Mopar1973Man

MSDS Sheets and Information Diesel Fuel Additives MSDS Sheets Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement + Cetane Boost Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost Diesel 911 - Diesel Fuel Additive Power Service Products FAQ AMSOil Master MSDS Index Page Cetane Boost Additive For Diesel Fuel Diesel Concentrate Fuel Additive Cold Flow Improver Schaeffer's Master MSDS Index Page Diesel Treat 2000 Diesel Treat Winter Turtle Wax Marvel Mystery Oil MSDS Lucas Oil Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant Stanadyne Master MSDS Index Page Performance Formula Lubricity Formula STP STP Diesel Fuel Treatment Howes Lube Howes Lubricator Diesel Treat Diesel Fuel Specifications and MSDS Sheets Chevron Phillips Chemical Co. - http://www.cpchem.com TDS Sheet Diesel Test Fuel Specifications Summary MSDS Sheets Diesel 2007 ULSD (7-15 ppm) Emission Certification Fuel No Sulfur (<3 ppm) Diesel Test Fuel (Developmental) Cenex Energy - http://www.cenexenergy.com TDS Sheet Master TDS Index Page #2 Diesel Specifications #1 Diesel Specifications MSDS Sheets Master MSDS Index Page #2 Diesel Fuel #1 Diesel Fuel 2 Cycle Oil MSDS Sheets Phillips 66 - http://p66conoco76.conocophillips.com TDS Sheet 2 Cycle Oil - Philips 66 Injex MSDS Sheet 2 Cycle Oil - Philips 66 Injex Walmart SuperTech Unverisal 2 Cycle Oil -http://www.pennzoil.com/ MSDS Sheet Walmart SuperTech Unverisal 2 Cycle Oil SuperTech Outboard 2 Cycle TCW-3 Engine Oil -http://www.pennzoil.com/ MSDS Sheet SuperTech Outboard 2 Cycle TCW-3 Engine Oil

BTU Values for fuels and chemicals Fuel Type BTU's 2 Cycle Oil 138,000 BTU / Gallon #2 Diesel Fuel (40 Cetane) 133,000 BTU / Gallon #2 Diesel Fuel (45 Cetane) 129,000 BTU / Gallon #1 Diesel Fuel (53 Cetane) 126,000 BTU / Gallon Conventional gasoline 116,090 BTU / Gallon Propane 84,250 BTU / Gallon Ethanol 76,330 BTU / Gallon Methanol 57,250 BTU / Gallon Mineral Spirits 19,000 BTU / Pound Xylene 18,651 BTU / Pound Benzene 18,184 BTU / Pound Acetylene 21,502 BTU / Pound Naphthalene 17,303 BTU / Pound Naptha 15,000 BTU / Pound ASTM Labs Grading Scale of Diesel Fuel So is it possible that any kind of cetane booster / injection cleaner containing these chemicals can IMPROVE you performance? It's impossible. They have a considerable reduction in BTUvalue and extremely low flash points like gasoline. Please take the time and look up your favorite additive in my MSDS listing. Furthermore, for those of you that are switched to BIO Diesel / Ethanol fuels (Gasser). Take notice that both fuels produce less power compared to the Dino version. So it will reduce your fuel mileage some... The higher the BTU value the higher HP/TQ number and MPG numbers you'll net from your vehicle. So this also proves that cetane booster will increase the cetane level for sure, but it will decrease the BTUs and HP/TQ... This explains why in the winter time when they increase the cetane to 45 or better the MPG decreases. It because the BTUs were lost with the cetane booster added to the fuel. So this proves without a doubt a 40 cetane provides more power than45 cetane fuel. Quick Story... While I was at the Dyno when I got my results above. A friend of mine ran a very popular brand cetane booster in the main tank mix with the two-cycle oil at 128:1. When he ran the dyno on the two cycle and cetane booster, he lost about 15 HP/30 TQ from it. So he switched over to his auxiliary. Tank and ran just the two-cycle oil. The result was he gain back plus about 5 HP.So increasing the cetane level of your fuel doesn't mean you gain power it actually will decrease it!

Introduction I've been adding two-cycle oil to my diesel fuel for about 110,000+ miles. So far, I've found outthat it has improved a few things like engine noise is reduced; fuel mileage increased, andknowing the fuel system is being lubricated is always a plus! I've been adding 128:1 ratio every time I fill up with fuel. So if I pump 20-25 gallons, I'll add a20-25 ounces of two-cycle oil It makes it 128:1 ratio of fuel to two-cycle oil This is relatively lowratio and with not cause any harm engine as far as I have known. There is another reason why I'm adding two-cycle oil to my fuel. It because of EPA changingthe sulfur levels in the diesel fuel. This will reduce the lubricity. Knowing that Bosch VP44injection pumps are a touchy subject you might as well add oil to the fuel. More Information on ULSD... First, I want to concentrate on the loss of the sulfur and why this is important to you. Sulfur isan Extreme Pressure (EP) lubricant. It is regularly added to lubricating oils and greases toincrease the lubricity and to raise the amount of pressure that the lubricant can handle beforethe lubricating molecular barrier begins to break down. Sulfur has always been a vitallyimportant factor in providing lubrication to fuel injection pump, fuel injectors, and to lesserdegree engine valves. The reduction now being made takes on-highway diesel from less than 500 ppm to fewer than15 ppm, which for all practical purposes eliminates sulfur as a lubricant in the fuel. Sulfur is a... Extreme pressure additive. Applications under extreme pressure conditions rely on additives.Lubricants containing additives that protect against extreme pressure are called EP lubricants,and oils containing additives to protect against extreme pressure are classified as EP oils. EPlubrication is provided by a number of chemical compounds. The most common are compoundsof boron, phosphorus, sulfur, chlorine, or combinations of these. The compounds are activatedby the higher temperature resulting from extreme pressure, not by the pressure itself. As thetemperature rises, EP molecules become reactive and release derivatives of phosphorus,chlorine, or sulfur (depending on which compound is used) to react with only the exposed metalsurfaces to form a new compound such as iron chloride or iron sulfide. The new compoundforms a solid protective coating that fills the asperities on the exposed metal. Thus, theprotection is deposited at exactly the sites where it is needed. AW agents in the EP oilcontinue to provide anti wear protection at sites where wear and temperature are not highenough to activate the EP agents. Unusually heavy loading will cause the fuel temperature to increase beyond the effective rangeof the anti wear protection. When the load limit is exceeded, the pressure becomes too greatand asperities make contact with greater force. Instead of sliding, asperities along the wearsurfaces experience shearing, removing the lubricant and the oxide coating. Under theseconditions, the coefficient of friction is greatly increased and the temperature rises to adamaging level. Testing Fuels Lubricity There are several methods of determining lubricity in fuels. The most common are: Ball on Cylinder Lubricity Evaluator (BOCLE), Scuffing Load on Ball Lubricity Evaluator (SLBOCLE), and High Frequency Reciprocating Rig (HFRR). The HFRR has emerged as the world standard and has been adopted by the ASTM and all of the engine manufacturers as the de-facto standard for measuring lubricity of fuels. HFRR ratings are counter-intuitive with the lower number showing better lubricity than a higher number. On an HFRR test the number given is a measurement of the scar diameter (microns) produced during the test. The larger the scar diameter, the lower the lubricity, the smaller the scar the better the lubricity Here is a few ASTM HFRR Standards... Product Sulfur Percentage Sulfur ppm HFRR Rating High Sulfur Diesel #2 0.5 - 2% 5,000 - 20,000 ppm 300-390 HFRR Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.05% 500 ppm 350-500 HFRR Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.0015% 15 ppm 520 HFRR Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #1 0.0015% 15 ppm 520 HFRR In the matter of Lubricity the ASTM after many years of discussion, has set its standard at HFRR 520 for diesel fuel as a minimum. Amount of lubricant in diesel fuel at 1 Gallon and 35 Gallons of ULSD diesel fuel. Product Sulfur Percentage Quantity Of Lubricant (35 Gallons) Quantity of Lubricant (1 Gallon) High Sulfur Diesel #2 0.5 - 2% 22.4 - 89.6 Ounces 0.64 - 2.56 Ounces Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.05% 2.24 Ounces 0.064 Ounces Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.0015% 0.0672 Ounces 0.00192 Ounces Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #1 0.0015% 0.0672 Ounces 0.00192 Ounces When you look at it from this stand point the amount of lubricants have been reduced to next to nothing. Updated: Jan 03 2007 I'm still researching products and more researching I do the further I keep finding that dieselsadditive are using mineral spirits, xylene, naphtha as an anti-gel and/or cetane booster.However, remember these chemicals are NOT lubricants. I'm also finding that some of thechemicals that they are using in fuel conditioners are cancer causing and have high healthhazards. Like I told one user on Cummins Forum, I've got a whole gallon of Xylene in the shopfor paint thinner, but I won't add that to my diesel fuel! We are trying to find additives to add to our fuel that contains lubricants and not thinners. Withthe HFRR score set on ULSD and lack of lubricants it has the last thing your injection pumpwants is more thinners. The whole idea is to put more lubricants in the fuel. I got to admit allthe above chemicals would break down the waxy chains of diesel fuel and improve the pourpoint. However, It comes with a price of enhanced wear on your fuel system. So far, I haven'tfound any kind of product that is like 2 cycle oil for properties. Mix ratio for 2 cycle Oil The easiest way to remember the mix ratio for two-cycle oil for your truck is 1 ounce of oil forevery gallon of fuel. So basically if you put 20 gallons of fuel in you need 20 ounces of oil. Thiswill work out to about 128:1 ratio, which is very safe to use! This is just for information purpose. Cummins authorize up to 5% of WEO (waste engine oil) to be blended into diesel fuel. Knowingthis now you can add up to 1.75 gallons of two-cycle oil in a 35-gallon tank. However, I wouldonly stick to using two-cycle oil and mixing 1 oz of oil to 1 gallon of fuel... Update! How is Diesel Fuel Transported and Handled - April 18, 2007 I found some interesting document about the way that diesel fuel is shipped and I'm going to share these document with you... http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/notice.pdf <- Some information on how diesel fuel is now shipped. http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/hor.pdf <- More on how diesel fuel is handled. http://www.ncagr.com/standard/diesellubricityenforcementpolicyletter11504.pdf <- How North Carolina is handling diesel fuel. Basically, diesel fuel after being refined is well above the 520 HFRR rating which isunacceptable by any standards. So it's up to the delivery personnel to add the lubricantpackage to the truck before delivery. Currently, I cannot find anything that insures that saiddelivery of diesel fuel will comply with the HFRR 520 limits. As far I see there is no test of thefuel after its loaded on the truck to ensure it is within compliance or if the additive package waseven added. Like North Carolina is saying, "It is our understanding that currently 40% to 60% of the diesel fuel supply meets the new standard without the addition of a lubricity additive." Now how are weas consumers to be sure that the lubricant package was used when it's needed? I'm sure thedelivery personnel are not testing every truck load of diesel before it delivered to your local fuelstation. RAW DIESEL FACTS - BEFORE A ADDITIVE PACKAGE Ultra Low Sulfur #2 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 600-800. Ultra Low Sulfur #1 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 700-900. Remember: 1000 Microns = 0.039369999999999995 Inch As you can see above raw untreated USLD diesel is well outside the range of the 520 HFRR limit. It requires a additive package. But once again the is no regulation that insure that package was added to the truck in proper quantity for that load. Now saying this... I know there isn't a single diesel additive product on the market today that can promise to improve the diesel fuel lubricity below 520 HFRR level! Especially if its untreated diesel fuel with a HFRR value of 700-900!!! Just something to think about when you buying a fuel additive. But I know that 2 cycle oil is reducing that number for sure! Update! Winter Time Performance of 2 Cycle Oil - April 30, 2007 For starters my lowest temperature around here was recorded at -20.2*F (-29*C) on January 16, 2007 in New Meadows, Idaho. This was recorded by my on-board thermometer which hold histories of HI and LO temps for both inside and out. During this entire season I never use a single anti-gel product on the market. Just diesel fuel and 2 cycle oil. Now remember above in the specs sheet for ULSD the gel point is 0*F. Now think about it. A snowmobile runs on a mixture of about 40:1 to 50:1 gasoline and 2 cycle oil. This very same snowmobile must run in extreme temperatures down as low as -40*F (40*C) and maybe lower. But what I want to point out here is... There is no problem with 2 cycle oil gelling up in a snowmobile in extreme temperatures as low as -40*F (-40*C) With mixtures as low as 40:1 a high performance snowmobile runs great. There is no reason why a 128:1 mixture in you diesel truck would lose performance to that mixture. Knowing that 2 cycle oil is lubricating your entire system compared to using a harsh solvent (that thins the lubricants) to breakdown the wax of diesel to keep the fuel flowing. Remember that very same snowmobile has no other lubrication system on board only the 2 cycle oil in the fuel to lube the entire engine. So it a prefect lubricant for your fuel system on your diesel truck. As you can see I've go no loss of power or economy with the use of 2 cycle oil. All I got is high points! Think about it most people see a decrease in fuel mileage during the winter time. I'm not seeing much of a decrease this winter between the Edge Comp and the 2 Cycle Oil used in my fuel. As for IP and LP pumps. I'm currently got 43K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump with no problems so far. Then I got 10K miles on my current carter Campaign pump. Which still got 11-12 @ WOT yet! Update! Using 2 Cycle Oil in ULSD Designed Trucks (2007+ Diesel Vehicles) - April 30, 2007 I would highly suggest that no one uses 2 cycle oil in a vehicle that is already designed for ULSD. These engines have some very expensive equipment on board like diesel particulate filters etc. These device are not cheap to replace. Also remember this might or will VOID your warranty on your truck. These engine have been redesigned to be run on fuel that are very low in lubricants (Sulfur content). UPDATE! May 19, 2007- 2 Cycle Oil And The DynoJet... Well there has been a lot of talk about 2 cycle oil hurting to HP/TQ numbers. Well I'm here to set the records straight for once and for all... First off let me lay down some baseline information. You all have seen my web page on my BOMBs and MODs I've done. Ok... We all know that the 2002 Cummins SO is rated for 235 HP 460TQ at the flywheel. Run #1 - Stock mode with Edge Comp Turned off. 228 HP - 462 TQ Well this proves there is very little drag between the flywheel to the rear end. Also this proves there was very little improvement in HP/TQ number concerning 2 cycle oil. I'm using conventional Dino lubes in everything except the transmission which requires the Castrol SynTorque. But still even this number is high for HP/TQ at the rear wheels... 2 Cycle oil maybe??? Run #2 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5 379 HP - 831 TQ Run #3 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5 381 HP - 826 TQ Ok we all know the Edge Comp give about 120 HP on 5x5 setting but now do the math. 381 - 228 = 153 - 120 = 33 HP difference! Where did this power come from? I got no other fueling enhancements and only a BHAF and straight piped exhaust 3"... Stock injectors, stock turbo, stock Bosch VP44 injection pump and lift pumps. As for my fuel / 2 cycle oil ratio he is what I had. I filled up with 26.306 gallons of diesel fuel and poured in 32 ounces of 2 cycle oil (SuperTech Outboard). So that means... 26.306 (Gallons) x 128 = 3,367.168 Ounces of fuel. 3,367.168 / 32 Ounces Of Oil = 105.224:1 Ratio of diesel Fuel to Oil. I admit this is a bit heavy mixture of 2 cycle oil to fuel. But I've been getting a bit lazy about measuring my oil so if I'm nearly empty I would add the full quart regardless. It's got to be the 2 cycle oil helping the burn of the fuel.. So never the less I'm a extremely happy camper and will continue to use 2 cycle oil in my fuel. Is 2 Cycle Oil Safe For My Cummins? Yes. Two cycle oil is safe for all Dodge Cummins engines from 989 to 2006. This concept wasdesign around the Bosch VP44 injection pump but works fine with Bosch VE Injection pumps,Bosch P700 Injection pumps, Bosch VP44 Injection pumps, and Bosch Common Rail fuelinjection. However, it is not safe to use two-cycle oil in any vehicle with a DPF or EGR system.As for my own truck, I'm at 8K miles on the clock on Feb 25th 2011, and my injection pumphas 3K miles at this time still doing great and producing plenty of power and good MPGs aswell. Will 2 Cycle Oil Plug Up My Fuel System? In a simple answer, No. Two cycle oil will mix with normal #2 diesels and stay mixed. It will notseparate nor plug up filters or injectors. Here is a single injector after 80K miles in my truck withsolely two-cycle oil no other additives or injector cleaners. The rest of them looked the same. Then here is what WEO/WMO or ATF looks like after a short period. (From another Cummins owner) Can you just imagine what the combustion chamber looks like? What's Wrong With Using ATF In The Fuel? ATF from the 1970s was nothing more than red dyed hydraulic oil. That's it. Today's ATF has so many additives, like friction modifiers, anti-scorching compounds, etc.These compounds are designed to retard burning of the ATF in your transmission so why wouldyou think it would burn good as a fuel? Then the other side of the coin like looking at thepictures above the ash level in ATF is high and will leave deposits on your injectors like abovethis will cause performance issues later in life for the engine. The other problem is ATF is redso after adding to your fuel you now got a tank of red dye untaxed off-road diesel, and youmight have a tough explaining away the ATF fluid to a DOT inspector. What's Wrong With Using Waste Engine Oil In The Fuel? If you got over to the HFRR testing of the fuel additive, you'll find the results of running wasteengine oil was rather poor. Then the other problem of all the debris that is in the waste engineoil. A normal oil filter filters down to 20-30 micron range, which is not good for the VP44injection pumps or Common Rail Injectors. Both fuel system need fuels that are very clean inthe range of 10 microns or less. Like the ATF, the ash content is off the scale as well.

would like to thank Jonesie from www.thedieselgarage.com for taking the time and doing this test for us. OK boys and girls.........the results are in- Here is the setup: Does 2 cycle oil actually quiet the engine, or is it all in our warped minds?? For the test: I parked my truck in it's usual spot on the driveway Placed a tape measure on the ground perpendicular to the left front wheel Placed a digital sound meter on an 8" high photo tripod with the sound pickup at 36" from the wheel. Recorded sound measurements on fast response, "c" weighting and adjusted scale for decibel range. Sound measurements were taken with truck at operating temperature, no accessories on (a/c, htr., lights, etc.) Measurements recorded for truck at idle and 2000 rpm in park, auto trans. Setup was duplicated for straight ULSD and 128:1 2 cycle oil mix, both tests conducted at approximately 6:30 pm PDT., several days apart. Test #1- 128:1 2 cycle oil (I already had the mix on board, so I ran this test first): Reading at idle- 79 db Reading at 2000 rpm- 89 db Test #2- Fuel tank run as low as I dared, then filled with straight ULSD, driven for 125 mi., then tested: Reading at idle- 84 db Reading at 2000 rpm- 92 db Conclusion: The addition of 2 cycle oil at a ratio of 128:1 (or 1 oz/gallon) attenuates or reduces the sound generated by the diesel engine at idle 5 db, and 3 db at 2000 rpm. Subjectively, the tester felt that the truck ran more smoothly overall and displayed less perceived vibration in-cab with the addition of 2 cycle oil, and also the 5 db sound attenuated recorded was easily noticed both in-cab and standing outside. Respectfully, Jonesie.

Fixing the 5th Gear Nut To fix your 5th gear nut you need to remove a few things in order to get to them. This will be done on my 1997 dodge Cummins 12v NV4500 2wd. If you own a 4wd, you will have to take the transfer case off instead of the tailshaft housing. I do not have a 4wd so cannot advise how to do it. Step 1: Drain the fluid out of the NV4500, this takes some time so you can do the next step while it is draining. Step 2: Remove the driveshaft starting at the axle. When removing the U-Joint, make sure the bearings do not fall off. If they do you risk having all the needle bearings fall out and they are an absolute nightmare to get back in place. The 2 red circled ones are the ones you need to be worried about. Tape them so they don’t fall off when you happen to walk by and kick it. Remove the center bearing also. You must hold the top of the bolt, it isn’t welded or anything like that. Now you can pull the driveshaft slowly out of the tail shaft, all as one very long shaft. Step 3: Disconnect speed sensor. Step 4: The oil should all be drained now so you have to jack the transmission up in order to take the tail shaft support out. So get a jack and jack it up until the trans goes up a tiny bit, just so you know it is being supported. Don’t jack it up any more than that because it is still bolted to the crossmember. Step 5: Take the bolts out of the bottom of the spacer that goes between the trans and the crossmember. It is the thing I am holding in my hand. There are 2 bolts on the bottom then 2 bolts off to the side. The bolts off to the side should have the nuts welded, but sometimes the weld breaks. You should be able to pull it right out, if it is tight, jack the transmission up a little more. Don’t get too crazy with the jack because it is still connected to the exhaust pipe mount. Step 6: Take the mount that supports the exhaust off. You should be able to wiggle it off of the exhaust with some time. If not, I’m afraid you will have to take the entire crossmember off. Step 7: Take all of the bolts out of the tailshaft housing. Be careful not to hit it or anything because more oil will dump out, maybe half a quart. So be prepared when you do break the seal for the oil it will puke. Step 8: Pull the tailshaft and wipe everything down. Step 9: Fix the nut. There are many different methods that have been tried and as new ones seem to come up and as old methods are being tried and proven or failing I would suggest you google "NV4500 5th gear nut fix" and research a little on your own as this is a very debateable topics as to which fixes work and which cause more problems than they solve. Here is a picture of what it should look like. And here is a picture of what it looks like when you have “lost 5th gear.” Mopar's Notes: Make sure you use a quality sealant like RTV Black during your re-assembly of the tailshaft housing. Another article to a more permanent repair of the 5th gear nut. http://quad4x4.com/NV4500%205th%20Gear%20Failures%20and%20Solutions.htm

ScanGauge II Trip Computer Calibration Procedure Ok Gang...I got the ScanGauge II dialed in perfectly and extremely accurate now. I know exactly how todo and make the adjustment so it right near perfect. Fill up Procedure 1. Pick a fuel station that you're going to use as a calibration fill point.2. Pick a pump that you're going to use for filling. You must return to the very same pump inthe same direction!3. Fill the tank on the lowest speed possible of the pump this reduces foaming of the fuel.4. When the pump shuts off That's it! Hang up the nozzle! Don't round up to the nearest dollar...5. This you go through the fill up process but leave the setting alone. Don't change the offsetpercent. However, you can change the price value!6. Drive the truck fair amount of distance at least 1/2 tank to 3/4 of a tank.7. Return to your fuel station to the same pump in the same direction.8. Fill the tank again in the same manner. When the pump stops hang up the nozzle.9. Now do your fill up and change your offset gallons to match the pump. Now be smart. If youget 18.889 Gallons make sure you round up on the ScanGauge II to 18.9 gallons. If thehundredth placement is less than 5 don't round up. Say it was 18.810 you would have set 18.8gallons. Speed Procedure 1. Use a GPS or barrow one from a friend.2. Take a ride with the MPH display up on the ScanGauge II and verify the speed is correct forall speed. (25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75, etc.)3. If not correct your ScanGauge II speeds to match the GPS (not the stock speedometer!). Verification I went back now for the 3rd trip to the very same station filled up again same pump and samedirection. The pump stopped exactly on the amount of gallons the ScanGauge II displayed. Notto mention the price was exact too. It just doesn't get any better than that! Failures I've seen several people get upset about ScanGauge II not being accurate. Most of the timeyou find out they are using any old pump and rounding up to the nearest dollar. You must usethe same pump for calibration as I'm finding even though all pumps have a weights andmeasure sticker meaning they are calibrated, but most pumps are not absolutely exact. SoStation A might be +0.1 Gallon off when you go to station B it might be -0.1 off. You must usethe same pump. As for direction some of the station has a slope away from the pump so ifyou're in a different direction, then it might change the level of the tank! Direction is importanttoo. As for the speed, this is how ScanGauge II gets its mileage so if the speed is wrong, thenthe MPG figure is wrong too.MPG = Speed (MPH) / Flow (GPH)For example19.6 MPG = 55 MPH / 2.80 GPHSo if your flow calibration is done poorly, then the flow number is skewed. If your speedcalibration is done poorly so your mileage is skewed... So if both are poorly done well you'regoing to be very upset to find out your hand math and ScanGauge II are a long way from beingclose! Oh... If you do hand math to verify the ScanGauge use the miles from the ScanGaugenot the odometer. Like on my truck I'm close but not exactly perfect on the speed I'm still off by0.5 MPH so the Scan numbers are slightly off from hand math done with the odometer, but thehand math of the ScanGauge II is fine...

Gauges There are several brands of gauges available for diesel engines. The four most important gauges for a Dodge Cummins truck are: 1. Fuel Pressure 2. Pyrometer 3. Boost Pressure 4. Transmission Temperature (Automatic Transmission) Fuel Pressure Here is a typical setup for a stock fuel system for tapping the bottom of the fuel filter housing. Here is the basic fuel tap part used above. The needle valve is a Weatherhead Part number WH6820 usually sold at NAPA part stores for about $8 bucks. Here is my current setup used on my AirDog 150 fuel system. The fuel pressure tap is the old school Vulcan Big Line kit in the mid point of the stock fuel filter and the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Then the needle valve is first on foremost to protect everything down line from there. I installed my fuel pressure gauge by using a tapped banjo bolt. The lower picture shows the hardware used to plumb the fuel pressure gauge. There is NOT AN ISOLATOR in my system, but I do have a needle valve to shutdown the fuel flow if a leak occurs. A free banjo bolt is included in the Cummins Campaign Pump kit. The order number for the needle valve from NAPA is: Weather head (WH6820). The nylon tubing kit can be found at any local parts store in the oil pressure gauge plumbing kits. I found at my local NAPA store polyon air brake line in 1/8" size. This stuff is super flexible and super tough. You can use this stuff for you boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge without any problems. This tubing is fuel and oil rated so it will not break down with fuel or oil exposure. Much stronger than the cheap nylon oil pressure kits as mentioned above. Now there has been several people get rather disappointed in the needle valve and saying "Its not working it still wiping out the fuel pressure gauge / sender". Well this is caused by misadjustment of the needle valve typically its open too far and the water hammer pulses are beating it to death yet. So here is a simple video to show you how to adjust the needle valve... Pyrometer There are several methods to use when installing a pyrometer probe. The first thing I did was I center punched the manifold on the rear port where I wanted to drill my hole. Next, I greased the drill bit and drilled it slowly using a shop vacuum next to the bit to catch any debris. Then I used both a magnetic screwdriver and a Q-tip to pick up any metal chips. After that, I greased my tap and tapped the hole. I checked the manifold again in the same way as above. Finally, install the probe as directed by the manufacture. Triker888 from www.thedieselgarage.com suggested... Mopar's Notes: I notice that you used grease when drilling and tapping the turbo. That is good advice, but I want to add a different method, and just a little something to think about in the future. Use Lard as the grease and try to find fast spiral/helical drills and taps. The fast helix tends to draw the chips out of the hole rather than pushing them into it. Don't use a spiral point tap, as it is intended to push the chips into the hole. The lard is an excellent lubricant and really grabs hold of the chips. The tap would come out of the hole and the lard would be black. When I started doing tool and die work in the 60's we kept a can of Crisco (when it was real lard) on the shelf next to our machine for machining cast steel/iron, and in some cases bronze, even when we didn't have to worry about where the chips went. The theory is: Lard has a low melting point and provides a (very) thin, liquid, lubricant between the tap and the metal while the rest remains solid to "catch" the chips. Boost Pressure As with the Pyrometer, there are several ways of hooking up a boost gauge as well. I started with a 3/4" to 1/2" steel bushing, and then went to a 1/2" to 1/8" brass bushing. There is a pipe plug located right next to the fuel filter. The kit needed for this installation is the oil pressure gauge plumbing kits (nylon tubing kit) from a local parts store. The boost gauge connection is also going to require a bushing 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT also a brass. Low Fuel Pressure Light I upgraded my fuel lines to the Vulcan Big Line Kit. The kit includes a 1/8" NPT port for tapping for a test port or fuel pressure gauge. The picture shows the needle valve and pressure switch for a low pressure light. The Low pressure switch and tapped banjo bolt are included in the Carter Campaign pump kit. (4090046).

Winter Front Basically my winter front is a old road sign cut up to fit the opening in the grill.(Thank you! Kelly Hinkley - "The Metal Shop" Riggins, Idaho) I've seen several other ideas including, stainless steel, plexiglass, lexan, and several other materials. But the principal is simple. Keep the cold air from blowing across the radiator and engine. This will aid in engine warm up times and fuel mileage. Remember the cold air will extend the warm up times hence this will cause more fuel to be consumed till the engine is completely warmed up. (Roughly 160-190°F) I've seen about 5-10 miles before I got full engine temperature without the winter front. Now with the winter front its less than 3 miles to get full engine temperature. Excessive cold air for air intake will actually degrade performance. So with the winter front in place it will trap more warm air under the hood for engine use. Compression engines (diesel) require compression of air to make heat to fire the fuel. When the air get cold enough it will start to degrade the performance and fuel economy. As for overheating... Not likely. As long as the fan is in place with the winter front the fan will engage to help cool the engine down if the temperature was to rise from extra load or steep grade. I'm seeing people that are putting a piece of cardboard in front of the coolers and radiators or putting it between the radiator and the coolers. Most people put a good size hole in the middle and insert it... This is WRONG! DON'T DO IT! Why is cardboard inserted wrong??? Well when you put a piece of cardboard against radiator or coolers your block air flow completely all the time. Then when you cut a hole in the middle of the cardboard your blowing cold air on the fan clutch keeping it unlocked always... If the fan clutch did lock it couldn't cool the engine down you got cardboard block the flow of air. Remember also there is a lot of air pushing against this and will plug the face of the radiator/coolers with what ever material you use! The only air flow is going to be at the center where the hole is at... So now you got a overheat problem possibly with both coolant and exhaust temperatures. So why is the winter front CORRECT?? Because the winter front block the cold in coming air but it leave a gap between the grill and the coolers. So now if the fan should happen to lock it can pull full flow of air through it to cool not only the radiator but the intercooler too!

Tire Inflation Pressure Formula Gather Information of the Truck and Tires You going to need some information about the truck and the tires to use this formula. You need to scale the truck as you plan on using it this means with full load of cargo, trailers, full tank of fuel, etc. You need the front and rear axle weights. Then your going to need the information about the tire and its ablities for weight which are typically on the side wall. Here is the 265/75 R16's I'm running right now. The Formula Rather pretty simple formula once you see you'll understand how it works. Single Tire: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure Dual Rear Tires: (Axle Weight / 2) / (Tire Capacity weight x 2) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure So we'll now start to plug in information provided from the scale and the tire. I'll start with the front axle. The first part of the calculation is dividing the axle weight in half to give the weight placed on each tire of the front axle. (4,440 Pounds / 2) = 2,220 Pounds Now we'll take the half weight and divide it over the the weight capacity of the tire. This should result in a decimal answer or a percentage of weight capacity that has been used. 2,220 Pounds / 3,415 Pounds = 0.65 (65% Percent) WARNING: You should never see a answer above 1.00. You are over weight for the tires and/or vehicle. Now we multiply the percent number against the maximum inflation pressure of the tire to get the inflation pressure for your current weight. 0.65 x 80 PSI = 52 PSI Front Tire Inflation So we get out our handy tire pressure gauge and adjust the front axle pressure to match. The Results Of The Front Inflation Pressure What you get is a tire that sits completely flat on the tread face and should have a very slight belly to it when look across the profile. Now you might have to adjust pressure a bit to suit your tats but typically you shouldn't need much more than +/- 5 PSI to make it right. Rear Tire Inflation This is where most people get panicy of the result they get from the formula. The rear axle weight on most of these truck is rather light. Like my truck in typical empty condition weighs out at 2,860 pounds so lets calculate that out quickly. ( 2,860 / 2) / 3,415 X 80 = 33 PSI So here is my current pressure and tire profile. Yes this is correct pressure vs. weight. It seems low but that because there is no weight on the rear axle. Now if I was to hitch up the RV trailer and readjust pressure vs. weight the mat would be different. With my RV I'm 4,280 pounds on the rear axle. (4,280 / 2) / 3,415 x 80 = 50 PSI Another Example with Load Range G's I've got a set of Load Range G's tires I use during the summer that have unusual specs. But I'll run the math to show no matter what you use for a tire you can figure out the pressures. Tires: Solid Trac (By Voma) 235/85 R16 - 3,750# @ 110 PSI Front Axle: (4,440 / 2) / 3,750 x 110 = 65 PSI Rear Axle (2,860 / 2) / 3,750 x 110 = 42 PSI Pressures vs. MPG's So far all the time I've used my formula I've never had any problems with MPG's from a result of low pressures. I used the calculated pressure and then increased it 10 PSI over calculated to see if there is any gains in MPG's. What I found is no gains where to be had in overflation. But your ride will suffer and tire wear will occur more so in the center of the tire. Like all my tire wear are even across the face and fairly even remaining tire tread on the outside of the tread vs. centers. All I can say it try it for yourself. Verification Of Pressure To Brand Name Tables Here is a Michelin Web Site page for Tire Pressures. http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp Show a demo of Formula vs. Table pressures from Michelin. Axle Weight: 4,850# on Single Tire Axle Single Tire Forumla: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure (4,850# / 2) = 2,425# / 3,042# = 0.79 x 80 PSI = 63.7 PSI Axle Weight: 8,820# On Duals Rear Axle Dual Rear Tires Formula: (Axle Weight / 2) / (Tire Capacity weight x 2) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure (8,820 / 2) = 4,410# / (2778# x 2 = 5,556#) = 0.79 x 80 = 63.4 PSI Take note on duals tire axles you got to double the 2,778# rating of the tire and then divide your axle weight. But with both sets the pressure number is right there within 3 PSI of the tire pressure chart of Michelin. Disadvantages of Underinflation An underinflated tire can't maintain its shape and becomes flatter than intended while in contact with the road. Additionally, the tire's tread life could be reduced by as much as 25%. Lower inflation pressure will allow the tire to deflect (bend) more as it rolls. This will build up internal heat, increase rolling resistance and cause a reduction in fuel economy of up to 5%. You would experience a significant loss of steering precision and cornering stability. Properly Inflated This is the balance between under inflation and over inflation. You still maintain some flexibility to the tire which will keep the comfort to the ride without creating excessive flexing, heat generation or sacrificing MPG numbers. As you'll see both underinflation and overinflation will cause issues with handling and tire wear / damage. Disadvantages of Overinflation An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. They could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher. However, higher inflation pressures usually provide an improvement in steering response and cornering stability up to a point. This is why participants who use street tires in autocrosses, track events and road races run higher than normal inflation pressures. The pressure must be checked with a quality air gauge as the inflation pressure cannot be accurately estimated through visual inspection. Chrysler OEM Specified Tire Pressures This is stated for 265/75 R16 tires for 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD 5.9L Diesel. Light Load Fornt 40 PSI and Rear at 40 PSI. For weights up to GAWR Front 65 PSI and Rear 80 PSI. As specified on the door. Now also be aware that no vehicle should be capable of reaching GAWR safely. As you can see my GVWR is 8,800 pounds. Knowning my front axle weighs out at 4,440 pounds this means the maximum rear axle weight will be 4,360 pounds which would add up to 8,800 pounds GVWR. So in my case maximum actual pressure would be 57 PSI for both front and rear at GVWR. So there is no reason to inflate the tires above 60 PSI ever in my case because I would exceed the GVWR anyways. Just adding the two GAWR number comes out at 11,284 pounds which is 2,484 pounds over weight which happens to be 1.2 tons over! As you'll see my formula takes into account the actual axle weights also the changes of tire capacity from brand to brand. Were the OEM document only specifies the tire pressure for the factor brand tire (Michelin LTX 265/75 R16). Like myself I've change wheels and tire size. Just changing brand name you have to re-calculate your pressures. I've now owned tires with weight ratings from 3,042 to 3,750 pounds at a range of pressures from 80 PSI to 110 PSI. So the factory specified pressures no longer work and you need to figure out your base line pressure. So don't let the factory number lead you to blow outs. Tire Pressure profile photos Another view of tire pressure in photos. This is my rear tire of my truck. Now the tire at this time is a Black Lion HT 235/85 R16 (3,086 pounds @ 80 PSI). Calculated I should have 37.07 PSI in the tire but I'm going to start from dead flat and step up 5 PSI and shoot pictures of the tire. The camera is on a tripod and not going to be moved. Take notice at calculated pressure the tire had a very mild belly at calculated pressure as radial tires are designed to have but the next picture the belly is gone and the tire does not change much after that calculated point. The only thing it does do is roughen the ride and ride more so on the center of the tire tread reducing traction. 2,860 / 2 = 1,430 / 3,086 = 0.46 x 80 = 37.07 PSI

Fog Lights / Driving Lights Well I added driving lights or fog lights as a matter of fact 4 driving lights. I'm using 100 watt aircraft landing lights mounted in rubber tractor buckets. The reason for going to this is fairly simple. I've purchased several driving / fog lights. The biggest problem is the lens in normally made from glass. Well out here in Idaho most of the road are gravel or they use gravel on the highways for traction in the winter time. A good set of driving or fog lights would barely last a season before the lens was blown out by a rock. With the aircraft light the bulb is a sealed beam so the bulb and lens is on in the same. They are extremely bright and can light up as far as 1/3 mile down the road in front of you. The new system I've designed has a few safety features built into the fog lamp kit. The fog or driving lamps follow the setting that the main headlights are on. So if you select high beams the fog or driving lamps will follow and go to high beam mode. If you select low beams the fog or driving lamps will follow by going to low beam mode. You never have to worry about blinding some one with this system. If you go from headlight to parking lamps the fog or diriving lamps are forced to low beam mode regardless of the pervious head light mode. But if you use the dimmer switch to wink the high beam the fog or driving lamps will follow. But will return to low beam mode when released. When the headlights are turned off the fog or driving lamps are forced off as well. You don't have to worry about shutting down a second switch. My kit also includes a bypass shutdown switch too. This allows you to run only your stock headlights without the fog ro driving lamps. The kit requires tapping a few signal wires. But the lights are completely supplied by there own fuse from the battery. This will not put any extra load on you headlight circuit. The kit requires a signal from the trailer relay and a signal from the fog lamp relay. That's it! This kit uses 100W bulbs so its some states this might be illegal to use on highway purpose. Check with local laws first before using.

Backup lighting / Reverse Lighting The reason why I mounted the backup lights on my rear axle is to protect them from general on and off road debris. The rear axle guards the light when rolling forward and the sway bar guards them when backing up. So far I've only burned up 1 bulb for my backup lights. I've never crushed or damaged any of the backup lights yet. The bulbs used in the backup lights are 100 watt aircraft landing lights. These lights are hooked to a relay, which is triggered by the reverse light lead. This lead is found in the trailer harness and is powered by the trailer power lead. One main reason for the aircraft lights are they are known to be long lasting. My bulbs have lasted over 100K miles thus far without any major problems. These bulbs can be purchased at most local NAPA stores for about $15 to $18 bucks. NAPA# 4509 Now with the toggle switch added I can back up to a trailer and hitch up in the dark of the night without having to shift into reverse and shut the engine down. I can just flip the switch and I've got 200 watts of light right there at the hitch from the backup lights. So this makes hitching up in the dark easy.

Voltage Regulator Mod The voltage regulator on the 92-93 trucks is an internal unit inside the control module. If this goes out, you can mount an external voltage regulator like the earlier first gens used. A bad crankshaft position sensor will also cause your voltage regulator to not charge the altenator. You can also get by this by doing the following: The two terminals on the alternator for the regulator are interchangable. The alternator is a dumb alternator for an external regulator. The PCM is that regulator normally. The alternator does not care weather it is controlled by the PCM or a regulator. The PCM is not affected by not being hooked to the alternator. The two terminal regulator has the contacts in the shape of a pyrimid. One terminal is missing. The missing terminal and one other terminal are at the base of the pyrimid. Ok, hook the two alternator terminals to the two regulator terminals. Does not matter which goes to which. Now run a 12 volt line from an ignition source to the top regulator terminal along with the alternator wire. Thats it except you need a good ground from the alternator to the regulator case. On the 98.5 to 2002 the blue wire that is existing should be 12V keyed can be re-used for the external regulator. A little note on this system. If you hook the 12 volt up to the wrong regulator terminal, it does fry the regulator. Not much problem, seven bucks gets another one. The terminals for the regulator can be just the round female terminals that are used for connecters on lights and other places or go to an older junk yard and cut the plug from about any old chrysler product. Stock charging system wiring diagram

Feed Circuit Test - Voltage Drop Test The starter feed circuit test (voltage drop method) will determine if there is excessive resistance in high-amperage feed circuit. For complete starter wiring circuit diagrams, refer 8, Wiring Diagrams. When performing these tests, it is important to remember that voltage drop is giving an indication of resistance between two points at which voltmeter Example: When testing resistance of battery positive cable, touch voltmeter leads to battery positive cable clamp and cable connector at starter solenoid. If you probe battery positive terminal post and cable connector at starter solenoid, you are reading combined voltage drop in battery positive cable clamp-to terminal post connection and battery positive cable. The following operation will require a voltmeter accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt. Before performing tests, be certain that following procedures are accomplished: Battery is fully-charged and load-tested. Fully engage parking brake. If equipped with manual transmission, place gearshift selector lever in Neutral position and block clutch pedal in fully depressed position. If equipped with automatic transmission, place gearshift selector lever in Park position. Verify that all lamps and accessories are turned off. To prevent a gasoline engine from starting, remove Automatic ShutDown (ASD) relay. To prevent a diesel engine from starting, remove Fuel Pump Relay. These relays are located in Power Distribution Center (PDC). 1. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to battery negative terminal post. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery negative cable clamp (Fig. 2). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor contact between cable clamp and terminal post. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery. 2. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to battery positive terminal post. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery positive cable clamp (Fig. 3). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor contact between cable clamp and terminal post. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery. 3. Connect voltmeter to measure between battery positive terminal post and starter solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 4). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten battery cable connection at solenoid. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty battery positive cable. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed on driver side battery only 4. Connect voltmeter to measure between battery negative terminal post and a good clean ground on engine block (Fig. 5). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten battery negative cable attachment on engine block. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty battery negative cable. Note: If equipped with dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed twice, once for each battery. 5. Connect positive lead of voltmeter to starter housing. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery negative terminal post (Fig. 6). Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, correct poor starter to engine block ground contact. Note: If equipped with a dual battery system (diesel), this procedure must be performed on driver side battery only. 6. If equipped with dual battery system (diesel), connect positive lead of voltmeter to driver side battery positive cable clamp. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to passenger side battery positive terminal post. Rotate and hold ignition switch in Start position. Observe voltmeter. If reading is above 0.2 volt, clean and tighten passenger side battery positive cable eyelet connection at driver side battery positive cable clamp bolt. Repeat test. If reading is still above 0.2 volt, replace faulty passenger side battery positive cable.

Speed I hear it all the time how everyone is driving at the speed limit or faster on the interstates. Then throw a snide comment about my driving here in Idaho. Most people don't even have a clue about what Idaho highways are like or the road conditions we face out here. Let me get this out first. Most all speed limits in Idaho are 45-65 MPH period. The only places where the speed exceeds this is the two interstate highways (I84 and I90) that pass through the state. So for me to get to I90 to just drive fast its 4 hours 10 minute drive or if I went south to I84 its 2 hours and 12 minutes just so I can drive faster than 65 MPH. So the whole idea of driving fast is not happening in this part of the state of Idaho. As for the state of Idaho, there is no minimum speed limit in the state. But... If you holding up more than 3 vehicles you must yield to traffic. If you think this is slow, try city speed limits of 25 MPH and residential of 15 MPH and its radar enforced. Animals Another factor that everyone discounts is game animals crossing the highway. This occurs quite often and more times out of ten either causes vehicle damage or accident with oncoming traffic trying to avoid the animals in the highway. There have been a few cases of death from game animal accidents. Some parts of Idaho are open range so that is another factor of hitting a cow is devastating to a small car let alone a semi-truck. As for my truck I've had one occurrence of striking a deer at lower speeds thankfully, I was traveling slower other than that I would have done serious damage. Landslides & Rocks Since the mountain is constantly on the move from either animals or weather you will have from time to time a rock or landslide dump out on the highway. So traveling at the speed limit isn't always a great idea when you round the next corner to meet head on with a landslide or boulder on the road. Being I do drive cautiously around canyons and steep terrain I've been able to avoid many rocks falls. (Idaho 55 south of Cascade, ID) Weather The weather out here is very quick to change from one extreme to another. An old local saying is “If you don't like the weather wait 15 minutes or drive 15 miles.” For where I live it's about true. I can drive to Riggins, Idaho for work and be out of the snow and then turn around drive the 15 miles back home in be in foot deep snow when I pull in the driveway. Now with bad weather be it fog, snow or heavy rain you can be given a ticket for sliding off the pavement or losing control of your vehicle. So I'd advise slowing down in poor weather. Like below heavy fog, snow, and black ice is not something to drive fast on. As for my truck, it's never slid off the pavement. (US95 north of New Meadows, Idaho) (US95 north of New Meadows, Idaho) Volunteering I've been volunteering with Search & Rescue with Idaho County and Salmon River Rural Fire Department for many years now. I've seen many highway accidents with deaths and severe injuries. After being to a few of this kind of call out you tend to slow down giving you more buffer room for avoiding accidents. So I tend to drive slower than posted speed limits typically on average about 55-60 MPH. As for most vehicle accidents I've been to I've seen more accidents involving excessive speed. (US95 north of Riggins, Idaho) Towing As for towing my trailers I will not drive fast than 55-60 MPH. All ST tires are rated for 65 MPH maximum speed. There is no sense in running the trailer tire at redline speed or faster to just have a blowout. To this day 28 years of driving I've never experienced a sudden blow out on a vehicle or trailer. Claims of high MPG at high rate of speed I've got guys all the time to claim 20's MPG at 70-80 MPH speeds. Most of these I call BS on these claims. First off if your capable of hitting those kinds of MPG numbers at those at that speeds then at a lower speed you should be hitting the ball out of the park. More times out of ten the owner has oversize tires or changed wheel sizes and has an odometer that is way out of whack. If your going to post a claim of high MPG numbers I highly suggest you get an accurate odometer like a GPS and figure your MPG's from GPS distance and not your erred odometer. Most people that I challenge with this disappear because their numbers are typically way lower or there method of calculating MPG was erred. Like all my reports of MPG numbers are fully logged from 22k miles to current. I've got a full spreadsheet all mathed out and even in graph form. As for correction of odometer for my truck is exactly 0.5 MPH off so I've got both my GPS and ScanGauge II that give corrected odometer as well as the ScanGauge II giving correct MPG numbers. With an odometer, off by 0.5 MPH, you can be off roughly 20-30 miles in a tank of fuel this roughly translates to roughly 1 MPG error. Idaho Highways As you'll see here Idaho has very few Interstate highways and majority of 2 lane highways. Like said above all 2 lane highways out here range from 45-65 MPH. Now as for the Interstates they have been upgrade to 80 MPH. The blue dot is approximate location of where I live. It's roughly 2.5 hour drive to reach I84 and about 4 hours to reach I90 from where I live. So high speed travel is not really possible here. So, Please keep it to yourself when you going to post snide comments about how I drive in Idaho. Note: All photos are from right here in Idaho on Idaho highways or from Idaho vehicle owners.

ScanGauge II Now here is a invaluable tool for your Dodge product. This works on all OBDII compliant vehicles. Not only does it scan for on board error codes, display and clear them for you. But its got a full trip computer. But this one can be calibrated for your truck. The trip computer is extremely accurate! It's even more accurate than the overhead computer in a Dodge! Then as shown in the picture above you can program the gauges to display live information from the ECM/PCM. No Dodge owner should be without this good little tool! Amazon Scan Gauge Link Mopar's Notes: Ok there is a few thing I see constantly asked. Q: Can I use the fuel pressure reading on the ScanGauge II? A: No. The ScanGauge II can only report the information provided by the PCM/ECM since there is no fuel pressure sensor or software on board the ECM there will not be a fuel pressure reading. ScanGauge II manual reports that only 10% of today's vehicles have a fuel pressure sensor! Q: Why is the MAP sensor reading so wild? A: There is a offset of voltage on the 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins that tends to produce this offset. I been told by 3rd Gen owners that ScanGauge II reports properly.

Muffler Delete / Straight Piped Another simple enhancement that doesn't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states, a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just too loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel mileage. Basically, all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get a piece of 3" exhaust pipe and maybe a new set of clamps. Once you got the pipe have them expand the ends so they will fit over the existing pipe. So now when you do this you going to have to fight a little to get the old muffler and resonator off. I used a torch to heat the clamp spots up to get the muffler assembly off. Then slide in your new pipe and clamp it down. I've welded in some re-bar hanger to mount back in the rubber hanger on the frame to help hold the pipe up.

High Volume Funnel Get a bottle of brake fluid from Wal-Mart. Use the brake fluid for your truck. Change out your brake fluid. Take notice there are two different sized necks you want the larger of the two if possible. The small neck won't work. Now just cut the bottom off the bottle carefully. Basically this is what you should have. A bottle with the bottom gone and the cap removed. Now it screws right into the valve cover on a 24 Valve Cummins. I've not tested it on other trucks but it works for me...

Mechanical High Idle for All Cummins Trucks Here is another version of high idle you can produce for you dodge Cummins. A member over at Cummins Forum came to me with his version of high idle. Thank you WJBell for your information and allowing me to post here on my site... WJBell's High Idle Write Up Original Information is here. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/111278-mechanical-high-idle-bomb-completed.html Since seeing Mopar Mans high idle I've been wanting to do something like it. I live in California so I really don't need it but for cold morning warms up's it's kind of nice. And if I idle it for a long time I've heard you can cake up the valves or warp cylinders. So I checked with three different dealers in my area and they all wanted $100+ to program the stock high idle. What I really wanted was the PTO idle controlled through cruise control but not available for my 2001. So... I decided to make my own PTO idle. I looked through some different posts and a couple guys did it with a high idle solenoid from Chevy's with a Rochester carb. So I went to pick & Pull today and picked one up for $7 off of a late 70's early 80's truck. Then I went to Ace hardware and picked up some 1/16 steel cable, a cable end stop and a thing to slip over the cable to tie it down. The one guy I saw mounted it on his APPS to push the throttle open, like an extended stop screw for the throttle. I didn't want to leave my APPS cover off or hack it up so I looked where I could mount it where the pedal pulls the cable under the dash. It wouldn't fit behind the pedal lever but there was a place where I could mount it where it pulled the top of the pedal where the cable was. And there is a bolt there in perfect position to mount the existing bracket on the solenoid. All I had to do is hacksaw off part of the bracket and it fit perfect. So I got a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum roughly about 1 3/4" long and 3/4" wide and mounted it to the end piece of the solenoid, drilling through them both and securing it with one machine screw. Then on the other end where the cable comes through I got a short, 3/4" long bolt (not sure what size but something that will fit within the aluminum bracket) and drilled it out though the center. Then drilled the aluminum bracket a little smaller than the bolt and force threaded the bolt into the bracket. (poor mans tap & die. Hey it's aluminum!) So now the cable feeds in through the top of the bolt and you can fine tune the idle speed by tightening or backing out the bolt. So I ran the cable through, looped it around the pedal and tied it together with a 1/8" (can't remember what it's called) with an allen set screw to tighten it down. I already had a switch wired through a relay up in my overhead sunglasses compartment so I just wired it to the solenoid. Started the truck up, flipped the switch and tapped the throttle and idle went up to about 1400. Turned off the switch and it dropped to normal. The solenoid doesn't have enough power to raise the idle by itself, you have to tap the throttle. After some adjustments I got the high idle to right around 1100-1200. It's sweet. Start the truck, hit the switch and tap the throttle and you're at 1100 rpms. Turn off the switch and you're back to normal. There's no effect on the pedal, you can't feel any binding, etc. Works pretty sweet. Not bad for a couple hours work and under $20! I don't have 3 cylinder high idle but if I want that I'll just unplug three of the spark plugs. The part number for the solenoid is 1997461 and here's a list of cars it comes on. Hit your local pick & pull and you can pick one up for less than $10. 1977 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Monte Carlo : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Classic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Estate : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Impala Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Concours : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Caprice : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Oldsmobile : Full Size Oldsmobile (Rwd) : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : 98 Regency : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Custom Cruiser : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 Royale : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Luxury 98 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega Brougham : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega F85 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG

Frantz Bypass Filter Here is a very good addon that every should consider doing on the vehicles (Gasoline or Diesel). The Frantz Filter is a depth type by-pass filter in which oil from the engine flows very slowly through a dense filter media and is thoroughly cleaned. Depth filtration (as opposed to surface filtration) is universally recognized as the most efficient. The design of the Frantz Oil Cleaner provides 4.4" of filter media depth through which the oil must pass. No other filter design approaches this media depth and resulting efficiency. Oil enters the filter through the center fitting, flows upward through the center tube and then downward through the filter media. As the clean oil leaves the filter media, it passes through a fine wire screen assembly to the outlet fitting. A 1/16" restrictor orifice is placed in the inlet fitting to control the flow rate through the filter. Because of the low velocity of the oil passing through the dense tissue, it is easily separated from the contaminant particles which are readily disposed of by changing the filter element. The Frantz Oil filter/cleaner protects every precision part of your engine against wear by removing the smallest harmful particles as well as up to six ounces of water. Mopar's Notes: Update! - Mounting Configuration I found out that it much better to mount the can upside down. This will make filter changes less messy. The thing is when it was mounted can side up then when you pull the can upwards to remove the oil would run out everywhere making a mess. With it hung upside down the can holds all the oil and only the tube will drip just a bit. As you can see in the pictures I made a bracket that mounts the filter on the battery.

Flushing the Coolant System Draining Coolant On a cool engine (less than 140*F) remove the radiator cap. Now at the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain valve on the radiator. The drain turns 1/2 turn then pulls outward slightly then continues to turn to drain. To drain the overflow bottom it just easier to remove the hose from the radiator neck and then pull the overflow bottle upwards from the fan shroud. Flushing Cooling System Flushing the cooling system you'll need to remove the thermostat. There are three 8mm head bolts holding the cover in place. Once the cover is removed you can lift the thermostat out. Now replace the thermostat cover and the upper hose. The upper hose should only be hooked to the thermostat housing. This will direct the water away from the fan for you. Now using a garden hose at full flow you can place it in the radiator fill neck. Start the truck. Allow the water to flow till all solid debris and coolant color is gone. The water should come out clear. You can lightly rev the engine to pump water forceful for bursts. This will help push water through the heater core flushing it as well. Take notice the radiator is removed in this flushing. Filling With Coolant Now as for coolant, our trucks came factory with green coolant. You may use green, yellow (universal) or orange (HOAT). Just remember "Universal Yellow" typically can be mixed with green or orange coolants in an emergency. NEVER mix green and orange coolants! If you are going to switch coolant make sure to flush the system thoroughly. I typically will park the truck on a nose down slope to attempt to get water out of the system. Cummins cooling system holds 6 gallons typically there is roughly a gallon trapped in the block. So the first gallon goes in full strength. All other coolant is mixed 50/50 before using after the first gallon. As for mixing coolant and water. Most suggest distilled water be used. Now back during the flushing, I had removed thermostat now you can fill the entire system till its right to the top of the block. This allows you to fill without having to burp the system later. Now once the block is full to the top you can install a new thermostat (suggested) or re-use your old thermostat. Re-assemble your thermostat housing. Make sure to use anti-seize on the thermostat bolts. Re-assemble your upper hose. Now finish topping off the cooling system with mixed coolant. Make sure to fill the overflow bottle to the FULL mark. Coolant Color & Condition I'm going to say don't open the radiator cap and look and say, "Yep it's still (whatever color) its still good." I've heard this a million times. If a customer is willing I drain their radiator and show them typically the first gallon comes out rusty brown, then may change back to coolant color slowly as it drains. What happens is every time you start your engine your passing high current flow through the block and tends to change the pH of the coolant just like changing a battery. So over time coolant will shift from pH of 7 and typically shift corrosive. Lime scale builds up typically is from not the water but from dissolving metals in the cooling system from the corrosive coolant. So don't get hung up on the idea of long interval coolants like HOAT or distilled water will protect you from scale build up. You can still get scale build up with distilled water or premixed coolants. Simply put if the coolant starts to darken in color it already failed. Personal Results As for my truck the first 150k miles was on green coolants. I was flushing the system every 30k miles or so. I will clearly state I've NEVER used distilled water in my truck. I've used either the irrigation water which is from a creek behind the house or from the well that is here on the property. No water here is treated or chlorinated. I'm now using "Universal Yellow Coolant" typically found as WalMart SuperTech, Prestone, and even Napa coolants. I've never had an overheat once. I've never had a heater core plug up. No limescale build up. 100k miles and 5 years.... Updated pictures... This is my cooling system after 9 years and 180K miles now... 2015 (13 years later) and 255k miles later.... Using Universal Yellow Coolants. Still no scale build up or cooling issues. This batch was extended to 70,000 roughly and 2 years. 350k miles 07/20/2018. Coolant change with NAPA Extended Life. July 2019 - 385k miles and replaced the oil cooler gasket. As you can see after 17 years of service and using tap water (well water) or creek water like I have there is zero scale build up yet.

CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus Description The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time. Multiplexing is a system that enables the transmission of several messages over a single channel or circuit. Many Chrysler vehicles use this principle for communication between the various microprocessor based electronic control modules. Many of the electronic control modules in a vehicle require information from the same sensing device. In the past, if information from one sensing device was required by several controllers, a wire from each controller needed to be connected in parallel to that sensor. In addition, each controller utilizing analog sensors required an Analog/Digital (A/D) converter in order to “read“ these sensor inputs. Multiplexing reduces wire harness complexity, the sensor current loads, and controller hardware because each sensing device is connected to only one controller, which reads and distributes the sensor information to the other controllers over the data bus. Also, because each controller on the data bus can access the controller sensor inputs to every other controller on the data bus, more function, and feature capabilities are possible. In addition to reducing wire harness complexity, component sensor current loads and controller hardware, multiplexing offers a diagnostic advantage. A multiplex system allows the information flowing between controllers to be monitored using a diagnostic scan tool. The Chrysler system allows an electronic control module to broadcast message data out onto the bus where all other electronic control modules can “hear” the messages that are being sent. When a module hears a message on the data bus that it requires, it relays that message to its microprocessor. Each module ignores the messages on the data bus that are being sent to other electronic control modules. With a diagnostic scan tool connected into the CCD circuit, a technician is able to observe many of the electronic control module function and message outputs while; at the same time, controlling many of the sensor message inputs. The CCD data bus, along with the use of a diagnostic scan tool and a logic based approach to test procedures, as found in the Diagnostic Procedures manuals, allows the trained automotive technician to more easily, accurately and efficiently diagnose the many complex and integrated electronic functions and features found in today’s vehicles. Operation The CCD data bus system was designed to run at a 7812.5 baud rate (or 7812.5 bits per second). In order to successfully transmit and receive binary messages over the CCD data bus, the system requires the following: Bus (+) and Bus (–) Circuits CCD Chips in Each Electronic Control Module Bus Bias and Termination Bus Messaging Bus Message Coding Following are additional details of each of the above system requirements. Bus Circuits The two wires (sometimes referred to as the “twisted pair”) that comprise the CCD data bus are the D1 circuit [Bus (+)], and the D2 circuit [Bus (–)]. The "D" in D1 and D2 identify these as diagnostic circuits. Transmission and receipt of binary messages on the CCD data bus are accomplished by cycling the voltage differential between the Bus (+) and Bus (–) circuits. The two data bus wires are twisted together in order to shield the wires from the effects of any Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI) from switched voltage sources. An induced EMI voltage can be generated in any wire by a nearby switched voltage or switched ground circuit. By twisting the data bus wires together, the induced voltage spike (either up or down) affects both wires equally. Since both wires are affected equally, a voltage differential still exists between the Bus (+) and Bus (–) circuits, and the data bus messages can still be broadcast or received. The correct specification for data bus wire twisting is one turn for every 44.45 millimeters (1 3⁄4 inches) of wire. CCD Chips In order for an electronic control module to communicate with the CCD data bus, it must have a CCD chip (Fig. 5). The CCD chip contains a differential transmitter/receiver (or transceiver), which is used to send and receive messages. Each module is wired in parallel to the data bus through its CCD chip. The differential transceiver sends messages by using two current drivers: one current source driver, and one current sink driver. The current drivers are matched and allow 0.006 ampere to flow through the data bus circuits. When the transceiver drivers are turned On, the Bus (+) voltage increases slightly, and the Bus (–) voltage decreases slightly. By cycling the drivers On and Off, the CCD chip causes the voltage on the data bus circuit to fluctuate to reflect the message. Once a message is broadcast over the CCD data bus, all electronic control modules on the data bus have the ability to receive it through their CCD chip. Reception of CCD messages is also carried out by the transceiver in the CCD chip. The transceiver monitors the voltage on the data bus for any fluctuations. When data bus voltage fluctuations are detected, they are interpreted by the transceiver as binary messages and sent to the electronic control module’s microprocessor. Bus Bias And Termination The voltage network used by the CCD data bus to transmit messages requires both bias and termination. At least one electronic control module on the data bus must provide a voltage source for the CCD data bus network known as bus bias, and there must be at least one bus termination point for the data bus circuit to be complete. However, while bias and termination are both required for data bus operation, they both do not have to be within the same electronic control module. The CCD data bus is biased to approximately 2.5 volts. With each of the electronic control modules wired in parallel to the data bus, all modules utilize the same bus bias. Therefore, based upon vehicle options, the data bus can accommodate two or twenty electronic control modules without affecting bus voltage. The power supplied to the data bus is known as bus biasing. Bus bias is provided through a series circuit. To properly bias the data bus circuits, a 5 volt supply is provided through a 13 kilohm resistor to the Bus (–) circuit (Fig. 6). Voltage from the Bus (–) circuit flows through a 120 ohm termination resistor to the Bus (+) circuit. The Bus (+) circuit is grounded through another 13 kilohm resistor. While at least one termination resistor is required for the system to operate, most Chrysler systems use two. The second termination resistor serves as a backup (Fig. 7). The termination resistor provides a path for the bus bias voltage. Without a termination point, voltage biasing would not occur. Voltage would go to 5 volts on one bus wire and 0 volts on the other bus wire. The voltage drop through the termination resistor creates 2.51 volts on Bus (–), and 2.49 volts on Bus (+). The voltage difference between the two circuits is 0.02 volts. When the data bus voltage differential is a steady 0.02 volts, the CCD system is considered “idle.” When no input is received from any module and the ignition switch is in the Off position for a pre-programmed length of time, the bus data becomes inactive or enters the ”sleep mode.” Electronic control modules that provide bus bias can be programmed to ”wake up” the data bus and become active upon receiving any predetermined input or when the ignition switch is turned to the On position. Bus Messaging The electronic control modules used in the CCD data bus system contain microprocessors. Digital signals are the means by which microprocessors operate internally and communicate messages to other microprocessors. Digital signals are limited to two states, voltage high or voltage low, corresponding to either a one or a zero. Unlike conventional binary code, the CCD data bus systems translate a small voltage difference as a one (1), and a larger voltage difference as a zero (0). The use of the 0 and 1 is referred to as binary coding. Each binary number is called a bit, and eight bits make up a byte. For example: 01011101 represents a message. The controllers in the multiplex system are able to send thousands of these bytes strung together to communicate a variety of messages. Through the use of binary data transmission, all electronic control modules on the data bus can communicate with each other. The microprocessors in the CCD data bus system translate the binary messages into Hexadecimal Code (or Hex Code). The hex code is the means by which microprocessors communicate and interpret messages. When fault codes are received by the DRBIII scan tool, they are translated into text for display on the DRBIII screen. Although not displayed by the DRBIII for Body Systems, hex codes are shown by the DRBIII for Engine System faults. When the microprocessor signals the transceiver in the CCD chip to broadcast a message, the transceiver turns the current drivers On and Off, which cycles the voltage on the CCD data bus circuits to correspond to the message. At idle, the CCD system recognizes the 0.02 voltage differential as a binary bit 1. When the current drivers are actuated, the voltage differential from idle must increase by 0.02 volt for the CCD system to recognize a binary bit 0. The nominal voltage differential for a 0 bit is 0.100 volts. However, data bus voltage differentials can range anywhere between 0.02 and 0.120 volts. Bus Failure The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedures for details on how to diagnose these faults using a DRBIII scan tool. Bus Failure Visual Symptoms & Diagnosis The following visible symptoms or customer complaints, alone or in combination, may indicate a CCD data bus failure: Airbag Indicator Lamp and Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated Instrument Cluster Gauges (All) Inoperative No Compass Mini-Trip Computer (CMTC) Operation Wiring Diagrams

Jacobs Exhaust Brake This is probably the most used piece of equipment on my truck. I use the Jacobs exhaust brake to do about 90% of all my braking on the highway, city streets, and off-road. My service brake pads are still factory pads and I've got over 180K+ on the clock. The brake shoes have got 25% left. It's a vast savings to the brakes. I finally replaced my brake pads all the way around the the truck at 187K. I didn't need to replace rotors just had the turned. Now for the next 200K miles. Sorry to say the Jacobs Exhaust Brake doesn't exactly has the diesel rumble when you use this style of exhaust brake. But you do get a hissing noise from the exhaust pipe. There is a bonus to the Jacobs exhaust brake. You can active it on a cold winter morning and get the pyrometer well above 350°F within a few seconds after starting it in the morning. If you use my high idle mod you can warm up a engine even quicker. I purchased the Jacobs Exhaust Brake from a Dodge Dealer in Lewiston, Idaho for $800.00 Here is a few more videos... Watch them... I sub titled them with the function I'm doing. You'll find out I rarely ever touch the service brake pedal and why my stock brake pads lasted to 187K miles. In the first video here is coming to a stop from highway speeds of 55-60 MPH using mostly my Jacobs Exhaust Brake. You'll see the subtitles of me gearing down and using the Jacobs exhaust brake (or jaking). This video is of leaving the mountain up around McCall, ID which is a 7% grade that is very windy with turn marked for 25 MPH. You'll see how I manage to keep control of the vehicle speed without using any brake pedal all but heavy use of the Jacobs exhaust brake. It takes a little bit of time to learn how to use you Jacobs exhaust brake as a primary braking unit. There is other thing to consider is your following distance and how fast you can decelerate using only the Jacobs exhaust brake. Once you learn how fast and how much braking force a Jacobs exhaust brake has by itself combined with your service brakes they are a wonderful duo. You'll have enough braking force to actually bark the rear tires coming to a stop. Another trick is to add a second switch to your transmission stick so you have the switch right there with your thumb. If hooked up right you can have instant braking power from the Jacobs exhaust brake at the flip of a switch without the 3 second wait.

Brake Fluid Change A brake fluid change is required every 30K miles. This is to change out fluid but to flush out debris and water contamination. But I do suggest about every 60K to 100K miles you break down the calipers and wheel cylinder and inspect for debris and rust. The reason why you need to bleed the brake system often is that brake fluid is hydroscopic absorbs water) and reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid. So the next time your trying to hold back the heavy load on a steep grade and the brake heat up the brake fluid will start to boil and air bubbles will form. Once this occurs brake failure can and will happen! Wore out and water loaded brake fluid also causes the rubber parts to degrade and metal parts to rust. So this is why you need to bleed the system often and also need to inspect for damage parts and debris. Now bleeding will purge out the wore out fluid but it will not remove debris from the bottom of the wheel cylinders and calipers. Bleeding the system is rather easy to do and only requires you have ample amount of DOT3 brake fluid available. Now since most people don't have a buddy or wife that is will to help bleed the brake out you can build a bleed jar. Basically its a mayonnaise jar and piece of vinyl tubing. Poke a hole in the jar lid and slide the tubing into the jar till it touches the bottom of the jar. Add a small amount of brake fluid to the jar to cover the end of the tube. Start at the farthest wheel. (Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front Left) Then crack the bleeder fitting loose. Now start pumping the pedal. Engine does not need to be running to bleed the brake system. Press the pedal down firmly to the floor then release slowly to keep from sucking the fluid back from the jar. Keep checking the master cylinder reservoir. When nearly empty refill the reservoir and then move onto the other wheels. These go fast! Now all you got to do is bleed each wheel now till the fluid clears in the tubing. As you can see the fluid does get rather dark and nasty looking like old engine oil in a matter of 28K miles. But after a completed brake fluid change the fluid looks like honey colored fluid. Now I did suggest a complete tear down of the brake parts every 60K to 100K miles. I ran into several issues now with debris, dried brake fluid, binding of pistons, etc. This can all be prevented by just removing the calipers and wheel cylinders and dissembling, cleaning, inspection, re-assemble and bleed. Calipers watch for binding pistons and debris in between the weather seal and the piston seal. But to check the pistons remove the caliper and dissemble, wash and dry them. With all seals removed the piston should fall to the bottom of the cylinder without force. If not take some fine sandpaper and lightly polish the pistons to remove any dried brake fluid or caked on debris. Check the piston often. Don't over do it! Also check the slide pins at both ends of the caliper and re-grease as needed. On from caliper be sure to check the piston seals if there has been any debris behind the weather boot. Take notice to the picture below. There is chunks of rubber missing from the seal this is cause from debris being caught between the piston and the seal. Pistons and seal can be purchased only through a Dodge dealer but they are not expensive. With rear drum brakes basically remove the pins, rubber boots, and piston cups from the wheel cylinder and visually inspect the wheel cylinder for rust build up in the bottom. Check all rubber parts for damage. Replace and damaged parts including springs and other hardware.