Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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This is roughly the temperature vs color on steel and cast iron.
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Biggest thing is getting the torque converter locked up as soon as possible. Proper final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 is going to keep trans temp down more so. Trans temp is a sign of power loss by too much supplied power and/or working load.
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The ISSPro EV2 gauges can be programmed to control the fans. Basically have the Trans Temp gauge set for tripping the aux relay that plugs into the gauge and it can control the fan. Then you can also program the warning light for a higher temp. Being I've got manual trans I really don't need this function but... I might be designing a trans cooler set up.
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Mine is way different its two body halves with a spring and check ball inside the unit. As you screw it together it increases the boost pressure, loosen then there is less boost pressure. I gave up on those boost elbows since its just a controlled boost leak and now a regulator for the wastegate. The check ball keeps the line closed till the boost pressure is enough to open and push the wastegate. This also has a small bleed hole too to release the waste gate after the pressure falls again but works way better than those boost elbows. I got mine off of eBay from a place in China it took awhile but it was a mere $15 bucks or so.
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Wiper Motor Replacement The 3rd gen wiper system sadly is one piece. I lost one the joints to the passenger side wiper arm and fell off. Yeah I know the links could be replaced but the chances are the ball stud is going to be too worn out. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE81921851?impressionRank=5 You only need a torx screwdriver for the two screw on the edge of the cowl. Then there is a series of plastic fasteners along the engine edge of the cowl cover. Once loose at that point you need to release the wipe arms and blade assemblies. There is a little lever on the glass side of each arm pull it out and away from the arm and the wiper arm will lift right off. Now the cowl kind of push it forward towards the glass a bit and i will release the snaps and lift straight up. I just left the washer line hooked up on mine and just move the cowl forward on the engine. Just need a 10mm socket and remove the 3 bolts hold the assembly and unplug the motor. At this point just reverse the process to go back together.
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He basically is turning around so fast there is no stock. He will receive yours rebuild and send back out. takes just about a hour or two to go through and he'll have it sent back out the next day.
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This can stem from low pop injectors too. As the injectors wear the pop pressure falls below 293 bar and timing will advance again. Just in the injectors I run I'm adding about 2 degree because I set for 320 bar which makes the injection event late. As the pop pressure falls the event becomes early, or advance the timing.
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I've made the same mistake years ago and no longer running to Cumnins or Mopar for any parts. Over priced reboxed junk with Cummins logo. Just like Mopar filters are just rebadged fleetguard. As for gasser filter Mopar filter is actually a Fram. Again just rebadged and still junk but pay big bucks.
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I'm not a Cummins parts fan being most parts are NOT produced by Cummins and not worth the money. I've seen failed head gaskets (Cummins HG made by BLK) in under 1k miles, Cummins thermostats (made by Mr. Gasket). They are not that sensitive being Timbos APPS is not even a Cummins product or designed for our engine but it works for over 250k miles till mine finally wore out. Just consider the high idle switch again not designed by Cummins but it works no issue by hundreds for people. Again not that sensitive.
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For 50 HP injectors stock turbo should be fine. I'm running 150 HP injectors on my stock HX35W (54/60/12). Climbing 7,500 into Bridgeport, CA. No EGT issues at all. My biggest problem was transmission temp that was running high from head winds. Total weight was 17,500 pounds. Boost limited to 35 PSI. Again my final ratio is 3.69 running on 245/75 R16 tires. This is the huge part having proper final ratio. Might be pizza cutter but no EGT issues.
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I'm starting to think a 64/71/14 is just too big of a turbo. Being I'm on a stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) with 150HP injectors and EGTs are still controlled. Made my trip to Bridgeport, CA and haul my RV to 7,500 feet of elevation. The total weight scaled was 17,500 pounds total truck and trailer. I ran level 3. The only problem I had was head wind which got the trans temp up to 220°F. No EGT issues. My boost is limited to 35 PSI total.
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Did you contact @Auto Computer Specialist and discuss with them?
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I'm think turbo cap for pressurizing the intake and air system for testing. Not a blowby test because blowby test you can pass with a cracked piston but would fail if a compression test was done.
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I made mine from just plumbing parts at the hardware store. Drilled a hole and installed a air chuck.
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Should of done a blue top steering box. Yeah I've had a few issues but Ryan took care of me promptly. He also took the time to verify what was going on with the box and steering. @Blue-Top Steering
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Tach signal is dropping out and ECM is in limp mode trying to keep it running. Might try the new sensor. While the sensor is out you might want to check the tone wheel inside to see if it loose on the crank. I've seen one case here on the website where the tone wheel got loose and was tore off the crank.
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Both Beast and Thor are KYB currently. Last batch of shocks was Rancho shocks. Lasted a good 150k miles.
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Oh fuel pressure during cranking should be 7 to 12 PSI max. Anything over 12 PSI will cause over advancement and not start hence why there is a relay mod to hold the lift pump off till started for the troublesome cases.
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I'm using my stock HX35W turbo against my +150 HP injectors (7 x0.010 popped at 320 bar). Towed my RV and ATV in the back roughly 17,500 pounds total weight. No EGTs issues. Gearing is extremely important. I'm 3.55 gears but with 245/75 R16 tires I'm 3.69 final to the ground so EGTs are rarely even an issue.
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Remember the DemonRats want all the teenagers to have 15 dollar an hour burger flipper. What do you think prices of the burger is going to be?
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You could jump the fuel pump relay to supply power to the VP44. Hard to tell really some just seems to ooze and others will spray the hood.
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Yup everything is going up in price. Heck you can't get a hambuger in Riggins ID for less than 13 bucks.
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Dude that's better than Mono Village. Nice place. You need to look up a few members in Florida and see if you can meet some of the gang.
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Nope. I had to be over 55 PSI on boost, then my drive pressure was thru the roof which made the cylinder pressures high enough to blow my fuel system out (greater than 4,500 psi) which was enough to blow the gasket. I was also running high timing too. That gasket blew with ARP 425 studs torqued to 125 ft/lbs. Second failed gasket was a defective gasket (Cummins OE) and it blew out sitting in the parking lot and started pissing coolant and not even running. Gasket material let go of the metal base in several place. Now in all back together and torqued to 135 ft/lbs now. No issues towing all the way to Cally and back home to Idaho. That was with head winds and constant boost at 30 PSI and cruise set at either 55 or 60 MPH. 1,100°F EGTs for miles.
