GreenRiverCummins

Well it could be but We did replace both rubber line's twice first set was stock replacement's the other's i had custom made at local napa store and was made from a high strength hydrlolic hose to elimante the chance of colapase but i i will check that tomorrow to see. See this is why i'm stummped i've changed the whole system almost twice over and even upgraded most part's with 0 sucess... But i appreicate all the info and advice so far

We messed with the truck some today doing something like Wild and free suguested and It appers to be the Driverside front caliper that is sticking and only that one. I spoke to prevous owner and he said it started to stick a few year's back so he unhooked the rear metal hose going to the front brake's from the Master cylinder to avoid the problem as he tried to fix it aswell. He said he drove it with only rear brake's for many year's and did fine but, i wish to pull my camper with it on some accasion's to the local lake on vacation. So i need the front brake's The hose from the Booster goes down on to the back of the carb And not to the intake when placed on the intake vent the truck will die almost right away till pulled off. I am so confused with this truck And also not sure if it matter's but the truck came stock with a 440 4 barl BB and after the org owner blew it he placed a 360 2 barl SB in and left every thing else in place not sure if that affect's anything thought i'd metion it though thanks again for all ya'lls input and help well get her lined out before to long ;)

Front Disc Rear drum's and also i replaced the Cailper's on Driver's side 3 time's and Pass 2 time's aswell sorry forgot to metion that.

Hello all I have a 1974 Dodge D300 i bought this truck in the ongoing hope's of returning it back to it's former glory but I am having on going issue's with the Brake's. Ok when driving down the road after about 3- 5 mile's on a stright road using no brake's the brake's will slowly start to engane.Then completly lock to the rotor's to the point the motor will die from the strees to "push" itself. At this point i'm lost i have replaced the pad's, shoe's, Wheel cylinder's, Drum's, rotor's all line's front to rear top to bottom(Rubber/steel) the Master clyinder twice and Booster 3 time's, rebuilt the carb, changed the intake gasket and on and on i'm stumped my father is stummped and my friend's at the different dealer's are stummped. The brake fluid will leak out of the rubber seal on the top of the Master cylinder and the rear cup in the Master cylinder will suck dry. I've been told again and again that the booster is bad and sucking brake fluid into the carb as to why i had it rebuilt the mech said the hose from booster to carb had Brake fluid in it and the carb had brake fluid resido in it as well. So what are the odd's that the 3rd Booster/Master cylinder is bad and they are all from different part store's one napa 2 autozone 3 adavanced auto so any help or more info required just ask thank's for reading i'm still holding out hope but dad is really tired of it and ready to sell

Thank's for the info 98.5 i belive it will be the next item i pick up with my tax return ;) And mine is an 01 so i should be ok if it start's with 02 and up was hesitant if drilling was required not big on drilling into any part of my truck lol

Yeah that's me as well it would be great for Backing up trailer's and backing up my drive as it's up hill and all loose deep gravel i get tired of moving all the gravel back in place after my truck shovel's it down hill lol Does it require drilling holes in the axel i would assume it does?

Hello all I was looking threw my Geno Garage Mag. earlier and seen an item in it called a BD-2 low kit http://www.genosgarage.com/BD-2-LOW-KIT-94-01-4WD/productinfo/BD-1030703/ what i was wandering was does anyone on here have one installed or seen one in use and how well does it work. I owned a 76 blazer that had 2L-2H-4L-4H and the 2L came in hand alot to aid in getting heavy loads rolling easier with out using 4wd. Thank's for reading and look forward to response's.

Hello hex0rz I was unable to pull up the chart you listed with his info on tow rating's but i found this chart at http://dodgeram.info/2001/towing-charts.html I use this my self. As a base line for your truck at "stock" lvl (i know you have upgarded a few item's) but your base line for towing stock is 16,000 pd GCWR so you can safley tow 9'300 pd's stock that is. And the Dry weight of that camper is 13,030 that's 3,730 pd. I myself tow a TT and when i towed the rv home totaly empty compared to it fully loaded with water, supplie's, furniture...etc there was a large difference in weight about 3,000+/-pd. As a rounded number say 2,500 pd added to the 13,030 weight that's 15530 at this point your 6,230 pd over your limit. I myself belive your pushing a 2500 to her limit's not so much the tranny but your cooling system, brake's, and your suspension. I have a 2001 dodge 2500 4x4 QCSB Aw/3.55 gear's (V10) and when towing my TT i usually white knuckle drive to the camp site due to the body roll and bounce in the suspension of course i have a small lift and 36' tire's installed but even when stock was the same if not worse at time's. When compared to my 2001 dodge 3500 4x4 QCLB 5.9HO 6 spd/w3.55 gear's pulling the same load it's really a world of difference smooth sailing no worrie's at all. So in my opinon he's going for a sale over saftey. I would ask if you could hitch up the trailer and haul it down the road and get a feel of it empty and imagine it weighting 3,000 pd's more if he agree's he's good if not walk away In my opinon sorry for long reply wanted to be thorough

Thank's for the info diesel4life i plan on removing it and installing either a Smarty or Quadzilla in the near future Thanks again

I myself have owned/own truck's with stack's (owned) a 2006 Dodge 2500 mega cab Cummin's auto with 4in stright piped into dual 5in turn out's. When i had just the exhaust i got a hand full of compliment's till i threw on the stack kit then every day i got all kind's of compliment's mainly from trucker's at fueling staion's the local one nicknamed it mini-pete it was not loud and had little to no drone in the cab even with the window's down until you opened the sunroof and rear window then you could hear it alot more but no where near as loud as a 350 chevy with dual cherry bomb's banging your eardrum's against a wall lol and I have the same stack's now on my 2000 Dodge V10 and if you've ever heard the Magnum V10 any exhaust is loud really really loud but with these stack's you almost cant hear it running plus all the people who run up to me yellin' Dude that's a gas pump stop pumpin!!! lmbo lol

Hello All I have a 2001 Dodge 3500 24Val 6 Spd 4x4 i bought it from a local dealer a few month's ago and he could offer me no info on the truck other then it was a one owner truck used souly as a Fifth Wheel Camper hauler. Had all the Safe upgrade's a Fass 150 gph pump, BHAF, Aftermarket Intake Horn, Big line Kit, And Boost, pyro, and Fuel pressure(located right on the end of the hose as it enter's pump). I was cleaning the truck out the other day and found some wire's cleanly tucked under the Dash after removing the cover i found a Bank's Ottomind under the dash my question is what does this tunner do or is it a tunner if so to what extent compared to other tunner's. Also can you stack tunner's with it or is it even worth having on the truck? I did contact Bank's and got this reply "It is a tunner but it's not really and do not stack it at all we never tested it with any other tuner's good luck..." lol kinda not that helpful but hope you all can help more Thank's for reading await your anwser's

Sorry for late post and thank's for all the info and help. While buying a small import probaly won't happen (only buy american) but the extra cost of ownership/maintence/insurance..etc kinda nip's that up But, I am in the process of replaceing a power steering gearbox on one of my other Dodge's (I have 3 more a 2000 dodge 1500 360 ,2000 dodge 2500 V10, 1974 dodge D300 440 4spd) the 1500 asap to begin driveing till warm weather...weather permitting this weekend. She still fire's right up alway's dependable and never let me down in it's 230,xxx mile life just started to leak out power steering fluid from none usage as of late. On that note i do hope to purchase a Bank's exhaust Brake. I had a factory exhaust brake on my old 06 comman rail (before the truck was totaled a few month's ago) which i would engage after startup to warm the motor up alot faster safely will the banks brake work the same on this truck and still be safe on the motor. Again thank's for the help and info

Hello Folk's new to the site hope i placed this in the correct spot. So I have a 2001 Dodge Cummins QCLB Dually with a 24 val HO 6spd 4x4. The truck has 180k mile's on it. When i bought the truck a few month's ago to pull trailer's with full time (around 100-150 mile's a day) for my then job but, have since changed job's and only drive the truck about 2 mile's to work. So my question is will it hurt to drive my truck such short distance's every day 6 day's a week. Will it hurt it or cause damage to any thing? During the summer i don't worry as much but we are seein' 15-20F night's here i do plug in the truck for a couple of hour's every night and allow the truck to idle for about 5min's at least each morning for the oil to reach the top of the motor. and don't floor it when i leave in the morning's. I know that some of the block's are prone to cracking due to improper cold weather situation's aka "53 block's". I have checked my motor top to bottom left to right and there is no casting number's at all not below the PS pump or below the oil drain tube on the pass side. So what block do i have and thank's for reading and any info you can give thank's