Mopar1973Man

So very true. The only other way to warm up a truck quickly is with high idle and exhaust brake. This way you create a virtual load for the engine and create heat. Don't want to do that either that a wonderful way of destroying the alternator being its only rated for 140 Amp tops and you dropping a excessive load of 195 Amps on for 2-5 minutes most likely overheat the alternator in a quick hurry.

Radio mostly. But the steering wheel controls went back over to the Central timer to be sent out on the CCD network. So its the central timer and the radio as a communication pair. Still a easy way is to measure the CCD voltage and see if there is 2.49 and 2.51 volts in reference to ground. If not start unplugging all the accessories one at a time looking for the voltage to return. The one that allows it to return is the failed unit. You only need PCM, ECM and instrument cluster to work.

I suggest you practice with the ABS computer plugs first being they are right in front of you and easy to look at. But Bill is right just slight the red tab over and then squeeze the release and lightly tug it will slide right off.

Only to a point. I would imagine if the intake air was heated to 120-140*F constantly it should improve warm up times. That's the way it was back in the 1970's muscle car they had a thermostatic vacuum valve that controlled heated air for the air cleaner to air in warm up times. But some where in the 80's that all went away and Cold Air Intake was the rave and electronic fuel injection came out. EGR isn't a good thing in any sense. All you doing is fill the manifold with CO2 and heat and not making a burnable mixture for the next cycle. But heated air would help out I don't see any reason why it won't.

You might try talking to my guy that does my saw work. http://www.yellowpages.com/ontario-or/mip/drapers-outdoor-power-equipment-4199353

40 warm up cycles to self erase codes. I would personally just erase the codes with a OBDII code reader and take it for a test drive and then check again to see if the codes returned. If so then you'll have to deal with the codes.

It's a different life style that's for sure. Just give your self time to adjust and don't let it get you down. Like for me moving from Los Angeles, California to New Meadows, Idaho was a huge step. Now today I couldn't imagine moving to California or even Boise, Idaho to live. Just way beyond me.

Correct. The Radio is on the CCD Network because of the remote steering wheel controls in the upper models. So the remote steering wheel controls sent there data over the CCD Network to the radio to turn volume up and down or tune to your favorite station.

Ummm... Product will be out very very soon... http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/high-idle-switch-98-02-cubby.htm

I'm all over the place. I'm always working on something somewhere. But welcome to our little family here.

Everyone is just one big happy family. There is times when some family member don't see eye to eye but we all get along. So welcome to the our little family of Cummins diesel nuts.

Not much for comfort in that little engine room. I'm sure it gets rather hot in there during the summer...

Edge Comp doesn't seem to have that issue. Mine is quite old now and survived many jump starts on other vehicles. I've never had a dead battery on my truck yet to this day.

That's way too hot... Ekk! I would check the radiator first thing. Really common to see the face of it all packed with grime and oil.

Any where she says to stop... Congrads to the both of you.

Not a bad deal on the truck at all. As for the hot rod that really nice...

I love the kit and its just what you need but for some reason I don't see the price being right. I'm sure you could build your own bracket, buy a filter base from NAPA for much less and spin on a filter for about $100 total. Even all the fitting and hose would be cheap from Eric at Vulcan performance. I just can't see $350 worth of parts there.

Jacobs brake on mine but it requires to be bolts directly to the stock Hx35 turbo.

One of these days I need to crawl under mine and get the same thing done. Got the seal kit sitting here...

Get ahold of Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) and he'll take a look into repairing your Quadzilla for ya.

ABS codes should be read with a DRBIII tool. Now since you rear sensor seems to be working and no complaints of the speedometer being dead. Then I'd would be looking at the front axle sensors. In this case you are stuck replacing both sensors as a pair. (Left & Right) you can't replace 1 sensor because the other old sensor will not match with the other front new sensor.

Check your shocks and front end components like the track bar and such. It seems more common with vehicle with larger than stock tires.

That's also why you never wash a filter too because you just placed the dirt on the wrong side. Your right I've never seen a filter minder fail either and a wonderful tool to boot.

There has been tales of the stock air box being restrictive. That where the whole idea of swiss cheese the box or the stinky slinky came from. Was to improve the air flow to the stock box. As for the filter pulling down the minder it possible to have plugged the filter up already and there is no way to blow out the debris or dust. This is a problem because the more and more you keep trying to get flow through the filter the worse and worse the filter will get at filtering out the fine dust and then you doing damage to the truck. Hence why I stick to paper elements like stock panels or BHAF because if there is any issues just chuck it in the trash and install a fresh filter and not worry.So in your case I would say time to toss that AMSOil filter out and now install a regular paper filter and save your money.

My Cummins low pressure switch is set for 3 PSI. Way too low for a low pressure light it should be set for about 10-12 PSI but never seen one. Now as for fuel pressure gauge you best to keep your pressure between 14-20 PSI fo optimal longevity of the VP44 pump.