Mopar1973Man

PEX plumbing is rated typically 100 PSI. But all RV manufacture highly suggest regulating down to 40 PSI as a typically pressure. Like here at home I know my well cycles out at 60 PSI and in just about 30 PSI. I normally do not use a regulator at home. But in all RV park I normally use a cheap pressure regulator. I always put the regulator at the faucet side of the hose. This way your hose is protected from high pressures as well. As for the low point drain you might double check them. Like mine have a really hard push to get them to lock in place to seal.

In the same token the service shops out there see the word diesel and automatically increase prices on labor. Then act like it takes forever to do a job or order parts. My intro to this was when my injection pump failed (P0216 @ 50k miles). A ASE certified Dodge Diesel Tech took 8 hours to change one VP44. Thank gawd it was under warranty. Like myself I'm NOT ASE certified but I can change a VP44 in a open field in a rain storm in just under 2 hours. Go figure.

CANBUS connector. This is the Cummins diagnostic port or the port you hook your enhancement module too.

Like myself I charge $60 a hour for mechanic time.

Wash it all down and let the engine dry and check again.

Everything can't be easy. We have to have trials and difficult times toss in once in awhile. How else are we suppose to grow and learn to handle problems. This topic happens to rather timely being I'm going through my own "difficult times" with the Fire Dept and SAR's. Strange how the Good Lord only gives you only as much as you can handle.

My OEM gave up the ghost at about 180k miles and the diode were still passing but the bearings failed. I think I had a Bosch the case was larger and the new one in ND which appears smaller size case.

I can change injectors in a matter of about 1 hour. O-rings can be install during that time. This is why I no longer rely on any shop but do all my own work.

Still waiting for mine to wear out eventually. Knowing my luck I'll end up doing a rebuild or refreshing the engine because it will all fall apart at the last second.

When I was building then years ago I was cutting a 6 inch long piece of heater hose. Then the rest was PVC pipe over the back.

Dripley returns... Like I said take the time and ask folks they will return.

Scales. I drive just the front half of the truck on a scale weigh the axle. (Front Axle Weight) Then drive up both axles and get my actual truck weight. Then drive off till just the rear half of the truck is on the scales (Rear Axle Weight). Now you can do the math on both the front and rear axle weights. So Front axle is 4440 (scaled) and door shows 5200 (GAWR)

Even cheaper yet do like TFaoro did and put a 12V tappet cover on. As for the fleetguard it will not deal with the angle issues and spilling oil.

Sorry, I'm not a EMT so I not exactly sure of the cause.

I'm home. Safe and Sound. I wish the out come could of been better. We found the person. He was out for a UTV ride and rolled the vehicle. This person was pinned to the ground with his leg under the roll bar. Needless to say this person didn't make it. If your going out to cruise around with a ATV or UTV I highly suggest you don't go alone. I also highly suggest you tell people where your going and stick to your plan. If your going to go solo I highly suggest you get one of these. http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/personal-locator-beacons.html

The only way your going to do it is slam the truck to the ground and reduce all aerodynamic drag. Every thing above 55 MPH is about aerodynamic drag at that point.

If your offroad at all you might consider over the top method. No, you can't use rubber hose for the over the top method, it will kink shut and blow the seals out. Basically use 1/2" PVC pipe and route it over the top and down the back side of the engine. Make sure your down pipe is not too long.

Actually I could build carbon up with my light weight running. But towing I'm able to exceed 1,000*F fairly regular climbing grade and carbon will burn at 1,000*F plus.

Could you show a picture of the special tools for the transmission rebuild?

Exactly... 20-21 MPG is what I see at 65 MPH. But it's true a 10 MPH drop will push it even higher. Typically if I hold back to 55 MPH I see a easy 24-25 MPG but pyrometer temps drop to about 500-550*F at 55 MPH.

Slow down. Optimal MPG is had at around 55-60 MPH. Beyond that the numbers start to degrade as you travel faster. Boost is going to be low and drive pressure is going to be low so intakes, coolers and pipes are not going to affect the EGT's nor the MPG's. At this point its all about speed since there is no boost pressure or drive pressure.

Correct. Has no tie to the actual fuel gauge sender. But for it to work correctly you must fill the tank every time. I used mine for 3 months to gauge fuel because my fuel gauge was funky too. Once its calibrated leave the ScanGauge II alone during your fill ups. You'll find going from station to station and pump to pump the gallons number will vary.

Like my conversation with Pepsi over the phone the big problem is who is re-manufacturing alternators. Like NAPA might have several places scattered around the US who knows if they hold the same quality standards from place to place. As for diode failure its from heat created by high current flow lke during extended grid heater use.

Might want to toss a pin on the map..

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has been sitting in the garage un-started for over a month now. Not even worried about it...