KATOOM

Probably about 150 rpm while driving down the freeway..... Sure I guess thats technically "spinning", although slow enough that you can visually count the revolutions.

Nice. How long before you install it?

You could go this route..... http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/p316_electric_diesel_exhaust_cutout_kit.html https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/exhaust-cutouts

Just keeping it real..... How can someone learn from anything if no ones going to make sure the information being given is accurate. I wouldn't know half the garbage I know today if it wasn't for someone thankfully setting me straight one way or another. That doesnt mean I'm right either..... I always tell my kids to question what you're being told because following blindly is no different than being controlled.

I laughed.....

Without fully understanding what your preferred level of "quiet" is.....I understand Donaldson is a great muffler.

True. Even thought they call it a "leveling kit" my truck is not level. The back still sits considerably higher. So its a sorta level kit.

I have a 2" leveling kit too. I thing they look nice because it removes the "stink bug" stance some trucks have. But it does pose as a problem if you're towing heavy because the normal rear suspension drop under a load will appear as if its sagging under the weight even though you know its not. Other than that, as mentioned, you should install an adjustable track bar to recenter the axle, readjust the toe since the tires will be in too far, and you'll need to readjust the caster because as the front axle goes down the caster becomes more negative. As for steel verses nylon, I think I'd prefer the metal version just to lessen the chance of the nylon loosening up over time.

I think pictures do best for something like this. In short, a CV joint is a constant velocity and a double cardan joint is a "near" constant velocity. Its very common to hear them being called one in the same. CV joints are found on front wheel drive vehicles and 4wd vehicles with independent front suspension. Double cardan joints are found on driveshafts. Some older luxury cars had dual double cardan driveshafts (one on each end of the driveshaft) so as to lessen any and all u-joint harmonics. Here's some pictures of a CV joint and a double cardan joint, whereby you can clearly see they're nothing alike. If you want to learn more about their mechanical differences then Google may be your best friend because I'd probably end up making a mockery of the explanation. Oh now the hassling is on like donkey kong.....

I'm NOT attacking your comment, but let me just point a couple things out. 1) there's no CV joint on these trucks. The double u-joint on the front driveshaft is called a double cardan joint. Totally different than a CV (constant velocity) joint found on front wheel drive cars and independent front suspension 4wd vehicles. 2) If the 4wd system is "part-time" (only on the CAD trucks) then the driveshaft will not spin at road speeds in 2wd and will not cause any vibration. Its impossible for it to do so as its hardly moving while in 2wd. Your vibration had to be coming from some other source or the front driveshaft was somehow engaged while in 2wd. Again, I dont want to seem like I'm hassling you.....just merely making some points clear.

I have an Olympian Wave 6 catalytic heater mounted in my trailer. Works good until the ambient weather outside gets down below freezing. But thats when the furnace comes on a rare occasion to keep things cozy. Without the Wave the furnace would come on and stay on for a long time sucking up propane and battery.

When you're making sure the driveshaft is not unintentionally engaged have the engine running, because the vacuum pump is supplying vacuum only when the engine is on. When the engines off the vacuum stops and if the problem is related to the vacuum switch on the TC then you may be misled.

I kinda remember a certain member stating not to long ago that running in any gear other than 1:1 would generate heat.....

Unfortunately leaking tail shaft seals are common. I've been through a few and I still get a slight weep.

Unfortunately though, this is something only time will tell over at least 20k miles, as the carbon composite can separate from the ring if there's fluid compatibility issues. But I agree that if the fluid color seemingly remains in check then thats a good sign.

It seems like the temperatures are staying relatively safe. Thats good..... Although I'm not sure why the low speed driving temps are so hot though as my tranny temps dont reflect that. 190* around town is hotter than I'd ever anticipate for a manual to ever run. Nonetheless, hopefully all we have to do is keep tabs on whether or not the syncros remain OK with the new fluid.

Interesting..... How about a VGT supplying a non VGT.

Just curious as to why you'd want that? As long as the exhaust brake was connected to the later housing (whether or not thats even possible), the same would be achieved. That there had me wondering if anyone has ever configured a VGT in compound setup.....and I guess they have. But in reality if someone with compounds really wanted an EB then an inline model could still be used. FYI..... If you jack up the rear axle and place it on stands. Remove the tires/rims and any stud fasteners. Replace a couple lug nuts only partially threaded on the stud. Start the engine, run it in gear and then slam on the brakes. The drums should (in theory, but it does work) pop off. The couple lug nuts are to keep it from flying off into your garage.....

I dont spend a ton of time in the 3rd gen sections so I couldn't say whether or not those rear discs are as problematic as the 2nd gen. But I do understand that the calipers and rotors are not the same either. I even think they increased the rotor size a little too but am not positive. And in saying that, ANY changes made from year to year could have solved whatever the prior issues were. Thats not to say ALL 2nd gen rear discs were junk either but merely pointing out they're nothing great. In regards to aerospace brakes, here's a couple videos to show the POWER behind those braking systems. Really cool..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g6UswiRCF0&feature=youtu.be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g6UswiRCF0&feature=youtu.be

That was not me implying one was better than the other but merely stating a fact for someone who may or may have not known that you cant simply install your local parts store master/slave and expect to bleed it on the truck.....

Drum brakes can offer more braking power because of the shoe contact surface area, whereas discs offer less weight, better heat dissipation, and better feel. There's a reason as disc brakes are improved, the calipers/pads sizes are increased. The problem is the larger the calipers/pads get, the more heat they generate in that area and thus the overall rotor size must be increased to offset. For example, Air plane disc brakes can have multiple discs like motorcycle clutch system. Pretty interesting design too. In regards to drums brakes..... If you've ever stomped on the brakes in a class 8 OTR truck, it can be quite impressive. All that said, the 2nd gen rear axle disc brakes were seemingly not a great design and have notorious issues. Probably more from road salts corrosion than not, but nonetheless the 2nd gen manual transmission 2500 truck brakes are the same as the 3500 truck brakes and are pretty strong. Well.....at least mine are.

If you buy the separated master and slave cylinders from a parts store then you'll have to assemble them and bench bleed the system before installing because the hydraulic line from master to the slave runs up and over the hydro assist system which prevents air from purging. Just so you know.....

I certainly dont want this to become a of battle of frustrations..... I'm merely looking for examples and scenarios I can compare to for legitimate reasons to consider this alternate 50w stuff. Just keep us posted on your findings Moparman and maybe you've simply found the fluid we've all been hoping for.

Thats not what I meant..... It doesn't matter if you're on the freeway or highway because I never tow faster than 60 mph either, and the hottest temperatures I've ran have been on a 2 lane highway too.