Mopar1973Man

Suggestion. Move it back to the rear diff cover you'll never break the light while hitching up then.

My AirDog 150 was back in the day when the original owner was still producing. But now AirDog quality has slid downhill. Way to many problems with air leaks, fitting problems, mounting issues, etc. Now if you where to build your own mounting bracket from steel like old school and ditch all the hoses and fitting and got a roll of parker hose and Push-Loc JIC fitting most of the problems would be solved. I'm not in pressed with Raptors or AD 165 adjustable regulator. Wat too much to fail. Old school AD 100/150's are very stable.

Heck... My cheapy propane Weber BBQ $25 is just chrome plated steel and it lasted 3 years so far. Getting rather ugly now.

LEDs are cool lighting but expensive. :spend:I truly wonder how long the wheel well light are going to last or work with all the debris flung by the tires and the mud and dirt that will stick to the lights?

Like our instructor said most of the time the high voltage stuff is in the center of the vehicle and could be any bright colored wire (Yellow, Orange, etc.) It now a standard for orange to be used but early years there wasn't so be aware. Also a note a "standard set" of bolt cutters will not be able to even open bigger enough to cut high voltage lines.

Yes. Basically take the smart key and get it away from the vehicle after its shut off. You could cut battery power to it (FD dept policy?) But if the battery bank catches fire the say to let it burn. As for extrication on a hybrid vehicle same peel and peek is required for air bags and work as usual just being careful and cautious.

Hold on a sec. Blower motor ground is in the cab at the driver side kick panel as well as the headlight switch ground. This would also cover the ground for instrument panel as well.

I think that is key to the trans flushing is getting the pan off and changing the filter and adjusting the bands.

LOL. Kind of like the river running across the road from me which is the Little Salmon River we call it the Little Salmon Sewer being its nothing but cow pi$$ and cow crap from in New Meadows washing its way down the canyon. As for my creek water its clean enough I use it for drinking water in the RV on many times. I'm not worried. Either that or the well water which comes out of the ground too. Both very clean. As for my cooling system reason I'm not having issues is my change intervals. since most all fluid are called to be replace every 30k miles I change coolant at this time as well, flush the block, change the thermostat, etc. I'm just about due for another change anyways about 2k away.

Creek water and green or yellow anti-freeze. (Less the sand and mud). 11 years and 222k miles no issues.

Auto door locks is a central timer thing...

Ok. Something to share with you then. I had a gent that had the very same problem with the P0341 and P1690 we went through the diagnostics as I listed above. Not was wrong. He replaced the cam sensor, the VP44, even did a custom cam sensor thinking maybe the cam was moving. (thrust plate). Needless to say it was a weak connection either at the ECM or Cam Sensor because after the dealer replaced both plugs (ECM and Cam sensor) the problem was gone. So since you have a intermittent problem like light switch it going to be a bad connection or loose wire or maybe a broken wire somewhere.

More to add... Bosch VP44 injection pump requirements http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements Bosch VP44 injection pump fuel pressure specifications http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

No grid heater will make it tough down at about 20-25*F on 24V engine.So I would look on the oil filter side of the block for a heater. Typically NAPA would sell the cord for about $30 bucks. If the heater is missing (pipe plug in the hole) then just order a block heater for it. If you want simple get a freeze plug style and install it.The only other reason a 4BT would have a tough time starting in cool weather is the rings are wore out. I would then do a compression test to verify the cylinder health.

Remember 5% of 35 Gallons is 1.75 gallons or 20:1 ratio. When I'm mixing 2 cycle oil is at 128:1 ratio or 1 ounce per gallon or 0.02% ...Huge difference. I don't even suggest mixing over 100:1 ratio because of the cetane and cSt problem.

Here read up on the two codes. P0341 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/176-p0341-camshaft-position-sensor-signal-missing P1690 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor If you need a wiring map they are here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

I've never had a reason for synthetic oils for the truck being more people have crossed the million mile mark on petroleum oils. To this day I never found anyone that cross million milestone with synthetics. I use 15w-40 Mobil petroleum oils all winter long with absolutely zero issues. (Minus weather too)

Brushes going south or the commutator wearing out? Something is increasing the amperage draw across the contacts.

I'm also a stock hydro's with a Soutbend Con OFE disc and no issues here. Solid hook up and very good control.

I gather this is a black/tan color cable? Which would be a ground lead. The straight black is the charge cable. I would do the AC noise test to verify if the alternator is indeed creating AC noise.

Then there is this too. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8458-Thoughts-about-Raptor-pumps I'll post pics later on I've got a drawstraw yet to install.

I would do this as well. Als overify the speed your traveling with a GPS since your speedometer is most likely skewed with larger tires. [*]Check for codes [*]Check fuel pressure from idle to WOT [*]Make sure you getting into lockup [*]Overboosting (should show up in the error codes)

I got my shot to install another Raptor pump. They seem to getting worse all the time now. The base frame bracket is now a composite plastic of some sort. Can't even tight up the bolt enough to set the lock washers. It seem to start bowing really faster and looking like you could break the corners off. The since its plastic they had to make it thicker now. So now the plates don't fit behind the existing fuel line line with old school steel plates. You've got to lever the steel lines up to get the plastic plate behind it. Oh make sure to pull one holder bolt so you can. Then with all the quick connect fittings. The 2 fittings right at the pump are wiggle loose right out of the box. I can see this going bad in a very short time for the owner. The pump itself seem to be a good pump. I wasn't impressed with fact the Pureflow included two push lock fitting to trim there hoses down. It would of been better to go back to the old school roll of hose and push lock JIC's and been done. The new quick connect fitting rely on o-rings to seal the fittings where Push Lock JIC's had tapers to seal the fittings. Still cannot do custom installs with the new quick connect system. If it was me I would of install the pump up be the bed side to guard it more for the owner since he uses the truck offroad. But since it pre-cut hose I force to mount the pump in the damage path of the front tires.I did manage to toss a bit of custom install to it which can be done. Near the back of the engine on the frame rail there was a nice hole large enough to for the hose and the electrical so I ran it from there to the larger hole at the transfer case. At that point I only had about 1 foot exposed. Then since the owner had the bed off I was able to run the hose along the stock line up to the tank top. Looks very good.

I just got done doing a VP44 and Raptor pump on a local rig yesterday. I'm getting quick I manage to remove and replace a VP44 in about 2 hours. Then install the Raptor pump custom in just a bit over a hour. I think what was a amazing I did this outside in the rain no less. But for priming. I bumped the starter twice. Had 1, 3, 4 injector lines cracked. Then cracked till she attempted to start. Tighten the injector lines. Not a problem it started up and purred a bit rough. Couple of good deep throttle strokes to blow the air from the lines and smoothed out even more. http://goo.gl/maps/RQvoD