Mopar1973Man

No reason for upgrade unless your adding enhancement module and/or injectors. I'm still running stock HX35W turbo without a issue. The only time I see high EGT's is getting stupid with speed (heading toward 100 MPH) or towing up a steep grade with my RV then I've just got to use gearing to compensate. More or less drive like all the big over the road trucks.

I've got no issues with grease-able parts. Typically they get hit with a grease gun every oil change. They trick is to make sure you don't over do the amount of grease on some parts. (Blow the grease out). Like on my sealed parts I've got a grease needle and been capable of reloading the rubber balloon with grease every few years. Still got factory OE tie rods yet.

No restriction. Filter minder is not moving. Yes I've tested it and it working perfectly.

Just back from a long haul today. 240 miles. Weather Average Temperature: 95*F Humidity: 23% Vehicle Speed: 65 MPH IAT 125*F EGT's: 650-700*F Boost: 2-5 PSI Standard BHAF Now that I watch the IAT closely on the way home. I noticed some thing rather odd. Cruising at 65 MPH produced the coolest temperatures. Coasting down grades with exhaust brake off causes the IAT to rise as much as +10*F so I was seeing as much as 135*F coasting at 65 MPH down a 6% grade. Now of course exhaust brake will kick the IAT hard I can see easy 160-170*F IAT temperature rattling against the exhaust brake. Idling I would be right about 140-145*F. Climbing grades with 15-20 PSI of boost the IAT temp either slipped down 2*F or hold steady at 125*F. Personally there isn't much to gain by enclosing the BHAF in a case. Data Provided By: ISSPro EV2's Gauges and ScanGauge II

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/205-p0622-generator-field-not-switching-properly http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/248-p0743-torque-converter-clutch-solenoidtrans-relay-circuits http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/388-p1765-trans-12-volt-supply-relay-cntrl-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/232-p1694-no-bus-message-received-from-companion-module http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

Injectors should come with new copper shims and o-rings for the injector. You might want to order a set of cross over o-rings just to cover your rear for leaks.

Ok. So I learned something new.

Here is the answer... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

CCD network issues. Using what I know from the 2nd Gens I would say that you need to check for CCD network voltage typically 2.49V and 2.51V reference to body ground.

I do have OFE but I've never heard of the half n' half clutch before.

Double check your trans relay. Double check the blue wire at the alternator for good power. (Feeds the trans).

Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram (Auto) is a vacuum motored cruise. Which is required to have vacuum motor other than that the transmission wouldn't know when to kick down with throttled deeply pulling a grade. Where with a manual you really can't change gears with cruise set so there is no reason for vacuum motor cruise. There is no throttle plate to open or close on a diesel engine. Just need to feed a throttle signal to the ECM. So it fly by wire.

I really don't care to bother with oil sample and testing. By the time I reach 500k miles the truck will be 26 years old and ready to be replaced. I just going to make my journey back from the moon now and be happy. Again there is a lot of over the road truck out there making hundreds of thousands of miles in there life. I'm sure I can do the same without all the oil testing and special lubricants. The other thing is regardless all lubricant have to meet the minimum requirement of the CJ-4 API grade. So at that point all oil are equal till each manufacture adds their special blends of additives to the oils to make it their own brand. The weights are all the same if your running 15W-40 all then have to flow the same at the different temperatures. So it just comes down to the additive packages or the bonus of each brand.

There is a member here goes by the name "Dynamic". He's a transmission rebuilder. He has a lot of good knowledge. While your at it con him into becoming a vendor here too.

He has a point... The PCM does use the speed signal for shift points.

Weather or state has nothing to do with the life span of a battery. Everyone for gets I get the same weather here as Arizona with temperatures as high as 110-115*F this year unofficially Riggins, ID topped out at 117*F. Then in the dead of winter I can pull down to -20*F to -25*F in New Meadows, ID. Still get ten years from a battery. It about proper charging and maintenance.

Too bad it can't be recalibrated properly. (Overhead Idiot)

Auto's yes... Manual Trans maybe. Early was vacuum later was fly by wire. Like my truck is fly by wire and no vacuum.

Return line to the tank. Remove that fitting and the spring and ball are right behind the fitting.

Chevron Delo, Valvoline, Mobil Delvac 15w-40 CJ-4 and have been since 2006-2007 when it was released.

FASS should have a 17 PSI spring... (I think). As for my AirDog here is my solution. Just shim the spring using generic washers. Make sure the ID and OD are of proper size for the FASS body.

You need to get up in the lockup gears of 3rd or 4th and it should lock up. Then with the switch ON it should stall if you come to a stop. So fine a piece of highway and get up to 45-55 MPH. Then you should be able to toggle the switch and see the tach jump up in the OFF position and when you flip ON it should lock and drop RPM's. Then once its locked if you come to a stop it should stall.

The half and half is news to me. I remember reading several post about ceramics being rather rough and tough for towing application. But half and half should be interesting to see the results of.

Now that I seen the part number... Here is what it looks like (61504)

Most of my driving is long haul too. Minimum distance for me is at least 100 miles. Then some days I could be as high as 300-400 miles. Nothing like city folks where they drive 3-5 miles and shut down.