Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Be aware APPS position (or TPS value) doesn't mean IVS is in the right position. If you've got a stock APPS sensor with the voltage on the tag. The measured voltage should be BELOW the tag number to be in the IDLE position. At this point the ECM ignores the APPS voltage and uses only the internal software to idle or high idle. If the IVS is flopped the other direction the high idle with never start.Like today, I got lucky when this happened. My 96 gave up the ghost on the ignition switch just about completely. I had to pull the starter relay and jump it to get it started to finish my chores. As for giving up on it... So things are wearing out and breaking. So I called NAPA and a new switch will be here by tonight for a total of $41 and some tax. With a little bit of time and effort, I'll be passed this issue and move on with life. Now I can see a person that allows all kind of issues to pile up that all minor and now attempting to straighten the entire pile in one whack can be a mouthful and expensive. So I would prioritize the issues and work them one step at a time.You'll need to consider a better pump and upgrade in plumbing. The stock plumbing measures out at 6mm ID and typical fuel systems ate 3/8" and 1/2" hose. I highly suggest the 1/2" hose over the 3/8". Much better pressure stability. Then the pump should be move back near the fuel tank. No pump is designed to suck a long distance so relocation will help with pump longevity. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues Basically taking a good quality DVM that can measure 2 volt or less. Place the RED probe on the BATT of the alternator and the BLACK probe to the case of the alternator or passenger battery ground. Start the truck and let it idle with all loads turned on and measure the voltage. 0.01 to 0.03 is normal 0.05 is marginal - Some report strange random issues. Lock up, etc. 0.1 is fail. Most start seeing failure of computers like ECM with delay wait to start to PSG unit on the VP44 and P1688.I need to wax mine bad now but just to tough to do in super cold weather wax doesn't set up very fast.Fuel Pump relay in the PDC. This is the master ground on the passenger side battery. There is no body mounted ground for the ECM, PCM or VP44. Correct. Take notice this is a bit more confusing but the grounds all come to that G115 which is my picture above. Fuel Pump relay is in the upper right corner triggered by the ECM.Hua???Just be easier to ohm test from end to end. 0-5 ohms is a passing grade and anything above 5 ohms is a fail. As for the ground it's located here... You can even unplug it and ohm from plug to plug for ground leg.No... It would only slide into a tree and get stuck. (YouTube video)Well if it starts then hot wired then that points to an ECM issue. Still in all I would send the Edge juice back to be tested before having a ECM installed / rebuilt. The only other module that may play a roll is PCM if you have vehicle security system.No. Because if the Edge Juice is internally shorted and the CAN Bus data is fouled then, of course, the ECM and VP44 will do weird things too. Edge EZ and Edge Juice have these issues because module being under the hood. Edge Comp is the only one where the module is inside the cab. Can't. Because there is no error code for a failed external module like Edge Products. You already found the failure by unplugging the Edge Juice and it starts and runs fine. So make your choice of what you going to replace it with another Edge Juice or Edge Comp but you'll have to buy gauges.I gave up on the local car wash years again for the reason their high pressure pump barely is enough to blow caked mud off. You would need nearly $10 in quarters to do the job properly. The out body is some concern but with the high amount of salt these days I don't need the mud holding the salt to metal longer helping the rust to form. So more time was spent laying on a creeper and spraying all along under the body and frame rails. Body was fast blow off but under the truck and getting up behind the box skins, above the fender wells, etc. Now that is washing a truck even with snow on the ground.Right on the mark. You find the ECM will cycle the grid heater till a set time or till your speed exceeds 20 MPH.Won't happen. You can leave it disconnected for years and never clear those codes. Need a coder reader to erase the codes. Which FASS do you have? If it a factory replacement and still using all the junk stock fuel lines you need to upgrade. Everything from the pick up in the tank to the banjos on the VP44 is restrictive.Me. I would have to get correct offset wheels and my mud issue would go away.I hate when the weather warms up it just takes one day of melting snow to make a muddy mess of my truck. Doesn't look bad on the body but all the caked mud and packed in the fender well, frame, skid plate, etc. I'm more anal about keeping the mud off being the salt usage here is really high and it doesn't take much to start rotting the truck. After about 30 minutes of work with a 3,000 PSI power washer... I'm proud that I'm managed to extend the life span of my truck and its not rusted to hell yet.Seriously... I've got the 1995 Dodge sitting here without a solenoid at all. The Owner uses a chock cable to shut down the truck pull the cable and the engine shuts down like old 2.5 Ton Military Trucks.Here is your rag... Now you can wipe the BS off the corner of your mouth.Sorry Hammer that relay is junk.If you are going the extra step to do this remember the stated PS ratio is 400:1 and for CR Engines the 2 cycle is 200:1. Then you would do a second run of 128:1 for 12V and 24V trucks.There is no way to change the PSG without a Bosch 815 calibration bench which is a very spendy tool. So if your going to replace the VP44 your going to replace the entire thing. As for your fuel pressure it's way too low. Minimum side should be no lower that 14 PSI your dropping to 6 WOT this is very damaging. If there was a timing piston problem of any sort there would of been a P0216 code. Your issues could be cause from two different thing one being AC noise from the alternator and two being you low fuel pressure.2 Cycle Oil is much higher in BTU's and also lower cetane rating. As you can see the fire burns slow and long. Where just a small dash of PS burns quick and smokey. This is the cetane booster in PS products. Nice to see the oil was cleaning up the mess that PS left behind. Really though you should be mixing both of these in there proper ratio and then do the burn test.6.7L Ram Cummins EGR Delete Disclaimer This article is written for offroad use and/or track racing. EGR deletes are illegal for highway use in the US. EGR Delete The first step you'll have to do is disconnect the battery grounds and drain the coolant from the radiator. You only need to drain about 1/2 the coolant out since you are only working on the top part of the engine. Batteries being disconnected just ensures safety and nothing being shorted out. You want to remove the plastic decorative engine cover. There are four 10mm head bolts holding the cover on. Make sure to pull the engine oil dipstick out before removal. Now on the front of the engine, you want to remove the cross over EGR tube. There are 2 V-band clamps holding the tube. Also, there is one 10mm head bolt tucked up under the tube bolted to the front of the head. Now unhook the plug on the EGR valve. This requires using a screwdriver and pulling the red tab outwards to unlock the pull then squeeze the tab as usual to unplug. Unbolt the EGR valve from the intake horn. There are 10mm head bolts mounting it to the intake horn. This point you want to clean any old gasket material and excessive carbon up. I used a shop vacuum to pull a vacuum near the port and loosen the carbon up with my finger. As for the gasket, the same was hold the shop vacuum near the port as you scrap the old material off. While at the intake horn the throttle valve is just below the EGR valve. Make sure to unplug the throttle valve and leave it unplugged. You could install a throttle valve delete as well to improve performance but not required! Now install the block off plate to the intake horn. I used the Sinister EGR delete kit. On the back side of the plate is a groove for the o-ring. Just careful press the o-rings into place with your fingers. The groove is tight enough to hold the o-ring for you. Here is where things get a bit more fun. EGR bypass on the passenger side has a set of heat shields. you have to remove them. There are two 8mm head bolts and three 10mm nuts. ew of them are kind of hidden so make sure you find them all. After the heat shield is removed out of the way. Now you can remove the four 10mm bolts holding the exhaust bypass in place. Don't remove at this point leave in place. Just remove the bolts. Now unbolt the stepper motor. It mounted in place with four 10mm head bolts. Leave it in place for right now. Make sure to unplug any electrical on the servo. Now you can remove the bypass valve and the stepper motor together as a unit. Now you have to make a bit of room for the EGR cooler removal. Remove the crankcase vent hose. Also, while your right there remove the two coolant hoses running over the EGR cooler. Now unbolt the two 15mm head bolts mounting the EGR cooler to the manifold. This is a pain in the tail end. The 2 nuts are at the rear of the EGR cooler which are rather difficult to access and see. Take your time. Make sure to fish both nuts before lifting the cooler off. Really would suck to drop a nut into the exhaust manifold and ruin a turbo. Remove the V-band clamp from the exhaust cross over elbow and the EGR cooler. Now you can lift the EGR cooler out. There is a stud that the rear of the cooler mount on. This makes rather difficult and tight quarters lifting the cooler up and attempt to slide out of the mounting bracket. Now the removal of the EGR cooler mounting. There are two 14mm head bolts running from the fender toward the head.They are below the edge of the mounting. Now you can install the block off plates for the exhaust manifold. One plate will have a plug in the center. This one goes to the rear of the manifold. The other block off plate without the port is installed in the front port of the exhaust. You'll be reusing the exhaust gaskets from the old hardware. Now you can reinstall the crankcase vent hose. Using the new coolant hose from the Sinister EGR Delete Kit now connect the two coolant port that went to the EGR cooler. Now in the kit, there is a metal bracket provided to attach the transmission dipstick and coolant tube. The bracket is bolted to the head using the old hardware and its location is directly behind the coolant port on the head. Attach your dipstick tube and coolant tube to this bracket. Refill with coolant. Make sure to open the air bleed port on the coolant line. Check for leaks! (Optional) Install the plastic engine cover. You'll find it rather floppy and not worth installing.DTC 63 - PCM Failure SRI Miles Not Stored & PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied - Test FC-14A Turn ignition on. Using DRB-II, perform SRI memory test. If DRB-II displays WRITE FAILURE, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II displays WRITE REFUSED, go to step 2). If DRB-II displays SRI MILEAGE INVALID, update mileage and retest SRI memory. Perform TEST VER-1. If none of these messages are displayed, compare SRI mileage stored with mileage on odometer. If mileage is same between SRI memory and odometer, retest SRI memory. If mileage differs, update SRI mileage and retest SRI memory. Perform TEST VER-1. If DRB-II displayed WRITE REFUSED, PCM was busy. Using DRB-II, perform SRI memory test. Retest SRI memory 2 more times if necessary. If WRITE REFUSED fault returned, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-1. If WRITE REFUSED fault did not return, test is complete. Perform TEST VER-1.
