Mopar1973Man

Sucks when you want to do brake work or wheel work like rotate tire now you got to back out of the shop and jack up off the ground again. When I was working with Lindy. The landlord had the collection of car he had a 4 post and always came over to Lindy 2 post because can't do axle or wheel work at all on a 4 post.

I like that. Another tidbit... I've had this happen to a customer truck and it was so simple to fix. If you happen to have o-rings form A/C work or just a o-ring kit you can swap them out in no time flat.

Like you I've got a low ceiling so 2 post lift is not in the works. Joking I've always said I was going to pour a pad put a 2 post outside. I know that won't happen either. I know that there is only a few month of the year where a person could work outside. After that its too hot, too cold, too wet, or too frozen. I do have a Big Buddy propane heater for the shop for the short periods of time I'm going to be out there. Like today the wood stove about cook us out of the shop. 2 arm loads of firewood and it was well on its way to 80-85 inside the shop.

The only problem there is typically a bad VP44 or PSG would make it random in nature of knock because of failure. But to have a good rhythm. Still that is cylinder based or valve based. Even weak injectors have a random hit / miss type of problem. Not unless the injector is stuck open or horrid pop pressures that way low. Even then would be starting issues from loss of prime.

So far the 2 lifts I've worked around I hate them. Neither one ever went high enough for me to work standing up. Always doing the splits and always racking my head on low hanging truck parts or the lift arms. Laying on a creep I can do it for hours. I'm 6'2" tall the the lift arms typically are right at 5'10" or so. That was really hard on my back.

Along Wild & Free idea I would pull the injectors out for pop testing and inspection. While they are out you can do compression test verify the engine health. Minimal impact and tear down but gives clues. Also while the valve cover is off you can check valve lash on the valves easy enough. Typically a bad injector would continue to smoke wouldn't it? (cracked tip or blown tip)

Good friend of mine needed a place to work out of the cold and of course he would call here... Nice wood heated shop and all the tools you might need for basic repairs.

From what I learned about looming. You want to start from your open ends and work inward on yourself. You start by doing all your small branches into the main loom bring a few wraps in the main loom. Then you start from one of the main loom and travel a bit over 50% of the way. Then reverse start a the other other and overlap in the center. This way all your plug ends will not unravel in a few months and you won't need zip ties then either. Some of the tidbits I learn doing cable assembly in California years ago... Also I've peeled a few looms in my day...

Better off just take the time remove the valve cover and inspecting by hand with the engine off. Start at TDC and check your rockers if any are really loose then look deeper. Possible but rare is bent push rod.\

Too much rhythm. It's not random. Metal to Metal tapping. That's why I think valve lash. Not to mention is running too smooth to be a fuel issue.

Valve lash...

I used to work with Adobe Illustrator CS4. Too bad Inkscape and Adobe don't mix...

That actual font of the Achieve Your Destination actually was suppose to mimic the old 1970's Challenger Font. In designing that I was keeping to a Mopar theme mix of old and new.

That's a good thing here...

Not bad CSM...

Impressive picture! I like the out come!

I just spent a bit of time with the gal that does the silk screen work. So I'm already working on get this into the store soon. Passed information on to the BoD and let them work with...

Just for show purpose. We want to keep the Mopar M, and the text just changing to the current title logo. So we are looking for a truck to replace mine. All the artwork has to vectored and reduced to about 5 colors. So like Me78569 mentions the shadows and reflections will cause issues in rendering in vector art form. Even 2 trucks in a V pattern would be awesome say 2nd and 3Gen's. Or 1st and 2nd gens... You get the idea...

If you clean it up good and seal with paint is better than leaving exposed and rusting. I'm also northern truck but to this day I've kept the rust at bay for 13 years heading for 14 years. Power washing and a Rustoleum or spray paint design for rust should aid in keeping it in good shape. Nothing last forever so its will require attention and touch up now and then.

I would say that you need to power wash the underside and get it dried up and the paint the underside with a good quality paint. Wow! The rust is horrid under that truck. As for rear blocks those are stock height. I've got the same ones.

Correct. I added larger watts fog lamps to spread more light about. The stock headlight are well "stock" rather limited unless you engineer something better like Me78569 did with his headlights.

The only fusible links I know on a 12V is the grid heaters and the one for the fuel solenoid that is it. Beyond that there should be fuses in the PDC or cab for protection of circuits.

Front steering you might want to pull the stock sagnaw steering box and do a adjustment or rebuild if leaking. There is two adjustments on the steering box and one of then has to be done outside the vehicle. It would be a good suggest to invest the $35 to $40 bucks in a seal kit rebuild it and readjust the box and you would have tight box once again with the huge cost of Redhead or other names.

Disconnecting the batteries will no reset anything software wise other than APPS values that the only thing it dumps.

Oil leaking past your turbo? Oil in the intercooler? Bad injector(s)? Might consider pop testing.