Mopar1973Man

All I can say is ask him (ISX). I remembered the thread when her got his PanaPacific Gauge and shot a picture of the temp probe zip tied to the BHAF.

Yea he covered that too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/5781-bhaf/?view=findpost&p=64754

I don't sweat that either since ISX already done the measurement for BHAF intake temperature and typically at highway speed the BHAF temperature will be roughly +2*F to +5*F over outside which equates out to +1*F difference at the IAT sensor. Roughly calculating... 100*F day, 70% efficiency of the Turbo, 100 or 105*F intake temp. 30 PSI of boost at 13.0 PSIa 105* Intake -> 430*F out of turbo -> 133*F out of Intercooler. 100* Intake -> 422*F out of turbo -> 132*F out of intercooler. Still within operational standard. Even going hard. 120*F (+20*F over outside) -> 454*F(turbo) -> 135*F (intercooler) Middle of winter. Roughly calculating... 0*F day, 70% efficiency of the Turbo, 0*F intake temp. 30 PSI of boost at 13.0 PSIa 0* Intake -> 265*F out of turbo -> 27*F out of intercooler. Way to cold for optimal burning of fuel for a daily driver. These calculation are really close to actual seen at least on my ScanGauge II. Here is other video examples...

Lot of people claim the steering box brace helps a bunch but typically they are running oversized tire which increase the leverage stress on the steering components and the gear box. Same goes for the track bar which typically fails from oversized tires as well from the added stress from the tires. So once everything wears out a little bit and gets loose the the Death Wobble starts. I would also check the shocks while I was there too.

Hang in there I'm trying to review all the security setting of the site. Forum by forum and group by group. Instant should send them out ASAP when the thread is updated. Daily Digest will produce a series of email at a set time. When you got several pages of long list like these you tend to take your time very careful and check each setting.

Hang in there I'm trying to review all the security setting of the site. Forum by forum and group by group. Instant should send them out ASAP when the thread is updated. Daily Digest will produce a series of email at a set time. When you got several pages of long list like these you tend to take your time very careful and check each setting.

Here you go. http://www.dieselautopower.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=high+idle

Any error codes? Do you have access to live data tool like a ScanGauge II? I would check the TPS signal for a drop out or use a DVM against the APPS sensor checking for a voltage drop or sudden change.

Smart thing to do...

I've seen in the dead of winter with minus temperatures outside just idling I can pull the coolant temperature down to about 185-188*F idling then it seems to stop. But that is rare and rather extreme case. Typically I don't leave the truck idling long periods sitting still. Traffic lights? What's that??? Idaho County only has 1 traffic light in the entire county. Valley county has 2 traffic lights...

Warmer air in the winter has helped my rig. I found that optimal is about 100-140*F IAT temperature. Filter performance is as good or better than any washable filter I can clear at least 100k miles out here on Idaho dirt roads. But that is my

Enuf Said...

He's not joking either... I know what he's talking about too... I might be lucky to be included in the design process too.

Typically the little blue puff of a smoke would be like valve seals leaking. So like a intake can drip a few times in the cylinder causing the blue puff.

Something isn't set up right. I would go back and check timing on the pump.

Even on a cold winter day I can hold 193-195*F worth of coolant temp and very steady.

Should never increase fuse size to over come a problem this will result most likely either in melted wires or a possible vehicle fire. If the fuse is blowing out there must be something causing a over-current condition. Pinched wires to ground, locked rotor in the fuel pump, internal issues to the pump motor. Etc. Should always use the same size fuse or smaller. This way you never end up with a vehicle fire or mess of melted wires.

Manual NV4500 hold 1 gallon and so does my rear diff. Yes I've extended my interval sometimes up wards to 40-45k miles if the fluid was not dark yet. Like on the 1996 I just extended them as well the fluid is still honey colored when I last sampled it. (Mobil Petroleum 80w-90 GL-5). I do tow but not right at GCWR of 20,000 pounds but 16,000 to 17,000 is pretty dang good pull when you start hauling up and down grade of 16% in the mountains here. My intervals are based between color, contamination, and mileage. If color and contamination but are good then push the mileage up another 5k miles. If the color or contamination is getting poor skip the mileage part and dump it now and change.

G107 is located behind the starter and bolted to the block of the engine you can't visually see this ground till you remove the starter.

From the end user perspective its a bit different. Most get the idea its synthetic I never have to inspect the fluid at all for 100k miles or even worry about it. This is one of the common down falls. So now the end user changes the differentials fluid tops it off good to go 100k. As long as its not leaking out the owner is happy. Opps... Bad thinking. So many times I've open up differentials around here found them overly contaminated in form or other. Just because its synthetic means you still have to do the inspections of the fluid level and color and check for contamination of the fluid.

Thank you for stepping forward. I'm sure there is others here as well that appreciate the leadership for spiritual matters.

Not sure. Thinking outside the box. I would have to say the CEL light is tripped and the instrument cluster was told the tach signal is faulty with the P0336 code and so the cluster is no longer reading the tach till the P0336 code is clear or dealt with. Remember the instrument panel has its own software like the ScanGauge II but also has its own rules it has to listen to as well so in the cause I would has to take a educated guess at the software holding the tach off.

Ok. So verify there is power here at the yellow/white and black/white connectors. You'll need need to bump the stater to get power flowing for this plug. The first key on pump bump doesn't matter nor does it mean anything. It after the ECM sees crank signal and what it does after that.

That's a old school scare... When you buy a oil pressure gauge it comes with the very same nylon tubing kit and your hooking up 0-80 PSI oil pressure line from the engine. There is never been threads or even a discussion on any of the diesel site of a direct plumbed oil pressure gauge blowing out in the cab. But now post about fuel leak in the cab its a major problem. "Oh my gawd the sky is falling"... But what about that direct plumbed oil pressure gauge its still direct plumbed to the engine? Now with mine its direct plumbed as well with the needle valve and barely cracked open if the line was to crack or open it would barely drip because of the needle being closed as far as it is. Also if there was a failure just close the valve problem contained. As for spraying out fuel you'd have huge issues with 80 PSI of unrestricted oil pressure! As for protecting your install just use 1/8" air brake line is burst rating is some where around 600-800 PSI and this is most commonly used on big rig truck for oil pressure gauges too. (Food for thought)

Right about HERE!