Mopar1973Man

Ok. I also going to request some interior pictures too. I'm curious of your floor plan and layout. It always gives me ideas for storage, changes, or maybe a mod to do... But I'm really curious of that over all length and maybe when you get time to get a full scale weight of that beast.Funny you happen to mention the damage done to a Ford truck being over at the RV forum the Ford truck is the most common used truck for towing RV's.

I think that is not true...Even mine show the same thing but came stock with 265's. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1281643390 Even Mom's 96 came with 235's

That thing is heavy (16,000#) and huge (40 ft)! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5993&d=1375327056 Compare to my small (31 ft) and light (7,500#). I would be careful with the gooseneck adapter. I've heard the same thing to about 5th wheel pins and hitch being destroyed. I would for sure do some research and double check everything to be sure your hitch set up is set for that much weight and leverage force. I'm curious of your overall length is hitched up.

Well... I'm not a name brand person at all. With all my offroad usage I'm typically around 30K miles a set of tires. I've tried Big O Tires, Cooper, Voma, HiFly, etc. Cooper STT's - I like them for a good offroad and snow traction good tire but way too heavy also there is roughly a 2 MPG loss from running them. Toyo is going to be roughly the same because they are both so close to the same design. Big O Tires - where really good years ago till they change the rubber compound and the tread pattern then they went down hill. Voma - was a trailer ST tire that was a Load Range G tire very good design very stout tire held up to just about everything I could toss at it but the tread pattern was only street tire so snow and mud traction was poor. But a very light weight tire very good MPG numbers! Hifly - that I've got on now I really like they are a nice AT tire with street manners. Still a very light weight tire and has little to no effect on MPG's but haven't had a shot at snow yet. Winter is coming. But so far for all the firewood hauling and trailer towing they done awesome even with the exhaust brake on steep dirt grades.

Yea... Mopar1973Man -><-AH64ID... I'm VP44 lover... I've got two guys up here with 6.7L Cummins now. One is a insulation business and the other is a outfitter. Both owners are going through the gutting the DPF and blocking the EGR. Funny both had no problems getting the stuff to do it being all the EPA crack downs. But so far I've got little nothing to report about the 6.7L series as of yet. Just a lot of stuff to yank off the EGR cooler is a PITA to pull off from what I've been told. I got to admit the VP44 series is get older and hard to find a good condition truck and eventually it too will fade away. My biggest thing is I've seen so many CR engine up in central Idaho ruined by failed injectors where they are blowing oil out the crankcase vent and barely will run any more. What even worse is most of them are stock trucks without any mods.

There is a lot of ranches I've worked on up here in Idaho that are still without power. That being said go up and spent the night at one of them in a old cabin and wood fire stove and get up to minus weather and foot of fresh snow on the truck. No way to plug in but cycle the grid heaters twice and light it up. Let the high idle kick in and no time the glass is thawing out.

Ultimately plugging in is the best because now your already at 110-120*F of coolant temp from the start. But out here in Idaho the current bushes don't survive the bit cold so it tough to plug in a truck to keep a block heater going if there isn't any power. That's the stop gap that the high idle fills in. Kind of like easy to plug in at home but go to work and leave the truck parked for several hours unplugged in the cold then the high idle will cover that void. I guess it comes down to getting the block up to temp any way you can. If you can even purchase a coolant heater that is diesel powered so you never worry again. (Going over board now!)

I typically test cooling systems cold at about 16-18 PSI and look for wet spots to form. Like on Mom's 96 Dodge the intake manifold gasket was bad and was leaking but never dripped on the floor because the block temp would dry it up before leaving a trace. But pumped up cold and let it sit the leak should show itself within about a hour if its slow.

That's because the more virtual loading you put against the engine the more heat it creates. Idling or high idling creates the least amount of heat vs. any kind of virtual load like 3 cylinder and/or a exhaust brake.

Interesting theory...

As far as what I've seen for the starters they are interchangeable. Most of us just rebuild them ourselves and don't have to pay the big price of replacement.

I'm pretty sure I'm right at $36 without plates... That nearly a $60 dollar increase...

As you can see there is no valve in the heater core just hoses back out to the block. The only thing that controls temperature is a butterfly valve that routes air to or away from the heater core.

That's is something I can never do again is the short hair cuts. I was force as a kid for school dress code to have short hair. I hated it so bad because my hair would spike out being cut short and would require huge amounts of hair spray or hair gel to keep it glued down. Like wearing a crunchy helmet that itched all the time. So once I got to public school I vowed to never cut my hair short again. So the pony tail was down to my waist at on point till the time I got trapped under my pickup with my hair caught up in the creeper. So the pony tail was chopped off and now every thing is kept shoulder length. To this day I still hate when the barber gets just a wee bit carried away with my bangs it shows. They just spike out when my hair dries...

Basically the P0216 code is a wear code from lack of fuel pressure. The timing piston wore out and now doesn't respond to commands for advance timing. When the ECM commands for more advancement it has a certain amount of time to respond but when the VP44 doesn't hit the mark in time then POOF! P0216 code is set. Usually low pressure is main cause but all fuel lubricity is also a secondary cause that causes the wear issues. Bosch states fuel must be below 450 HFRR score to pass and US diesel fuel is typically ~520 HFRR which doesn't make the grade.

Another thing to know if you clear 200-250K miles with a 53 block most likely nothing will happen for the rest of it life. Not all 53 block where thin. But this doesn't mean you can go out on flog the crap out of it cold. Just mean be nice to it.

In cold starts I let it warm up till 100*F worth of coolant and then take off. Once I see the temp gauge up to 165*F the bottom of the normal band then I kick the pig. Warming up fully before driving is rather wasteful for fuel either using high idle or idling the engine. The only time I use high idle any more is when I'm in a hurry and need heat to get the ice of the wind shield or need to idle for extended period then I kick 6 cylinder high idle. The best man to ask is CajFlynn since he cleared 1 million miles with a 53 block.

I'm glad we kick Rough Creek Fire and its out. Don't get me wrong I like fighting fires I just hate doing in while its unseasonably hot during the Rough Creek fire it was ranging 110-115*F in Riggins and at the spike camp it was 107-110*F. Way hotter than normal for these parts. Still think the electronic site fire was nice small 6 acre burn way up on top of Cold Spring Mountain cool mornings and nice afternoons.

Dennhop pretty much got it covered I would check error codes and see what pops up.

Click the link above... They are just a poor filter and pass way too much dust and dirt. K&N - Take notice that amount of dust, dirt and oil. BHAF - Take notice there is no dust, no dirt and no oil.

Yea I know. I'll be changing plates this spring. With the old trailer I could more or less sneak by and never had a problem. But now I know I've got to upgrade plates. With RV's though is exempt and special plates are NOT required. Strange huh?...

Holy Cow... :rolleyes:First off I don't need to say anything about "for hire" to anyone other than the person I'm hauling for. Second off like my buddy that asked me to haul firewood for him was present during the haul. I'm talking like some in the area needs someone to go down and pick up a refrigerator at Home Depot, or haul firewood because their pickup is broke down, etc. As for weight I doubt I'll ever be close to 26,001 pounds and require a CDL. Being the truck is only rated for 20,000# GCWR and the trailer is rated for 7,000# GVWR. Well below Idaho CDL requirements.Now if I was hauling a huge gooseneck trailer and hauling vehicles, equipment, construction goods, etc with a trailer in excess of the GCWR 20,000# of the truck and seen by law enforcement doing every day then yes I would say I'm in trouble. But a odd job every now and then (once a month if that) I doubt I got to worry too much. In 25 years of dragging my trailers around I've never been question on who I'm hauling for or why.

Sad to hear that you ended up buying a starter. I've fixed enough of these darn things to do it blindfolded. So if you hang on to it and we meet sometime in the future I could get it straighten out some time.

Beautiful truck. I know can see where the 2nd gen body style came from. :wink:Welcome to the family.

Most likely limp mode about the ramps. If the engine can't see RPM's then the ECM is rather blind to how much fuel is given.So the crank sensor fixed the issues since the error codes are gone now.As for the starter bolts not to bad on a stock truck.