Mopar1973Man

You can Thank @Honey Badger she was the one that suggested I do reviews of products and post them up as videos and/or articles.

Yup. Now I can handle all the rust locked fasteners on truck frames like anti-siezed buttered on the threads. Kwel magic wand eh?

Yup. That is spot on.

Problem isn't the water... The problem is being able to deliver lots of amps of power to create enough HHO to make it viable fuel. Back in 2008 there was kits for diesel but they were needing at least 100 amp to make enough hydrogen to make it worth while. So what current load that on the alternator would be used by the hygrogen fuel to power its self and bit more diesel. That was the entire problem with hydrogen genrators trying to create enough to be consider a fuel source on the intake. As you seen the small bubble was a pretty violent explosion for just a small bubble. It would take much to blow the hood off your truck with a leak and spark like on the slip rings of the alternator. BOOM! You don't get something for nothing... Thinking you can create enough hydrogen it will never happen being the alternator load will always cause a loss. Remember one thing man can neither create or destroy anything. Meaning that even though you converted water with electricity into the two gases hydrogen or oxygen. Then burn the hydrogen it will convert back into water again. Yes its bio-friendly but creating enough explosive hygrogen and not blowing up your truck doing it. Just like propane injection that is another one used to gain MPG's being the propane fogged in the intake will promote complete burning of the diesel fuel. @MnTom back in the day was making high 20's MPG on his truck doing Propane injection. Me... I want to do high 20's without drugs (no propane or hydrogen). I've touched there but cant always keep it but I'm going to continue to work at getting closer to that goal as a constant.

Nope... No need for those things... Now I might be doing that... I'll make sure to smoke it outside. Heck look up the HHO plans you can produce from water hydrogen and Oxygen with a little electric current. Less toxic like the draino and tin foil idea...

I picked this tool up off of Amazon for about $179 dollars. Now I've used torches for heating bolts and fastners in the past and end up burning rubber parts or wires etc. This tool I used yesterday to remove a rusted Pyrometer fitting from a 2005 Dodge that I wanted to install a new pyrometer probe. Being I didn't record that in video I created a quick TikTok for posting this up today. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BQJD85

Then there are some of us that live off a 4kw solar system and only live off 30A service for entire house. This is one reason I would never own a EV. Being my system would never be able to recharge a EV even the current draw would be too much and the system would never handle it. Most of my travel I'm upwards of 300 to 400 miles a trip just for food and supplies.

Leave the heavy red wire to the PDC alone don't remove it. Goes from the driver side positive to the PDC this is the main power lead to the PDC.

Double check the pins in the OBDII port I've had one pin push out and not make contact and cause this very issue. Pop the socket from the dash frame so you have a bit of slack. Then check each wire and you find one that pulls out really easy and the tab that locks has most likely bent just enough not to stay locked.

All I would do is shut the fiel off when it's running and run the fuel out off the carbs. Then unhook the battery and that's it.

Interresting. Would be great for us in Idaho with frosty weather. Heck even my NV4500 runs cold side at about 100 to 110°F on single digit days.

Lewiston ID new years eve it was 4.599 is the lowest I found. Still in Riggins ID was 5.499 here when I came back last night at 11:30pm.

Hopefully everyone is safe... no DUI's? Out here it was silent till around 11:45pm then fireworks went off and I fired three 9mm in the bank behind the house to ring in 2023. There was not traffic and no even a cop on the highway.

Well I would pressurize the air system and look for leaks. Then I would inspect the turbo closely for any rubbing od parts. Like my HX35/40 I fried the bearings in the turbo the compressor wheel is rubbing the housing and does not spin freely. The noise could be a boost leak. Strange but true my 3/4 bushing unscrewed from the manifold and fell out and hung on the boost tubing. Even at zero boost, my EGTs bit higher 900 to 1,000°F but still drove no issues. The sound was very usual. So pressurized the air system you can here the leak easy being the air is rushing out then I saw my boost bushing hang on the tubing. Hua... there is my problem. Fixed.

Even though I've got a bumper pull I weigh it out at least once a year fully loaded to see my net weight to find if my RV needs a diet. Last year I unloaded at least a few hundred pounds of unused junk. If you haven't used these items at least in the last two years it is time to clean out the RV.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRbP7QTh/

Happy New Year Gang! Yup its 12:50am Jan 1st...

Well... I'm starting as low as 60% on Zero boost and ramping to 100% by 5 PSI remain 100% till 15 PSI and ramp up to 150% at 30+ psi. Way better cold engine protection with it locked low like that EGTs max out at the most of 800*F with heavy throttle. Allows for a slow warm up while driving highway speeds. Basically the low end is about perfect stock fuel levels (235 HP at the flywheel). Not even a puff of smoke now it totally clean from launch to WOT. Runs right at 2-3 PSI boost at 65 MPH. Then at 82 MPH I'm barely 650-700*F but twisting 2,450 RPM and still barely 5 to 6 PSI. On snow and ice the performance is much better way less tire spin on the slick roads and builds power slow enough that even more enjoyable to drive. Yeah my trip to Everett WA I was using this new fuel table and highly impressed with the EGT's and driving performance. Pulling a U-haul trailer just about half filled, bucking a head wind, drove through drifting snow, and even managed driving on ice covered roads. Very stable and you don't have to be precise with the throttle with the deep cut at the bottom that you can let your foot twitch and it isn't going to spin the tires out from under you.

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No hardwood up here really. Mostly all soft wood like pine, spruce, white fir, red fir, apline fir, lodge pole pine, Etc. Tamarack is one of the most hunted for trees. It has the highest BTUs and burns clean Next would be Red Fir. Either way I don't care what I burn I just gather what I can get and burn it. When you have 2 building and 3 wood stoves to feed yeah it goes up in smoke rather quickly.

Simple way it just pull the field lead from the back of the alternator. This will virtually be unhooked. No need to remove the battery charge lead. When I was fighting the issues I didn't get the lock and unlock being I'm a manual but I got a wild cruise control where it would be set at 65 MPH and the ramp up to nearly 75 MPH and the drop to about 55 MPH when it started I just pulled over and disconnect the field lead and the issues stopped till I was able to get home and test things out. Since doing the W-T ground wire mod the entire issues has been gone for years now.

Yeah I've never really seen any issues with my truck I don't have any high loads at all on my truck. Most of the lighting is converted to LEDs. The main headlights are HIDs again low amperage draw. Don't have any stereo amps. No winch etc that draws high current other than grid heaters. Never tripped it. Now I've seen other truck that done the W-T ground wire mod and several things will cause the circuit breaker or fuse to fail. Bad batteries - Yup even though it still starts OK if the batteries are weak or have a shorted cell it will constantly trip the breaker till the batteries are replaced. Bad battery terminals - Again creates a weak connection and will not be able to charge the batteries fully which the circuit breaker will trip or fail. High draw devices - Now combine with the two above like having weak batteries and using a winch will trip the breaker or fuse. Weak or damaged alternator - I've seen stock alternators pass the 160 amp point and pop either the circuit breaker or a fuse. If your having issues with keeping fuses or circuit breaker I highly suggest you look at the battery terminal and the main cables first. Then bench test your alternator and check your charge lead. Typically under high load conditions the batteries are suppose to cover the load until the load is gone. I've seen guys put 100 foot a winch cable out and lay on the winch constantly with the engine running and the batteries start to drop charge quickly and the alternator will ramp up full throttle which typically can and will blow a fuse or circuit breaker.

Yeah I know it just as well. I've got a plan in place to hopefully be able to retire from wrenching in my 60's if possible. I'm currently looking for an apprentice o teach my skills and knowledge to and be able to hand the wrench work to this person. I want to get back to what I love doing is working the website but like most you notice that there is time where I disappear for periods and then pop back up. Those days I've been super busy work till 5 pm or later some days, wore out and hurting. This last summer I went camping with both @IBMobile and @JAG1 for there trip. Then one more time with @Honey Badger that was it my RV has been parked most of the summer and fall. Yeah I'm ready to break out and do camping and fishing. Last spring even @Honey Badger bought me a new fishing pole and never even used it being so busy with wrenching jobs. I want to change that this coming year and get a balance to my life to hopefully have a little fun and have a bit of spare time to have some fun memories.

I've been back on my stock turbo HX35W (54/60/12). Still doing good with my +150HP injectors. I see zero need for even a bigger turbo or twins any time soon. Heck with my current setup and tune I see maybe 0 to 1 PSI of boost at 55 MPH and at 65 MPH maybe 2 to 3 PSI of boost. WOT I'm set up for 35 PSI and very very difficult to even reach the 1,200*F EGT's. I will say the biggest thing to make it spool fast and stay cooler EGT's is attempt to get the final ratio close to 3.73 to the ground. Just a sample...

Can you post a link please... Nevermind I found it... https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3959453-s/