KATOOM

Anyone remember the old Price Club Allied tools? Those were the crappiest things I've ever used. I broke so many wrenches and sockets that I'm not sure they're worthy of being called "tools".

Well here's hoping.....

Last year I installed a pair of Interstate group 65's from Costco. Great price and great warranty.

Group 27 is probably OEM for your truck. Group 34 is a little smaller around than 27 but I believe taller. Group 65 is the best CCA and RC but wont fit under most 2nd gen tray hold down brackets. I had to modify mine only because I wanted the RC of the group 65.

All group sizes should be relatively the same size universally, so they should fit fine.

I've always felt that the ambient weather and humidity level were a determining factor as to how well something will last not used. A vehicle used will tend to last longer than a vehicle sitting unused because corrosion takes over, and rubbers dry out.

Definitely Mechman builds a quality unit..... But just in case you didnt already know, with that unit you'll have to run a smaller belt length because they most likely use a smaller pulley to spin up the shaft RPM's, and you'll have to change the lead wire from the alternator because its not going to be large enough for that amount of amperage.

Like I've said.....Nations website and specifics info leaves something to be desired. But they build a nice alternator.

You can find "dual" temperature gauges. Some even say "transmission/differential" too. A toggle switch would work but can you imagine what you'd be doing repeatedly flipping switches while pulling hills.....

I'm probably one of the few people who's actually installed a differential temp gauge on both a stock cover and an aftermarket cover..... Yes, differentials are pretty strong BUT they're not bullet proof like society tends to assume. It can get hot in there. I added a transmission and differential temp gauge because quite a few years ago we "upgraded" to a heavy size 5th wheel and I wanted to make sure no drivetrain component was running overly hot during the warm potential triple digit summer heat we tow in while meandering through the northern CA mountainous terrain. What I did initially was change the fluid as I've done before but this time I filled with Royal Purple 75-140 and installed a thermocouple in the fill hole using a 3/4" to 1/8" reducer. Kinda of a pain but it worked... The temperature were pretty surprising as the stock cover with RP stayed in check until I hit the long mountain pulls. Empty the temps would climb to around 175* simply because of the hypoid action and the thicker fluid. Pulling the temps remained in the 185* range and would climb to about 195*-200* on pulls. If the ambient was hot enough it may reach 215* or so, but at that point I'm staring at gauges and very easy on the throttle. You'd be surprised how "speed" affect differential temperatures. Then about a year later I installed a Mag-Hytec and refilled with the same RP 75-140. Strangely the overall empty temps would eventually reach 175* on the freeway. Just taking a little longer because of the added stock and dissipation offset. Again, hypoid action and thicker fluid will cause the fluid to run at "X" temperature no matter. Thinner fluid will run a little cooler and temperature will be affected by gear ratios as well. Towing temperatures with the MH seemed to fall in the same range as before BUT take a lot longer to get to that point AND a lot faster to cool off. When doing long mountain pulls the temps would tend to run a tad cooler but when the load was reduced the fluid temp would come down in a hurry whereas with the stock cover the temp would remain for a long time. I'm guessing this was because there was almost half the fluid stock and no dissipation besides what air blows around the member. So without going on and on about the technical data I collected, I will just say that I'm more than pleased with the MH cover. It was easy to install (although I had to re-tap the thermocouple port due to size differences) and it allowed for the thermocouple to poke out the top. And it has a dip stick for easy checking, two magnets, and a drain hole so the cover can stay put during fluid changes. All in all I say they're worth the money if you do any significant pulling. As mentioned in the beginning, differentials are not bullet proof and are subject to how well the fluid does its job. Just as with any lubricating fluid, temperatures over 180* will start to oxidize over time and any temperature over 225* is getting dangerously hot. I've seen were people cook the paint off their differentials so I can only imagine what the fluid looks like in there.

Over the years of wrenching I've collected enough stuff to fill a 5.5' tall tool box sitting in my garage. Its full of a variety of stuff too but mostly Craftsman, although there's a few Snap On's in there too. Not much mainly because even though Snap On is very nice, its also VERY expensive. I have most everything I need unless I run across "proprietary special" tools some vehicles require. But I feel there's nothing wrong with most tool brands today, and I'm sure plenty of us have our fair share of Harbor Freight odds and ends too simply because we couldn't pass up the price.

Dextron III in my transfer case and Redline PS fluid in the PS pump. I'm a fan of running synthetic PS fluid because if the heat generated in the hydro-assist system. Its gets pretty hot during the summer and the fluid capacity is pretty small for all the work that system does. Just my opinion.....

Hope it works out for you.

Thanks Wild and Free. I believe those few recent pictures are possibly the ones the workers got fired over. And if you notice, there isnt much showing whats going on now. Everything is only from a few days ago.

GREAT thread. I didnt think I ever had intentions to install a sump simply because of how all the tank crud will easily funnel directly into the fuel supply.....but now I know I wont. I even looked up Transfer Flow just to see how they address this and directly from their website: Caution Gravity feed fuel systems may be easier to build and cheaper to buy, but does that mean it’s the smart choice? Due to safety, environmental, and legal concerns, Transfer Flow engineers will not endorse, promote, design, install, or sell gravity feed fuel systems. On gravity feed systems, if the valves, connectors, or fuel lines have any malfunctions there is nothing to stop fuel from overfilling the OEM tank and leaking all over the road. Transfer Flow Auxiliary Tanks Are NOT Gravity Feed Systems. Our tanks are NEVER to be used in conjunction with gravity feed fuel systems. Transfer Flow fuel tanks are NEVER to be used in conjunction with fuel tanks made by other tank manufacturers. Our tanks are only compatible with your stock OEM tank or Transfer Flow replacement tank.

Oh believe me MM.....its crazy down here. They just let everyone come back after forcing 200k peeps out of their homes with hours notice.....only to re-implement the evacuation but making it "voluntary". For whatever reason they wont show any pictures of what going on, they even fired some Oroville Dam workers for posting pictures on line, the have a no fly zone anywhere near the dam so no drones can look, and they're expecting another 10 inches of rain from the up and coming storm. I'm not really sure why they're handling this the way they are but people are worried because the integrity of the dam and overflow are at risk with . And.....its being said that if this dam happens to fail catastrophically for any unknown reason, the amount of water to be instantly released would cover 300 sq miles of land. Thats a lot of people who would be affected by this.....

I replaced my factory pads at 115k miles on the odometer with almost 1/4" of material left on them. Bought OEM replacement quality from NAPA because I too am not one to buy the best brake parts since it usually means they're more aggressive to achieve more friction. More friction means more wear on the rotors. Yes, exhaust brakes do help too. But as like Moparman, my vehicles dont go through brakes like I read where some do. Usually I can get around 100k miles (or close to that) between brake pads.

Here's a thread I posted not to long ago..... https://mopar1973man.com/topic/11909-are-you-looking-for-replacement-engine-fan/#comment-143713

Just hurry up..... I want to order these if the beam pattern is acceptable.

Any update on these? I'm very curious to see if you get them to light up correctly and how the beam looks.

I guess it more appropriate to say, "Maximum temp the block heater should heat soak the engine is 100* F."

Strangely that can be hit and miss. I've seen them 5/16" ID and I've also seen them (on my truck) where one of those two lines was only 1/8" ID. I researched this some years ago and people had varying results with what they had too.

The OEM supply fuel line size is (I think I remember) 5/16" ID. Thats not optimal but its sufficient as long as HP isnt crazy. The real problem is the banjo bolts as they restrict overall flow due to their design. So point I'm making is, if the Big Line kit eliminates all banjo bolts, even the one at the inlet of the fuel pump, then the OEM fuel line size from the tank to the fuel pump wont be as much as a hindrance as you'd think. Actually you'd be surprised at how much less the fuel pressure will drop throughout the throttle too.

This whole situation is sad..... Thankfully the evacuation requirement was just lifted so hopefully all those (200,000 people) can go home to safe conditions. I feel for them too because they were led to believe this was no big deal last week, but were then only given hours to flee from all their lively possessions with no heads up. All the looters should be shot on site..... That said, how quickly everyone forgets about things we vote in. Meaning, it was only back in 2014 where CA voted unanimously to Gov Browns request for $7.5 Billion (yes, with a "B") to fix, rebuild, and maintain such infrastructures. But guess who Brown is going to for financial help with the Oroville Dam. Yeah, the Fed's. So Jerry, where did the almost $8 billion dollars go?????

Maximum temp the block heater will heat soak the engine is 100* F.