Mopar1973Man

Reposted from Idaho Turbo Diesels...

I've done clutches on 5 speeds and they are easy as pie to do by myself but I don't think I want to do a 6 speed.

Funny how most dealers know very little about flashing ECM/PCM beyond the standard updates.

Like you got federal emissions, California emissions, Canadian emissions, automatic transmission, manual transmission, SO vs. HO software, etc. I heard there is like 40 to 50 different versions of software.

Only if its reflashed with 99 software.

Good to hear...

Being the Frantz Filter filter down as tight as it does I don't see a need for the magnet really. As for the toilet paper watch out for short length rolls. Scott's here locally is getting shorter in length. So it doesn't seal properly against the base where it cuts the media for a seal.

I would force the current owner to resolve the title problems himself being he can file for lost title and not have any issues with it. I've been down this road before with a old 1971 Honda motorcycle. Needless to say it's easier for the current owner to file for lost title.

Yeah there might be more thing that hang lower but you know good old Murphy Law would find the fresh sump with a big ol' limb and yank it off the bottom of your tank as you rolling into your hunting camp.Reason I mention this because Murphy's Law managed to push a good sized dent in the floor board of my truck in the back seat floor in my first year of ownership. All I did was turn around in a field and just happen to flip a good size limb between the floor and the frame and POP! New swell in the floor board and the limb broke off and stuck in the frame.

Take care of that transmission with proper fluid and changes you should get a good long service life from it.

You can prove it to yourself by unhooking the Alternator and taking a test drive if the problem goes away you found your issue. To do this remove the alternator fuse and the field lead from the back of the alternator.

Becareful of the sump idea. If you use your truck offroad you might yank that right off the bottom of your tank. Also you might check into local laws about bottom fed tanks.

That is the one and only 2002 I've heard of a KDP failure. It was suppose to be fairly rare by 2001.

From what I learned from a write up on another site. You can run just about anything for fluid in the trans but there is a catch. The Dodge Factory fluid is a GL-4 fluid and its rated for 100k miles between changes. But if you using any GL-5 fluids it does attack the syncro's over time so as the writeup suggested was to change GL-5 fluids at 30k miles and Dodge factory fluids every 100k miles. Being I'm at 224k miles and rolling with the Cummins and never had a 5th gear nut problem with all the heavy hauling, towing, etc. I say stick to the factory fluid. We know its design for it...

Eeekkk! Change both. Coolant doesn't matter on appearance what matters is the pH level. Fresh coolant will be right close to pH of 7.0. If you want to extend coolants I highly suggest you test the coolant with pH test strips made for coolant. Once coolant degrade it starts eating everything. By the time you see the rusty color its way too late. Coolant was still nice and green in my 96 and it was still factory coolant with 112k miles. Opps... Too late it already started. Power Steering fluid does break down with heat and pressure. So over time the fluid starts to fail then parts start to wear and BOOM. Now the steering box or htdro-booster is feeding everything else debris (metal particles). Since there is no filter it doesn't take very long for the debris to wipe out a system. Any fluid that is discolor including brake fluid it broke down...

Even on my 2002 rig I got 150k miles of washboard road use. I love the sealed bearing because less to go wrong but the price of them... Wow!

You might have to consider calling around to a local trailer shop and seeing what they have for plugs and such. Like myself if I've got to do it again I would head down to BigTex factory in Nampa, ID and just pickup a new cord for a trailer. All sealed connector and cord.

Nice. That's starting to look good. Q: Did you seal the ends of the tubing where the wires come out with silicone?

Nothing right now just odd shifting but get much more than 0.1 Volts AC then damage start occuring. I'm not absolute about this but more AC noise the more damage.

Other problem is once you get into a Smarty it tunes are more power up than smoke control either. So now on the Edge Comp there is 3 sublevel that are smoke control and 2 sublevels that are powered modes. Like daily driving I'm using 5x3. Gives my all the smoke control but excellent power as well. Now once winter and icy roads come on I got to flip down to 5x2 or or lower to lag the turbo from lighting up to keep traction going. Something Smarty can't do without stopping, plugging in, flash, OPPS! Flash just messed up and ate your ECM. Now you walking home. Just a risk I don't want being I have no cell service out here and walking several mile in blowing cold (-20*F) might become very deadly. If the Edge Comp dies I just unplug and keep rolling failures are modular and can be removed my way. So I go home with only +50HP injectors.The other problem I figured out is that Smarty and un-tapped modules play by the same rules. So they can't really math out fuel tables above 20 PSI this why they are flat power wise on top. ECM table is design for stock power all Smarty and other modules do is re-write the boost table not to throw codes and only the stock table there is no room for 20 and above PSI hence the 60 HP limit. So even modules like Diablo Power Puck is the same thing playing with stock ECM tables and just modifying the stock information.The only time you can math out timing and fueling above stock tables is with a wire tap. Hence the timing curves extend well over the 20 PSI boost limit, etc. Now you can modify electronically above the 20 PSI limit by cutting or extending the pulse to the fuel solenoid which the the wire tap goes too. As you can see my choice of module goes well beyond the HP/TQ it considers everything...

Still under 0.10 AC Voltage... I would unhook the field and the alternator fuse as well... Test drive.

Reason why I never go on with the Smarty or flash programmers because of the simple reason you need to shut down, run the programmer and start back up. Doesn't work for me because I would be changing flashes way too much with winter weather.Then no-tapped boxes are limited to 60-65 HP period because you have to play by the rules of the ECM. So that is a limiting factor.So now Edge Comp, Edge Juice, Quadzilla, etc. All these boxes have a tapped setup wider range of control of fuel and timing. Then on the fly adjustments without shutting down and flashing.

Kind of got you beat to the punch... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

No diode on mine. Either use the stick into reverse and get backup lights or click the switch and step out and get backup up lights.

Did you ever have your current ones pop tested?