Mopar1973Man

As provided by the site. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=core&module=help&do=01&HID=8

Try either... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/2285-me78569/ or http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/user/892-yankneck696/ Those two guys would know what can be used or not. Being the company went out of business I really doubt there is going to be much for parts.

Cummins kit if I remember right doesn't have any instructions just the seals. Only paid $13 bucks for it.

Ahhh... Just pull the nails out of the ash and straighten again. (Recycle-Reuse!)

Just for fun I hauled out this even shot a quick bit of video in 640x480 29 fps. I could of cranked it up in HD mode and really sucked up the memory card. But I wanted to see what good old 640x480 would do. It would give me 2 hours of video time and reduce the file size of the video. It's a bit grainy after YouTube process again but that what its all about doing test runs right?

I'm not looking forward to being stabbed in the back when I roll into town Monday morning to get fuel. I'm sure its still $3.759 yet.

With my 3000 PSI washer I tend to keep at least 1 foot from the radiators and coolers. But there is nothing better than removing them and getting the job done correctly.

Let's hear them. I thought I had a vacuum pump thread but I guess not.

Hmmm... The only thing I would say that I'm doing different that all the past is the main oil filter is NAPA filter. I might have to go back up to Grangeville, ID to the Cummins shop and get a few Fleetguard filters.

I've got a vacuum pump seal kit sitting in the shop one day I'll have to jump in and change that. But the thing is since I started working with Lindy at the shop he's made it a point to take the nasty rides outside hit them with "Power Clean" and then power wash them off. Typically done first thing in the morning or last thing before we leave. This way they dry you pull it in the shop and you can work on a fairly clean rig and not be up to your elbows in grease and dirt dropping in your face. Well since he gave me his old power washer I've been doing weekly wash downs. Man take about nice to work on your own rig and you don't even really need a rag. Also now since the block is dry it really does show up the leaks really well. But I will admit if you got any thick dirt/grease build up it takes several washing to get rid of it. So be patient.

Well ever since I've starting to work with Lindy I've really taken interest in making my truck near perfect again. I'm actually chasing down all the little weeping leaks. Like I've known about a fuel leak for quite awhile in the back either #6 injector line or the return at the back of the head. So since I've been keeping the rig washed down it really showing up now. So now I pulled the valve cover snugged the return banjo. This really made the job easy to reach the banjo bolt. As a matter of fact the IAT sensor is a breeze to get at without the hoist ring and the valve cover. Then backed off and reseated the injector line. So later on I got to degrease the back of the engine again and check again. It leaves a light fuel residue on the block and bottom of the bellhousing. But never drips on the floor of the shop. I'm also watch my pan gasket start to weep a bit. While the valve cover was off I might as well run the valve lash again. Not really bad but some were just a bit loose for my liking. Intake (0.008") and Exhaust (0.018"). I like snug! Needless to say in the wet highway 4th gear spins the tires now...

I wish... Diesel $3.759 Gasoline $3.479

Down at the shop we use Super Clean... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NCB101724_0006395256 Spray it on let it soak on warm surface like 100-140*F engine is excellent. Next fire up the power washer and blow the crude out of it.

Shouldn't be any different than what I get for coolant temps. 193-195*F... I'm completely blocked off on the grill.

Moved...

Thermostat time and maybe a fan clutch. Right now it starting morning temps is about 35-40*F and afternoon highs are in the 50's... I'm running my winter front the grill is completely covered. I never get above 195*F. If you radiator is truly clean where you removed it and power washed it till your can see through it. It shouldn't have any issues at all. Even my radiator still has to be remove from time to time to be cleaned.

Kind of like my vacuum pump seal started leaking one time had oil scattered all over the transmission. Changed oil and it stopped just shows signs of weeping now and then.

Absolutely correct...

Very interesting to say the least. Usually when you get the feel to bolt it time to follow your instincts and leave like you did. But as for the smell I've never really ever run across anything like that before.

Umm... It's full of oil. Actually slightly over filled. Kind of hard to hit the full mark with a 5 gallon bucket... I'm getting ready to land on the moon (238,900 miles) I'm at 237,200 miles...

Hey Gang... The Members RV /Trailers forum is going to be obsoleted and replaced by the Garage tab function at the top of the page. I will be killing off this forum by next year some time so please move over to the Garage function and update your vehicles.

But the whole thing is it stop now. So there is no way of tracking it now at all.

Well even the stock OEM alternators work for half the price. Either way you need to modify your truck for the large alternator (large charge lead, larger fuse, etc.) which now adds more price to the tag. But still in all does it guarantee they alternator is going to lass longer or not have AC noise problems. Maybe? The only reason I would see a oversized do the job better is in this case more diodes to handle the loads but also having enough alternator to cover the load of the grid heaters (maybe) depend on how much RPM's are need to charge at full rate. But still that's going to add quite a bit of parasitic load to the engine as well.

Normal alternator Failed...

I considered getting my ham license but never have.