KATOOM

Take your time. I just appreciate the help.

You're very right about extended pinboxes. They aren't intended to "fix" the clearance problem but help offer a little more angle before a slider is needed. And what I'm trying to find out is basically if I'm of the norm with those measurements I listed. If there was a magic trailer and kingpin measurement then that would make me feel better. Maybe I just need to hookup whatever I find and give it a test run to be sure but with trailers all over the place, its becoming expensive just looking. Yes, you're so right again in saying that there's a metric butt TON of used trailers out there but I'm after a toy hauler and in saying that, a toy hauler that offers what my family needs. Some are no more than cargo boxes with a table and bed up front. Not very family friendly. So that metric ton quickly turned into a few pounds, and of those I've found, I haven't seen one that I would consider as a safe trailer for a short bed. Thanks for the opinion though. --- Update to the previous post... Nice setup.

Wow, sorry to hear about the mud. These trucks are anything but light. Waiting patiently for what you find out.

Now you're just trying to get in trouble..... I am curious if your friend mounted the hitch back, or his trailers had extended pin boxes, or was simply an alert driver and always kept an eye on his trailers position.

With that reply, I pardon you from the corner of shame. So please, return from your friend with some measurements and type of hitch. I agree with War Eagle in saying that auto sliders are the best option but two things in my defense: 1) I was led to believe that I would be fine towing just about any 5th wheel with a slider hitch when I was hitch shopping. And 2) auto sliders are expensive as they are cool. I'd buy one but I have a brand new Curt slider hitch in my truck and I'd really like to exhaust all my options before I attempt approaching my wife trying to explain why I need to spend money on a different hitch.....

Well arent you two a pair.....

dripley, you're not helping with your long bed.....

Help me with some measurement figures. I was told towing a 5th wheel with a short bed would be fine with a slider but I think I was lied to. Sure I can tow any 5th wheel.....as long as I only go straight. My current 5th wheel hitch has the kingpin 41" from the cab and the slider moves back about 12" or so for tight maneuvers. Trying to find a 5th wheel that will allow normal daily driving is proving to be far more difficult that I was led to believe.

As much as I agree, you all do realize that anyone who is disgruntled with the VP isn't going to read this thread. They would rather spend $4000-$5000 to P-pump their truck and give up all the drive-ability of the 24v. To each is own.

I agree with Moparman. If you're going to spend big money on brakes then save your money by going cheap on mechanical brakes and then invest in an exhaust brake. I use the word "invest" because you will be investing by saving on future brake jobs, making your towing trips more enjoyable and more importantly.....safer, and your truck will increase in psychological value. I have one and I wouldn't tow in a diesel without one. There is a reason all new diesel trucks come equipped with exhaust brakes.

Once again..... You're the man Mike.

So.....its official.....165 and 215. Unless someone else can say otherwise.

One thing I found out when trying to research this subject was that aftermarket radio's dont work with the steering wheel radio buttons. Is this truly the case?

Has anyone ever hooked up an aftermarket engine temperature gauge? I know the factory gauge says 190* on the middle mark but does anyone really know what temperature the other marks are supposed to be? You go from 190* in the middle, to the next line, and then nothing until 240*. Thats a big number jump to not know whats in between.

Then what did you find on the ball.....or was there anything on there?

Do you ever run bio diesel? As weird as it sounds, I've heard that bio can cause some kind of algae to grow in the fuel system. And since you consistently run 2-stroke, was there a build up of something related to using that stuff which could possibly get in and around or coat the pressure ball and compromise its sealing ability.

I would suggest running a heat shield if possible. The "direct" heat from the turbo against the filter would be intense and could pose a problem with the filter being so close. Not because of pulling hot air.

Good info thread. But I have to say that my fuel pressure does vary depending on the ambient temperature. The hotter it is outside, the lower my idle pressure is. Down as much as 1.5 psi from 19.5 to 18. My WOT pressure seems to stay at no less than 16 though. I completely dislike driving my truck in triple summer digits given how hot everything gets under the hood but when I do, this happens. Doesn't matter if I run 2-stroke lube or not.Question too..... Is the hole in your shims the same diameter as the hole in the JIC fitting? The shim looks smaller.

Thats pretty much right on. Amongst common belief, oil never looses its lubricating properties unless its burnt. Its all the crap that gets in the oil which is the reason we need to change it. Thats why tranny and differential lube lasts so long, because there's no combustion contamination.

A bad overflow valve (what you're calling a check valve) will result in hard starts all the time, not specific to hot or cold. Not fully understanding your last post, did you have the injectors replaced after this hard start problem or did it start acting up after installing the injectors? Still sounds like a leak to me. Point that nose downhill will help you determine if it is a leak.

Ya know dripley, thats a good point and I'm not sure what I was thinking because the supply line is on the side and not the bottom like I was envisioning in my mind. So for the fuel to leak out, there could be a leak or its flowing through the VP.....which isnt supposed to happen easily. Thanks for keeping me on my toes.

Most likely its running out the supply line and through the fuel pump.

I agree with Mopar1973Man. When the WTS light doesnt come on then it can be a sign that somethings wrong with the ECM. But I'd still suggest that you give your grid heater system a look over just to be sure and so you dont unnecessarily replace the ECM.

Do you still have the original VP? If so then next time you experience the hard hot start issue, stop cranking, open the hood and pour about a gallon of cool water directly on top of the VP's computer. Of course this means you have to carry around some water with you which could be an inconvenience.What I'm getting at is that since you've already installed the delay relay to stop the fuel pump during engine cranking that the original VP's computer is showing signs of being overly hot for many years and has racked up its fair share or heat cycles during that time. So then what happens is the computer gets hot and begins to intermittently short out and cause many other issues as well as the hard hot start. Pouring the cool water directly on it will cool it enough to allow starting but if this works then just know that it wont be long before it fails completely. And when it fails, it can fail at any time, even while driving.

The only thing stopping the fuel from running out of the fuel canister would be the fuel pump. The job of the fuel pump isnt to stop fuel from moving through it while its not running. The VP isn't supposed to allow fuel to easily pass through without the engine running so its not going out that way. I wouldn't be concerned unless you had a hard start issue.