Mopar1973Man

Head towards 8-9 years of BHAF usage without Outerwears. I had one for a short time but got tired of it really quick. The fact it rubbed holes in it in less than 3-4 months and was a PITA to keep pulling off and washing all the time. I still get 100K miles without a outwears on it.

Wow! I love this trailer this is now my 3rd load of firewood hauling 2 cords a loads. Pulls like a dream on the highway even loaded with two cords of firewood. It's been so nice to go out saw up 2 cords, roll the rounds on the deck without lifting, and do it all in about 4 hours and be heading home hauling twice as much as just loading the truck. My body has been thanking me since I bought this trailer I can haul more firewood and not kill my back lifting ever piece 35 inches to the bed of the truck and then lift again to stack it...Nice part is I got hired to haul firewood this weekend with Kelly for another friend (Eric) and made few bucks being a truck driver. Funny part is when we unloaded in Eric's yard we buried his log splitter in the pile so now Eric got to split his way out of the pile.

For those that got it from Cummins did you mail order it or have to go to a local dealer to get it? I'm 180 miles from a Cummins dealer... :rolleyes:That's why I'd been looking towards possible a site vendor...

Now you know why I live in Central Idaho... :tongue:Heck, I just spent two days in the woods cutting firewood in the forest. I didn't see anyone in two days in the forest. Now get back to the highway people are driving excessive fast even in a twisty canyon road with a 45 MPH speed limit. I'm so happy to be out in the woods with my Cummins, trailer and a chainsaw. Boy I hate coming back home some days.When I'm loaded with 7K worth of trailer weight I'm not going to race to the nextt 35 MPH corner,romp on the brakes and exhaust brake and then romp back on the throttle to race to the next corner. Just totally foolish...

Here you go... http://www.genosgarage.com/BANJO-BOLT-TAPPED-985-09-59L-67L/productinfo/BF-LONG-TAPPED/

Fuel pressure?Sounds like the typical torn diaphragm in the VP44 which becomes hypersensitive to fuel pressure during cranking. So when you testing fuel pressure also report the cranking pressure as well.

Dorkweed... Dorkweed cleared 84K miles on a single oil change with WalMart SuperTech Unverisal Diesel Oil. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/7-dorkweed CajFlynn... CajFlynn cleared 1.3 Million miles on just Chevron Delo 15w-40 and fleetguard filters. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/145-cajflynn

5w-40 or 15w-40 is going to be the same. The fact is the coolant is going to reach 190-200*F and the final weight of the oil is still 40 weight. The only difference is the cold start is lighter. Which in your case with the summer heat its not going to matter anyways. As for conditions the oil run in is based on coolant not outside temp. Because the coolant is a constant 190-200*F roughly it really doesn't make any sense to change oil weights or brand just because summer is here. Two good guys to discuss oil about is CajFlynn and Dorkweed. Oh... It's going to be 106*F by Monday here at the house and yesterday in Riggins, ID when I stopped by Kelly's place it was 102*F in the shade of his shop. Ugh! Something to ponder... In all the years I've worked forums I've never seen a single Cummins Engine that was running Synthetic oil make over 1 million miles. But I've seen several Cummins engine running petroleum based oil make million miles and nearly 2 million miles. Just food for thought...

One I enjoy a bunch... Is cruising along at 55-60 MPH have one guy behind you that REALLY wants to pass bad. He takes off at full throttle around you. Running so hard you can smell catalytic converter burning (stinks like rotten eggs). Then you find him up the road pulled over by a state cop. As you drive by slowly and wave at him. You can see him totally pissed off. I've had that happen a few times since I've been in Idaho. I just love it.

Where you'll get hung up is diagnosing electrical and sensor issue its always best to have a live data tool so you can see what the ECM/PCM sees. Because ohm test and voltage test won't make any sense to you nor match up with any live data. So you'll never know if its right or not. But like a over heat issue you could use a IR temp gun measure the block at the sensor and the look at the live data display and see a match but the gauge is high then you already know the gauge is defective.

Seriously I would call a local radiator shop and ask what they use to flush blocks out.

Puke bottle started in 1998.5 till 2002. One of the most common over heat problems...

Hey Gang...Just to skip hunting over the site I know you guys can spit out the place to get vacuum pump rebuild kit. Mine is finally starting to leak engine oil and getting the side of the block hosed with engine oil. Not enough to drip on the floor of the shop but it won't be long. So could you point to the information on the vacuum pump rebuild kit and any helpful hint would be great.

I'm not far behind you its typical for Riggins, ID to be 110-115*F all summer long... Just because I live in Idaho doesn't mean we don't see 100-120*F temps either.

but there is something about the external adjustment that has issues. I've haven't had a chance to see one and see the differences in the design. Like I know the old school spring and check ball had a issue about cramming the ball back in the spring but I figured out a solution. Just egg shape the last coil and the problem is solved for a home user. As for a future design fix was to make a shouldered washer that keep the diameter of the spring constant like old holley accelerator pump springs. But AirDog never listen to my idea even when I talked to the tech department. This is not suggested. Water hammer pulses will eventually damage the gauge... I know it liquid filled but water hammer pulses are the strongest at the Bosch VP44 injection pump since its the source of the water hammer. It always suggest and best to hook up the pressure gauge as far back from the Bosch VP44 injection pump and forward of the last fuel filter.

Needle valve is installed right at the point tapping the fuel line. This gives me a shut off point also everything behind the needle valve is protected. So like my needle valve is right in the fuel line between the stock fuel filter and the VP44.

Factory spec starts at 7.5K miles for a oil change. Something to think about more people have cross the million mile mark on petroleum lubricants than synthetics. More people have crossed the million mile mark without doing a single oil analysis. I've got local ranchers with 250-500K miles on 1st and 2nd Gen truck changing oil at 15-20K miles. Just food for thought. Even Mom's 1996 Dodge 1500 calls for oil change every 6K miles...

I know Ford products had a lot of electric shift transfer cases...

He's also here... Look up Yankneck696 he'll help you out.

2008 Honda Rancher oil filter...

Yes. The ODBII port splitters work fine. The devices are prioritized by communications. So no need to worry typically all ODBII communication are dealt with by the first bit if its 1 or 0. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Mobil 15w-40 or Chevron Delo 15w-40, Fleetguard Oil Filters, and my Frantz Bypass filter. 217K miles and heading for the moon (253K miles). Change oil every 10K miles.

Ok. then you want to talk to CajFlynn here on the site. The only thing he did for his 2001 Dodge 2500 was change oil every 20K miles, used a Fleetguard filters, and Chevron Delo 15w-40 and the truck cleared 1.3 MILLION miles. No bypass filter ever used. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3435-1-000-000-Miles-Yet?highlight=million+miles

As long as the Wait to Start light comes on the software booted into RAM and complete without issues and the software starts up by checking the IAT sensor and the need for grid heaters. If there is no Wait To Start light then there is no ECM and it will not start because there is no signal for the VP44 nor is there signal to the fuel pump relay in the PDC to supply power to the VP44. so its a dead truck. The lack of Wait to Start is typically caused by a bad RAM in the ECM and during booting process there is memory errors so the boot up process is dumped and retried till it does boot up properly.

I'm one of the few that's never had single issue with a NV4500 transmission ever. The only thing I have had fail was the clutch disk. No 5th gear nut problems, no broke input shaft issues, nothing. I tow and haul heavy every summer. No problems at all. Most of it that I figured out is the oversized tires and high torque output of modified engine puts huge stress on the NV4500 which works the 5th gear nut off and breaks input shafts. But since I run a small 235's and capable of breaking the tires loose I cannot pin the torque to these parts and cause a failure like other have mention. Take it for what it worth. I'm at 217K and heading for the moon. Distance to the moon... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunar_distance_%28astronomy%29 Then I'm heading home again...