Mopar1973Man

:think:The man you need to talk to is ISX my second in command here. He's my 12V guru on the site and should be able to shed some light on the subject.

Check this out... http://www.autoblog.com/2011/07/22/worlds-largest-diesel-engine-makes-109-000-horsepower/

A lot has change about the site since 2009. All the articles have been moved to... http://articles.mopar1973man.com

No. Not that I can't say it's not possible. I can't see the ABS module being a cause unless there is something broken valve wise inside.

I'll give you food for thought the last time I took my RV275 injectors out and installed my stock 235 HP injectors I didn't even bleed the low pressure side nor did I bother to crack a injector. I bumped the start a few cycles till a good fuel pressure number shown then crank on the engine maybe 10-15 seconds it fired right up. I must still have a strong VP44 to fire up that easy.

Here is his web page and contact info. http://jlweldingtx.com/

Remember the closer you are to the injection pump the stronger the water hammer pulses are and more damage you'll do to a pressure gauge.

Also that why there is that tiny hole in the overflow line is to help push the air out of the injection pump as well.

Very educational post! Thank you ISX!

You got it worse than we did. Got to about 70-75*F here then dropped to about 35*F and snowed ever so slightly just enough to dust the ground lightly and then disappear the next day. Those B2's look like UFO's kind of...

I'm going to do the same thing is install the new injectors and re-check the valve lash. Why not. The valve cover is already off... Injectors should be here today...

Yes. The big wrench hangs on the pulley bolts and the smaller wrench turns the fan clutch off the stem. Yes. It's a left hand thread so it turns to the driver side with the wrench handle.

No I can't. The exhaust brake is hanging me with a HX35W turbo permanently. So I'll never be upgrading turbos. Also I'm not after major HP/TQ. I'm after the MPG numbers. So at this point there is no need in upgrading to 75 HP or even larger. I got enough problems with 2nd and 3rd gear barking the tires now with or without the RV. That's on the old wore out RV275's. Call him up and ask about it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors/11-vulcan-performance

Get ahold of JL Welding (member here on the forum) he can make you a set of fan wrenches for your truck.

Sorry to hear the loss of a family member. It does sound like you've been busy. Don't worry we'll hold you a spot here on the forum.

Yeah that wasn't too bad being that the valve lash could be....Intake - 0.006 to 0.015Exhaust - 0.015 to 0.030Some of use run slightly tighter lash settings too. I'm running 0.008 and 0.018. This give a illusion of a slightly bigger cam profile.

Just be careful of your temperature while using vegetable based oils. As the temperature get colder the veggie based oils tend to settle to the bottom and thicken up.

Ok. so thinking deeper on this.Does it do it with a full tank of fuel?Is the fuel gauge functioning properly? Like mine would get down to about 1/2 tank and actually was near empty.My problem thinking out loud here is that you claim there is air flow from the filter can. I've got a hard time with that knowing that the pressure is dumped rather quickly form the fuel system once the engine is shut down so that means the pressure would have to be in the tank as well. But loosening the cap did fix it. :think:Anyone else want a stab at this one too?

Question...How did you get it out? I've never bother to try and pull the valve all the way out. So how did you remove it?

They don't get any shorter...

Positive probe (DVM) -> Positive post of either batteryNegative probe (DVM) -> Negative post of either battery

I can tell you that dropping my old RV275's out and putting back in my stock injectors I lost about 3 MPG. My trip to Lewiston, ID I maxed out at about 17.5 MPG round trip. Hence why the replace are being purchased because the old one where just too pissy and misfiring to much at idle again so after seeing a few day of driving and the MPG is lower with stock I'm going back to +50 HP and should see the brown truck Friday. I know what I'm doing Saturday morning...

Nothing. You can't adjust the APPS sensor for the PCM. Also you should never adjust using the PCM voltage this will absolutely cause problems for the ECM then being the IVS (Idle validation switches) in the APPS sensor will be in the wrong mode. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment

I'd say you got lots of clearance.

Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. Check DC voltage then Check AC voltage. DC Voltage: 13.5 to 14.5 DC Volts (Passing grade)AC Voltage: Less than 0.1 AC Volts (Passing grade)If you get a instant 31 Volts AC your DVM is low quality and is not capable of measure different frequencies other than 60 Hz household. Oscilloscope is the best way to measure alternator output but not everyone has one.