Mopar1973Man

Q: is it Bosch approved?

Let's say the Secret Squirrel hosting is all done right here on M73M.com. So you never know if Ed might ask some one to Beta test this product. Might be a good time to update your signatures and truck information. All I can say is I tossed another idea at Ed for another product just a few days ago. Fairly simple product too.

Nice to see easy fixes...

Yes this is true Xylene is a PPD (pour point depressant) which aids in preventing gelling. The amount added is what going to change the pour point of the diesel fuel. If you can find specs of fuel you find the Xylene content will go up as winter cold temps go down. Xylene is a paint thinner basically and not a very good lubricant. Mostly used as a cleaning solvent and pour point reduction.

By chance what size tires are you running too? Matter of fact it might be a good idea to fill in your signature so others can see what you got on your truck.

Uh... Yeah... It going to get worse if I get back to the weekend hiking. Right now its just too slick to be hiking on the weekends.

Nice Article. This is worth adding to the archive as well...

I know... But this is unseasonably cold for here. I know up there in MN its down right cold. I should know MoparMom grew up in your state.

Well to give you a clue of how cold its been here in Idaho I had about 8 cords in the shed seasoned and dry. As of tonight I've exactly 1.5 cords left and with the cold snap we'll be shovel loading the stoves for the next few days so I know that will vanish quickly. Thankfully enough I brought home extra wood and been splitting it when the weather was warmer and got it all stacked up under the tree so I'm now falling back on my reserve wood here really soon. Still got about 2 cord unsplit in the yard. As of Feb, 5 2014 we had a low of +13*F and high of +20*F at the house. As of Feb, 5 2014 New Meadows, ID reported a low -11*F and a high +14*F.

Hmmm... The information I've got is from 2009.

Like in Howes its got the Xylene in it as the PPD...

This why I typically suggest the compression test and pop testing of the injectors together. Because if your going to yank the injectors out to pop test you might as well test the cylinder health too by running the compression test too. Now you know the cylinder health and the injector health in one pass with two tests.

Pretty wild the amount of gelling issues people have been having. I would find a product that will reduce the pour point to meet your needs. But this should be handled by local fuel suppliers but once again its shocking how many rigs I've heard of gelling up. So check your local part store for what you got available. Then you might do a bit of research and get the MSDS sheets for each on and look and see how much solvents are in the product. Then you at least have a clue if you would need extra lube or not. Personally I don't like to mix products. But also I took the time to research all my local fuel suppliers and have a good relationship with all the store owners. So I know if they meet the standard or don't.

Problems still remains there isn't a diaphragm in the pump Iive got here on my shop bench which happens to be a 027 Rev VP44 pump. I've still got that piece of the distributor head laying on my desk and its a solid steel plate with a plastic back to hold the o-ring. I've been hunting around the internet and talking to people and still to this day no one can find a Bosch part number or a Bosch seal kit that contains this "diaphragm". There is no physical way for me to break this disc. Like I said its a solid steel ring. It not rubber like shown below. Once again this is a solid steel ring.

That's what I thought. Just use dowels to lift the tappets back up. I was thinking of others that do in-frame rebuilds. But yes I can see flipping the block over being the fastest way to deal with that issue.

Check the pedal rods above. You'll need a flashlight to see them. But look at the rods coming from the pedals to the device (clutch / brake rods)

Here is the computer layout...

Here the vid...

This is the hardest on any vehicle is to use it in-frequent. Like you admitted to using it in the fall year for hunting so I can bet the rotors are filled with mud and what not. Then if you use in the winter time for snow then your adding salt to the mix which absolutely kills the rotors in a quick hurry along with other metal parts. If it was me I would be washing the under body more often to prevent the standing of salt and mud on any parts. This is one of the reasons I've still got my factory OE rotor and brake parts yet (except brake pads).

Be careful you are killing off intercooler ability to breathe and the ability of the fan to lock in case of excessive temperatures are created. This is why I'll cover the grill but never put anything in-between the radiator and the intercooler because you now stopped all air flow over both units and temperatures can and will get out of hand very quickly. If you got a ScanGauge II or Edge Juice watch yout IAT I bet it gets rather hot quickly. But now with covering the grill as the temperature rises a bit the fan clutch will partial lock and keep a mild amount of air moving so the intercooler doesn't get too hot.

I'm curious why is this? If the tappets are all lifted shouldn't the cam slide out?

Heck... That seems low. I know the Dodge FSM doesn't state a number. But when Pepsi71Ocean did his it was 425-450 PSI for a 16.3:1 ratio SO 24V engine. I know the CR engine are better compression over the 24V.

I would test with a external mechanical gauge. You'll most likely find way different numbers than what's on the gauge now.

Read the download page there is a password also double check the MD5 hash to verify the file made it in one piece. Both the RAR software and the MD5 hash software are both here on the site.

If I thought there was excessive blow by this thing I would do is take all 6 injectors out and have them pop tested being 99.9% of all CR engine cylinder issues are from injector failure. Then while the injectors where out I would do a compression test and see if you can reach a normal 450-475 PSI worth of cylinder pressure.