Mopar1973Man

Double check your pressures at about 1,500 RPM's and verify the pressures still hold up about 35 PSI on the low side. It doesn't do any good to charge the system up for idle because most people drive there truck not just start and let the idle in a parking lot for A/C.

Here is a bunch of YouTube Videos on it... https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bundy+ranch

As for what I can see IAT sensor ECT Sensor MAP Sensor (but the value is incorrect on mine but newer version seem to be corrected with a boost gauge) GPH flow of fuel burned Load of Engine RPM MPH HP (Calculated HP at the flywheel) Charging volts There are more...

6-7% grade at 65 MPH empty truck I'm right at 1,000 to 1,100*F But now hitch up the RV and use 4th gear at about 53-55 MPH I'm about the same EGT's but now going from 7,600 pounds empty to hitched and loaded at almost 17,000 pounds. WOT run from 55 to nearly 90-95 MPH I'll tip over 1,400*F just flat kicking the pig.

I show 2.0 hrs for injectors for all six injectors. So I would say MoparTech is close enough for the rest... I've heard some out outrageous prices for injection pump installs and other things...

I'm due to flush both water heaters out here. I've normally get a bit of mud from the well from spring runoff. But MoparTech is right the cold water flows into the bottom of the tank so the hot water is rising to the top and still feeding the house. But the drain is at the bottom so it will nearly always run cold water. I typically cut the water supply to it and drain it completely out and the turn the water on to allow the force of the water hopefully to stir the junk in the bottom up and drain out.

Glad to see your OK. I was starting to get concerned about you if you got hurt or something. I even went as far as dig up your actual home phone number and was getting ready to call you. I even went as fair as checking the information by Google Maps and finding your RV in your yard.

Be aware that any debris is going to settle to the bottom of the caliper and wheel cylinder (if equipped)

Like myself I've got a ScanGauge II for code reading and reading live data of the engine.

Seriously the 3 forgotten fluids to change on these trucks are. 1. Brake Fluid 2. Power Steering Fluid 3. Coolant

There is a balance between upkeep maintenance and failing vehicle. I know the difference. I had a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon that was this way it seem like every time I turned around I was off to a wrecking yard looking for part for this old beast. This way a reason I bought my truck new in 02.

PM Sent...

Just a mild swap of 265's to 235's will rid that problem. They are both 31" tires just the 235's are 1.18" (30 mm) narrower and 0.04" (1 mm) inches taller (1 rev per mile more). But the 235's are roughly 23 pounds lighter over the 265's. Look better on 16x7 wheel vs 16.5x7 stock wheels.

When you get to pulling the heads off look at the head gasket closely and see if the coolant seal was rotted out from corrosive coolant. Being that Lincoln doesn't have a turbo and high compression ratios I doubt it was compression caused.

Hey diesel4life do you happen to have that part number of that thermostat? I would like to order one.

I've hear the same thing too that ATF should not be used in these truck because of a some design difference. I know people do it all the time but typically the net result is steering box that leaks or other issues.

I've seen several of those. Hate to rub noses in this... But.... That is a sign of owner abuse and lack of vehicle inspection which should occur during you typical oil change. You should be rotating tire at your oil change while all 4 tires are off you should take the few seconds and look at the brake pads.

Mothballs work better in enclosed spaces that are fairly air tight.

I just got a PM from him he's still with us just got personal issues going on...

Your not winning...

Ummm... I don't think I've got the guts to lick that tape either.

Thermostat bulb down. Typically mark on which side up or down. Bolt on the thermostat cover no sealant required. I typically put a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads.

It would be nice to have current weights of both the truck and trailer. (Fully loaded). Me personally found that a Edge Comp module and small injector like RV275's or +50HP are very controllable. Even with the Edge Comp on 5x3 the EGT's are controllable and gives good performance. I'm still running BHAF, Straight pipe 3" exhaust and a HX35 turbo. I typically gross out at 17,000# but that's a far cry from your trailer weight. This why I was asking for current weights with water and everything.

Even a Vulcan Big Line kit and Stock pump is better...

If there is any Scotchlocks make sure to repair the wires properly solder and shrink tube and get rid of the Scotchlocks.