GreenRiverCummins

Not to high jack the thread but i to plan on replacing my factory manifold but with an aftermarket one (Not sure which one). And i see Geno's Garage has a stud kit for the job as to reusing the factory bolt's. So my question is would this be a good idea to replace those old worn out streched bolt's with new bolt's or go and buy the stud's. Here's the link to the item in question http://www.genosgarage.com/EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-STUD-KIT-985-07-59L/productinfo/STUDKIT8905_A/

Well after 190k mile's nearly 170k with a fifthwheel behind it my stock clutch died last monday. After i vacumed the inside, cleaned with wipe's, washed the truck, hand dried it, waxed it, and went for a sunday drive down by the river got to the bridge before the turn gearded down to 3rd and hit the clutch to downshift to second pedal went to the floor.... had to ride 3rd gear for about a mile till i could safely pull over. After a few not PG-13 word's and praying i called for some help home. I was gonna haul it but, my angry was alittle high had to start the truck in gear and just speed shifted it home (Not a good idea but i was that mad) lol So i contacted thoroughbred diesel talked with them for about half an hour on what they suggested for my rig and i ordered a South Bend 3250 Dual disc clutch kit for $1250. They talked me out of the #3800 Valair dual disc i hope i went with the right brand. It will be here monday and the trans guy will have her back to me that after noon can't wait to try it back at 100% been at about 50% since i bought it last year from the orignal owner who only used it to tow his fifthwheel hence the 170K mile part. So did i choose right with the south bend over valair???any input would be great so i know in the future.

Update.... Found the real problem for the second time now there was a twig stuck in the line filter going to the main filter. removed the debry cblew out the line changed the filter's and she's runing like a top. Turns out this was a rental skytrac at one time and one person lost the diesel tank cap and used it to trim tree's and dll kinds of junk fell in the tank. so were gonna remove the tank soon and throughly clean it thanks for the help guy's ya'll are awesome!!!

So we got a lightly used Skytrack at work a month or so ago to replace our dying Massy Ferguson 285 tractor and Massy Fork lift both of which were on there 7 and 8 Headgasket replacement :banghead: This newish skytrack has the 4bt cummins in it which is awesome but it's been getting cooler at night here around 39-40 (Not cold for here but cool) and it sit's in front of our shop and in the morning it is getting harder to start we replaced the battery with a new 1175 CCA battery and rebuilt the starter and replaced the alt when we got it. Changed al the fluid's filter's add additives to every thing and are running the White bottle diesel Kleen or the winter blend one but it has no Block heater and no grid heater so what is there to do can you get a cord if it does have a block heater if so where is the block heater on these? Thanks for any help

When the codes come back does the truck run bad or different in any way that you can tell?

So final update after removing the bed to get to the intank pump found that it had been converted over to inline pump... tracked it up the frame and found it ran it stright to battery dead as a sack a tater's. Bought a new one hooked it all up bumped the key 3 time's let pump run turned the key over one turn fired up loped for about 2 min's (Which was awesome wish it did that at the flip of a switch lol) then she cleared out ran like a top dog again. Thanks for all the help it was as someone said when we removed the fiter the system loss it's vacuum and the dead lift pump reared it's head Big thanks to all that helped me through this!!!!

Just wanted to do an update on this we spent most of today at work on it. We used an old trick to prime the fuel system we took a rag wraped around a long air spout and plug the spout and rag in the tank and forced the air and fuel up front as one guy bleed the canister then, the VP then, the injector's. we tried it multiple time's and nothing then as i said the day before the intank pump was to quiet we removed the wire clip to the intank pump and ran a bypass stright to the pump AKA hotwired it and it was still none reactive... so were gonna remove the bed tomorrow and change the intank lift pump. Hope to have good new's tomorrow been a long few day's bleh

Ohh it turns my stomach about the starting fluid part but we bleed them long enough to run down to newish 1000 CCA batteries had to hook up the battery charger after that.The worst part is i told my boss if he didn't get on to this maintance and do it on a routine base of doing it it would cause stuff to contuine to break or get worst then i go and break the truck...Blah

I removed the whole line from canister to VP and blew it out. Someone had removed the bolt on the canister and put gasket maker around it and had started to fall into the line not sure if it got to the pump yet but not a good sign. The line did have fuel in it when i removed it. Thanks for the help so far Texas CTD

I can hear the lift pump work as well as the VP both just humming along are these vp's that crappy that 3 second's of air can destroy them good grief cummins lol of course he has no FP gauge on it yet so can't tell if it's getting pressure or not like on mine. gonna try again in the am

So took the time today to change the oil and oil filter and fuel filter in the work truck. oil went of easy as alway's but the fuel... "shiver" Well It's a 1998 24 valve did the same routine as i have for year's 1. lossend the nut on the filter housing2. drained the old fluid from the housing3. replaced all the gasket's (3) and replaced new filter4. Filled up canister with fresh fuel5. turned key on 3 time's to then bumped key twice to ensure complete primie 6. turned the motor over fired right up for about 5 sec's then stalled and died..So after trying to bleed the line's at the valve cover for 2 hour's started at #1, then 3, 5, 2, 4 only # 4 bubbled a little after the motor was shut off. That's it what am i doing wrong using a lite mist of starting fluid to get the truck to start then die's a few sec's later. What am i doing wrong driving me crazy 3 hour's of bleeding still nothing.

Just checked my local circular and seen this thank's now i can stock up on these like i did my filter's a month or so ago. Local napa auto had there 50% off deal on all filter's got 10 oil filter's for my truck cost $11.99 regular and got'em for $5.99 saved over $60 dollar's but i only drive 10-15k mile's a year what will i do with 7 extra oil filter's... I got it i'll buy a second Cummin's!! lol

That's why i was told by my tranny guy to use 2 quart's of Lucas Oil stabilzer instead of the factory to top off the tran's extend's the life of the fluid, Oil's better, and stick's to everything alot better. Just a thought tio which i am doing now will fill ya'll in if it goes bad.

Depending on the road's you'll be driving on if it's flat interstate your ok at only 5kpds to use 6th. But getting into a lot of hill's you'll be dropping to fifth alot which will eat more fuel but save your tranny. Just don't try to going 70 in 6th the whole time. Last long haul i made in mine (Truck in sig) was a 1,000 mile round trip with a 10k trailer on flat interstate 90% of the way Note(only did 55-60mph the whole way no hurry) and it did ok but by the half way mark my Clutch was warm and driving through bumper to bumper traffic it stuck in 3 and took an hour to cool down before i could drive it. Just keep in mind how the truck feel's and don't push it if it feels odd pull over check it out and if needed give her a few min's. Just to be safe. For the overfilling part it's not a big deal to do and it dosen't hurt in any way it's a splash setup, but i would recommend using a quart of ATF fluid and a quart of Lucas oil Stabilzer. What i done and has helped alot still need a 6th gear sync and a Master Clyinder but can tell it's alot quieter and smoother now.

Cool thanks all!! yeah it was at the full mark and i put in 2 quart's through the top but it looked soooo empty lol so i should be good on that one thank's all again

So in the efftot to elimanate issue's in my tranny before I put on my Master/Slave Clyinder. I took the time today to check the fluid level on the side which seemed almost full. then i took off the shifter and what level should the fluid be at cause it looked about 10 quart's low lol Cause i could see way down there is it suppose to be all the way up to the shifter base?? Cause I have no idea i put a quart in it and i couldn't even tell i had put any in it. So any info would be great

Thank's for the info and you think a Single disc clutch will handle my 17,500pd camper course only pull it 2 times a month or about 6 time's a year if all work's out. and also a 22,5xx pd load of hay (13 2k pd roll's of hay is heavy :p )?? And i'm gonna put the Master/slave on some time in a week or so against my dad's wishies he belive's if i throw new part's on a weak tran's i'll finish it off but to me if it is going out i'm gonna replace it anyway's but should i get the napa one's or the South bend one's for $315 what's the difference? - - - Updated - - -

Took my truck to the only trans guy for well around a 100ish mile's any way but, i dropped the truck off last tuesday and he said he'd check it out next after the 3 allison rebuild's infront of me (Note: less then 100k mile's on the trucks they were destroyed inside thought they were suppose to be top dogs but don't seem all that amazing to me ...back to topic ) and i went by on sunday the truck had not moved. called mutiple time's and was told it was already in the shop on the lift since thursday... but went yesterday to find out any info if on the issue he said he drove the truck and felt the clutch was almost gone and that the 5,6th sync were almost wore out. He said that a master or slave clyinder don't get weak or wear out they just work or don't so he said that could not be the issue (Which i totally disagree with his info) and Said that i need a Dual disc clutch from south bend and the new snyc's and if i'm really lucky that's all.... all in all be about $3500 installed IS this a resonable price (note labor is $75 an hour)

I have been on other website's and asked the question and get flogged for thinking i could just put on a twin over stock kit and a set of headstud's and was informed otherwise. So thank's for the info really got me wanting a set of twins. Do you have a suggestion as in a website to buy from?Thanks for the info i belive i will get a twin set up with my tax return next go around first i'm having the trans looked over and having any weak spots beefed up.

Thanks for the info I belive a box would help alot along with a set of 50-75 hp stick's. An i've always wanted to add twins but everyone tell's me you gotta add awhole lot of stuff like Hot Rod VP44, bigger injector's, Bigger tube's the .093 one's, Bigger intercooler, headstud's, chip or box, headwork not including building the bottom end to hold more presure.... And that would be nice but were talking about 12- 15k right But, if i set it up to only run like 30-35 PSI that's well within the head safezone i belive it lift's at 40psi correct? What is the bottom line of item's to add to have a twin turbo system or is all this a have to have? Iwould go with a system that reuses the stock turbo.

The Probe is pre turbo and only fueling is the FASS 150 gph that i'm aware of never met to orignal owner just the go between dealer.

I have had good luck with LMC truck grill's as well as my friend's have had good luck. I would Stay away from keystone grill's and i have heard some bad review's about the Ebay grille's flaking right away or ariving broke or chiped. so i woud go with LMC my self. Here's the LMC grille's as a guide and price range http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=36 Hope this help's

Ok so as the title say's after my first test run with my new camper. Which i have posted about in another thread in the trailer & RV section. Over all the truck did good had plenty of power to hold 5th gear on flat ground with enough power in reserve to speed up for a long hill. But on those 6% hill's sent me from 5th at 55 mph and 22psi @900 d EGT's to at the top of the hill 3rd at 38-40 mph and 31 psi at 1000-1100 d EGT's. I really couldn't give it more pedal which i had a whole lot of but the egt would jump in a heart beat to yellow but i never got over 1100. So while i was down at the lake i read my Diesel Power mag and would like to hear some of ya'lls thought's on getting a snow performance stage 2 kit for my truck rated to lower my egt's by 250 degree's along with a bump in mpg and Hp/tq. While a new intercooler would be nice at $550 i thought that was a better deal on the whole. But i would like ya'lls advice. look forward to everyones advice.

Just thought i'd update the thread this past Sunday-monday-tuesday. Took the new Trailer to the lake for it's first test run an happy to say the trip was flawless. Had a great time with the family and friend's we went to wax Rv park on Nolin lake got a waterfront spot that we alway's get. The whole trip was 60+/- mile's round trip which was a very hilly road with three hill's over 2 mile's long on a 6% grade with a nearly a 90 degree right turn at the bottom going up the hill. With the truck and trailer fully loaded with supplie's for 3 day's the total trailer weighted in at around 17,500 pd's +/-. To be honest on a mostly stock truck I knew it was back there on those 6% hill's starting at nearly a dead stop at the bottom of each hill. And the constant worry of an Amish buggy at every turn didn't help lol . But out of all the trailer's i have pulled in my time from Dual axel single wheel to Triple axle this dual tandem removed so much stress and worry. The trailer never leaned on rough hills and had to back the brake's down multiple time's combined with down shifting like i have stated before. I filled up the truck at a fivestar drove the 7 mile's home and went down to the rv campground and came back then went back to the station and refilled using a total of 4.932 gallon's of fuel at 74 mile's so i guess 13.9 mpg (hand Cal) when towing 17,500pd's overall very happy.

Thanks again since the kit is alittle higher then i can shell out atm and need the truck back asap i'm gonna buy the slave clyinder first and thorugh it on and then get the master clyinder if i have the cash just don't have enough for the kit. I can live with pumping alittle more till i can get the HD set from South Bend since i'm getting a aftermarket clutch soon aswell.