Mopar1973Man

Fuses and relays don't work. Just pull another fuse or relay to get it running. There has been a few good idea told to me. Like rigging the starter relay on the cigarette light. So in other words you would have to push the cigarette light in like you going to heat it up to start the truck. When you leave just take the lighter with you. Another idea is open the PDC and fine the fuel pump relay and disconnect the black lead. Now hook a new black lead to that terminal and run in the cab to a hidden toggle switch. The other terminal go to ground. So now as long as the switch is on the VP44 will fire up. Without the switch its dead. I suggest locating the switch some where where people will not see you reaching or digging to flip. I had the idea of hiding it under the brake release lever. This way it a natural movement to release your brake and tip of the finger toggle the switch. Master power disconnect. Those work good to. Just got to be sure the terminal ends are not accessible like in a floor mount the terminals are just under the truck looking for a jumper lead. Another suggestion is to make sure you lock your hood. Back when I lived in California I use to chain the hood down to prevent others from accessing other ways of starting the car. Also any wire work you do make sure to hide it all in the factory loom. This makes it extremely difficult to figure out what was mess with and what is disabled. This fall I just repaired a stolen 1999 Dodge Cummins...

48*F here and I've got a lawn. Seeing some of the new feeds on the Internet I got to admit people are goofy as hell running to the store and buying everything out. Me. Just bring on the snow. I've got everything I need right here on the property. Food, water, heat (firewood), electricity, fuel. Don't need much... I just did a generator exercise a few days ago. Fire it up plugged in the inverter and cut the city breaker. I've got options...

Post up a good picture of yourself. Come on guys and gals no hiding here. Lets see who you are. I'll start...

(all questions separated per line) About 3" from the VP44 in the main line after the last fuel filter (stock can). Yes, It is in the line post pump and post filters. No. It's not in between filters. 5/8 of a tank when I left. Yes, I had 1/8 of tank with the low light on when I hit Riggins, ID for fuel. No issues that morning. If the cold was doing something funny you have to remember it was 44*F inside the shop where the truck was parked. The outside temp here at the house was about 27*F. It had the issues here near the house but by the time I got to New Meadows proper it was -3*F so it should of really shown up then but never did. Hard to explain more like a shuttering motion when you gave it throttle. If you backed off it ran fine. Once warmed up it was fine. But again it never happened again. Oh for sure I'll be thinking about it. VP44 is just to the left and the stock filter can to right.

Funny part is all of Idaho fuel comes from Utah or over in Washington. Everything bit of gasoline and diesel is trucked into the state of Idaho. I understand why prices are higher. Why is that quality is better? We get the same cold weather like everyone else does. New Meadows proper can get down right cold at times. (Minus 20 to 25*F) How do all the truckers (log trucks) and freight trucks survive the long trek into the back country without gelling up? I know these guys don't carry fuel additive products. We don't have trucks sitting along the highways gelled up. Still in all like some of station have the same system "Oh, the trucks just come and dump the product." But then there places like I've shown the picture of the barrel of pour point depressant. So keep this stuff around for treating the tank.

Funny part is all of Idaho fuel comes from Utah or over in Washington. Everything bit of gasoline and diesel is trucked into the state of Idaho. I understand why prices are higher. Why is that quality is better? We get the same cold weather like everyone else does. New Meadows proper can get down right cold at times. (Minus 20 to 25*F) How do all the truckers (log trucks) and freight trucks survive the long trek into the back country without gelling up? I know these guys don't carry fuel additive products. We don't have trucks sitting along the highways gelled up. Still in all like some of station have the same system "Oh, the trucks just come and dump the product." But then there places like I've shown the picture of the barrel of pour point depressant. So keep this stuff around for treating the tank.

Actually it start back in 1994 with the California Emission 12V Dodge Cummins. Really strange to see a EGR valve on a 12V Cummins...

I really have a head scratcher there. Why is it here in Central Idaho in the middle of nowhere the fuel is properly treated. But places like Colorado and Nebraska fuels are willy nilly and toss in a truck and gelling issues are more common? To this day since I started 2 cycle oil way back 2006 I've not used any anti-gel product ever! Yes. I'm picky of my fuel sources and make sure to talk to the station owners and keep up to date on what happening. I just think that's totally weird...

It's 03 and up that is ATF. 98.5 to 02 is all power steering fluid. No you can't use ATF in our steering boxes. Ultimately what happens is the ATF will attack the seal and create leaks. I've seen this on the local trucks around here they get in a pinch and use ATF because their Ford uses it. Well like I said typically the steering box start to leaking and seals start to fail.

Keep use posted on any effects it might have on that cat... I'm very curious of the results.

I'm sorry to say you look back at old school cars back in the day and I use to run 160*F and 180*F thermostat in my Dodge Charger. Now my 96 Dodge is a 195*F thermostat and the 02 Cummins 190*F. But the technology of the engines, oils, etc all have improved and making things tighter and lasting longer. Heck look at my 73 Charger it was wore out at 100k miles and now look at the 96 its 159k miles and still rolling strong. As for thermostats typically the marked number on it is the opening temperature but usually in about 10-15*F more degrees its fully open. I think it more about proper operating temperatures than when the thermostat opens or is wide open. As long as the engine is in operating temperature which is typically above the stock thermostat rating, that's what matters.

Here is the issue most PPD (pour point depressants) are solvent based chemicals so yes adding oil is going to help over come it to a point kind of like having diesel fuel in your oil. I don't suggest adding much over 1 oz per gallon because as the fuel cools the fuel gets thicker and put more strain on the VP44. I see Rancherman is at 1.5 to 2 ounces that would make me squirm. Being that you want to keep roughly 2 to 5 cSt of fuel viscosity and 2 cycle oil can be upwards of 40 cSt. TFaoro I also believe if you add enough 2 cycle oil you could over come the pour point / cloud point issues but at what point does the fuel become to thick to properly pump and atomize in cold weather? Hence what was happening to waste oil burning people trying to burn high volumes and wiping out the pump. (Breaking the rotor free).

Like so many people over on CF tend to have blinder on concerning injector life span and performance. The assume as long as the truck is running that the injectors are not the issue. But like you found out there was possibly a compression leak past #4 without the copper shim as well as just old school 5 hole nozzles.

Cold air and cold coolant are counter productive to a diesel engine. You need enough heat energy to convert atomized diesel fuel to a vapor then ignite the fuel. If its too cold then it lags in conversion and then to ignition. So with the colder temps you got to run higher cetane fuels but high cetane fuels are lower in BTU's. So if you run warm air intake (100-140*F) and warm coolant (190*F or 200*F thermostat) then you should gain back MPG some. The rest is driving style and how fast you drive.

Here is what mine look like paint vs. sticker. Passenger side painted. Driver side sticker. Yes. My truck needs a wash bad...

I'm also running 190*F here. Highly NOT suggested to run 180*F this will reduce the efficiency of the engine. Diesel engines require a certain amount of heat to properly function. 200*F themostat from what I've heard so far will will run you coolant temperature about 197-202*F and bring slightly higher IAT temperatures too which you want to aim for about 100-140*F worth of IAT for good MPG's.

As far as what I understand of Edge products yes it does get more aggressive timing higher the level.

I've got one repainted. It's done in black paint. The other side is a decal.

Fuel Temp was at +44*F from a unheated shop. Less than 3 miles from home. Current temp when I left the house was like +27*F or so. Fuel pressure sender is on the fender. (Needled and Snubbered) If it was a gelling issues it should of happen in New Meadows at -3*F temperature where it ran just fine.

One ounce of oil for every one gallon of fuel. (128:1 ratio).

Actually look at the bottle most 2 cycle oil has a pour point of at least -40*F. Then snowmobile 2 cycle oil has pour point of at least -50*F so if normal #2 winterized diesel is round -20*F then 2 cycle oil will add but not sure how much... Might read up on PPD (Pour Point Depressants) and some of chemicals.

Some will debate that... Like you could do Opti-lube diesel additive which scores better and take less. But the price is a bit higher than 2 cycle oil but you can treat more diesel fuel. My problem is no one sells it locally and has to be freighted here. To much trouble for one product. I've got lots of 2 cycle engine so 2 cycle oil is required here at the house for weed wackers and chainsaws. But yes I'll ask any questions...

because they negate each other. 2 Cycle oil is a cetane reducer PS is a cetane booster 2 Cycle oil is a lubricity enhancer (low HFRR) PS is more of a injector cleaner (high HFRR) So after adding both you get basically nothing.

Kind of like saying you have increase wear from starting the engine without oil pressure. These truck start and run the first few seconds without oil pressure typically and go a long ways. So the VP44 is flooded with fuel for the parts I really don't think wear is a issue till its ran for a period of time without pressure.

As for tuning the pistons I use fine grade sand paper like 450-600 grit till its smooth enough fall back in easy WITHOUT the seals.