Mopar1973Man

5x5... Sounds crazy but the higher the levels and sublevel the earlier the timing is given so all you need to do is keep you foot off the throttle.

Typical average between 500k to 1 million miles. So have go much farther than 1 million without a rebuild. Since rebuilds are very rare and most that fail before this point are from pushing to hard so they end up doing custom building at this point. Once again rebuilding is not common place unless you planing on going big HP/TQ which requires upgrades like cams and such. But most people can do their own rebuilding its just the machine work should be done it a shop that's typically handles diesels.

Don't let your last repair hang you up too much sometimes thing just happen to fail at the same time of the failure too. So double check your work but don't let it hang you up too.

I would look at... [*]Wheel Bearing [*]Brake calipers (Make sure the caliper is binding up) [*]Brake hardware (bolts, caliper mounting, etc.) [*]Front axle u-joints I've seen over time where brake calipers bind up rub the rotor excessively and after sitting all night and cold rub and do weird things. I've had a report from anyother Dodge owner that was losing the hardware to the caliper and allowing it to rub at a weird angle.

Double check...MAX A/C, A/C, BiLevel, DEF-Floor and DEF modes are A/C used positions.Floor and Vent are without A/C. A/C system will naturally cut out during the winter because the low side switch will not allow temperatures below 32*F and hence so when the weather freezing cold the A/C is most likely disabled by the low side switch. On humid cool days the A/C will naturally dry the cab air out and reduce fogging of the windows hence why its setup the way it is.

:iagree:I would just replace the sender for a small price of $70 or so bucks. Yeah the vacuum motor is mounted under the driver side battery and usually gets rather ate up from the battery acid. As for the hard starts. If you got a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and to watch it when you first crank it up will give you a clue of a air leak issues. Because at key ON most see a quick burst of pressure with a air leak there will not be this burst. Then as you go to cranking typically 7-12 PSI is normal cranking pressure you'll most likely not see this but lower till it pushes the bubble out then jump up.Common air leaks.Crossover tube O-ringsReturn fuel banjo at the back of the head.Return fuel Tee at the back of the engine.Suction line from the tank to the lift pump. (Pressure lines will always leak outwards when pressure applied)

Way different that old school AirDog 150's... The only problem mine had was cramming the check ball back into the coil of the spring which I fixed by egg shaping the last coil. Very stable. But looking at Raptor's adjustable regulator there looks to be way too much stuff to bind up, stick, wear out. Compared to mine its just a plastic ball coated in rubber. Lots of steel on aluminum http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6101

Could you explain the differences as well? I understand its a specification but clarify the difference between them both.

A drop in cetane (2 cycle oil) helps with increasing BTU's. Possible increase in manifold temp could help with MPG's as noted between these two runs. Warmer air does improve MPG's. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8290-I-think-I-finally-caught-up-with-ISX-for-a-day-run!?p=80081#post80081 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8290-I-think-I-finally-caught-up-with-ISX-for-a-day-run!?p=80399#post80399

Something about the Raptor/AirDog pumps and the adjustable pressure regulator... I've never had a chance to see or to play with one to see if there is something else that can be done to fix it.

May I ask what you know about NAPA / Wix filters and why you not fond of them? I was half tempted to switch over to them.

Current Today MPG: 24.0 I got a second shot at repeating the same trip. The only thing that changes was weather which was much cooler than the 27.2 MPG run. I travel basically the same run again as the first time. Vitals I can give... Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 1/2 Tank of fuel (1/4 tank less fuel) High Temp Outside: 80*F (25*F colder) Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 110-115*F. (22*F to 23*F colder) Coolant Temp: 193-195*F Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 40 PSI (+3 PSI more) Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used. Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. Riggins, ID 1,800 feet approx. Going up I used 4th Gear all the way from home to McCall, ID then at select times that I could I would use 5th gear on the way down. Same with the Trip to Riggins, ID I used 5th gear selectively and return home I used 4th solely climbing back home. Repeated as closely as I could.

You need to verify which gauge is correct. Use a IR heat gun and do a couple of quick measurements with the engine off after its fully warm and see what you get.

The Good Lord above was smart in designing the planet and the rules of nature. Yeah the smoke is choking at times but there is a simple law of science that can't be broken. "Nothing can be created nor destroyed." This means if you weight out every thing on the planet you can never make more of a atom or destroy it. Pollution is that fact there is not enough wind to dilute the smoke. Another phrase told me me is "The solution to pollution is dilution." The planet will deal with the waste products by degrading them over time, or converting to another substance like CO2 to O2 in plants. But what is really stupid is creating Wilderness Areas where man is not allow to take any machinery. Guess what most of the fires are burning out of control in most Wilderness Areas. Why? Because there is no one to manage the land and harvest the dead fall. More or less the Land of No Use. From what I'm hearing they are stretched rather thin at places now...

Check this out. Things are getting a bit smoky around here. Red flag warning for Thunder storms that are coming through.

Neat trick unplug the ECT sensor and allow the sensor to trip a error code and then try clearing the codes again.

Yea... I've seen some injectors with two shims and others with one shim. Shim should always be in the body of the injector first then the spring on top of it.

Pin 3 and P11 are the ODBII port data. You need to check those two pins against ground and see if you get 2.49 and 2.51 volts from the 2 pins. If your not see the 2.49 and the 2.51 volts now you got to start unplugging devices till you gain the voltage back. The device that you unplugg and gain the CCD Bus back will be your damage device.

Oh, Come now Dorkweed you can do better than that... Where is the nice loaded truck picture? :lmao2:Seriously... Every little bit counts. I plan on head back out this fall and getting more wood and hauling home even more. I've got roughly 7 cords in the shed split and stacked and got about 7 cords still outside. I can hold about another 5 cords in the shed.

I did get a quick article put up in place for detecting the high idle software. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/436-high-idle-detecting-if-the-ecm-has-been-enabled-for-high-idle I'm going to get a video produced very soon.

Most of us 24V see a MPG drop in the winter time and then a good gain in the summer time. What I've found with the help of ISX the only difference between 12V and a 24V is the IAT sensor. On the 24V trucks as the sensor gets colder than about 100*F then the MPG's start to fall off from fueling and timing changes from the programming on the ECM. So the MPG fooler forces the ECM to thinking its a hot summers day every day. So most people report less loss of MPG's through the winter months.

I got to thank Yankneck for taking on this project and making the improvements to the design. I've been working with Yankneck closely to make this the best version of the high idle mod. Yes. I will be producing a article really soon on how to detect high idle software on your vehicle. I'll post a link to the article very soon.

I keep looking at that V8 design thinking it starting to look like a Ford where the engine is buried under a pile of other stuff. Should of stayed a I6 design...

You might find the 4x1 effects the 5x5. This is a known Edge Comp program bug. I typically run the sublevels all matching. Also remember 1-3 are defuel modes. So with sublevel 1 you only have 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost. With the RV275's you should be OK and nearly smokeless at 5x3 or 4x3.

Might work good for highway usage but I also got to figure in dirt road operation too. Slightly softer pressure tend to keeping the tires locked down better on gravel roads. Yes. I will admit I like the slightly high pressure on the highway but I bounce between dirt and pavement so often I got to split the difference.