Mopar1973Man

All 65 MPH from Riggins to Grangeville but very little traffic so I set the cruise and relaxed.As for tire pressure I need to tweak them a bit. Front: 4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 PSIRear: 3080 / 2 = 1540 / 3042 = 0.50 x 80 = 40.4 PSI (so I'm 3 PSI off...)

118 PSI / 0.433 = 272.51 Vertical feet of head.You get 0.433 PSI for every 1 foot of vertical fall you have.

Just scaled again at Primeland in Grangeville, ID with 2 passengers, 1 dog, half tank of fuel no cargo other than typical tools. Front Axle ------- 4,400# Rear Axle ------- 3,080# Gross Weight --- 7,480# Trip to Grangeville, ID and back to home. Vitals I can give... Map of travel http://goo.gl/maps/ODZLN High Temp Outside: 85*F Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 120-125*F. Coolant Temp: 193-195*F Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 14 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (400-500*F down) (550-625*F up) on average max'ed out at 800-850*F climbing 7% grade at 55 MPH for 7 miles. Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 37 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used. Total MPG --------- 23.5 MPG Total Distance ----- 121 Miles Maintenance done before trip: Fuel filter, Transfer case fluid changed, Power Steer fluid flushed, and other fluids where checked. Day isn't over yet I still got to haul back to Riggins, ID to install oxygen sensors in a Toyota truck and then head to fire meeting. So I'll post the final for the day later this evening.

Napa store roughly about $11 to $13 bucks. It will be a 30 amp relay and it will require its a 5 pin not a 4 pin relay.

Most likely low on freon. When properly charged with freon the AC will not cycle at all. The compressor will run constantly. Hook up your manifold gauges and check you pressures before changing any switches. Make sure your seeing at least 35 PSI on the low side with the compressor running. If there is less that 40 PSI the compressor will most likely not start.

Typically turbo will last a long time only if you have 2 things for them.* EGT gauge* Good oil and oil filtersIf you keep the EGT's down so you not melting the turbo and over heating the bearings as well as allowing the turbo to cool down before shutting off. Most look for about 300*F before shutting down. As for oil you don't need any fancy synthetic oils but a good name brand petroleum oil that is CI-4 or CJ-4 grade that is 15w-40 typically. Most here opt for Fleetguard oil filters. I'm switching back over to NAPA Gold filter from here on out.But Hex0rz got the article for ya...

AirDog / Raptor with the adjustable regulators are known for issues of stability. I would contact Pureflow and find out if there is a updated regulator or if you need to just replace it because of a damage regulator unit.I would like to ask if you have the Big Line Kit all the way to VP44? Is there any Banjo Bolts or stock plumbing left on the truck?Another thing to check for is air leaks at the suction lines. A way to check this is to pressurize the fuel tank by using a blow gun and a rag at the filler neck. Just give it about 1-2 PSI and have a friend crawl around looking for wet spots or wet connections. AirDog / Raptor quick connectors are known to leak air as well.

Fill er' up with a tank of premium unleaded that should clean the fuel tank out. Seriously I would consider dropping the tank and washing it out with solvent or something if its that bad.

Correct. 5x3 5 - Is the main level which happens to be the highest setting of 120 HP. 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP 3 - Is the sublevel or how fast the Edge will fuel compared to boost pressure. 1. 33% of stock fuel until 20 PSI of boost pressure 2. 50% of stock fuel until 15 PSI of boost pressure 3. 67% of stock fuel until 10 PSI of boost pressure 4. Some extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost pressure 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost pressure These setting holds true for both Edge Comp and Edge Juice products except the Juice has a different place for the sublevel. Edge Comp you hold the power switch for 2-3 seconds and then release then the sub-level will be displayed for the main level you last had set. The level bars will blink in a quick frequency. Now you can adjust the sublevel turn the power off and back on to enable the new setting.

Here is the fleetguard filter user 30,000 miles vs. fleetguard new. Then here is older picture back before I had a AirDog 150 and this was done at 15,000 miles. Fleetguard filter (AirDog 150) with about 2K miles if that. I cut it open because I wanted to know if it plugged or was it the AirDog (AirDog regulator goofed up!)

You might do a power steering fluid flush and then tighten the sector adjustment on the steering box to take up a bit of slop. But it depends on how wore out the box is too. If you decide to adjust the sector adjustment I would do it a little at a time 1/4 turn and test drive.

I figured now would be a good time to change the fuel filters being its double the typical mileage. Stock is suppose to change out at 15,000 miles or every other oil change. Here is what the stock filter and the Donaldson P551315 looks like after 30,000 miles of fuel pumped through them.I must be getting clean fuel because I was totally expecting after 30,000 miles I would be look at a AirDog filter that was black and the stock filter about the color I see now. But I was shocked to see both rather light colored. Now I know to just use my fuel pressure gauge and look for the fuel pressure drop. Because both of these could of gone farther yet and still in good condition.

Well even the last 3 days have been 16-17 MPG because of trailer hauling. Even today with doing service work to the truck and quick blast up the highway and back (2 miles) its barely 15 MPG. But tomorrow I'll most likely be heading to Grangeville, ID for sprinkler parts. Nice long haul up 7% grade for 7 miles.

Remember this is only a day trip 106 miles one time hitter. It was day after day tank total out and pump fill type. I'm hoping to do it again the same type of trip and hit those kind of numbers again. If can then I consider it real but if its just a single high spot hitter well... The RV275 injectors from CajFlynn were OK but the pop pressure and nozzles wasn't correct nor a clean spray. The +50HP injectors are much cleaner spray pattern. Then after my last big haul 430 miles to Heyburn Park with the RV the truck has changed in performance. I think there might of been carbon build up or something? (Can't explain it) Ever since then the MPG's have been slightly strong across the board. Canopy/Topper was on. I've got little to no reason to pull it off now being I've got the BigTex 70TV I can hitch up to haul big stuff now. Winter is coming we'll see what happens with these new +50 Injectors through the winter now. You got to remember when I got the +50HP injectors they where flow matched and pop tested to match as well across all 6 injectors. Not just 6 injectors pull off the shelf and tossed in a box and shipped. Even worse to expect good anything from 400k mile RV275 injectors not even the right pop pressure at the end 260 bar?! When it should be 310 bar. They were fun but now seeing the difference between OK and done right is way different even in power.

No. This is totally separate relay added to delay the lift pump from starting.

I tend to agree the clutch is slipping.

All tapped for the Edge Comp on 5x3 and +50HP Vulcan Performance Injectors just a bit haze to light smoke. But When I'm capable of... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8290-I-think-I-finally-caught-up-with-ISX-for-a-day-run! I'm not going to argue much... As why I suggest the Stealth plate more is because I've seen the document where they say tap the wire (if I'm not mistaken the one closest to the engine) and found a few people with pumps where the other wire was correct. Weird but it did happen. The Stealth plate just keeps from these weird things from happening and guessin' .

I would suggest the Stealth Plate then you don't have to worry about cutting up the wiring try to tap the right wire. Weather tight tap every time and no guessing which wire.

Vitals I can give... Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 3/4 Tank of fuel High Temp Outside: 105*F Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 132-138*F. Coolant Temp: 193-195*F Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 37 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used. Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. Riggins, ID 1,800 feet approx. Going up I used 4th Gear all the way from home to McCall, ID then at select times that I could I would use 5th gear on the way down. Same with the Trip to Riggins, ID I used 5th gear selectively and return home I used 4th solely climbing back home. Last two days I've been dragging around the trailer and got 17.5 MPG yesterday with 200# (GCW 9,460#) of construction supplies and today got 16.8 MPG dragging the trailer with my ATV (~900#) in the back of the trailer. Still using my same tricks.

Not using 5th gear up hills any longer. Using 4th gear 1:1 direct drive (2,100 RPM). So like my entire trip to McCall is mostly uphill I see roughly 150*F EGT drop in 4th compared to 5th so the MPG's are higher as well. So if the EGT's are down you know your burning less fuel. Even up hill I'm average at 550-600*F compared 700-800*F in 5th.That and the fact IAT was close to actual fooled temp at 135*F for the day. (Fooled temp is 143*F) Boost remained below 5 PSI till I hit the 7% grade of course it rose too but not much above 10-12 PSI.Nothing else changed. As for the trailer with the large tailgate I did find the optimal 20-25 MPG range too is right at 40-45 MPH now the wind drag is reduced enough to gain the MPG's. My RV is about the same I can start touch high teens at 40-45 MPH.

Well back to normal dayz again. :rolleyes:Hitched up the BigTex 70TV and hauled to Ontario, OR for shopping and tried all my tricks to improve the MPG towing but its kind of hard with a 5 foot tall tailgate that is screened but its still a good wind drag. I managed 17.5 MPG round trip to Ontario, OR and back home again. I even stopped and scaled on the way home...Truck Front Axle ............ 4,080 pounds (Normal Curb 4,440)Truck Rear Axle ............. 3,340 pounds (Normal Curb 2,860)Trailer Axles .................. 2,040 Pounds (Dry Weight 1,800)Gross Weight ................. 9,460 Pounds

Always knew the VP44 was capable of so much more but people always beat down the VP44 saying tops for fuel only is typically 600 HP. Now the new line has been drawn in the sand.

You guys are getting to me about to the point of pulling the under belly off my RV and re-working it so I could use it nearly year round. Right now I've got really poor insulated sewage tanks and fresh water tanks. I'm sure with a bit a time and effort I could upgrade my own RV to meet Idaho's mild winter conditions say like 25-35*F realm without much help. Right now at 31*F I can freeze the bathroom right up tight. I've done it once already. :banghead:

Unless the scan tool is reporting PSIa then 14.3 PSIa is normal atmosphere pressure.

Another RV forum I moderator over at... http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php Winter camping article http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=443:wintercamtips&catid=14:newcomers-need-to-know&Itemid=45