Mopar1973Man

Check the head light fuse? Located in the PDC...

More than likely the debris from the first pump failure is plugging up a passage in either the gear box or hydro-booster and causing a flow issues which is most likely the groaning of the bypass valve internally.

Kind of hard to get a deer whistle to work when you have big ol' bug crammed in it. Or maybe filled up with mud.

According to Bosch #50 is sealed unit. This why there is no listing of the rotor inside or anything else. Now we have... This is a thick steel plate with a plastic backing. So explain this pic... Gotta be rubber or something brittle?

Now that's a Deer Strainer!

Yea... They thought it was the end cap off the distributor part. Here is what's in the distributor head. Here is the part they think is the diaphragm. That thing is a steel plate with a plastic back with a rim to hold the o-ring in. The first thought that comes to mind with diaphragm is a rubber barrier that flexes. This is a steel plate very very solid steel and its not going to CRACK. I would of done it sooner if I didn't have to pay 300-400 for a core pump! Once again give Diesel4Life a big round of applause for sending me that pump to tear apart.

My solution is re-consider your lighting on the truck so you lighting up a wider span of roadway. Hence why both of my trucks have the 100w aircraft lighting. You can spot deer eyes with a bright light if your paying attention. The thing about sliding 4WD or 2WD if it was going to slide its not going to matter. But as for braking forces yes 4WD does seem to prevent sliding for starting but if it does 4WD or 2WD isn't going to change much. But this depends slide direction. Like in your case with being sideways 4WD won't do anything for it. But as for rolling straight the braking action is spread out better. My rule of thumb is if the road is a primary highway and is ploughed I'm not going to worry about 4WD much. Unploughed secondary roads I'm going to use the 4WD more so. But I'm glad wife and you are OK. I tend to go out and play in large parking lots and see what both 4WD and 2WD can do and not do.

Funny... Over on CumminsForum.com they are still trying to figure out where this diaphragm is located at? http://www3.jasperengines.com/blog/2011/12/02/jasper-remanufactures-vp44-diesel-injection-pumps/ A thicker, metal-plated diaphragm is installed to help eliminate low fuel pressure problems within the pump. Perhaps the most common failure on the VP44 is the “216″ code (fuel timing error), and the runnability problems that go with it, due to supply pump issues and low fuel pressure to the injection pump. “The pump diaphragm can crack inside the pump, causing excessive wear on the housing,” says Abrams. “JASPER installs the later-style diaphragm, which is metal-plated and is thicker than the original, to help eliminate these types of failures.” Abrams added, “On each VP44 replacement, JASPER recommends that the fuel supply pump is also replaced in the vehicle to help eliminate that failure.” Funny here is a Bosch reseal kit... No diaphragm in the kit? Hmmm....

I tend to sit back and laugh about it. It seem like all the southern states go into panic mode because no one has a plow truck, people never seen snow, don't know how to drive in it.

Or the simplest yet... Hook it right next to the MAP sensor.

The article page has been updated as well now to show the parts within the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view

Everyone is correct that is the OBDII port. You might pull the 3 screws on the bottom edge of the knee bolster and see if the wires are just zip tied to the ODBII port.

I don't know him...

Picture of the plug would help.

...and who is this guy?

Current Idaho weather as of 12:02pm 1/29/14...

Check out this. http://www.myfoxny.com/Story/24574965/chick-fil-a-feeds-stranded-drivers

And now...

I think the biggest problem is people allow the main battery cables rot internally and start to create these issues. I'm one of the very few people that have factory cable in excellent condition on both trucks. Even my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (46RE Trans) should have this lock and unlock issues. Nope... Not happening here. I check the alternator output during my month inspections and re-oil the cables every oil change or inspection which ever occurs first. Like today I gotta pull the 96 down to the shop and check brakes and axles over mostly but while I'm got it in the shop might as well do the full inspection.

Typically the key lock has a reed switch in the back of it so as the key is inserted the reed switch is closed so the door dinger functions. More than likely the key tip is wearing down or the reed switch is wearing down.

My question is why did the truck run 10+ years without these mods but now requires this to work? In my mind something has failed. I don't think wiring mods is the right answer to the issue. (Personal opinion)

Here is a new version of what I've got. http://www.panapacific.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PP604195&Category_Code=TRK-004

Unknown.

Woohoo! New Meadows, ID had a high temp today of all +19*F... Going to get cold here too... Talking about snow maybe... But when the forecast for less than 1 inch I don't get worried.

That's the thing you talk to the EMT's that talked to the driver all during the accident there is one story, then talk to the State Police another story, looking at the scene. I know he had to travelling quite fast to rub that much guard rail and still climb the bank then chuck the front axle that far out forward of him.