Mopar1973Man

Being my birthday is later in October and typically road conditions don't allow for much. MoparMom got me something I needed for the shop... I've now got a nice toolbox for my ever expanding tool collection. Just bought more tools while I was out too. I've now got sockets from 1" to 2" now. Now I can take my 2 old boxes and put everything in on box. Yea!!! Thank you MoparMom! Love & Kisses to you!

Even at 80 Mph I was only 105*f at about 10-15 psi of boost. Even towing the Rv barely made 110*f.

I tend to agree. +100 are bit too big. You can make up for injector size with a module. So basically I've got +120 hp edge comp and +50 hp injectors. You could clean those 100's up with defuel level on the comp.

I always keep a gun, knife, and flashlight on my belt while travelling. Daily at home set up is a fire radio, knife, and a flashlight. The only time the gun is left in the truck is when I got to enter a gun free zone. Exactly. Yeah larger guns do have better stopping power but what good is a gun if you left it at home or in the truck? Not like you going to ask the attacker to wait a sec while I go home to get my gun. So even my odd duck 9mm is better than nothing.

Between the tank and lift pump. Yes... Any line that have pressure will naturally leaks outwards. So between the lift pump and Injection pump would be pressurized so that would leak outwards. Now the line between the fuel tank and the lift pump is all suction line and would not show a outward leak because of the nature of the line its got a vacuum while running and a vacuum while losing prime.

Nope... I would just hit the local NAPA pick a alternator have it bench test and go home for fraction of what both high performance alternators cost.

Correct. Mine for some reason is free wheeling at 190*F. You can stop it with a rubber hose at full temp. It fully locks by 215*F and fully unlocks by about 195*F.

I would highly suggest you deal with a good name vendor. EBay vendors tend to evaporate just when you need them for warranty work. One reason I choose Vulcan for mine I know he got everything in house. If any testing or support is required I know I can send them back to be tested or tuned.

Opps. My bad... I was thinking full flow filter... Yes your correct that bypass filter do just plug up.

Any of the vendors should carry them. I know Vulcan will suggest hitting a Cummins shop. But I'll warn of usual prices for injector o-rings and parts. Rocky Mountain Cummins was going to charge me close to $800 for 6 new crossover tubes. So I typically suggest vendors first over Cummins...

Still factory OE water pump...

Do one injector at a time. I would highly suggest replacing all o-rings and sealing copper shims. If the tips are not covered will build up then there is very little to be gained. Now if the tips are coated in carbon fluff or ash deposits then I would consider cleaning. sad part is you won't know till you pull them.

Exactly. Warmer air doesn't need as much timing advancement. Warmer block has less thermal losses more power is produced (fractional but there). 10*F more coolant temp is not going to hurt anything on light duty daily driver. I would be a bit worried about towing in the summer time being I know I've tipped 215-217*F may times holding 1,200*F EGT's climbing long grades. Being diesel engine rely on the compression heat to ignite the fuel if there is more heat then fuel readily ignites easy. Being in the winter time intake temps can drop seriously low and hamper the ignition quality of fuels hence why cetane level are increased for starting performance. After engine warms up the high cetane fuel is a waste. The coolant and block heat should take over from that point helping to ignite the fuel. Most people go the other direction and go colder thermostat 180*F. This creates poor efficiency not enough to ignite the fuel properly to much thermal loss into the coolant jacket. This is strictly daily drivers...

Being I use generic yellow coolants I tend to flush out about every 50k miles. I don't trust the quoted 100k miles on jugs. I've seen systems with 100k and they are all lime scaled up inside and radiator is the same way. Mine is still absolutely perfect inside the block and radiator yet. HOAT coolant I'm not will to jump into because its too hard to get locally. 90% of the stores and shops around me use generic yellow coolant and no issues and common to find.

Oil filters will go into bypass mode. So the oil flow will continue regardless. I know some folks that barely put 3,000 miles on a year. Personally me I wouldn't push a oil filter past more than 10,000 miles. Owners manual shows schedule A capable of 7,500 miles.

Fan doesn't lock till 215*F so I doubt there is any loss... Ask Pepsi71Ocean he's been running his for 2 years straight as far as I know...

Not really... It's been test by a few folks on the east coast and works rather good. The coolant temps hang at about 197-199*F through the winter and MPG's are up slightly more from the added heat. I'm going to jump into this ring and do more test and see how it reacts too. Just a stock 6.7L t-stat that all.

LOL! Already got a BHAF now. The coolant has about 70k miles on it now. I'm going to swap out for 200*F thermostat this winter too. Increase the block temperature and manifold temperature through the winter. Also my water get shut off this next month due to freezing temperatures. So if I'm going to flush or wash anything I better do it soon. Typically run winter fronts too as long as I'm not towing. Next month I install the winter fronts.

Could you post up a PDF document or a link to what you've found...

(Shh!) Don't tell all my secrets!

Custom failed exhaust...

Heck you can always come up here I'll do them. For beer... Sure why not! I'll even supply the camping area. Ask JAG1 about that...

Just spent 2 days working on a motorhome rebuilding a A/C system on a 1985 Chevy G30. Now I can switch back the priority of getting my winter wood split and stacked in the shed. Maybe by the time snow starts to fly I can fix my ABS problem and flush my cooling system which is way over due.

Next chance I get time to play in my shop... So darn busy most of the time its unreal...

Its going to be in the tail section of the truck it will have nothing to do with the transmission temp gauge. Everything in that loom should be tail light and things of that nature.