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KATOOM

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Everything posted by KATOOM

  1. My family wont touch the door handle until I shut it off. If someone who doesn't know the truck "rule" climbs out before the engines off, I'll let it idle until they shut the door. Sometimes gets strange looks but who cares. They're not the ones who'll have to deal with sagging doors.
  2. dripley, what kinda overcooling problems are you having? If your engine temp takes forever to climb or wont reach and maintain 190* then you may have a thermostat problem.
  3. I know its a little after the fact but dont start up or shut down the Cummins ISB engine with the doors open and you'll never have hinge problems. The ISB is like a paint shaker.
  4. When the engine is off..... If you grab a fan blade, you should be able to spin it but offer considerable resistance. Trying to spin it should result in free spinning no more than an inch or so on its own. It should also have zero play in all directions. If it feels like this then its probably just fine. The fan clutch doesn't FULLY engage until the clutch registers 205*. Thats means its plenty hot out or the engine is working hard. Its always partially engaged which is why the A/C works during idle but when the fan fully engages while driving, you'll hear it.
  5. It definitely agree that most stuff is hecho en China and that most of their products are less than durable. The actual number is probably more than 90% too, which is the reason I DO pay attention and will always choose the American made product over the foreign version. Its staggering how many products sold in the US are not made here. That said, I'd hope that the Cummins fan clutch is American made. And what do you mean, Whitebird, ID holds the biggest account for Keystone beer? Are you saying that make it.....or drink a lot of it?
  6. I couldn't begin to explain whats up with why the Hayden is cheaper.....unless Hayden also contracts with some cheapo manufacture to compete with themselves. Kinda like Coors beer and Keystone beer. Same company but marketed to compete with each other to capture more of the market. But no matter.....I wouldn't purchase either clutch fan because I would only look for a Cummins OEM clutch fan. Lifetime warranty sometimes just means "crappy but we'll keep giving you another crappy one every time it breaks".
  7. I would suggest staying away from the cheap auto parts fan clutches. As much reading as I have on these forums, the cheapo's have a pretty good failure rate. I know they're more money but I'd suggest replacing it with an OEM fan clutch. Far more reliable. Sure upfront cost is always an issue but if you have to replace it twice then your time is worth something too and who wants to be on the road during the summer and have their fan clutch quit.
  8. Technically.....an "intercooler" is between two compressors thus the wording "inter" whereas an "aftercooler" is "after" the compressor. I dont have the squiggly line on my keyboard to say potato either.
  9. Good information. I agree, that only because the air is already warm and the secondary compression will warm it further. Also, not to split your hairs but we have an "aftercooler".
  10. Using an SO VP on an HO engine is true. Reasons are, the SO VP has larger fueling pistons but a milder fueling cam resulting in the capability of more fuel but at less pressure. When the HO motor was introduced the VP was equipped with smaller fueling pistons but a more aggressive fueling cam which actually ran at higher pressures along with injectors that have higher pop off pressures. The HO has the same fueling as the SO but without the same level of increased capability of fueling as the SO. This is why SO motors respond much better to electronic fueling devices than the HO motors and why the HO motors respond much better to larger injectors than SO motors. The Hotrod VP simply utilizes the SO fueling pistons along with the HO timing cam. Now there are other performance VP's than that but I'm not completely sure what they entail. Guys can replace their HO VP with a SO VP to achieve more fueling if so desired but I dont think there's much of a difference under stock situations. And I understand from many replies on this very topic that there is zero problems when performing this swap.
  11. Its nice to hear of good father/daughter relationships. They'll thank you for that later in life.
  12. I dont have twins but common sense would tell me that the compound compressor would be hotter.
  13. Compressor side, not real hot. Exhaust side, really hot.
  14. As mentioned, replacing u-joints aren't that difficult. They can be a more of a hassle than anything and if you dont have the right tools it can be easy to do things like pinch the ears if using a vice and cause alignment issues in the caps. Re-installing out of time is something beginners arent aware of either and that will cause a decent vibration. If you got everything together correctly then you shouldn't ever experience any future problems. If you're feeling any harmonic vibrations then there's a problem and will eventually lead to failure if not fixed. One of the most violent mechanical failures on a vehicle is when then driveshaft fly's apart too. Also, you have a 2000 and that year came with the CAD front axle which means your 4wd system is part time and the front driveshaft spins only when in 4wd. But LiveOak has a 2002 and his wifes is a 2001.5. The likely hood that both of his trucks are non-CAD front axles is very likely and if so then the 4wd is full time and the front driveshaft spins all the time. That makes a HUGE difference since your front driveshaft isn't spinning when you're cruising along at 70 mph and his is which is a reason not to mess with the complicated Double Cardan unit.
  15. This is why its a good idea to plumb in a test port when setting up a fuel pressure gauge. I didn't bother to do that the first time I set up my electronic fuel pressure gauge so when my sender failed I had to guess whether or not the problem was the sender, gauge, or pump. Turned out it was the sender but when I changed over to a mechanical setup I plumbed a "T" fitting in just before the isolator and added an OEM schrader valve to the third port so that if I ever have a reason to question my fuel pressure I can simply hook up a tester to that schrader valve.
  16. Its good to hear someone else say this because I've tried to explain for years why how going "big" (over 4") isn't always the right move.....for HP reasons.
  17. I can completely appreciate you wanting to tackle this on your own. Its not a "difficult" job although its time consuming and is best done with the right tools, but aren't required. In saying that, I've replaced many u-joints and I've come to the conclusion over the years that its simply better removing the driveshaft and taking it to a driveline shop and having them replace the u-joints. Its sooooo much easier and doesn't cost that much more than the cost of the u-joints either. I'm not trying to steer you from trying it but there is risks of doing it wrong. The ears of the driveshaft can be bent, the u-joints can be misaligned, they can be installed "out of time", the can become out of balance, etc..... And because you said that you're changing "everything", you're going to be replacing the Double Cardan joint on the front driveshaft. That complicated part of the front driveshaft involves two u-joints in one small unit loaded with a ball with two springs, and you wont want to mess that up. I'm only trying to save you not only time but possibly money in the long haul.....and this is your wifes truck too.
  18. No I've never heard of any backwoods receipt. And the way thread locker works is from the lack of air created within the threads when you cinch the nut/bolt. So giving it some air time to dry before assembly does nothing.
  19. I know there is larger bottles available. Not sure if you'll find them from anyone around you local or you may have to order off the internet. Try a simple Google search and I'm sure you'll find someone who carries the larger bottles. And yes, only use the blue stuff. The red stuff MUST have heat applied to release it and is basically considered permanent.
  20. There's guys on these forums who regularly pull well above the trucks GVWR with zero problems from the engine. Keeping the EGT's in check is far more important since those figures are what will dictate engine temp and oil temp. The ISB is classified as a "medium duty" engine as where the Duramax and the Powerstroke are "light duty" engines. So, yes, it can handle whatever you can legally tow and then some.
  21. My OEM 3" straight piped "seems" to be working just fine too but in saying that I have nothing to compare with and really the factory 3" isnt really a "true" 3" system either since its not mandrel bent which means in reality its probably more like 2.5". And the reason I chose to remove the muffler and resonator was to keep the EGT's as low as I possibly could given the trailer weight I occasionally tow. The EGT's stay reasonable but the noise has become unbearable. Its just to freaking loud and becomes obviously annoying to others as I try to quietly sneak in/out of RV parks, or while wait for my kids to get out of school on hot days, etc..... So my plans are to get a 4" system with a muffler so that I can maintain the EGT reduction but reduce the noise as well. And maybe I'll experience a little performance gain too but reducing the noise will be worth the cost.
  22. If you can find it, I'd really like to see what they said too.
  23. Depending on what you buy, some brands of gear oil already have friction modifier in the lube for limited slip units so there's no need to add any more. I cant speak for most brands but I do know that Amsoil and Royal Purple have the modifier already.