truck but how to use the forum too. First thing I typically ask for is error codes (using a OBDII reader) and fuel pressure (idle to WOT at highway speeds).

True Jake Brake coming soon. http-~~-//youtu.be/xT0Ua2ogGJQ If you search them on youtube you will come up with other videos!! Here is an 'update' from them: (Because of 'bandwidth' problems, I can't seem to post up the other videos.....) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ByCompressionRelease Dec 21, 2012 4,203 views 24 likes, 0 dislikes UPDATE: Ok guys, thought we should let you know how this project is going. First of all, this is still our number one priority, and though it seems slow, we are getting ever closer to a finished product. I read a statement on a Cummins forum one time, where a guy made the statement that it would cost the equivalent of several new pickups to produce an OEM reliable engine brake. Well that is true for sure. Now we are several months and many thousands of dollars into this project but we're getting close. We have made a change in our original plan for the release of the units. We started out by building a mechanical rotary valve to distribute oil to the cylinders. That was the simplest and most straightforward way. A mechanical valve on a mechanical engine, but obviously that method had limited potential. Not too many of you still drive a 12 valve. The marketability of the design would dictate that an electronically controlled version would have to be the end result for you guys with 24v and CRs. Our original plan was to release the rotary valve model for the 12v to fund the production of the others, but the rotary valve design proved too complicated and we never found a machine shop that would build them. We finally just decided to take the leap. We have two nerds... I mean programmers, writing code as we speak. As far as beta test vehicles, we appreciate all of your offers, and will definitely be in touch when the time gets closer. Meanwhile, know that we are hurrying as fast as we can. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First of all, thank you so much for all of your kind comments on our previous videos. We decided to show you a few still shots of our engine brake before Christmas. Please give us until after the holidays before you get mad at us for our junior high girl secrets, we just understand metal much better than we understand attorneys, and we don't want to do anything stupid. We would like to respond to some of your questions: 1) Do we have plans for other models? Yes, we have plans in the near future for second generation 12 valves, 24 valves, Common Rail, and Powerstrokes. 2) Can we ballpark a price? No, out of respect for our future distributor we will not talk about money. 3) Braking effectiveness? We don't have any real numbers for two reasons, the first being that everytime we take the truck out for testing, we giggle like school girls, make videos, and post them on YouTube against our better judgement. The second reason is because the answer is not in words, the answer is in numbers which cannot come from us. Someday soon we hope someone like DieselPower Magazine would stage a competition... we would love to participate. We can tell you that we have driven a 7.3 Powerstroke with an exhaust brake for 11 years and there simply is no comparison. 4) Expected release date? We can hardly sleep at night... so, believe us, as soon as possible. Fortunately, this will be sold as a simple, bolt-on kit, that you can install in your driveway in an afternoon with normal tools. So, if you are building a 12 valve... don't stop, you won't have to change anything except the rocker boxes. The pictures are from our original prototype and the timing mechanism presented here has been changed three times since then. What you are seeing, unfortunately, didn't work at all, but made for some really great pictures. The current timing mechanism is still under wraps until our deal is finalized. Source: http://www.idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=10575

The only thing I do is verify the voltage is below the tag voltage and its fine. If its above the tag voltage then I would suggest turning it down. The only reason is the IVS switch will be stuck in throttling mode and exhaust brake don't work unless it see ground on the idle pin of the IVS.

Here you go.

High Idle can be programmed to any 98.5 to 02 regardless of configuration. Now the technician has to be smart enough not to flash the ECM but to just enable the high idle option. Steps are in bold below... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/85-tsb-18-019-01-cold-idle-engine-warming Date: September 3, 2001 Models: 1998 1/2-2002 BR/BE Ram Trucks NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL RAM TRUCKS BUILT AFTER DECEMBER 17,1997 AND EQUIPPED WITH THE 24-VALVE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE. Discussion: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Engine Control Module (ECM) with new software (Cal 55Tl8, 57Tl1, 56Tl3, 59T7b, and 59T8b.) Symptom/Condition: Extended idle operation, especially in cold weather, can lead to stuck valves and bent push-tubes due to insufficient cylinder heat. This allows varnishes/oils to condense on the exhaust valve stems, leading to stuck valves, and damaged valve train components. A new software feature, enabled or disabled through the DRB III (See instructions under Repair Procedure), reduces the chance of valve sticking and improves cab heat warm-up time. Once enabled, idle speed will slowly ramp up from 800 rpm to 1200 rpm when all of the following conditions are met: 1. Intake Manifold Temperature less than 0°C (32°F) and, 2. Coolant Temp is less than 60°C (140°F) and, 3. The Transmission is in Neutral or Park and, 4. The Service Brake pedal is not depressed and, 5. Throttle = 0% and, 6. Vehicle Speed = 0 mph Additionally, if Intake Manifold Temperature (IMT) is less than -9°C (15°F), and all of the parameters above are met, three of the cylinders will be shut off upon reaching 1200 rpm, creating a slight change in engine sound which is normal. This allows the engine to create increased heat in the cooling system, allowing more rapid engine warm up and cab heating. Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs: 1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or, 2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or, 3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or, 4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or, 5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F). Engine speed will return to normal operation at 800 rpm. If the engine continues to idle and coolant temperature is at or below 60°C (140°'F), the feature will re enable. In order to operate properly, the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) must stay at idle. NOTE: ANY TYPE OF AFTERMARKET IDLE SPEED KICKER THAT ACTIVATES THE APPS WILL DISABLE THIS FEATURE. Use of the 110V block heater will not allow the feature to function after an overnight soak. If the vehicle is left idling, without use of the block heater, 1200 rpm operation will begin when the intake temperature drops below O°C (32°F) and coolant is less than 60°C (140°F). Diagnosis: 1. Using the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRBIII) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If other Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. Parts Required: [TABLE] [TR] [TD] Qty.[/TD] [TD] Part No.[/TD] [TD] Description[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 1[/TD] [TD] 04669020[/TD] [TD] Label, Authorized Software Update[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 1[/TD] [TD] 04275086[/TD] [TD] Label, Authorized Modification[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Equipment Required: [TABLE] [TR] [TD] CH6000A[/TD] [TD] Scan Tool (DRB III)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] CH7035[/TD] [TD] General Purpose Interface Bus Cable (GPIB)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] CH7000/7001[/TD] [TD] J1962 Cable[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD] MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System)[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] NOTE: THE MDS2 AND DRB III ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM PART OF THIS REPAIR. WHEN USING THE MDS2 AND THE DRB III, THE SYSTEM MUST BE OPERATING AT CIS CD 2090 OR HIGHER (2090 ARRIVES IN DEALERSHIPS ON SEPTEMBER 3, 2001). Repair Procedure: 1. Log onto the MDS2 (Mopar Diagnostic System). 2. Connect the MDS2 and DRBIII to the vehicle and switch the ignition key to"ON". NOTE: AUTO CONNECTION WILL OCCUR ONCE THE DRB III, MDS2, AND VEHICLE ESTABLISH COMMUNICATION. THE "CANNOT READ VIN FROM DRB III" MESSAGE (ON THE MDS2) WILL BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE VIN. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON ON THE MDS2 TO REQUEST A L4DS2 SESSION FOR THE VEHICLE VIN INDICATED. PRESS THE "OK"BUTTON WHEN ASKED TO BEGIN SESSION. 3. Push the FLASH tab on the MDS2. 4. Select READ PART NUMBERS FROM VEHICLE and click SHOW UPDATES on the MDS2. NOTE: A MESSAGE MAY APPEAR (AFTER STEP 3 OR 4) THAT INDICATES NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE. IF THIS OCCURS, MAKE SURE YOUR DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT IS OPERATING AT THE LATEST SOFTWARE LEVEL AS LISTED EARLIER IN THIS BULLETIN. IF THE LATEST SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED, AND NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE ANOTHER VEHICLE CONDITION EXISTS THAT WILL REQUIRE FURTHER INVESTIGATION. 5. Select the new software part number with the light pen and click UPDATE CONTROLLER SOFTWARE. 6. The MDS2 and DRB III will prompt for any operator action needed during the remainder of the reprogramming process. NOTE: DUE TO THE PCM REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE, A DTC MAY BE SET IN OTHER MODULES (EATX, BCM, MIC, SKIM, ETC.) WITHIN THE VEHICLE, IF SO EQUIPPED. SOME DTC'S MAY CAUSE THE MIL TO ILLUMINATE. ALL DTC'S RELATE TO A LOSS OF COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE MODULE THAT IS BEING REPROGRAMMED. CHECK ALL MODULES, RECORD THE FAULTS, AND ERASE THESE FAULTS PRIOR TO RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. ERASE ANY FAULTS IN THE PCM ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER MODULES HAVE HAD THEIR FAULTS ERASED. NOTE: ONCE THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED TO THE PROPER SOFTWARE LEVEL, YOU MUST USE THE DRB III TO ENABLE THE 3 CYLINDER IDLE FEATURE. TO DO SO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW. 7. Connect the DRB III to the vehicle without connecting to MDS2 and follow the menu structures it appears below. 8. MAIN MENU - 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS 9. 1998 - 2002 DIAGNOSTICS - ALL (EXCEPT BELOW) 10. SELECT SYSTEM - 1 ENGINE 11. CONTROLLER TYPE - 1 CUMMINS (ECM/ENGINE) 12. SELECT FUNCTION - 1 MISCELLANEOUS (Misc. is on second page) 13. 3.3 CYLINDER IDLE - Follow the instructions The DRB III will indicate whether the feature is enabled or disabled. 14. Push 1 to Enable, 2 to Disable. 15. You are instructed to cycle the ignition to complete the repair. 16. Press Page Back to Exit. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW. 17. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update Label" p/n 04669020 (Fig. 1). Attach the label to the PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay.

Hex as for you north of me by only 5 hours. It going to get worse in the cities as the economy continues it down hill ride. Sorry you had to be reminded this way. I was already informed by my local Sheriff that they don't like come to this end of the county for anything because of lack of communications (on cell no radio). So all the other officers I've talked to as well said they are rather scared to come down here. So if my own county doesn't like to come to me I better be packing too...

I tend to agree...

Now as for a average from what I see I would say most CR's make 200-250K and then fail. Don't get me wrong there are people that are up on the game and replace parts when they become damaged and do it promptly and get well up in the higher numbers for mileage.

Here is a article about what your doing... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment You want the voltage at idle to be roughly 0.3 to 0.4 volts. Lower is better. If you go too high the IVS (Idle validation switch) will be toggled and the ECM will go from idle to throttling mode. As for the APPS reset its the same process... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/258-how-to-reset-calibrate-apps-sensor

Welcome to the family...

It should be in Utah now be dealt with... No longer my issue.

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

Can if you wish. But I typically suggest against it.But remember that synthetic will cost you more over the same period of time. Also remember that synthetic lubricant don't have any PPD (pour point depressants) so it will not aid in the pour point factor like petroleum oils that do have PPD package added.

If you could do a compression test it would tell you a bit more of which holes are damaged.

Cool... At least you found it...

Welcome to the family. That's what we are here for to help each other out in keeping the trucks rolling.

You'll want to to talk to the in house 12V guru "ISX" he'll have a good idea why this problem is happening.

Personally I would see what fitting is on the compressor and see about replacing all the hose and the air chuck as a unit with something standard. Might talk to this outfit and see if you can a self-locking chuck... http://www.jjandaracing.com/contents/en-us/d24.html

Suggestion get a used ECM and have it reflashed. As for protecting your investment you want to pull off you alternator and have it bench tested for AC noise output it should be less than 0.1 Volts AC.