Mopar1973Man

Nope sorry its not me... :whistle:I've got irrigation dam about a 1/4 to 1/3 mile behind the house that starts out 8" ling and necks down to 4" then at the top of the ridge it necks down to 1" by the time it hits the bottom of the hill at the house I've got 116-118 PSI of pressure. So that's what powers my hydro electric generator is the extra pressure which produces a extra 200-250w worth of power.

Cruise set at 55 MPH all day long except for other speed zones for city speed limits in McCall and Riggins is 25 MPH. Here is my route of travel. http://goo.gl/maps/7U93D Now there is a few extra miles added because of forgetting stuff in McCall and having to turn back around and go back for one last part I was looking for. I wish I could it day in and day out but like tomorrow I'm hitching up the BigTex 70TV and heading for Ontario for some stuff from Home Depot that total for the tank will be trashed.

Well here you go... 27.2 MPG and 106 Mile trip from home to McCall, ID then back home the into Riggins, ID and then back home. All up and down hills. But I finally caught up to ISX's 27 MPG... :woot:Sorry for the blurry pic but I turn off my camera flash to get the photos without the flash blocking out the screens.

Thank you 98whitelightnin! I called the local Cummins shop in Boise, ID and he's selling them for a whole $13.37 for the seal kit. Man that's Cheap! So I told him to mail it out. So in a few days I'll be able to do a write up on vacuum pump.

As for the Edge Juice just remember to use a needle valve before the fuel pressure sender. Out in in Idaho Red and on-road diesel are both the same. Just one has dye the other doesn't. I use 2 cycle oil every tank 128:1 ratio or 1 oz for every gallon. A: I would skip the Edge Juice fall back to Edge Comp then do separate gauges. This will ultimately cost about the same but then when something fails then you only got to replace the one part not a entire expensive unit. B: MPG? Well that easy if you follow along with my you can reach 20's easy. As for VP44 failures all you got to do is read a article... This will explain the 4 thing the VP44 requires for long life I'm going to cross 200K on this pump really soon. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements As for AirDog setup you can shim the spring for more fuel pressure. I just used a few washers with proper OD and ID measurements. As for Denver emissions the Edge Comp will be the best route. Because you can unplug the entire unit and make it disappear in under a 2 minutes. The only thing they might find is your tap point on the pump be it a stealth plate or a crummy scotch lock.

When you get the compressor removed check for Black Death in the lines if so make sure to flush all the debris from the system before even installing the new compressor. The A/C line flush is pretty expensive. Make sure to replace the accumulator and the orifice tube as well.

Little more on the CCD network. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Same here.

Double check the condition of the Edge EZ. I've seen where you open up the ends of the Edge EZ and see the circuit board is all corroded from water entering the case.

Guessin' http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/2002-dodge-ram%20pickup%202500%203500--instrument-general/15-863--354197/

Another good reason to keep my 2 truck I've got now...

Mechanical fan will always pull more CFM's of air than any electric fan. As for mechanical fan they do not place a load on the engine until locked. Even with electric fans you now placing the fan load on the alternator which placed it load back on the belt anyways. So how was converting from mechanical to electric any improvement? Just to make you think a bit.

When I have pets or children in the truck I normal always shut down down the engine. Just too risky...

Limited slip. Yeah its time for the fluid to be changed and new modifier put back in. Boy I'm glad I've got standard differential in my truck no clutches to change and no friction modifier to put in.

Alpine Fir, White Fir, Red Fir, Lodge Pole, Yellow Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Spruce, etc. All soft wood... I burn roughly 10-12 cords a winter for 2 houses and 1 shop stove.

Like my old 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome was a good RV for cold weather and held up really good to cold weather. Easy to keep from freezing and very little problems. My 2000 Jayco Eagle currently is horrid for winter weather. As soon as the temp falls near freezing the bathroom water lines start to freeze because the lines run outside the house and back up through the bathroom floor so there is about 12 feet of line that freezes really easy. So the only way I can winter camp is dry camping. All water has to be brought into the RV in 5 gallon jugs.

2001 trucks require a OBDII error code reader to get the codes. I would buy or barrow a OBDII code reader and just get the codes. Most all auto part stores with read your codes for free.

I'm glad you got that checked and enjoy your trip...

Usually the tag is on the differential showing the ratio or looking the glove box for the tag showing the gear ratio and on some trucks the tag could be under the hood to. I would pop the differential cover off and look and see what's happening. You might want to have a camera ready to pop a picture or two.

Right on. Congrads for 3rd place for a first time try.

I'm a hydraulic splitter myself I use a 20 ton splitter. I stopped till the summer heat tones down a bit. Because I love to split firewood its just I hate to set up and and shut down with in a few hours. I can do it for the whole afternoon if the weather is cool enough. But we have been seeing 95-105*F temps here at the house all summer. Ughhh... Just to darn hot to do it right now.

Sounds like the gauge itself is bad if the pyrometer probe and wiring is good.

No spare parts here.I just do my monthly inspections of the vehicle looking for damage, leaks, etc. Nothing more. I don't change sensors unless failed or throwing a error code. ECM replacement is needed if clean power is kept to it and it should last a very long time. Like CajFlynn made over 1 million miles on his ECM before replacement. Injection pump (VP44) I don't bother with it either as long as the historic MPG and performance is still good no need to mess with it.

Ok. So its different that the older starter I dealt with. So now the big trick is making sure the brush plate is in right and the right brushes in the right holder.

Wow! Even my un-local injection shop 120 miles away in Lewiston, ID will pop test for free but charge $15 a injector for re-tune which is $90 for all 6 again. But the initial pop test is free though. I would do a bit of calling around and see what you turn up. What hang me up is everytime you put the aftermarket injectors back in the problem is back but the stock injectors are fine. Now as you give more throttle the injection pump creates more pressure increasing the amount of fuel sprayed. So if there was injection pump issue I would think you would see high end power loss not idle issues. As for crossover tube if they are damaged then it wouldn't matter what set of injectors it would do it with both. So that still leads me back to the injectors. Just thinking out loud.