Mopar1973Man

Put the needle valve at the source of your fuel tap then if anything goes wrong you can shut the entire system down. The run 1/8" air brake tubing from the needle valve to the gauge. Longer the run the better. I ran direct plumbed for 10 years and with a needle valve. Today I still got the needle valve but not used for dampening any longer it's use as a shut off device for system leaks or failures. I'm using a ISSPro snubber with my ISSPro EV2 electric gauges.

While I was at my CDL class tonight I'd heard from the Fire Chief that several homes up on the mountain had lost there wells and dried up. As for Riggins, ID they are now limiting water in the city of Riggins, ID. Then on top of that we are heading back into 100-105*F temps again so water is going to get tighter yet. Pray that the weather cools off and we get more rai we can use it out here. According to the Deputy I was with Nezperce Forest is in a Stage II fire restrictions now.

Yeah it happen to me again. Stupid people in a hurry and driving to fast. I can see a semi-truck coming towards me then a Chevy pickup come bouncing out from behind the semi-truck I was forced to emergency stop into the shoulder / ditch of the highway to avoid a head on collision. Don't get me wrong there is time I will drive fast but passing people please look well ahead of the vehicle ahead of you before pulling out. Then again tonight I with a Deputy from the sheriffs office setting up the CDL class for the fire dept and we got passed by a motorcycle illegally over a double yellow line. People slow down there is nothing in this world worth getting yourself in accident or killed.

Absolutely... I'm a boondocker... But I would love to have you as a neighbor if camping... Maybe drink a beer with you.

It's actually sold by a vendor I just can't find who again.

Nothing your missing out on. Nice area but campground is rather dated.

Even if he is staff... He needs to back on his diet...

Just for fun here is the location I shot the picture from. Looking north east... https://www.google.com/maps/@44.9577582,-116.4588712,139m/data=!3m1!1e3

If they make the setup I'm pretty sure you can get a probe for it. Why make a part and not have a proper size probe?

Your welcome. Thank you for the kind comments and the donations that keep it going.

It only when installing injectors you want to tighten the connector tube first to center the cross over tube. But being the the tubes are sealed and centered there is no need to mess with the injectors.

Me personally I would of stayed with lead acid batteries. But that's the way for the wiring.

The secret is that loss of prime typically don't leave a wet spot. If the air leak is in a pressure spot it will leak fuel while running. So typically the leak is in a suction spot of the fuel system.

Ok... Power starts out on Fuse 10 in PDC which is a 50 Amp Fuse. Travels a Red wire to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch it turns black/white wire heading to the fuse panel in the dash. Then Fuse 8 which is 10 Amp Fuse then travels Red/White wire to the radio. Then for memory... Power start at Fuse 1 in PDC which is a 50 Amp Fuse. Travels Red/Black wire to the fuse panel in the dash. Then Fuse 12 (IOD) which is a 10 Amp Fuse then travels a pink wire to the radio.

There is no reason to add accessories to the battery terminals. There is 2 very capable studs in the PDC. Even all my stuff there is nothing on the batteries.

Head over to BlueChip site and do the hot wire method and see if it starts. If it does then you have a ECM issue of some sort. But if not then you most likely still have a fuel prime issue or VP44 issue.

It took me over 5 years of asking around to get my hands on a damaged VP44 that couldn't be used as a core and it just happen to be Rev 027 as well so it most common version of pump. Now if we could get people in the CR group to pull apart stuff too.

Here is a picture I took today and just fell in love with it turned out awesome. Lost Valley Reservoir...

3.5 hours on R&R a VP44 the labor book calls for 4 hours so I would say not bad. As for the sensor I heard that many have managed to change the sensor with a T handle torx wrench. Or a socket style Torx with a long extension.

Here is the set up I would run on my truck if and when I do it. Cooling coil and the pyrometer all in one piece.

Nice to hear the vendors cut you some slack and get you rolling. Thanks Jacob!

AH64ID at those prices I would have to say your right. For me though with the wider gap I can justify the diesel usage.

Just remember that FASS is much larger pump vs AirDog so the shop will have to be aware of that as well. I've got a local job that's on hold where I got to do a custom install of a FASS 150 system on a 2001 short box. Lets say it will be interesting.

Basically I would start with changing out the cam sensor. Which in this case is the tach sensor for the 2001 to 2002 model trucks. So that explains the tach drop out. But If the sensor doesn't fix the issue I would say its time to ohm test the wiring. Yes a loss a tach signal will put it into limp mode.

Still got all my OEM battery holder bolts and clips yet and no sign of wear.