Mopar1973Man

Looks like a voltage drop at first start (grid heaters post heating) then the pressure pops up after grid heater shut off. More of electrical issue than a pump.

I agree...We've got to pay our bills... why doesn't the Gov't? He's right just balance the budget...

I like woman that are not afraid to work hard at anything. I don't want a Barbie Doll that is too scared to get dirty. I want a woman with some brains upstairs too. Like I know of a gal lives near me about my age and she is rare to see her outside working. When does does she'll split firewood and some yard work. But rare. The rest of the time she stay cleaned up and pretty. Hates to get dirty.

My current setting are. Flow Offset: 15.5% (still need to calibrate it!) Speed offset: 2% (new tires 235/85 R16)

During my service time of the fire dept. I've learned quite a bit about driving heavy trucks and high profile vehicles in the mountains of Idaho. First few times it will spook you when wind catches the truck or coming down a grade and all that weight is pushing you. All I can say is take example from the big trucks most of them slow down big time in high winds, and travel up and down grades slowly (<35 MPH). Most of our fire trucks are ranging from 15K pounds to over 60K pounds. But you got to remember the length and height of the RV is like the tail wagging the dog. The 2 extra tires might make it a bit more stable... Think about it CajFlynn is towing even bigger boats that are heavier with a bumper pull trailer and does it all with a 3/4 ton truck. I know CajFlynn had invest quite of bit into that truck to make it do what it did. Yeah its a automatic trans but beefed up. Also running smaller 17" tires to keep the stability. etc...

Nevermind my post. :banghead:Thinking 24V stuff...

Typically the rear axle one is the the blame for 99% of all speedometer errors. But being its showing fast only on the Edge Display (assuming here) then I would say the Edge Module has failed you or a wiring issue.

You mean this one... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Ahh... Are you sure its the PCM (Powertrain Control module)? Because the PCM doesn't control most of that stuff the the only thing it controls alternator. The ECM (Engine Control Module) on the side of the engine controls most all those devices. Sound more like a CCD Bus/Network error. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus What you need to do is take a DVM and check for the bus voltage. You can probe pins 3 and 11 in the OBD socket and reference to ground. So what I mean is if you insert the red probe in the #3 pin the black probe will be in #4. So what I would do is probe the socket looking for the voltages shown most likely be shorted to ground (0 VDC) so I would continue to unplug devices. ABS brakes, Air Bag controller, Radio, Instrument cluster, overhead computer (if equipped), etc.When the signal returns then you know you've found the issue. I would also check for error code because it might clue in on which device that might of failed.

Sure don't live in Riggins, ID now maybe Boise / Kuna area...

He's solely a vendor but he does get his from one of the certified rebuilders.

Welcome to our family. As for the in house 12V expert that would be ISX. You might stir him up with starting a thread in the 12V forum and send a PM with a link to asking for aid. Most of the guys here tend to get busy with the summer and don't seen very active. So give them a friendly poke and I'm sure you can get some help.

Sound like a white knuckle of a trip. :rolleyes:As for the 1 ton the only thing it will do is aid in stability a bit but you'll still experience the wind pushing and pulling. That because of the pure size of the profile. As for the pulling power or transmission that won't change. That was another reason why I chose the manual transmission and a exhaust brake. I knew the purpose of the truck was going to be pulling heavy and auto are just not design for it out of the box.This is one of the few reason I did not opt for a 5th wheel. Because of the overly large profile and typically heavier RV. Question, What is your over length and height Hex? So far I've not recorded any fuel mileage below 13 MPG ever in all 217K miles of the truck life.I don't think so much the truck is to blame it the profile and weight of the RV.

If you made it that far you should be fine...

So it doesn't get lost in the future I added Rogan's write ip to the article database... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/31-exterior/433-clearance-lights-cab-light-install

I'm beyond 200K... If I remember right its 217K miles.

Here is the small list of Bosch Rebuilders with a Bosch 815 test stand in house. Very expensive machine... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders

Ah... No. First I got to have the woman. Haven't found her yet. Like the old saying... "What do you call a pretty woman in Riggins, ID?" (Scroll down for answer) Answer: Tourist.

Optimal is to have ZERO AC noise at all. But you got to remember the logic chips in the computers don't like AC noise. I guesstimate roughly 0.1 AC volts to be excessive for the system. Like I said optimally you want ZERO AC voltage. Typical Alternators I've tested run about 0.01 to 0.03 VAC. WOT will not hurt it at all with a empty truck. It's actually a good thing to get the engine nice and hot now and then to burn the carbon off the injectors and clean up the cylinders. Carbon starts to burn at 1,000*F so getting 1,100*F EGT's will clean up the nozzles and keep it running good. Not to mention at WOT or very heavy throttle you maximize the VP44 injection pressures and blow any carbon out of the nozzles as well. You should aim for the lowest pressure at 14 PSI this way to keep the VP44 cooled. As for the cranking test... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA

Right on you two... :thumbup2:As for the overhead lie-o-meter or the overhead idiot... Now you know why it named that...:lol:I've done similar runs with my truck spent the night on the mountain and then come coasting down in the morning and the ScanGauge show like 200+ MPG but by the time I get home its back to the typical 20-22 MPG.

Please... Me, the camera man?! I don't think so...:lmao2:My woman would have to be willing to change oil on my truck.

No. Sad but true there has been only 3 forum member show up here at my place. I've only met John once down in Boise for a brief meeting down near the Boise Airport.

Ok. Lets clear this up some more. What is... [*]Crank Fuel Pressure [*]Idling fuel pressure [*]WOT fuel pressure at highway speed Give you an idea mine as of lately is... [*]9-11 PSI Crank Fuel Pressure (bouncing from the ECM modulation of power) [*]18 PSI Idling fuel pressure [*]16 PSI WOT fuel pressure at highway speed Yo need at least 14 PSI under full load to keep return flow happening for the VP44 for the cooling and lubrication of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. As for cranking pressure you can test it by pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking on it and see what the pressure is. Notes This will set a P1689 code so don't panic. Just reset the code with your code reader. The rest of the numbers are seen on the highway.

I don't see any issues with your results. 0.03 to 0.04 VAC is fine. As for the VP44 I'm curious what fuel pressure you are seeing?

As for welders I've got a little 110 VAC MIG welder that I do light weight welding. As for traction bars I would drill and bolt them on. Like others had said I would drill slowly with large bits. As for the binding of the bit I typically just hand tighten the chuck with the idea that if it binds it normally slips in the chuck. I've got a Matkita Drill that is high torque and broke 1/2" bits in it before. I would rather replace chucks than breaking my bits or my arm.