ABennin

A blond walks up to a soda machine and puts in 2 quarters. She presses the selection button and out comes a soda.While she is doing this a man walks up behind her and watches her put in 2 quarters, press the button and receive another soda. She does this 2 more times and then he asks if he can use the machine to get a soda.She replies "go away I'm winning".

I agree on the adapters 100%. When I said converted this is what I have.

I have a 5th wheel and gooseneck hitchs and I like the 5th wheel better. I have a trailer that has been converted from gooseneck hitch to 5th wheel. Once the landing gear hits the ground and the weight is off with a 1/2" of clearance, I can drive away. Less jacking under load. Articulation has never been a problem, I have a standard reese hitch that I bought off CL for $150. It was steal, the guy towed a trailer up here from AZ and sold it. The hitch was like new. 5th wheel is easier to hook up IMO. Back up and wait for it to lock. Easier to see than gooseneck ball. On a sidenote I like the teflon plate for the king pin, elimantes the grease mess and having a plug in the box is really handy.

Blue pill please, as long as it is not a suppository(probably is since that's the only way the government knows how). Raw milk is good. I have had it countless times in my cereal. I also like pasturization. It takes care of one problem but creates another. Seems that happens with everything. My sister who works at a hospital lab always tells me I have a good immune system because of working on the farm. And those people who are not exposed to germs and bacteria don't have their immune system built up. So they would have a higher a chance than me of getting sick from raw milk. I work between two farms. On the main one I milk cows and I prep them for milking. No matter much you try you will never get them totally clean. The BC of the bulk tank is normally under 10,000 with a limit of 100,000. Some times you can go for a couple weeks with no units getting kicked off and then it can 5 times in a milking. That is when we see a spike in the tank. As for bacteria in the udder. What about mastitis and SCC counts. A cow will always have a SCC count which means she's fighting off infections. We average around 100-150k SCC. Last week we had a cow with a 5.6 million cell count with no visible signs of mastitis. She is currently treated and the milk is thrown out. She has always been high but not this high. The milk company is very good about paying for tests on samples we send with the route driver. We work very hard to get the cell count down. They want low SCC/BC milk with good components for their cheese and we do too because it affects the premiums. Now they(cheese plant) have self-imposed SCC limit of 400k even though the state is at 750k. This way they can sell to Europe, where the limit is 400 and get $75 a pound for some their specialty cheese's. So I think raw milk is fine for those people who have healthly immune systems. A number of years ago I was in St Louis for a PAS(Post secondary Agriculture Students)conference and someone in the hotel lobby asked about the conference. I was with a couple classmates and not far in too it they asked "what do you do with the antibiotic milk?" Shawn replied with "we give it to the innercity kids, they need all the help they can get." They believed it before we told them the truth. Also kind of off subject I do not know why people have such a stigma about 2% or whole milk being too fatty. Think about it, it is 98% fat free .

I have 2 caps in VG condition for the Alloy wheels. Last time I bought tires I needed to replace two rims and they came with the caps. If you are interested in them PM me.Edit: That's only dust on them, They have been sitting up in the garage for a number of years.

13 MPG ouch. I went and fiqured out my fuel consumption for the last year. There was no changes to the truck through out the year. It stays in the garage during the winter until the roads clear off. So outside temp was above 30 degrees for all of it. I started driving it on 3-19-12 and parked on 11-21-12. I fill at the same gas station, if I fill anywhere else I make a note of it. I did fill the truck once at Fleet Farm last year and that was it, everything else came from the same pump at the same gas station. So I feel my gallons added is accurate. Total gallons used - 314.715Total cost - $1242.33Miles driven - 5,362Avg MPG - 17.037My best was in April I went down to Chicago with my uncle to look at an '06 Dodge diesel(he bought it). It was a mix of 60 and 70 MPH with 45 minutes spent sitting in traffic idling due to construction. I averaged 22.62 MPG with a head wind on the way down and tail wind on the way back. I was not driving for milage, I was driving how I normally drive.My worst was in July. Went camping with the 32ft gooseneck enclosed trailer in tow. It weighs around 9k loaded on average. I filled up at the station with the trailer and drove to the campground. Didn't drive anywhere with the truck. Then drove home and filled up at the same station with the trailer still in tow. Well over half of the miles were interstate driving at 70 MPH. Head wind on the way there and tail wind on the way back. I averaged 14.48 MPG. I towed alot last year it was probably 50/50 overall. The gooseneck enclosed trailer probably accounts for 2/3rds of the tow miles with a boat taking care of the remainer. This year should be interesting with the Spyntec's. Itching to get it out if it ever warms up and the roads clear. Also I keep all this in a notebook in the truck. Just thought I would post for comparsion.

Thank you at the time we had multiple projects going on at the same time and the garage was littered with parts. I went back and reread the posts and it was my bad for some reason I thought lift pump. I was thinking maybe a FASS or Airdog that separate air out of the fuel could quite down injectors and smooth out the idle. I think I will make a video once. My friend has smart phone so I will see if we can make a quality video. I hope to have something by the end of the week. I will let you know.

I would say that is how I would descripe the Colt. I don't remember the profile of the old cam, it is long gone. I do remember the intake was sharper than the exhaust but can't say more than that. Unfortunately this is the only picture I have of the stock 24 valve cam. Happy hour started shortly after a long day of tear down. [TABLE] [TR] [TD=colspan: 7]Cummins 5.9 and 4BT Cams Cam Specs [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=colspan: 2]Duration [/TD] [TD=align: right]Cam [/TD] [TD=align: right]Lobe [/TD] [TD] ROCKER RATIOS: 12V - 1.75/1 INT/EXH 24V - INT 1.5/1 EXH 1.4/1 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Prof. I.D.# [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD=align: right]@ .050 [/TD] [TD=align: right]ADV. [/TD] [TD=align: right]Lift [/TD] [TD=align: right]Sep [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]INT. [/TD] [TD] 159° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.235 [/TD] [TD] 102.0 [/TD] [TD]Stock 2nd Generation 12V 1994-1998.5 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]EXH. [/TD] [TD] 204° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.263 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]INT. [/TD] [TD] 159° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.235 [/TD] [TD] 107.5 [/TD] [TD]Stock 2nd Generation 24V 1998.5-2002 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]EXH. [/TD] [TD] 206° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.297 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]INT. [/TD] [TD] 163° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.237 [/TD] [TD] 98.5 [/TD] [TD]Stock 24V C.R. 2003-2007 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD]EXH. [/TD] [TD] 191° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.299 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Stage 1 [/TD] [TD]INT. [/TD] [TD] 175° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.251 [/TD] [TD] 103.0 [/TD] [TD]Hi Torque, bottom end fuel economy cam. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] C.332.S [/TD] [TD]EXH. [/TD] [TD] 206° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.297 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] DISCONTINUED [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Stage 2 [/TD] [TD]INT. [/TD] [TD] 175° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.251 [/TD] [TD] 104.0 [/TD] [TD]New torquer cam. Better exhaust flow and better fuel economy. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] C.341.S [/TD] [TD]EXH. [/TD] [TD] 210° [/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD] 0.307 [/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] I "borrowed" this from Colt Cams for the profiles. On a side note I did not know they stopped selling the stage 1.

I got to do some digging on my lift pump today. Sorry I was vague in the other post. It is a Carter P4601HP. From what I have found it flows "100 GPH at 14psi free flow". It was a BD Diesel kit. I still have the factory filter housing and the pressure is being read at the injection pump inlet. Thank you in advance.

People are too busy with their electronic devices or whatever it is that they don't pay attention to their surroundings. I am small town and when I go to a big city I can't wait to leave. Awareness level increases, especially when it gets dark. The way people look at you or an expression. I couldn't live there, it would drive me crazy.Then I go to the same restaurant on the same day of week and see the same people along with some new faces. I notice the new faces but think nothing more of it. The waitress sees me walking in and she has a Coke waiting at my seat. She knows my order by heart and my bill will be $9.98. We talk about the usual and end it with see you next week. When I am alone I tend to listen more and be more attentive of what is going on around me. It can be quite interesting sometimes. If I have company along I tune into the conversation and tune out what is going on around me. After reading this I just never realized it. Your awareness level or guard fluctuantes and it isn't given a second thought because I am use to my surroundings. :thankyou:for the post.

I have a Carter pump located as close to the fuel tank as I can get. That was the first thing I put on the truck after buying it 7 years ago. Looking into a fass due to the age of the pump in the future. When warm I see 15 idle and 13 cruising, cold substract 1 each. I know I am on low part of the pressure for the VP but the darn thing is still working.What AH64ID said about his cam I can say about mine except the noise. The truck pulls harder in the lower rpms and noticed a bump in fuel economy.

Currently installing Spyntec's with new u joints. Ball joints look good so not gonna mess with them. They were replaced once already. New transmission oil, coming up on 50k since it was last changed. I plan on a new steering gear in the near future and am looking at adding on a cooler. I found a basic power steering cooler at autozone for $20, but haven't dug into it too much yet to see how it would work.Way down the road I want to get a limited slip installed in the rear end and possibly rebuild it at that time if needed. Rebuild the trans(upgrade?). Fluid damper.

Not trying to derail but I got a question. Since the cam install I have been told on more than one occasion that my truck sounds like a 12 valve. There is a noticable difference at idle especially. Not so rattlely and more mellow I guess you could say. So I am thinking the cam must be part of mix. Please do tell I would like to know more on why, this has been very interesting to read. Edit: I have a Colt Stage 2.

Hope that works for ya. The pedal in the car would stick too when all the way to the floor when bleeding. We too got dumped on with 15 inches of wet snow.

The washers and O rings came with my injectors. If you are buying injectors I would call and find out. Otherwise I go to Cummins. Also when Cummins does a search they need an Engine Serial Number.

Just an idea and maybe completely wrong here. I was working on bleeding the brakes on a '39 chevy and had brake fluid coming out of the master cylinder from the "pedal stop assembly" which pushes on the piston. Rebuilt the master, still leaked, bought a new one and more of the same. It turns out that when we bled the brakes we were pushing the pedal too far past a port to the reservoir which allowed brake fluid past a secondary seal and it would leak out the pedal stop assembly boot. The solution we found is when bleeding the brakes we could only push the pedal about 3/4's of the way. This car does not have booster, it's all up to the driver and big wheel cylinders.So what I was thinking was this maybe your problem and brake fluid is getting in the booster and causing problems.

I did a search and came across some on eBay and the pricing I think isn't too bad on there. Deere is ridiculous on pricing, but you get what you pay for. At work the boss always buys JD parts and if there is ever a problem they don't fuss unless the warrany is done. Just had to replace two batterys on a 4440, cost $320 for them! The warranty on the old ones had expired 5 months ago.

Olred92 the key switch was changed out before he bought the tractor. The push button start is not used anymore. The switch someone installed is now used for starting also. Deere don't stock them anymore? Dorkweed not really a football fan everyone else around here is. It always interesting, the local oldies station won't play anything by Chicago, the week before the packers play the bears. I like this video though, the fans mean business.

Dorkweed I live near Sheboygan. Chedder curtain thats a good one. I see enough FISHTAB's coming up this way heading to northern WI. No disrespect that's the way it is especially with the packers-bears rivalary.Olred92 that is one of the tractors at work. It is a '64 4020 diesel synchro. If I remember right I think that is a Year Round cab. I would have to look at the tag in cab. It is not factory. That cab actually was suppose to go on a 3020 but was made to work on the 4020. It took some cutting and fab work to fit.

Can be found outside boating, camping, atving, cutting wood. I like to work on cars and trucks in especially in the winter. One of favorite things to do is drive tractor. It makes the day go fast, it doesn't feel like work.

The TSB I think they are referring to is 14-01-98. It talks about replacing the injector tubes with a new one that can be re-torgued multiple times without compromising the seal. If your engine has a serial number below 56462592. You will need the new tubes. Seeing you have a 2002 you shouldn't need the revised tubes. Make sure to inspect the tubes when you remove them for burrs or deformation around the inlets and outlets. With my BD's came new o-rings for the tubes not sure if they come with the RV's. If not, they are cheap enough that it would be dumb not to put new ones in. Also a good injector puller makes life easier.

That is one I will have to remember. I have had to retorgue the nuts a couple times when I noticed a bad shake. Next time I will Loctite them.

To each his own. I went with a turnout because I park outside and don't want to have to throw bucket on when it rains or snows. Rains caps get annoying too. Personally I never thought of stacks on my 2000. I tow often and have a chest type tool box. Plus I like to drive with all the windows open and don't want to smell exhaust coming in the slider. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and as long as you happy with your set up, that's all that matters. People have given me alot of crap about my truck. If they annoy me enough, I just tell them don't call when you are stuck, broken or need ANYTHING. Can't do that with family although it would be nice once in a while.

I put a single stack on my '87 because the exhaust was shot. It really lowered the in cab noise, but when the passenger window is down it barks a bit. I put it in the corner of the box with the plumbing underneath. I use my box and never liked the idea of a crossover pipe in the box for duals. Been 3 years of road salt and still looks good under the truck. I like the single more than I thought I would. Duals look nice and that's about it IMO.

The second number refers to low boost fooling. I took the description out of the edge manual. I have never had an over boost code with mine. Are your connections done correctly? Edit: I was thinking about it and are you reading of the CTS display or pillar guages? Did you make the necessary map sensor connections for the Edge. Low Boost Fueling Adjustment Low boost fueling allows the user to “tune” the power levels relative to turbo boost pressure. If boost pressure is low, adding extra fuel causes excessive black smoke out the tail pipe. As the turbo spools up and builds more boost pressure, more air is forced into the combustion chamber and the fuel/air charge burns cleaner, resulting in less smoke. If low boost fueling where set to 1, the Juice module would not add the full, potential amount of fuel until boost pressure reached 20 psi. This results in less smoke, and reduces the responsiveness of the throttle. If low boost fueling where set to 5, the Juice module disregards boost pressure and adds the calculated amount of fuel at 0psi. This would smoke more and the throttle would be more responsive. The chart below shows how boost is used in each low boost level. Low boost 1: 0psi to 20psi Low boost 2: 0psi to 15psi Low boost 3: 0psi to 10psi Low boost 4: 0psi to 5psi Low boost 5: disregards boost psi