Mopar1973Man

Ummm... You could do the valves yourself with basic hand tools in about 1 hour. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/121-valve-lash-adjustment May I ask why are you having the turbo cleaned? If your using a good quality air filter and not a washable you'll never have to touch or clean the turbo. Go to NAPA pick up a thermostat. Then without draining the coolant just remove the 3 bolts on the thermostat cover. It will spill a bit most of maybe a quart or two. Might want to do this outside. Then pull the old thermostat out and put the new one in. Replace the cover and 3 bolts. Then top off with coolant your done. Yeah... Now I would let a shop take that on.

Wow! I wish... I swept ours out in October because it was nearly plugged tight. I pulled out enough to fill a 5 gallon bucket half way. Then again it started to plug up around January when it was darn cold. Again another half of a 5 gallon bucket. I typically light the fire run the pyrometer up to 1,200 to 1,400*F and let it sit and cook for a bit. Then turn it down to day running and it stews at 600-800*F most of the day. My bad spot is the top 2 foot of chimney where its the coldest and doesn't hold enough heat to keep it clean.

15w-40 engine oils with temps as low as -20*F no issues.

Also makes a difference in how you take care of your lead acid batteries. Being I typically get 10-12 years from a battery.

I learned that last fall. Ugh. Plastic injected u-joints on a 2005 Dodge Ram (Cummins). I would have to say it is easier.

Interesting...

Seems the bad word filter caught you. LOL. I'm sure you put J A P S for a word right?

Huge find... Another thing you don't want to do is attempt to jump start the truck. If the batteries are weak or dead just replace them. So many nice gems turn into complete turds because turning to wake it from its slumber and pissing it off. I would do like Disel4life said bring a flatbed in and have it towed off and everything check and inspected properly. Oh 92700km is 57601.11 miles. It's not even broke in yet.

Problem is with nozzles alone you can't pick and choose to get the proper flow match. Then looking at spray patterns you stuck too. Then you also have to take the injectors into a shop and have them pop tested. I would opt for a full injector that the set has been flow match and pop tested within tight specs. I tend to stay away from Edge Juice products too many bells and whistles to screw up a good tune. The alarms and limits will change the fuel maps if setup wrong. I typically suggest to people to turn them all OFF don't use them. What they miss is they set the limit to low and the defuel start even earlier. So like most I see set the EGT at 1,100 and it start to defuel at 900 and working its way to max defuel at 1,100 so the truck seems really doggy and tune is off. Edge Comp is exactly this just box. No bells and no whistles.

Yes... It's a completed product now. Testing is all over for version 2 high idle kits.

Not holding out just been busy... Between working with Ed and fire fighter classes...

Also kind of common with larger tires to put stress on the transfer case making it harder to shift in and out. I find rocking the truck forward and backward helps a bunch.

I never really liked the newer Ford products. As for Chevy I was willing to try a Chevy Diesel at the time in 2002. Since my Dad worked for GM in Van Nuys, CA I figured I could get a pretty good discount on a truck. Well I was mistaken... The best a GM dealer was willing to do at the time was drop about $2,000 off the price of a Duramax at about $53,000 total. I went back down the street to the Dodge dealer and bought the 2002 Dodge 2500 for $32,000... Just the shear price was enough to make me drop a GM. I'm still ahead of the game with my 12 year old Cummins...

I would like to thank CTcummins24V for the quick write up and I've moved into the article database for others. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/445-engine-oil-pressure-sensor

I had a close call myself with the 1996 Dodge. I was moving truck around the yard hop in the 96 pull it out of the garage quickly slammed it in PARK and did quite get she started creeping off. Ran back and caught it. Usually when your in a hurry you do stupid things. Like with my truck hitched up and hauling firewood I'll take the time to chock all the wheels before leaving the truck parked on a slope.

Ummm... *1972 Dodge Power Wagon *1973 Dodge Charger SE *1976 Dodge Power Wagon *1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome *1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Mopar, Dodge and Chrysler products are in my blood... * notes vehicle sold no longer owned.

Even on my ATV I did 1 size larger than the ATV. Typically they sell 48" blade for it I took the 56" blade to keep the snow from rolling back into the front tire on full tilt. My neighbors blade is 48" and his ATV will lose traction on that front wheel from the snow coming around that side of the blade. Like Mine bigging just that bit wider on full tilt it gives just that extra few more inches and keeps the snow away from the front tires. I know this is ATV vs. Truck but gives you a idea...

Kind of like this thread... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/950162-new-cummins-need-info-please.html Shainer said... I have a problem with that lazy answer as you'll see I still did what I could to help. I know for a fact that all forum software are weak in the search engine (internally). Even here. I could install Sphinx search engine but it would require a different server for us. But still in all I will not tell a person to search first. Even with all my work on the phone there is never two cases exactly the same. I've had times on the phone and got confident I had the answer sounds like a classic case of "X" only to find out it don't work. Now I'm scratching my head. Thinking up the answer to the unheard of case "Y"...

Just a quick note remember oil pressure sensors are not absolutely correct.

Time to hook up the clutch safety now right???

Look like you going to rebuild you front axle. (Seal and bearing kit)

Mine took 2 shims being they are thinner than most washers. All based on how thick they are. More or less a test and try method.

Lets say I've crossed 1,400 a few times on fire calls and passing vehicles on the highway. But its only for max of about 10 seconds. 1,200 is safe to run. It just once past that no one knows how long any thing will last. One pyrometer gauge might be + few degrees and the other might be - a few degrees so who is to say what is safe? Like I said pistons are aluminum and they are cooled by engine oil so how long... Don't know. But as long as your below aluminum melt point you should be safe. I typically float 550-600*F at 55-60 MPH at about 2-3 PSI of boost. Typically can reach the 20's for MPG's...

I bet that if you could wire that drill in to the 12V and mount it somewhere it would work better than AirDog. With all the people I talk to on the phone AirDog quality is at a all time low really.

Aluminium melts at 1,220*F (660*C). There is cooled oil sprayed at the pistons from underneath. So extended 1,200*F is safe all day long. But you'll notice the coolant temps will be elevated still normal but higher than typical. 1,000-1,100*F you will see less increase in coolant temperatures typically float about 193-197*F. Optimal for 20+ MPGs you want to get below 600*F and 5 PSI of boost.