Mopar1973Man

So the next problem will be the MPG will go lower now with larger injectors. EGT's will go up more when unspooled which will be the smog issue next. Also with California smog regulations you going to have to watch your smoke emissions too might get a smoking ticket?

Hua? Piston seal OE Mopar Seals. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5017170&cc=1440064&jnid=491&jpid=0 Full caliper rebuilt kit for $4 a piece. ($16 for all 4) https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2046132&cc=1440064&jnid=492&jpid=3 Slide pin boots. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3053931&cc=1440064&jnid=493&jpid=0

Did you rinse the fitting out with brake cleaner or ether to verify its not from being uncoupled from the charging hose?

Like said on the bottom of the table... Personally I would of nudged the high side pressure up just a bit more just passed 200 PSI for those temps. No higher than about 250 PSI. More or less getting a balance of liquid to vapor in the system.

Nope never did. Just re-adjust the upper hinge a little and keep going. I was talking to a local rancher and he's got the same problem to I got to get down there and fix his door too. Just light readjustment. I will admit that full hinge replacement is the proper way of fixing the door. If you can get away with a mild readjustment go for it.

Typically because brake fluid was allowed to age and eat the rubber liner in the hose. If you change you brake fluid every 30k miles this won't happen. Do you hold stock in brake fluid producing companies?

First off it not about torquing the clamp down. Second you can get a small cut off of steel 4" exhaust pipe it will fit just inside the neck.

Ummm.. It called a camera with timer and a tripod. I never smile... Sorry.

Solution to that problem is easy. Don't lose your rubber caps for the bleeder screws. If you do lose then find some vinyl tubing that fits over the nipple. Cut the vinyl tubing about an inch long. Then heat the tubing with a cigarette lighter and melt the vinyl a little. Quick squeeze the end shut with pilers it will make a perfect cap for your bleeder screws and never have that issue again. Don't torque the screw in just lightly tighten (think single digit inch pounds).

Like towing I can see 30-32 PSI on 7% grade towing my RV and stay very cool at 1,100*F at 55 MPH. Empty grade climbing like Goose Creek to McCall, ID its another 7% and I regularly see 10-20 PSI of boost and about 800*F worth EGT's with a speed limits of 45 MPH and corners rated for 25 MPH. Again smaller injectors, stock turbo, etc. But now flip that coin over and go for racing. I'd lose.. I man enough to admit I would lose that battle quick because I got the power out of the hole up to about 65-70 MPH and flattens out beyond that where your setup would be just pouring on the power after that large turbo got spun up. Again its about designing the power band where its more useful for you driving style.

Like myself I rebuilt my calipers for about $28 bucks for all 4 calipers and did the piston cleanup and installed. Super easy but much cheaper. I would only consider replacing the caliper if there was rust damage to the bores.

Bad deck. I've seen this issue before and had problems with rear speakers working. Wasn't my truck but a customers.

Too low of a sub level. Bring it up. Try 5x2 or 5x3. Sublevels 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost. 4. Some extra fuel at low boost. 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI Boost. So this is partially why you EGT's are high is your lagging out the fuel and not getting turbo spun up. Sublevels 1-3 are like placing the virtual egg under throttle till X amount of boost is made. You problem is your attempting to build boost but got no fuel for your large turbo. At the top left of the screen click on your user name then select settings. The select signature or photo and you can change both.

Typically I just break down the caliper clean the pistons up and put in a seal kit which is way cheaper than buying new calipers. Now buying new packed calipers is way easier to do than rebuilding. So it depends on how deep your pockets are. I suggest getting stock rotors if your replacing the rotors. As for pads looks for mid grade and avoid high performance pads being they enhance rotor wear. I buy budge pads typically and get 180k miles from the OE pads. Now to my next brake job at 360k miles.

Did mine without jacking up the axle. The key is to pump the fluid through as many places as possible. The rocking action of the steering wheel pushes fluid into both sides of the power piston inside the gear box. The pumping the brakes pushes fluid to both sides of its power piston. If you really want to get the gear box super clean then yes you will need to jack it up and steer from lock to lock with the engine off and it will pull fluid from the pump and push it into the gear box but also pushing the piston complete cycles empty each chamber completely and refilling as you go from lock to lock. Make sure you cycle from lock to lock slowly. This process takes longer because there is no pump to aid in pushing the fluid but it does empty more of the debris and old fluid than the quick method. But remember this will deal with the steering box and does absolutely nothing for the hydro-booster.

Just for fun... A fresh picture today. Hard at work administrating the site as usual.

That's a good idea. To have a valve in the return line and be able to pump it out.

Bingo. That is efficient use of gears and speed vs. EGT's. Like for example I've got a slight grade from Riggins, ID to home which is 15 miles but only climb 1,000 feet of elevation in 15 miles. So if I ran 53 MPH in 4th gear I will drop EGT's to about 650*F vs running 5th gear at 53 MPH where its about 800-900*F EGT's. But I still think your turbo is big on the exhuast housing I would opt back to at least a 12 cm2 exhaust housing. That's going to add to the EGT's. I would consider doing a fuel module like Edge Juice or Edge Comp being I don't see any fuel module in your current setup. This would give you better control over your fuel management over just straight injectors. Then also gain at least 120 HP on top of the 75 HP injectors you got now. The nice part is you could use the defuel modules to tapper out the fuel so to give turbo time to light up. Like myself with +50 HP and my Edge Comp on 5x3 (120 HP with 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI and then add fuel from there). Timing is the other factor that will improve the MPG number if used properly.

Exactly... You can't built for racing power and expect daily driver efficiency. This is the common up-side-down problem. You get everything perfect for racing now your MPG's will be lower. Efficiency is based on quick spool of the turbo so actually a HY35W turbo would be better than my HX35W turbo. Better spool up for daily driving light to light less smoke. Smaller injectors atomize fuel better than bigger ones. Smaller the atomize droplet the quicker it can convert from liquid to vapor and go BOOM. Warmer air is more efficient than cold air. The warmer air aid in the conversion process getting the fuel to ignite quicker. Optimal IAT temps are 100-140*F for every 10*F drop you lose 1 MPG. Using lower cetane fuels have more BTU energy than high cetane fuels. Building for efficiency is different that racing power. You build in the design to be near 0 PSI of boost at cruise but to have quick spool and little smoke.So you use a slightly larger injector to aid in spooling a stock turbo but this is limiting top end power. But your mid range power is massive. I start to lose me efficiency after about 60 MPH but I'm design around the mountain of Idaho and not the interstates of the midwest. This is where people screw up again. They follow someone else designs and expect the road manners and end not getting what the expect. Because driving style and road type is different. Building a diesel for efficiency or for race is just like building V8 gas engine. It should be done 1 step at a time. If you make a step bench test and watch your time logs or MPG logs. Once satisfied with that change do another step watch again. Too many people buy a bunch of part and toss then on blindly not understanding the changes and impact the combo of parts will do. So like you installed a intercooler and it will actually degrade MPG's great for racing but bad for MPG. Too cold will draw MPG's down. Like I based my design of the efficiency of the stock intercooler. Flow improvements like you done typically will not alter the MPG characteristics. Those are great for 500 HP and above typically where they stand out. But during efficiency you boost should be near zero (0-5 PSI) so flow improvements are not required. S&B intake again cold air does not help MPG's. Then the Turbo is too big for light to light launching to it never spools up to help get the truck moving but once its moving the turbo is great because the boost pressure does fall to near zero PSI. Me78569 and Cowboy is making a VGT controller that would be excellent for you. Still in the Alpha stages of design. So this what I meant about up-side down.

Here you go. I finally got my power steering flush out today. Just like I always do. I pull the power steering gear box return line the one closest to the fender off the power steering pump. Now using a piece of junk tubing I slip over the nipple to keep the fluid from running out. Then routed the hose down to my waste bucket. Do add a extra chuck of hose on that to keep the mess down. So I jump in the cab. Fire up the engine and rocking the steering wheel left to right just enough to open the power valve in the gear box. Just as the pump whines shut down the engine. Now load it up a second time do the same thing again and shut down. Then 3rd time place your foot on the brake and pump it and flush that out again when it whines shut down. Now re-hook up your return line and refill to the rim full. When it starts it will draw some of that back in. Then shutdown and allow the foam to settle. Check your level again in about 30 minutes. Takes about 15 minutes to do this job.

Straight wire.

I'll race you for MPG's not speed. But power wise ask JAG1 my truck has nasty problem with breaking loose in 4th gear. My power band is designed around towing and daily driving not top speed. So racing won't prove much other than who can dump the most fuel. But how about how far can you go on a tank of fuel? My record high mark is 27.2 MPG (corrected) 26.12 MPG (Uncorrected).

No picture previously... Now I understand...

Bill ain't that good...

Flat ground where? Everything is on a grade here and highest local point to me is 9,000 feet with grades exceeded 16% locally. Built up-side-down. Now compare me to you. Stock HX35W turbo, Stock 3" exhaust with NAPA 3" muffler, Edge Comp, +50 HP injectors, BHAF, stock intake and exhaust manifold. So most of the stuff you've added creates your issues. Now where my gains are I dumped the stock 16x7.5 stock wheels and got 16x7 wheels. Dumped the stock 265/75 R16 tires and went to 235/85 R16 tires. For every 1 pound of rotational mass you ditch your taking 8 pounds off the frame. The difference between my old 265's and my new 235's is about 96 pounds total or about 768 pounds off the frame. Even myself climb grades I rarely ever see 1,000*F EGT's because typically I drop from 5th to 4th direct (1:1) and torque is improved, boost is elevated, EGT's reduced, and MPG enhanced.