Mopar1973Man

Haven't had a Lab before. German Shepherds and Doberman Pinchers mostly.

http://www.rumormillnews.com/cgi-bin/forum.cgi?read=293560 http://vaticproject.blogspot.com/2013/12/serious-message-to-police-by-courageous.html http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOsN-P5abVg

As for the IAT sensor that data is unknown. Like I know after testing the IAT and ECT sensors on the Cummins they are the same. But still haven't done the IAT on the gasser yet. So I don't know if the same thermistor was used or not. So this will require testing and a live data tool. How I did it with the Cummins is unplugged the IAT and kept stuffing resistors in till I made the scale list in the article page. But you'll get you answers from a live data tool that reports the IAT temp for said resistance. As for the absolute high spot of each engine I not sure of that either it will take time and study work to find how each engine like IAT temps at what level. But as for the 96 Dodge Ram 1500 it shown to like above 100*F intake air temp for MPG's.

Even my link shows that it was destroyed. I kind of doubt it yet...

Made it 0*F last night in New Meadows...You know its cold when the sliding glass door freezes shut. (double pane)

14-20 is optimal. The over flow valve is open and the cooling and lubing of the VP44 is optimal. 10-14 is marginal. This is the period of time that the overflow valve is starting to close. <=10 is damaging. By the time the pressure falls to 10 PSI the overflow valve is completely close and zero return fuel is given so now there is no extra cooling for the PSG and no extra lubrication for the part internal parts. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve

Like MoparMom... If it wasn't for the nose bleed she would been on the same track.

Like the study work I'm doing now with the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and my friends Chevy 6.0L V8 truck. We are both finding that extremely low IAT temp will reduce MPG's. Now with temperature near zero this morning he's getting roughly +10-15*F and even his ScanGauge is follow the rule of thumb "For every 10* drop from 140*F you'll lose about 1 MPG" it still holds true even on his truck for the time being. I know even mine is fighting to get near 12-14 MPG now for the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the IAT's continue to fall...Cold Air isn't all that its cracked up to be... Maybe for racing but not for the daily driver. Back in the 60-70's we use to have exhaust manifold risers that went to the air filter to pre-heat the air and help vaporize the fuel on a cold day. Now all the modern vehicles are all about Cold Air Intakes and no longer about making the fuel efficient to burn. In both diesel and gasoline engines the whole trick is to convert the liquid fuel to vapor so it can be burned. Either engine can't burn liquid fuel properly or effectively...

Sorry to say for optimal performance you going to replace the Drawstraw like it or not. If you keep the factory sender you'll notice much wider pressure swings than if you do it right and change all plumbing from tank to VP44 to 1/2" lines. As for the pump regulator I've got the old school spring and check ball. The only thing I got to do once in awhile is pull it out and set it back up. The ball tends to work its way into the spring coils. As for the adjustable regulator the common problem there is that pressure falls a bit people adjust up again. Then next morning its too high now adjust down. Up.. Down.. Up... Down... The cycle continues. The problem is the mess of springs and sliding plunger that is suppose to control the pressure but it only takes a small bit of debris to hang it up. Adjustable http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3372&d=1325366951 AirDog Check ball and Spring.

Not to :hijack:This is one of the the reason I don't exactly like the Bank module and the Edge Juice. Being both modules work the same way but get different inputs to do the same output. But the point is this one module is tapping in all over the engine getting input for all its output stacked or coupling to sensors. In any rate is it possible the Bank module is screwing up the ECM feeds? Is there possibility that the Bank module has finally having issues and its pulling down the ECM inputs? (Either directly or through the CANBUS if used?)

No you won't. There is more issues with the adjustable pressure regulator than the old school check ball and spring.

As long as they are working dogs and not lap dogs I'm happy. As for you your little addition to the family I'm hope your ready for the house breaking...

Not me... I'll continue to look for the standard chicken egg in the store. As for creating a virtual egg or egg substitutes... I'm not buying them... Not happening. That's why health of every human around the world is substandard. Mostly because quacks like this think they are doing us favors in making a imitation egg. Think about "Trans Fats". Its the fat that scientist created and its a fat that your body can't process hence why its a bad fat. ...and we wonder why so many people need ObamaCare???

Very nice setup... I was thinking about a drive pressure gauge when I get a few bucks extra put away for toyz on the truck.

When the WTS light doesn't light up the ECM did NOT boot up. Being the WTS light is not lighting showing there is a problem maybe. All other ECM function typically will be dead as well. (Lift pump, VP44, etc.)

Birthdate: October 26, 1970 The 1973 comes from the 1973 Dodge Charger SE which happen to be my first vehicle...

Bingo... Most of the circuits in these truck have constant power +12V from PDC but the controls tend to switch the grounds off and on. So with the panel lighting and the controls there grounds should got to either a center of the dash ground lug or over to the driver side kick panel. I know the image is a bit small but you get the idea...

Now sampling the weather in the teens I'm not liking it at all. We you do get cold it seems to take longer and longer to warm up. Yes... I'm in my forties too... Thermometer is starting to fall now...

To me winter means I can finally shut everything down and mostly stay at home. Being everything around here requires long distances to do anything. Most people around here are flexible and don't mind putting off for a few days because of weather and road conditions.

All sensors share that same signal ground including cam and crank sensors too.

Just getting the fire built down in the shop this morning... But I'll take a peek at it.

Ran my truck into town about 3 days ago to get a full tank of fuel. I always keep both truck in service just in case things go wrong very fast. Right now the 96 Dodge is the primary but if it fails I still got the 02 Dodge to back it up.

Great I'll pop it off and take a peek and see what happening...

Ok... Later on today I'll get a fire lit in the shop and take a peek at the CAD unit. Is there any gasket on the unit or can I just silicone the unit back?

I know this isn't exactly diesel related but on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the CAD axle tends to hang up once engaged. Then when you you try to disengage the 4WD the lever goes to 2WD just fine and the transfer case releases. But the CAD unit holds the axle for extended period like maybe another mile or so. POP! Violently releases you can feel it in the entire truck. I'm not liking the CAD units at all I rather have a solid axle personally way less to go wrong.