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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. We had a long running thread about the Raptor pump and one guy found the seals and bearing, brushes everything to rebuild it.
  2. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Engine
    Valve Lash Adjustment The first thing you need to do is pull the valve covers off the engine. You'll need a socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolts till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve covers will come off. Just lift the 6 covers straight up. Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) using the timing pin found under the injection pump. Mopar's Notes Once TDC found using the timing pin mark the damper and the gear case in one spot denoting TDC. There is a reason for this... Now check the rocker arms on number 1 cylinder. both should be loose at this point. If not check both rockers on cylinder number 6. If cylinder number 6 is loose then your 360° out on the crank, so rotate another 360° till you line up on your TDC marks again. WARNING! Be sure that the timing pin is pulled out of the gear before rotating the engine. Otherwise damage to the timing pin will occur! Here is the valve clearance measurement Valve Clearance Exhaust Valves 0.020 Inches Intake Valves 0.010 Inches But if you followed my suggestion above now you wouldn't need to mess with that pin anymore! But for making things simple we'll start at TDC of number 1 cylinder with both rockers loose. Step 1 Cylinder Number Exhaust Valves 1,3,5 Intake Valves 1,2,4 now rotate the engine crank 360° again so now cylinder number 6 rockers should be loose. Using your new timing marks on the damper. Step 2 Cylinder Number Exhaust Valves 2,4,6 Intake Valves 3,5,6 Now reassemble the valve covers.
  3. Error Codes (Flash Codes) Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes When the check engine light comes on and stays on (after start-up), this indicates that a code (or codes) has been stored in memory. To retrieve this information for purpose of troubleshooting, cycle the ignition switch ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within five seconds. The check engine lamp will then flash the DTC(s). Each code, if there is more than one, will be preceded by a 4 second pause, to distinguish it from the previous code. An example of a DTC would be as follows: * Lamp on for 2 seconds, then turns off. * Lamp flashes 4 times, then pauses, then flashes 1 more time. * Lamp pauses 4 seconds, then flashes 4 times. * Lamp flashes 7 times. The two DTC's displayed, following the two second pause, were 41 and 47. Whenever the malfunction indicator is operated, as many DTC's as are in memory will be displayed. At the end of the sequence, it will flash 55, which indicates it is the end of the stored codes. Mopar1973Man Note: Its still suggested to used a code reader. These errors are very general in description. A normal code reader will show more information. Like error code 43 Ignition coil circuit could be a misfire code (P0300 to P0310) when a error code reader is used you can see the cylinder number. Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes When the problem has been sorted out and repaired, you will have to erase the DTC(s) from memory to shut off the CHECK ENGINE light. The proper way to erase is with the DRBII scan tool, or equivalent. If you do not have access to this tool you will have to take the vehicle to a shop that does. If the cause for the blown trouble code is indeed repaired, the memory will automatically be cleared by the engine controller after 50 start-ups. Mopar1973Man Note: Better explanation at this link. Diagnostic Trouble Code Check Engine Light DRB Scan Tool Display Description of DTC 11 No No crank reference signal at PCM No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. 12 No None Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected with the last 50 key on cycles. 13 Yes No change in MAP from start to run No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the atmospheric pressure reading at start up. 14 Yes MAP sensor voltage too high or too low. MAP sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 15 Yes No vehicle speed sensor signal No vehicle distance (speed) sensor detected during road load conditions. 17 No Engine is cold to long Engine coolant temperature remains below normal operating temperatures during vehicle travel. (Faulty thermostat) 21 Yes O² sensor at center Neither rich or lean condition detected from the oxygen sensor input. 22 Yes ECT sensor voltage to high or too low. .Engine Coolant Temperature sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 23 Yes IAT sensor voltage to high or too low Intake Air Temperature sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 24 Yes TPS sensor voltage to high or too low Throttle Position Sensor voltage above or below acceptable voltage. 25 Yes Idle Air Control motor circuits A shorted condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. 27 No Injector control circuits (1-8) Injector (1-8) output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. 31 Yes EVAP solenoid circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the EVAP solenoid circuit. 32 Yes EGR solenoid circuit EGR failure An open or shorted condition detected in the Exhaust Gas Recirculation solenoid circuit. A mechanical problem found in the EGR system. (Vacuum leak, defective EGR valve, plugged EGP tube, etc.) 33 No A/C clutch relay circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the Air Conditioning clutch circuit. 34 No Speed control circuits Speed control switch always high or low An open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum and vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input above or below acceptable voltage. 37 Yes Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit Trans temp to high or too low An open or shorted condition detected in the CKT solenoid circuit. Voltage to high or too low at the trans temp sensor. 41 Yes Generator field not switch properly An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit. 42 No Auto Shutdown Relay control circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the ASD relay circuit. 43 Yes Ignition coil circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the EVAP solenoid circuit. (Mis-fire code) 44 No Battery temp sensor volt out of limits An open or shorted condition detected in the engine coolant sensor circuit or a problem exist in the PCM's battery temp voltage circuit. 45 No Trans overdrive solenoid circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the trans overdrive solenoid circuit. 46 Yes Charging system voltage too high Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation. 47 Yes Charging system voltage too low Battery voltage sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation. 51 Yes System lean adap at rich limit Oxygen sensor signal input indicates lean air/fuel ratio condition. 52 Yes System rich adap at lean limit Oxygen sensor signal input indicates rich air/fuel ratio condition. 53 No Internal PCM failure PCM failure SPI (Serial Peripheral Interface) PCM internal fault detected. PCM internal fault detected. 54 No No cam sync signal at PCM No fuel sync (camshaft signal) detected during engine cranking. 55 No Not display on DRB scan tool A DTC #55 is used to end all DTC messages. This code indicates a completion of all DTC's displayed on the Check Engine Light. 62 No PCM Failure SRI miles not stored Unsuccessful attempt to update SRI (service reminder indicator) miles in the EEPROM. 63 No PCM Failure EEPROM write denial Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM.
  4. I know there is a thread on here from way back about 2 years where we discussed about Raptor fuel pump and seals some one found all this stuff and now I would like to look into it.
  5. Something to be aware of. If you got to do APPS reset too much you have the first signs of a bad alternator. All the APPS reset does is allow the ECM to see the voltage at idle and WOT. So as for your question about reset again for the pump you shouldn't have too.
  6. As long as the high idle software is enabled shouldn't matter which programmer or module you use.
  7. Yeah there is... That little SUV could of slowed down and just stayed in the right lane and never lost control. I've watch tons of this kind of Youtubes 99% of all accidents are people traveling to fast for conditions. So here is mister Semi driver minding his own business, here comes "I'm in Hurry SUV Driver" bouncing off the other delievery truck and into the path of mister Semi. I still see out here with completely snow cover or black ice highways watching little cars attempting to hold speed limit.
  8. Lost Valley Reservoir Summer of 2015
  9. Still after washing I re-coat the terminal with engine oil again. There is only two material that I know of that sulphric acid will not eat. Glass and plastic. Plastic is made from what? Petroleum. Grease works but you'll end up with the grease on your shirt or arm while working on your truck. Engine oil will fade away leaving a thin film that prevents acid from oxidizing the terminals. Take notice to the picture above the positive terminal is black and got corrosion blooms on the copper and steel. This is a sign of acid contact and oxidizing the metals. Like lead oxide is that black coating. It's resistive to current flow typically you know by touch the terminals they could be warm to hot to the touch.
  10. Secret... Lightly coat all lead terminal surface with engine oil not grease. 13 years later still like new... What I typically see roll in my shop...
  11. I would park that truck till you can verify the fuel pressure. I just got done rescuing a truck yesterday where his fuel pump would just stop pumping doing exactly what you say low power and white smoke. You need that fuel pressure gauge like now! Do you have a error code reader that can reset codes? You might consider reseting the codes and re-test drive it again and see if the codes are real for the APPS. Might have to ohm test between the ECM and APPS. Again jump over to the error code page and do the diagnostics to verify. Yeah you can unplug the wiring and hook up stock to see if the P0237 code stays away. Grid heater relays get there ground from PDC then to the battery ground as seen in the wiring map.
  12. Cobbled up it sounds like. Grid heater delete is going to make it hard starting and keeping it running. Fuel pressure is fairly low in the 1st gens like about 6-7 PSI tops. I know Cowboy should be in later tonight and give some more feedback on this.
  13. Edge Comp and the P0237 is problem more than likely the boost fooler failed in the Edge Comp. Double check your grid heater relays make sure the wires are all attached. That is the P0382... APPS sensor appears to be junk. P0121, P0122 and P0222. Then a timing error P0216 on the VP44. What's your fuel pressure?
  14. That amount of weight you really do NEED a pyrometer I still think your running way too hot for the weight you got. Once you get the gauge you see what I mean about keeping it cool.
  15. What's the weight of your trailer? Towing my 8,000 pound RV I can climb most 6-7% grades in 4th gear (1:1 ratio). So for your truck with automatic it would be OD OFF and you would be the same gear. Now speed wise I typically climb at about 53 MPH which is right at 2,000 RPM's. There is only a few times I've had to back down to 3rd gear and climb at 35 MPH. Take an example from the truckers. They don't climb grades slow because of lack of power but controlling EGT's and coolant temperatures.
  16. Absolutely. Our diesel truck could flatten a Smart Car or Pirus without much effort. These tiny light weight cars are not that strong. They are build with economy in mine so everything is lighter, thinner, less metal, less structure... All in the name of fuel economy. Like just quick search for Smart Car weight its only 1,800 pounds. Majority of the weight is the fuel, engine and transmission. That leaves very little to the structure of the vehicle. Heck even the little Dodge Pickup I drove yesterday I think it was a Dakota. Take about light weight truck. Same body design but smaller and lighter in standard cab design. Too me it felt a bit thin and marginal for safety. On the ice it was nearly worthless nothing enough weight to gain traction. Now you step up to my beast and newer your talking about nearly 4 tons of rolling missile. Steel frame, heavy duty everything, etc. We've got better protection that most hybrids or economy vehicles. Still a accident involving a 18 wheeler might be deadly still but we got a much better chance of survival. Being I'm certified for extrication for the Fire Department I've had my fair share of cutting people out of vehicles. Typically the economy vehicles are pretty gruesome. Most of the full size pickup fair better and some haven't. Just depends on the circumstance of the accident.
  17. Now I got to ask what is your pyrometer reading during this time? Do you even have pyrometer? Like the gent I was working with yesterday complained about the very same problem. Towing his jet boat up a steep mountain grade from the Snake River and complaining about high coolant temps. Of course he's without a pyrometer and no way to know if he's over doing it. I know for a fact a "Completely Stock" truck can exceed 1,400*F in EGT's towing heavy loads. Anything over 1,100*F in EGT's you'll see a sharp climb in coolant temperature. My current ISSPro EV2 I programmed the warning light for 1,200*F so anything beyond that will trip the warning light. I typically back off to about 1,100*F which gives that buffer room for possible error of the pyrometer probe.
  18. That one reason I own these two Dodge Rams. I've got some metal around me.
  19. I got a call from a local gent that I done work for in the past. I replaced his lift pump and injection pump on his 1999 Dodge Ram. He called up today and told me of his tale of limping to New meadows and having the truck die on him. What he described was low fuel pressure with weak power. I told him to come and pick me up and we would roll out and look it over. After checking over the basic stuff I'm not hearing the Raptor lift pump running. I opened a test port and purged the system and it barely crawled up to 5 PSI. Ok. So I cranked up the regulator and got it up to 20 PSI for now to get it home. It last about 2 block and got weak again. Hmmm... Test gauge again... Fired it up and it ran for about 1 minute and the lift pump died 0 PSI. So we shut down. I knew I had a spare lift pump at home. So ran 20 miles back home grab a few odds and ends and that stock new lift pump. (Thanks to Bry1216)So ran back out and cobbled it together again using some of the Raptor plumbing and the stock. Got him up and running. But during those 2 trip back in forth I got plenty of time to school him up on why a fuel pressure gauge. He's now sold on the idea. Maybe we'll be lucky to see him show up as a member here. I told him to join up and talk with the rest of the crew here.
  20. I don't have the original keyed lock anymore it was replace once before already. As for the new one its going be here on the 18th so I've got a entire week to wait.
  21. First off... The far right tick is about 225*F coolant temp. Then of course the red tick is 240*F. I don't sweat till it leaves the operational span. Even then I've only ever reached 218*F dragging my RV over grades in 100*F heat.
  22. Well I made a few mistakes. But still come to find out I need the lock too. Basically you need a T20 Torx screwdriver. Remove the 3 screws in the bottom of the column. Remove the tilt steering release knob. Remove both plastic covers. My screw up was I misplaced my security bits and found later after doing this next step. I took a center punch and broke the security pins out of the center of the Torx screws. So you need either a T20 security bit or take a center punch and break the center pins out. So what you need to do is remove the locking screw from the switch. My misfortune is that the lock assembly is also damaged. So I've made a phone call to the local NAPA store to find out the lock is $85 bucks. None in stock. So I found the lock cylinder on RockAuto.Com for $34 shipped.
  23. Ask Fish & Game what kind of experiments they are doing?
  24. Good old "Dripley" can tell stories of how his blew the entire tank off the one side of the radiator... If its in the plastic I say replacement time. Just for the safety value.
  25. If its in the plastic tank it most likely a crack forming...

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