Mopar1973Man

There is another factor most miss. How about the accuracy of the pyrometer gauge itself. Also the location of the probe either post turbo, pre-turbo 1-3, or preturbo 4-6... all play a role in the EGT's and measurements.

Well I yanked my RV275's back out. They started to misfire at idle again. Looking them over and the nozzle where only lightly sooty and the nozzle holes were very visible even to the naked eye. So I already talked to a shop in Lewiston, Idaho about retuning hem back to pop pressure. Like I told him I found injector with a wore shim and I'm pretty sure this injector is my problem. So I'll report back what I find out when I get them bench tested.

Well as I was crawling under the truck I noticed the straight pipe was looking rather rotten and full of small holes. So I now replaced it with a fresh piece of pipe and no longer have to worry about that. What was amazing is the clamp came off good and was totally re-usable. I didn't break them or gall up the threads. I chased he threads with a nut and anti-seized them again and back on the pipe they went. 11 year old clamps and still going.

Exactly why I move the switch to the stick so I could control the exhaust brake and not have to listen to the hissing noise excessively. But was able to arm and disarm the exhaust brake any time I wished. Flick of the thumb.

I don't even bother anymore. I just monitor the ScanGauge for unusual values from the sensors. Since I fool my IAT through the winter months and MAP sensor doesn't seem affected by the sooty oil. As at cold start up I typically have the IAT sensor on so I just verify the temp against the coolant number if they match sensors are good.

I've been known to touch 1,400*F but rarely and only for 10 seconds or less.My typical limit is 1,200*F and if so then I gear down 1 gear and kick the RPM's back up to 2K and hold and watch the EGT's. Most grades I can pull in 4th gear and hover about 1,000 to 1,100*F in EGT's.

You know if they showed that same video back for the 2nd Gen's it would of been assembled in about half the time...

I would just flush the the system completely with water for several minutes and then reload with what ever coolant you want.

Collapsed lifter?What's the oil pressure like?

I use mine 90-95% of the time. I moved the switch to my stick and control it with my right thumb. I can use mine all the way down to 0 MPH. Here is a few videos of how I use it.

Ummm... Seems someone read my ball joint nightmare thread. Harbor freight ball joint press will work but its not perfect. Actually harbor freight ball joint press works awesome on u-joints.

Pull the thermostat out and stick the hose in the radiator and turn on high. Then fire up the truck and let the water pump through till clear. Shut off and drain the water out park it nose down on a slope. Then mix your coolant 50/50 and fill the block up till the coolant is level with the thermostat hole. Then replace the thermostat with a new one and install. Top off with coolant. Take it for a ride and allow to cool and check your levels again.

I got a friend's dad to put my rotors up on a lathe and turn them true. He fiddled around with getting them exactly perfect in the lathe for nearly 30 minutes a piece. Then only turned about 5 to 10 thousandths off all 4 rotors. Absolutely smooth and great braking. (Thank you Relentless70)

NAPA... I've got Dripley's $10 thermostat and it works fine! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5637-Would-you-come-forward-please!?highlight=thermostat Typically that would show up as a constant hot engine because of diminished cooling capacity of the radiator. Happens every winter with outside temps in the minus. Still an all the thermostat should closed and keep its heat. Once again consider my minus temperature up north here I still have ZERO problem keeping 190-195 solid all winter long.

During this process you should be able to back probe the clockspring also and see if the switch is working or not. Could be a damaged clockspring or a damaged switch. I doubt is a servo problem because if it was you would have trouble either holding cruise or outright shutting it down.

Like these guys are showing there is a rare chance that something else will effect weird coolant temperatures. But would rather replace thermostats that guessing at ECM and wiring unless the thermostats don't fix the problems. So make sure to do you testing before buying ECM or wiring harness.

This river ranges from 40-100 feet deep. In some areas its can be only waist deep. Yeah a fish finder or sonar would be a good idea.

That the only reason I don't think it will change much. But we need to hear from the OP and find out what he's found any ways...

99.9% of the time is a bad thermostat.

Another great video on how engine blocks are made.

Something I stumbled across on Youtube and figured its worth sharing.

Corrected link. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=220

Haven't yet. At least on the 96 Dodge...My 02 is solid axle which is another option to to forcibly lock the axle and leave it locked. There is no real big loss in MPG's with locked really.

Oil Leaks locations [*]Front crank seal [*]Rear Crank seal [*]Tappet cover gasket (or AKA cam cover gasket) [*]Vacuum pump [*]Valve cover gasket (rare) [*]Turbo drain (hose connection) Vacuum leaks As for vacuum lines for the plastic just remove them and flex the line in a big arc and if the line is crack it will continue to crack or break when you bow the plastic because it just plan brittle from age. I just grab some vinyl tubing and replaced all the lines on MoparMom's 96 Dodge for the same issue. Other than that the vacuum pump becomes a air compressor and imitates blow by issues. Personal note: I need to catch you phone call I'll be home tonight!

Hey gang... Let put THRacing and Rogan into our prayers that they both can over come their medical issues that they are both having! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7714-re-dad?p=73450#post73450