
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
Well I just seen a report of Mean Green Alternator glowing red hot for a member over on CF. The other problem if you upgrade size wise you have to now rewire the charging system. The existing wiring will not support a oversize alternator nor will the fuse. So now you have to redesign everything to support the new alternator and fuses it properly as well. Which is why I think the one on CF is glowing red hot is because it failed but there is not fuse in the BATT circuit so the alternator is doing weird things.
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Injector Cleaning 24v Cummins VP44
This article is on how to disassemble a Cummins 24v VP44 injector and thoroughly clean and then reassemble it.For starters, you need to refer back to injector removal and get all 6 Injectors removed from the engine. Once you got all six injectors out you can proceed to clean each injector. But something to be aware of there is small parts and these parts must be put back exactly the way it came apart. WARNING! Only disassemble and clean only 1 injector at a time. All the parts are tuned to that particular body. Don't mix and match parts! Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using the putty knife or a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and an old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the picture above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take an old scotch bright one that's been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes, you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern somewhat but also ensures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has worn marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. The shim has to be this side up... Take notice to the side that has the wear mark for the spring... Then place your spring the body. Then there is a cone shaped piece that goes on top of the spring but make sure to place the hollow side up. This is for the pintle to ride in. The mid body goes on top of this take notice to the pins it will only go on one way... Then your nozzle and pintle go on top to look like this... Here is a good video of how I did each injector.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
Trust me... I understand it very well. Might look over on my side and see my ABS issues. This stems from a bad alternator. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/10753-random-abs-light-and-weird-braking-performance/#comment-122985
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Repriming a Bosch VP44 Cummins Injection System
Reprime Bosch VP44 Injection Pump The Fuel System Cummins This is an article on how to reprime the Bosch VP44 Injection fuel system on a 24V Dodge Ram Turbo Cummins. A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. Primary air bleeding is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. If the vehicle has been allowed to run completely out of fuel, the fuel injectors must also be bled as the fuel injection pump is not self-bleeding (priming). Servicing or replacing components on the fuel return side will not require air bleeding. DANGER! DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE. Loosen, but do not remove, banjo bolt (test port fitting) holding low-pressure fuel supply line to the side of Bosch VP44 injection pump. Place a shop towel around banjo fitting to catch the excess fuel. The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. Turn the key to CRANK position and quickly release the key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds. If fuel is not present at fuel supply line after 25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until fuel is exiting at fuel supply line. Tighten banjo bolt at fuel supply line to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Primary air bleeding is now completed. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine will not start, proceed to following steps. If the engine does start, it may run erratically and be very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. Continue to next step if: The vehicle fuel tank has been allowed to run empty The Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump has been replaced High-pressure fuel lines have been replaced Vehicle has not been operated after an extended period WARNING! Do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes between cranking intervals. Perform previous air bleeding procedure steps using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at fuel supply line before proceeding. Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out the drain manifold. DANGER! THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES. WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. DANGER! ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. The engine may start, may run erratically and be very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. Thoroughly clean area around injector fittings where they join injector connector tubes. Bleed air by loosening high-pressure fuel line fittings at cylinders number 3, 4 and 5. Continue bleeding injectors until engine runs smoothly. It may take a few minutes for the engine to run smooth. Tighten fuel line(s) at injector(s) to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.) torque.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
I would bring the truck and alternator and have it test by him. Explain how the AC noise interferes with the PCM and transmission lockup. It would be a good suggestion to show it to him as well if need be. Then let him do his magic. I'm sure he'll find the problem. Not always will it be diodes. Like my case it was a damaged case, bearing and bad brushes. So then have him re-test after his work and show it to you. Then road test the truck.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
I hate to say it but Google is good at pointing out different things. All I did was look up where your at and then did a search right on Google Maps for alternators and BLAM! The answer was presented. There is my trick...
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
How about... Elkhart Alternators (44 miles away) https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Three+Rivers,+MI/Elkhart+Starter+%26+Alternator,+929+S+Main+St,+Elkhart,+IN+46516/@41.8110582,-85.9453885,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x88170710d6c52557:0x25fbd85923e44ab0!2m2!1d-85.632493!2d41.9439368!1m5!1m1!1s0x8816c2d9ea831df3:0x7289dc3d05e7c286!2m2!1d-85.967482!2d41.679028
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Would there be any interest in a interior refinishing write up?
The door panel fabric is dirty and stained over the years. The carpet is no longer grey in color but a mixture of grey and earth brown. The seats are wore out and I really know they need help. Fabric is starting to tear. Don't help with "Diesel" bounding in over the back of the driver seat. It always been the fall back rig. So I'll start getting busy pulling the carpet pretty soon. I've got a seat out back with electric motor so I can fix my electric driver seat. Been dragging tail about it.
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Would there be any interest in a interior refinishing write up?
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Would there be any interest in a interior refinishing write up?
As for the carpet trick I've already done it once to the 199 Dodger and it turned out like brand new carpet. Hmmm. Do you mid if I hop in with you on this thread? I going to start fixing up the 1996 Dodge with you. Maybe we can work together to gaining the best out come.
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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.
Absolute way of hitting the mode. Is selecting the mode you want BEFORE you turn the key ON. This will set the mode before you even start the engine. After you started you can turn the mode to MPG or OFF. This should get you exactly what you want. If you get the wrong mode. Then you must shut down for at least 15-30 second to clear the software from the ECM. Then on the next start its a blank slate.
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Are you living in the area of isis' hit list?
That right there in my mind doesn't compute... I've spent plenty of time in the back country doing search and rescue missions and fire fighting. I hate to say it there is no way to teach this stuff in a classroom. You have to be put right in the field into the stress and find your place. Like myself I'm NOT a front line fire fighter. I'm a pump panel expert or engine boss. My limited vision without my glass prevents me from being front line. So I specialized in different fields that most don't like. Still rather demanding because I'm accountable for my crews in the field and for equipment coming and going fetching water. I will admit I have respect for my fellow fire fighter and very aware of some that have more experience in different field than I do. I'm smart and take advantage of these folks and put their knowledge to use when I have them. Let's say I'm an odd duck. No matter how rough things get I always manage to pull through and complete the tour be it Search & Rescue or Fire Fighting.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
Just stab in the dark. Have it tested before you leave the store. New is a bit better bit still test before you leave the store. I would avoid chain stores like Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.
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Are you living in the area of isis' hit list?
I'm the same way Wild & Free. I can work for very few people because of clash of personalities or differences. I know that if I was to enlist in the military I would not survive the abusive nature how they treat recruits. After coming out of ITT Tech and getting my first job as a cable assembler in California. After a bad fall out with my Hispanic boss basically told him I wanted my last pay check and was walking out the door. After that I've always managed to stand on my own two feet and provide a job of some sort. I've been hired or ask by people to work for them like "Lindy" or "Steve" both I had issues with at some point or another. Still keep coming back to working by myself and on my own. So as for defending my family and myself. I will do what I have to. Like with all my fire fighter training. I've found that no matter how much training you have your never ready for that next scene. The only thing I can say is some people like myself can think fast on the feet and problem solve rapidly. So as for protection some times you have to act like that deer. Fight or flee natural reaction and being able to think fast on your feet.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
I've seen both Bosch and ND alternators brand new in the box fail just on the test stand. Matter of fact my last alternator "PASSED" with a failed rear bearing, bad brushes, and excessive AC noise. Then the new alternator "PASSED" again and it had twice as much AC noise than my failed alternator. No sale there. So I went to another part store to get another alternator which tested out better than my broke unit. So new or reman'ed doesn't mean it good.
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Stock Lift Pump / Cummins Campaign Pump
Stock Lift Pump / Cummins Campaign Pump There are some serious design flaws in the stock fuel system. The stock lift pump or the Cummins Campaign pumps are both unable to supply enough fuel volume for a hungry Bosch VP44 injection pump. Part of the problem is the stock lift pump is only good for 35 GPH flow rate. However, even Bosch states that the Bosch VP44 injection pump needs at lets 70% of the fuel return to the fuel tank which is used for cooling and lubing the Bosch VP44 injection pump. So how much fuel does the Bosch VP44 injection pump consume at a WOT run? For a stock truck, you could see as high as 18-20 GPH. Now let's do some simple math. 35 GPH - 20 GPH = 15 GPH... Then 15 GPH / 35 GPH = 42% being return to the tank roughly. This is one point of failure with stock lift pumps. This last picture shows the plastic hub that normally starts to slip or breaks this is why I tell people it doesn't matter if the pump makes noise because the motor might be turning, but the pump rotor is no longer spinning. Now the other failure like this is the plastic will start to slip and pressure falls as friction builds up the plastic will melt and bond again, and the pressure rises once more. This what caused the pump above to fail was slippage of the rotor. As for the pressure regulator, I don't have a picture of this, but if you look inside the ports of the lift pump sometimes you can see the spring and check ball (BB) inside one of the ports. This body of the pump is nothing more than pot metal (cast aluminium) which the check ball rattles against the seat of the aluminium until the check ball is leaking pressure back around itself so the pump goes into constant recirculation. The Cummins Campaign Pump is a redesigned lift pump for Cummins’ engines. It was originally designed for the Buses. The campaign pump is identical to the Dodge OEM pump, which is supplied at manufacture, yet is much cheaper in price! Unfortunately, the Campaign pump is no longer available. The ones that are attainable are very expensive; due to demand, but the part number is 4090046 if you want to take your chances. Lift Pump FAQ's Q: What is the voltage to the lift supposed to be? A: Lift pump should have a constant 12 Volt supplied to it while the engine is running. During cranking the lift pump voltage is modulated 50% duty cycle to reduce starting pressure. Q: What's a stock lift pump pressure supposed to be? A: Normally, a good lift pump should be about 14-15 at idle and about 11-12 PSI at wide open throttle at 65 MPH. Q: What is the lowest lift pump fuel pressure allowed? A: No lower than 10 PSI as stated by Dodge and Cummins both. Below this pressure, Bosch VP44 injection pump damage will result. Q: How much volume does a stock lift pump provide? A: Approximately, 35 GPH Q: Is the fuel pump relay in the power distribution center the relay for the lift pump? A: No. This relay is the power supply relay for the Bosch VP44 injection pump. The lift pump has no relays and is directly controlled by the ECM. Q: How long will a stock lift pump last? A: I've seen a little at 10,000 miles, and some have reported as far 100,000 miles. However, at any rate, I would still have a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the lift pump health.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
I really doubt it will. I've only heard of rare cases of it it continuing but typically there is other electrical problems or modifications causing it. Like poorly install "Lockup Switches" or electrical issues inside the transmission like broken wires or bad solenoids.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
Did you unhook both the field lead and the BATT leads?
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Would there be any interest in a interior refinishing write up?
@01cummins4ever Summer time temperatures reaching 117*F and winter time temperatures down to -25*F. Nope... Not a controlled environment. Mostly I kept my truck out of the direct sunlight as much as possible. Always used a sun visor on the windshield, kept the two windows rolled down about 2 inches so cab temperatures never got higher than needed. Like if I park outside I park in the shade of the trees in the yard. Weird but true I used armor-all for many years on this dash. I can tell you it will not cause it to crack but it sure does attract dust and dirt. Wasn't till recently I gave up using it that I noticed the first small crack open up on the driver side right near the defroster vent. I'm wanting to move over to dash rug more so now. As for my dash bezel I broke a chunk out of it from having the GPS cord sneaking out right there and the cord was enough to break the chunk out with all the dash vibrations. @The_Hammer What year of truck do you have? You have the old school head light switch and newer door panels? 98.5 truck? I love the way your door panel came out. What did you use to glue the carpet down? Did you paint the panel too?
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Random ABS light and weird braking performance
Well the ABS module is boxed up and on its way in 2 Day Priority Mail flat rate box. Now I can tell you that deleting the ABS unit is not possible. You lose ABS of course, speedometer, odometer, any kind of trip computer is dead including ScanGauge II. Cruise control is dead. High Idle will not cancel from movement now. So you can launch in any gear in a manual transmission and high idle will drag you around. Another thing found is grid heaters do not cancel because f there is no speed signal. So you grid heater keep cycling while you drive. All I can say is I still have high hopes that Module Master will correct this issue and get the ABS module back to me soon. I've got to admit I've learn quite a bit about ABS modules in this short amount of time.
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Would there be any interest in a interior refinishing write up?
I've got 2 well used trucks that could both have a bit of attention to the interior. Like the 02 has its first dash crack on the passenger side very small at this point. The 96 need attention to plastic parts that are broken or damaged over the years. the 96 dash is in excellent condition yet. Both trucks need the carpet yanked out and power washed. Trust me that really brightens up the carpet and looks good afterwards. All the plastic panels take some Simple Green and scrub brush. So I'm going to follow this thread because MoparMom and myself have decided to keep the 1996 Dodge and restore it a bit that include a paint job this year. I'll be doing the paint and body work.
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HELP!! bad alternator or APPS??
Unhook the alternator take another test drive. APPS sensors don't create lock & unlock issues. To verify the APPS sensor hook up a live data tool and watch the TPS signal. If it not changing during the lock & unlock issues then back to the alternator unhook it. If the problem goes away the alternator failed.
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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.
Pre grid heating is cancelled. Now post grid heating continues. That is normal.
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Teardown and Rebuild
This is one reason I don't like levelling kits on a Dodge. As soon as you put anything in the bed heavy it looks like a Ford truck squatting. As for the compressor I LIKE that... I would love to have a good compressor like that in my shop.
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Winter is coming
2,800 feet. Bill was close. Pollock, ID is 2,500 feet. http://speisa.com/modules/articles/index.php/item.2256/norwegians-and-cold-weather.html