Gil2264

Checked out your site...looks good, but didn't see much that looked like "in depth diesel guru-age" like this site. About these tractors, they are all full time working farm tractors. The 6405 is probably the hardest working tractor on the farm. Its the mid sized all around tractor. It pulls in most of the loads at harvest time (Now), and good old western PA has plenty of hills to make it work hard. It also does most of the planting, brush hogging, and any other tasks that don't require the 100 hp tractors. It gets plenty of chances to burn out the carbon, but it consistently smokes on down grades. Whats coming out of the stack is plain old raw fuel, same as you get on a frigid morning. Thats why I think fuel is leaking from the injectors at low pressure when it shouldn't be entering the cylinder at all. But thats just a theory.

We have three John Deere tractors. Two 2006 model 6615's and one 2001 model 6405. The 6405 has started blowing large amounts of blue white (unburnt fuel) smoke when going down hill under partial throttle. Now one of the 6615's is beginning to to the same. Pulling the throttle back to idle stops the smoke. I'm kind of suspecting leaky injectors. But I'm not a diesel mechanic. Some of our other older tractors are also beginning to smoke. Should we be adding two stroke oil to their fuel due to the ULSD. Any input would be appreciated.

New fuel pressure problems...I used to have problems with sudden pressure drops, so Installed a Raptor 100 Lift pump. It's worked quite well up until my last 300 mile trip. Now my fuel pressure spikes (up to 30 psi) on long low throttle cruising, and at idle. The electronic fuel pressure sender (Glow Shift) is isolated from the VP inlet by a 16" grease gun hose. Would this seem like enough of a "Snubber", or should I get a needle valve? A buddy of mine has a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. We'll hook it up in a few days and compare readings. I just wondered if anyone else has ever had problems with a Raptor 100 spiking. Idle fuel pressure is set at 15-17 psi.

Funny, I used to haul NRLM (Non-road, Locomotive and Marine (500 PPM-dyed diesel)) to Black Thunder Coal Mine is Wyoming. We'd haul 1 load/day up there for a week, then DRY DRAIN the compartments (stick a metal bucket under the outlets and open the valves to get out any residual AT THE FUEL TERMINAL) then load clear diesel to go to the service stations. There is a site glass on the discharge valve, the fuel always came out clean and clear (Sometimes green) and there were never any problems that i ever heard of with cross contamination. I don't have my handy little cheat sheet here, but I'm pretty sure that company standard practice. I'm not sure why it seems so hard to clean out of the system. On second thought, maybe we had to haul a full load of gasoline before hauling clear diesel. It's been 2 years. Gasoline is a hell of a tank cleaner.

So...get me oriented here. The elbow is the inlet line, the boss to the right of it is where the overflow valve connects? What bolts on over the cavity? The Computer?

I wonder of there's a difference between the the HX, and HY's. I have the HX, and like several other posters here, barely notice a difference, certainly not enough to become annoying on extended trips. Others here seem to notice a huge difference and/or find it enough to be annoying. Maybe i just got used to it from my OTR days.

Verdict...Not worth the 10 min's to install. Itty bitty little puff of smoke when starting from a dead stop, barely visible, and definitely hinders acceleration. Most I could achieve was about 15 psi of boost. P.S. Yes I know, the "I told ya so's" are on the way. But hey, few of us would be on here if we weren't tinkerers.

This can be heard with a smoke switch. Just ramp up the RPM's about 1,200 RPM's and then toggle the smoke switch on and off and listen to the injection rattle. normal MAP will have rattle and force high boost will loose rattle (retarded timing).

Ok, so increased boost/MAPP signal retards timing. I wasn't sure which way it goes. Can't really read the numbers, but it looks like an 8-10 psi reading would give the most aggressive timing curve. Am I reading that correctly? I have noticed that the truck really takes off at about 10 psi. Oh well still something to tinker with. Switched the Puck and Fooler this morning, before taking a hundred mile parts run. Didn't really notice much if any difference, but didn't throw any codes.

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I've posted this question before, but without the graphics. The answer usually came back to plug the fooler into the MAPP sensor first, but there was never an explanation as to why. I'll cross my fingers and give it a try.As for the "smoke switch" I have no real illusions or desires to be "Rolling Coal". I'm Mostly interested in seeing if it adds any low end power, and/or quicker spool up from idle.Of course, it might be nice to puff a little black smoke now and then...Just enough to say "No Dude...It ain't a Hemmi."

I've been around this block before, Which comes first, the puck or the fooler. Here are some diagrams to explain my theories. also, I'm thinking of trying to add a smoke switch, but I seem to be getting two stories 1. the signal voltage INCREASES as boost pressure increases. 2. the signal voltage DECREASES as boost pressure increases. It would also seem that having a Boost Fooler between the "Smoke Switch" and the ECM harness would eliminate the need for a resistor inline with the switch as the fooler should keep you boost signal from getting out of spec.thoughts, theories, b!#@#*$ or complaints welcomed...I have a thick skinA correction on the diagrams: Ignore anything about a smoke switch on Diagram 2, its not in there. I copied pasted and edited the notes from a later page.I would try to make my smoke switch connections on the boost fooler as 1. It has the easiest access to its wires. 2. It is the easiest and cheapest part to replace. [ATTACH]1259[/ATTACH] ECM Wiring Theories.pdf

Raptor and Big Line Kit installed...'Nuff said.

Summer's never coming again...We killed it trying to stop "global warming".

I believe that they changed fuel filter in 99, or 2000. It shows the older style with both the inlet and outlet lines at the top of the filter. On mine, the inlet is on the rear to the filter, and the outlet is on the bottom. You change the filter from the top.

I'm not an engineer, but I sure that there's a reason why almost every 18 wheeler out there uses an inline 6.

You notice the unemployment rate kind of follows the 2008 Presidential Primaries, and election. It stayed pretty steady until Spring of '08, then as the presidential candidates were whittled down, Clinton, McCain, and Obama. (All of whom supported Cap and Trade) Businessess and investors started getting scared. By election time, everyone was scrambling to hold onto whatever they had as it was clear we were going to be stuck with a Communist who was pushing for Socialized Medicine, and Cap and Trade...Just my take on things...

Why spend almost $300 for a tool that I hope I NEVER have to use again when I can borrow it for free from Autozone. Hence the old addage..."Why buy the cow when you can get the milk for free." I don't want to scare anyone off from working on their own vehicle...Just giving him fair warning. They can be a PITA, Especially if you've never done them before, and even worse, if you don't have the right tools beforehand.

Guess I need to update my signature line.

Love that front bumper...Where'd you get it/Who Makes it?

Just got my Raptor 100 on last night. I bagged the ends of the old system, but left it in place. The old pump was acting up, but hadn't quit yet, It should be easy to reconnect the 2 ends, and the electrical plug if the raptor should ever quit. (I love redundancy) After 10 minutes idling to purge the new system, I changed out the old fuel filter. Fuel pressures was only showing about 15 psi. Took it for a test drive. Pressures quickly dropped to <10 psi during acceleration. Came Home. Turned regulator up to 18 psi, Pressure still dropped quickly. Turned regulator up to 22 psi, Pressures never dropped below 17, Backed Pressure down to 20 psi even. Now pressures only drop to 15...13 if I'm really hard into it. Question is...Is 20 psi at idle a good pressure to run? I keep seeing 18 psi max in posts, but I don't like the large drops I'm seeing at that pressure. 20 psi seems to be giving me more consistent pressures. I just don't want to risk any IP damage.Question 2...I didn't change the line from my stock fuel filter to my VP44. My fuel pressure sender is connected at my VP44 inlet via a 16" grease gun hose. Could the small line, and banjo bolts be causing the pressure drops at 18 psi and below?

I've seen that article more times than I can remember, and it makes a lot of sense...The problem is I have searched high and low, but have yet to find those elusive magical offset Bushings. I don't think they exist for the 2001 Dana 60. There are bushings on lighter duty and 2 wheel drive models, and thats probably what the writer was referring to, but there're no upper ball joint BUSHINGS on a 2001 Dodge Dana 60 front axel. You CAN buy special offset ball joints, but they are not adjustable, and not MOOG, and therefore probably not going to last very long.

I went with Greaseable Moogs. Got them on Amazon Uppers $53.77 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B000C59Z0O/ref=au_pf_dp_chart Lowers $53.61 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B000C5443W/ref=au_pf_dp_chart Trust me, they are a royal PITA. As far as removing the unit bearings, I broke a 3 jaw gear puller, then borrowed my neighbors, it was heavier duty and was a fine thread. I actually started pulling the bearings out of the pillow block. I had to put the hub nut back on and crank it down for all I was worth to press the hub back together, Finally after copious amounts of heat, and PB Blaster, I was able to get the unit bearing out in one piece. On to the Ball Joints...Do yourself a favor, Go to Autozone and borrow the ball joint puller. It's the only way you're going to get them out, and don't be afraid to use about a 5 foot cheater bar to turn that thing. They are an unholy beast to press out. To get the clamp to fit over them the right way, you have to take the screw completely out of the C-clamp, Line everything up, then thread it back in. Again, I used copious amounts of heat and more Blaster. ***WARNING*** Both of my Upper Ball joints Exploded due to the heat and pressure applied by the puller. The first one to go scared the He## out of me, I thought the Cast Iron Knuckle had exploded, bit it was just the pin pushing through the top of the joint and the now vaporized grease igniting. I suggest throughly wire brushing, and/or cleaning the Unit bearing and steering knuckle, and then Anti-Seizing every pressed or screwed in part before reassembling. It makes Assembly much easier, and may help if you ever have to do this again in the future. You will also need the ball joint puller to install the new ball joints. I would suggest lightly sanding (chamfering) the leading edge of the lower ball joint before installing to keep it from gouging into the side of the bore hole. temporarily install the grease fitting, to keep any metal shavings from falling into the grease port. The directions show installing the lower joints with the grease fittings pointed straight ahead. I installed mine pointed slightly in, so that I could get to them with the wheels pointed straight ahead. I haven't had any problems with them hitting anything...your preference. Good Luck...I hope I never have to do that job again. Keep lots of grease in those joints.

I've always had bad experiences with "mechanics". It always costs 3 times what it cost me to fix it, and they always seem to cut corners, or break something else. I worked for a mechanic for two weeks as a teen. This guy routinely broke stuff then quipped. "Well, guess they needed on of those too." Back in my GM days, I replaced lower ball joints 2 years in a row. It would have been 3 years in a row, but i bought the GM factory service manual, and found out that the Lower ball joints on my Jimmy always have a little play in them, up to 1/8th inch is good! After that I took my Chevy to the GM garage for annual inspection thinking maybe these guys were a little more professional. NOT!!!, I watched the mechanic through the glass to see how he checked the ball joints, and if he was going to try to get me on ball joints as well. The first thing that SOB did was take a utility knife and cut the boot off the lower ball joint so that he could get his pry bar in there. I FLIPPED. I went into the shop yelling WTF!! I grabbed the boot off the floor and screamed "why the hell would you cut this off?" He said it was ripped. I twisted and turned that boot every which way til Sunday, the only thing wrong with it was the nice fresh clean knife cut that he made. I told him "Inspection's over, get my GD vehicle off that lift. I went into the service managers office and raised some more hell. He said he'd have the mechanic replace the part for free. I told him the mechanic was not to even touch my truck again. Just give me the GD part and I'd do it myself. Ever since then, I try to avoid ever letting a mechanic touch my vehicles. I cringe every time I have to leave it in the hands of an inspection mechanic.

Twas afraid of that...

Parts all arrived and finally got time to install them all. Put the gauge in first, I added it to the 3/4" Port on the intake manifold, just in front of the MAPP Sensor. Is this an accurate location, or do most people drill the intake horn? I was getting about 23 psi, with only the Puck installed. Added the Fooler between the MAPP sensor and the Puck harness and the boost elbow. I still wonder if you want to fool the Puck. The Puck is a performance module, and I can't help thinking it might perform better if it was getting actual boost readings. As it is, I'm now maxing out at about 31 psi. I can definitely feel and hear the difference. Although the different sound may also be the small bleed hole in the elbow blowing off.