Mopar1973Man

First off before I start I have to say "Thank you" to Aden at GOS Performance for sending me the R82003 Programming cable for ISSPro EV2 gauges. So now I know I got to create a write up for this but... Wow! This is way cool. All ISSPro EV2 gauges have a red warning light in the bottom. The light is programmable to any setting you wish. So like for example I'll do the pyrometer gauge. We all tend to use 1,200 for a breaking point. So on the software you simply set the pyrometer to set the light if above 1200. Hit you program button and takes about 3-5 seconds to flash the gauge. Now after programming my limits the light react normally now. So like at key on (not running) the fuel pressure light is on but boost and pyro are off. My settings are... Boost 35-60 PSI light ON Fuel pressure 0-13 PSI light ON Pyrometer 1200-1600 light ON Now I have the same features as Edge Juice or Smarty Touch without being wrapped up in a module. Now there is another kit I might jump into which you can program a relay on the back of the gauge to turn things on or off depending on settings. Now this would take it over the top of what Edge Juice or Smarty could do... Even better yet... Still able to do all this on a Linux PC... VirtualBox and Windows 7...

Oh I'm curious of how many make the grade to Bosch standards.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com As for the cetane chart. Demo using local values. (Winter and summer)

Don't come to my area of Idaho gasoline price are typically 10 to 20 cents higher now vs. diesel price. As for noise reduction. I've re-installed my silencer ring in the turbo, added a 3" straight through muffler, then adjust the valve lash to 0.008 (intake) and 0.018 (exhaust). Run 2 cycle oil which reduces the knock sound levels. I know of some people pulling the carpet up and adding sound deadening material to the firewall and the floor board. Truly my 24V is fairly quiet compared to most others. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/71-2-cycle-oil-engine-noise-reduction But it would be awesome to create a article for a quiet Dodge Cummins and how to get there.

Absolutely. I would love to add more to the site. Just remember the Biodiesel is higher in cetane so it lower in BTU's so typically there is a small loss to MPG while using Biodiesel fuels.

I could of made your old Dodge quiet really easy... Quite the shame you gave up on it.

Well if its going to be a Potato Bar it has to be in Idaho so tell me when and where. I meet you just to have that victory drink together.

Ummm... So what did you replace it with? Sad to hear you gave up on it.

I wish I could magically beam over there and do it. I would even go the extra step stop at a Home Depot grab foam pipe insulation and cover the hi side pipe with foam to guard it from the BHAF too. Not to mention the clips for the high side pipe tend to be flaky so you end up using zip ties to hold it in place again. @Ronman I should get the replacement spring for the locking collar and show you replacement ones. Here is a hi side fitting for R12 to R134a conversions. Then my little bag of tricks...

Last year I barely sold a case. This year I've eaten over 3 cases. Then next year I might not have much. You never know.

Dave you'll just have to make another trip to the moon. (238k, 476k, 714k, 952k) So 238k to the moon, 476k miles to get back home. Then 714k miles to make your second visit to the moon. Then pull in for the final parking at home at 952k miles...

It's always better to be armed with some information than blindly guessing.

OMG?!?! Not equipped to handle it? All you do is change the high side pipe. It would take me less than 1/2 hour to do. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-C-Orifice-Tube/_/R-TEM282530_0191915605

Yeah it did. But I just sent it home for now. I'm looking at roughly $300 to $350 for just a compressor. Not horrid but I'm going to research a bit more and see what I can find.

The last Dodge Ram I did a seal kit on was about $15 bucks from NAPA. As for my project Ford here in the thread sad to say... I've hit the wall. Completed a 1 hour vacuum test and was holding prefect vacuum. Then added the first can of freon but no compressor. Looked at the compressor plug and its destroyed. The compressor clutch broke free and spun at some point destroying the plug.

I'm closing in on 250k miles.

Or towed behind his when it comes to my place. I might to take payment in parts.

My A/C work is spreading like wild fire. I done a job for a local gent he happen to tell his neighbor about it. So now I've got a 1993 Ford 7.3L that I'm resealing being its already been converted to R134a by another shop but it didn't hold freon. So I just happen to have the seal kit for his truck in stock.

Yes I would get matching ECM and PCM for the right year with a manual transmission. Yes, there is software differences on both PCM and ECM. Also get the wiring loom too. Like converting over to manual there is no vacuum cruise anymore in the later series. It now fly by wire cruise. I'd be game to doing a conversion. The problem is if we are missing anything its a long haul to get stuff.

LOL... You had fun.

Yes. Edge Comp, Edge Juice, Quadzilla, Power Puck, Etc. Nope just 3 wires.

That didn't come out right. (Sorry...) But I've seen where some people are book smart but that it. If it beyond the book they are lost. Yeah I could of waited for the rain but didn't. I got in and got busy. Call me crazy...

Bill I know got lucky.... There was another gent in the northern states and was travelling into Canada when his extended hose setup kinked shut and the blow by pressure got high enough to blow the tappet gasket out and leave him stranded. He did a similar thing of running in the frame but his happen to kink shut. This is the only reason to avoid using hose of any type and stayed with rigid pipe. Sucked to have to tell this gent he's going to have to call a tow truck and be towed to a local town to have the gasket replaced.

The documents are up but the staff hasn't done the check to see if the files were good. After that just need to approve each file. I'm biased with Linux and most everything works for me I need the others to check with Windows.

I personally thing part of that problem is the coolant turning corrosive and eating seals and bearings premature. I've proved that time and time again up here with locals. They assume as long as the coolant isn't rusty colored its still good. But like all the systems I've drained out the last gallon typically comes out rusty. Really shocker to show a truck owner that the rust settles to the bottom and typically not seen. So like most I see locally drain off the coolant in a clean bucket, change the pump and pour the same coolant right back in. Good reason why there is such low out comes for some. Then great out come for others like myself. I'm already due for a coolant change now...