Mopar1973Man

Sucks to be you Dave... Low this morning of 33*F and hi of 47*F. I know down south its just a bit warmer.

Don't understand your last comment.

Another job dropped on my door step. Local gent was having issues with his Dakota with a misfire code P0304. It's the little V6 engine. So I told him to order the gasket for me and drop it off and I'll get it changed out. You'll notice the oil in the inside of the manifold which is typically when the plenum gasket fails. It will start drawing air from the cam valley drawing in little bits of oil. The owner also admits the truck had a K&N filter. You'll see the amount of grit and dirt let into the manifold. Little trick to pass along is while your scrapping the manifold gasket off take a shop vacuum and keep it near the area your working and the vacuum will pull in the bits of gasket material as you scrap. Nearly nothing for debris in the cam valley this way. When torquing the bolts for the plenum and the manifold you need a INCH / POUND torque wrench. Manifold is final torque at 12 FOOT / POUNDS or 144 INCH / POUNDS. The plenum is final torque 84 INCH / POUNDS. Nice part is when I fired it up the miss is gone and the CHECK ENGINE light went off by itself. Yes. I'll clear the codes to make sure the slate is clean.

I called the cable manufacture I had him break it into 2 batch so we can get them sooner.

Weather getting so mild I've pulled mine out so I can start cleaning up everything from winter time. Might sneak out soon for a trip south. I've got to re-seal around my clearance lights and some of the trim. Darn delamination in a few spots. It's all your fault Nick you started a trend...

Don't have to buy the expensive hydros either NAPA hydros are just as good just you have to bleed the system before installing. I still suggest bleeding even sealed systems because you never know how it's been handled before it got to you.

Good idea to have a CO2 detector. It would really suck to go out for your first camping trip and wake up "dead" from the CO2 killing you. The only reason I ask about the venting is we got the same heaters in our #3 fire station and eventually burning propane smell get over powering.

Question how does that heater vent the exhaust?

No effect at all. I'm changing both the AirDog and Stock fuel filters at 60k miles now. I've got roughly 47k miles on my current filters and fuel pressure is still strong. Here is my last change at 30k miles.

Not that they are wrong its that the Cummins Diesel sensor typically is not in the list. Now thw one you listed is a proper gasoline engine sensor.

Holy ____ !!! I guess i 'm not buying a NAPA sensor... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Switch/_/R-ECHOP6725_0464379499

IBMobile... Watch out. Those are gasser oil pressure sensors. I've made the same mistake. A Cummins oil pressure sensor typically sells for at least $100 bucks. Even NAPA Online miss list the sensors for our truck. It's off by one digit on the part number.

Absolutely. Very simple video but proves a good points. 2 Cycle oil leaves behind a lubricant for the engine to stay lubed up cylinder wise where cetane booster and other products tend possibly leave behind other soot debris. Now take notice of the other thing in the video is time of burn. The 2 cycle oil burns slower and longer being it has way more BTU's per quantity vs most fuel additives. As cetane goes up the fuel goes down in BTU's. So 2 Cycle Oil will produce more work vs. high cetane boosted fuels. Take notice every winter when fuel cetane spikes high for the winter time everyone loses MPG's. Why? Simply put the BTUs went down and the working force of the fuel was lost. So now as summer comes and cetane lowers again MPG rises. http://www.fuelexpert.co.za/2strokeoilindiesel.php As for the link site... https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sasolburg,+South+Africa/@-31.4049951,26.4103857,5z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x1e945e71a359dc29:0xa333dd792f4638a6 Again... South Africa has different vehicle and fuel requirements and also fuel standards... 0a. lastupdate : 2015/02/07 11:40:09+02 0b. emailsource : domain@fuelexpert.co.za 0c. emailposted : Fri, 6 Feb 2015 10:43:46 +0200 0d. emailsubject : fuelexpert.co.za 0g. historycount : 4 0h. invoiceno : 0 0i. contracttype : NEW 0j. rcsversion : $Revision: 4.18 $ $Date: 2015-01-20 10:05:00 $ 1a. domain : fuelexpert.co.za 1b. action : U 1c. Registrar : ZACR 2a. registrant : Fuel Expert 2b. registrantpostaladdress: ,-, , , -- 2c. registrantstreetaddress: 2d. amount : 0.00 2e. paymenttype : I 2f. billingaccount : Fuel Expert 2g. billingemail : domain@fuelexpert.co.za 2i. invoiceaddress : Sasolburg 2j. registrantphone : +27.166483707 2k. registrantfax : 2l. registrantemail : domain@fuelexpert.co.za 2n. vat : 3b. cname : 3c. cnamesub1 : 3d. cnamesub2 : 3e. creationdate : 2010/09/27 14:22:55 4a. admin : Fuel Expert 4b. admintitle : 4c. admincompany : Fuel Expert 4d. adminpostaladdr : Sasolburg 4e. adminphone : +27.166483707 4f. adminfax : 4g. adminemail : domain@fuelexpert.co.za 4h. adminnic : 5a. tec : Fuel Expert 5b. tectitle : 5c. teccompany : Fuel Expert 5d. tecpostaladdr : Sasolburg 5e. tecphone : +27.166483707 5f. tecfax : 5g. tecemail : domain@fuelexpert.co.za 5h. tecnic : 6a. primnsfqdn : ns1.stablehost.com 6b. primnsip : 6c. primnsipv6 : 6e. secns1fqdn : ns2.stablehost.com 6f. secns1ip : 6g. secns1ipv6 : 6i. secns2fqdn : 6j. secns2ip : 6k. secns2ipv6 : 6m. secns3fqdn : 6n. secns3ip : 6o. secns3ipv6 : 6q. secns4fqdn : 6r. secns4ip : 6s. secns4ipv6 : 8a. netblock1start : 8b. netblock1end : 8c. netblock2start : 8d. netblock2end : 8e. netblock3start : 8f. netblock3end : 9a. description1 : 9b. description2 : 9c. description3 : 9d. description4 : 9e. description5 : 9f. description6 :

Master ground for the main computers is on the passenger battery for the ECM, PCM and VP44.

Here is the wiring for it...

Sounds like EPA hype... I've seen that one before. Being I'm over 200k miles on 2 cycle oil and no such injector fouling has occurred. No injection pump or injector failures. Their stated HFRR results are wrong too. When you do a search for any US manufactured diesel fuel you find ALL US fuels state they score 520 HFRR typically. Back to Bosch standards which is 450 HFRR or less. Now are playing ball in our own nation and US fuels do NOT meet the designed requirement of Bosch Injection Systems. But if you look at the study they are all over the map and vague. Let talk about US diesel fuel and US vehicle requirements and things change. But now go global and toss in the differences between EU and US in diesel fuel standards and vehicle requirements worlds of difference. What US 520 HFRR Fuels can do. 80k miles on 2 cycle oil.

So he's got training wheels...

Why not just drive the Cummins? Fuel is cheap...

You might grab a GPS and compare your Speedometer and odometer for error. The gearing difference cause by the tires will change shift points and lockup. Might check with a GPS to see if the calibration is right. So many people assume that programming the tire size will be correct. Then find out afterwards the speedometer is still off because brand A and brand B 35" tires might differ by 0.5+/- so the revs per mile can be different. Just like my example 235's vs 265's is only 1 rev per mile difference by my Garmin GPS V can see the 0.5 MPH difference. Even my ScanGauge II can show a odometer error between the two.

Now its a oil with the expense of full synthetic you got to dump because of a leak. Just like all synthetic oil users they won't let go of that expensive oil even when they need to. So you got the choice of living with the leak and constantly adding oil to the engine (adding up cost) or dump the entire thing and fix the oil leak (another expensive oil change). Bad idea is trying to capture and reuse the oil. Too much risk in falling debris landing in your catch bucket/pan.

Out here since good fuel is long way in between so I typically go for quality name brand fuels and skip the Mom & pop places just too risky. So at times I do run below 1/4 down to Empty if I know I can make it to a large city or quality place.

If it was standard petroleum it wouldn't matter just do an oil change...

I did tank drop removal and then installed a old school draw straw and still retain the full use of my tank right down to Empty and no real 1/4 issues everyone cries about. As you'll see my tip looks like its touching the bottom but its really not. It the thickness of a quarter between the tip and the tank bottom at empty. Now as a I fuel the bottom deflects downward and away from the tip. Diesel fuel is roughly 6.5 pounds per gallon so 10 gallons will be 60 pounds of weight so the bottom deflect a good 1/8". Also notice there is no wild angle cuts or anything weird with the tip other that 4 small notches added.

I've seen a TSB about using a bead of silicone sealant for the rear part of the pan. Did you use a sealant on the oil pan gasket? A light color block paint would of help seeing the path of othe oil leak. I think I've mention this before...

Even with my AirDog I kept my old Big Line Kit from Vulcan so I've got the fittings and wiring extension so I can hook a stock pump in with little effort. Unscrew the AirDog lines and hook up the stock pump and electrical. Done. Still operating on the 1/2 line and still removed all the junk banjos. But still have an option for stock or aftermarket. With any upgrade pump you will have to change the pickup assembly in the tank you have no choice. Even the stock non-pump sender is not big enough for any lift pumps.