Mopar1973Man

Time to pull the drums...

Actually you should do the the W-T ground wire mod. The AC noise issues from the charging system is the cause of the electronics failure. No because the PSG is damaged on the VP44 so hot wiring will net you the same results too because the fuel signal is missing.

P0252 code... There is no fuel signal to the fuel pin in the pump so no fuel can be injected. I'm sorry to say but your going to need to replace that VP44. I would suggest giving our site vendor a call @dieselautopower and pick up a new injection pump and just replace it.

Fast Coolers really don't do much other that give a fooled read that is lower because the sensor is away from the actual gear and the fluid appears cooler. What got me thing on those was when I was measuring fluid temps using a meat thermometer and just dipped in the hole was cooler than measure near the gear teeth which was way hotter. So Fast Cooler just moves the sender away from the source of heat and showing the cooled stagnate oil in the coolers. I've got no coolers but the temperature sensor near the PTO gear and give really good accurate reading being it closest to the gears. As for my set up I've heat shielded the exhaust pipe that was worth a good 30*F reduction in temperature. Now the only time I've seen high transmission temperatures was on my trip to Bridgeport CA where the head winds caused the rise being I'm pulling 17,500 pound total weight and bucking winds it was reaching 200 to 210*F since then no issues typically between 150 to 170*F running temperatures. I didn't opt for wrapping the pipe because of the amount of salt used out here that would soak up the salt and rot the exhaust pipe out faster. Even mud will do an excellent job of rotting out a wrapped pipe being every time it get wet it will soak through the fiberglass wrap. Located next to the PTO gear. Using a ISSPro EV2 gauge been programmed for warning light of 225*F.

@AH64ID what's weird is i got the grid heater light but did not get the error codes for the fuel leak. The code I did get was grid heater performance error. Cleared it out and it didn't come back at all.

I've seen where one shoe lost a nail and spring it would be fine forward but made all kinds of racket in reverse. Just the loose hardware can do that. Worth it to investigate both rear brakes and driveline.

If your going to check the driveshaft I woulds suggest just pulling the entire shaft out and inspect. Its very difficult at time to feel a bad u-joint while it mounted even with the rear axle off the ground. It will show up better with the shaft removed. Matter of fact that is a video I'll be producing here soon doing Thor's u-joints in the rear I've got a vibration at 65 MPH. As for the brakes drums its possible to have a broken spring or hardware dragging in the drums so it wouldn't hurt to pop those tires off and inspect the drums and hardware for any damage and repair. There is rear drum hardware kits you can pick up at like a NAPA or similar store.

Here we go for Number 4 injector line replacement. Oh don't be too critical I know i fouled the camera angle again. I know the work space is dark in the video but I got a photo added to the article which was updated. Things I've learned just pull the two 10mm bolts out first. Then might work a bit better to have a wobble joint.

Got the new injector line for Thor here I'll be gearing up to do the video here shortly on how to install.

Biggest challenge is creating CCD bud and sending the gauge data back on the bus. Then creating error codes for out of range stuff

Very impressive to build both a PSG and ECM.

Shaking my head... I exercise my truck daily right up to 3,000 RPM at a WOT stand at least once a day. Just did that coming home yesterday passed a slow Ford and took it to 95 MPH. Wastegate set for 35 to 37 PSI. That with a stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) and +150 HP (7 x 0.010) injectors.

No. The sensor is submerged in the oil but the hottest spot is near the gear teeth. The PTO gear is the closest to the cover which will draw the hot oil to the sensor showing the hottest temperature. Where fast cooler bring the sensor away from the gears an of course the temps look cooler but actually still hot at the gear teeth hence why the claim it runs cooler.

I use the transmission temp for the oil filter test plug that way to track the engine oil temperature. Also if you do use that transmission temperature sensor make sure that you DO NOT use any thread sealants. No tapes or paste sealants. This will skew the ground signal to the body of the transmission or oil filter housing.

Torsion axles used on RVs and utility trailers out here too. Never did like that design of axle for that reason. After a time the rubber degrades from Ozone and then the spring action weakens and the axles could lean in too. Never seen one but I can see how it could over time. I know even the old leaf springs can fail just the same too. Broken spring bolts, u-bolt failures, broken leaf springs, damaged or broken balance beam (multi-axles).

My question is can you adjust the wastegate rod tight enough to hold the gate shut till needed? If the bracket is shortened the the rod length is loner now and the spring in the wastegate motor is going to be too loose and the gate will blow open easily.

I typically do not use my phone at all, unless I'm doing tune work. Once the tune work is done I don't bother to use my cellphone or even open the tuner. I just use my a-pillar gauges and then the truck looks totally stock and less likely for anyone to steal your truck or break-in because there is no tablet, phone, or display even visible. Best yet get people that don't know you to get into the truck without a display and then they are thinking how is this stock-looking truck so FAST?!?! I want the Bluetooth for my stereo, rocking out to tunes as I travel. Yeah I know I still could but the music is much clearer and less hiccups in the music because of low bandwidth of the Bluetooth with all the data streaming for music and gauge data.

My biggest leak right now is the power steering pressure hose which is weep through the jacket of the hose. Other than that not much for oil leaks. Yeah I would say so being this one has been on the roof once. Little metal damage but still in great shape. Needs TLC on other things like the wheel joint that someone welded in. Yeah I know that 2001 Jeep suppose to have CV joints but this one has a 1997 Jeep front axle with wheel joints. Once past those two issue here soon then its on to fixing minor stuff like plastics and some wiring.

Doesn't help either with a weeping line. Still in all 220k on injectors I would pull all 6 injectors and crossover tubes and replace all 6 crossover tubes, o-rings and injectors. I highly suggest getting +50 HP injectors from @dieselautopower and then I know all 6 are flow matched and tested. This will resolve all this issue.

Injectors are shot. Injectors need to be changed ever 100k to 150k miles other than that engine damage might occur.

Most of ot is learning the limitations of the camera like I was experimenting with the photo function on the GoPro and found the photo function is limited to scenery photos but close up photo turn fuzzy. My Samsung S21 did much better for close up photos. Same for lighting I figured the aperture was going to automatically open more and handle a low light condition but it didn't.

I'm glad the Quadzilla tuner and tunes listed here was helpful for your case. I'm wondering how is the power difference now being re-geared to 3.73?

No problem. I've got the same challenge with coming back from Riggins, ID. It's a mild grade but hauling weight it does hang the EGTs high so the last mile shut down the exhaust brake and gear down with the engine and it cools right out.

I've got to ask how many miles on the truck? Then ive got to askhave you ever replaced injectors? Injectors are only good for 100k to 150kmiles and should be replaced. Reading back now I would say there is a injector(s) that are most likely leaky and/or not spraying good.

Torque converter load in gear it allows the engine to turn but added load. 450°F seem reasonable.