KATOOM

I thought about the fueling map too but wasn't sure if the sudden increase seemed viable.

For those who may have an answer..... I recently noticed while on a long hot highway camping adventure over the weekend that my boost pressure would do something I cant fully explain. For those of you who know my style, I generally dont pull with very hot EGT's. For me 1200* is HOT and I prefer to stay under that temperature just because it keeps the engine temperatures happier.....and its just really hot in my opinion. Nonetheless, grossing about 22k pounds, I was pulling hard up some long grades and because of the immense summer triple digit heat it was hard to keep the EGT's from climbing up to the 1200* range under heavy throttle. Not really wanting to slow my speed down too much I tried a couple times to hold firm on the throttle and let the EGT's get to 1250*. But what I noticed both times I did this was as soon as the EGT's reached that 1250* mark the boost strangely jumped up 2-3 psi. Not just on the gauge either as I could also hear an audible difference in the turbo. Does anyone have a logical explanation why this happened?

I agree that this is definitely not a direct comparison because I do know that the Fast Coolers do play a part and I know for fact that the blanketed exhaust does something as well. But the information is still a guideline when understanding that my gross was much heavier (almost double the trailer weight) and the ambient temperatures were about the same. It'd sure be nice if someone else running 50 weight had a temperature gauge too so we could collect more data.

I just got back from a weekend camping trip. We've been going through a nice little heat spell the past week so we tried to get away from the warmth. Packed up, we left on Friday at 6 pm hoping would be a tad cooler outside.....but it was still 111*. Everything was HOT!!!!! AC on full blast, he headed up the roasting highway. I do NOT enjoy towing in that kinda of heat, especially since when pulling my 5th wheel I'm grossing around 22k pounds. I live at around 300 feet elevation and we drove 100 miles up the mountain to about 3500 feet. Got there about 8:30 and thankfully it cooled off to a nice 100*. Lots of gradual pulls throughout the drive with a few steep grades here and there just to keep the truck from ever cooling off. The engine fan NEVER shut off, roaring constantly the entire time at about 2200-2300 RPM. ECT's were comfortable but consistently swung between 205*-215* depending on the grade. The transmission temperatures remained stable at 175* and climbed to about 185* on a couple steeper 3rd gear pulls. The differential temperatures remained at about 210* for the duration.

Those sound like realistic numbers..... How hot was the outside temperatures during your climb?

Always thought it was bizarre that Oregon and Washington dont allow that.....

I'm sure you're right on the money than not. My take on it is, its already too easy to acquire a regular drivers license whereby anyone is piloting around a 3 - 4 ton missile, why would we ever want to lower the skill level for CDL drivers just so there's more less qualified drivers behind the wheel of a 40 ton missile..... Seems counter productive to me.

The nostalgia..... I have a certain love for the older trucks, especially the Pete's. Those older trucks worked hard for a living back when we ran short haul. Today my family hauls interstate and the newer trucks they receive every couple years are no different than most current day high tech cars. Seemingly the trucking industry is going to revisit the auto-manuals too, so its anticipated that the next truck will be one again. They're crazy to drive too. Simply hop in, put it in "D" and hammer down. Everything is handled by the computer. Never really understood why the push for these transmissions too as most veteran drivers seemingly prefer not to have them.

Thanks TFaoro. Cooling system is in good working order. This is just hauling a pretty sizable 5th wheel up some looooong grades. We're talking miles upon miles of non-stop pulling too. Thats when I see the engine temps succumb to the overwhelming heat. Shorter grades are no problem just hammering down and running until the top. Also, the OEM clutch fan fully engages at 205*.

Plus EGT's have a direct relation to engine temperatures. When pulling a long grade, if the EGT's are over 1000* and I'm towing in the summer heat then the engine temps will start to climb, holding steady around 210*-215*. Keeping the EGT's in that range will allow the cooling system to maintain those comfortable temperatures, but if I try to push it up around 1100*-1200* then the engine will get hotter than I want.

If the thermocouple is placed in the exhaust manifold and reading the back three cylinders (not post turbo).....and you trust your pyrometer, then the suggested "maintained" EGT is 1250*. But quick bursts above that are considered acceptable. How high and how quick?.....I wont comment since thats a do at your own risk thing.

Ever since American businesses started flooding overseas China has been getting rich off the American dollar and buying up a heck of a lot more than just Volvo. They've been buying up all kinds of stuff..... Kinda scary. They even own all or part of (cant remember) the Panama Canal.

Thats an interesting point of view. I never thought about that. Maybe they just make their own stuff better.....

Everythings hecho en China. I'm sure these were no exception.

Doesnt look like a Spicer.

I had a DC joint bust apart while on the highway in an older truck. It knocked out the exhaust, bent the frame, and made a nice noggin on the cab floor. All in about 2 seconds.

Driveline shops need to make a living too..... Just take it to them and get it done right the first time.

Me78569, I see the problem..... There's supposed to be needle bearings in there. I cant seem to spot any in that picture.

Here ya go. SyntorqLT Specifications.pdf

There aren't but a couple of frame manufactures for RV trailers. And most RV trailers will specifically void the warranty if a GN adapter is used. The stress on the pin box is just too great when adding another foot or so of leverage with the adapter. Over time the strain can cause frame cracks which go unnoticed as they're usually hidden behind the trailers outer material. I know there's plenty of people out there stating that they've never had a problem with a GN adapter but I would just feel its best not to. B&W's conversion hitch is supposed to be awesome.

Thank you..... I've been looking for a jack just like this. Getting tired of replacing bent jacks from dragging the ground on approaches.

Always maximum air pressure.....

I'll just show up late after everyone's to lit to remember any of this.....

We may not all follow the same do's and dont's but I think for the most part the members of this forum are very commonsensical people..... I enjoy the round-tabling discussions too. On another note, I was cruising down the freeway the other day doing around 73 mph in the right lane. It was late afternoon and about 95* outside. Traffic was light but there was still plenty of vehicles out on the road. I was then passed up by a Ford F150 towing a TT. I'm going to guess the TT was about 24' and they were doing at least 80 mph. Not a terribly big trailer because I noticed the lighter weight tires and rims but big enough that this truck was sagging a little from the weight and the trailer would wag often, especially when he passed a semi. The truck was probably around 10 years old but I couldn't tell as he was going too fast, although I did notice his larger aftermarket rims (probably 18's or 20's) with wide low profile tires. He was on the throttle hard too as his exhaust was blaring when he passed by. All I could think was I hope nothing happens to them because they had Washington plates and had a long way to go with some long freeway grades in front of them.