GreenRiverCummins

So went this week to a local Drag strip for "Amuetaur night" with a few other diesel driving friend's. Took my old Dually in my sig's. Before we got lined up they had everyone open there hood's and show what you've had done and all looked over all the truck's, car's, suv's that were there. I got lined up with a 2007-08 Ford Expedition 5.4 liter, 2wd, auto, all stock, 4 bald tire's, 4 different color paint different on each door. I drive a 4x4 modle expedition every sunday at my second job so i know exaclty what they can and can't do The one i drive has no power to pull even a little trailer we use, gets 7 mpg, it's a horror trying to get up to merge speed on the interstate and his is like new. So i said i got this one in the bag no worrie's..WRONG... So i did the whole Burnout (To a point i got 2 new tire's and 2 bald tire's in the rear that i need to replace lol) Stayed in 2wd, and did a normal take off no boosted launch stuff just there for fun not to blow something up. But I speed shifted(Not a good way to drive but i have done it enough to know how at this point) threw 1-3 had him by 4 car lenghts at 4th then it felt like i hit top end he blew by me half way down an was gone i had no chance from 4th-6th was to the floor from Go to Stop hit top speed of 90 mph at 1050-1100 egt's, 13psi FP, 31pd Boost, and again to the floor what's the speed limiter on these 2nd gen's i know it's 120 on my 2001 360 1500 hit it many times at the track. But 90?? again i know 4x4hi would have helped with the tire spin at the start and a boosted launch would have as well but what might be my problem here i know she's got more to give then that. And i agree its a truck not a challenger had we put 15k on trailer's behind us i'd destroyed him. Of course a tuner and 75-100 stick's are in my near future should the money come up (Praying to win the lottery lol as if) or does that seem normal on a stock truck just curios also if this is not the right place to post this pls move it but since i'm asking about 2gen performance thought it was ok also i'd like to here about any one else who's ran there trucks down the strip to its a lot of fun..even if you don't win .....ok that's a lie losing suck's haha thanks all

I have Farm Beaura Paying $107 a month for Full coverage on my Truck in Sig and Full coverage on my 5th Wheel Camper. With no accidents in 5 years so far at thanks to my neghibor who parked right behind my truck on a hill (On purpose I might add put a dent the size of penny in his car and he totaled it got 500 dollars for the car and a bloody nose and a black eye free of charge from me when he said he did it on purpose) But when i had state farm and had coverage on my 2006 mega cab i paid $380 a month for full coverage....switched back to Farm Beauera paid $150 for better coverage..they quoted me $275 for my current truck... Its crazy i tell ya lol

Tire's look nice what size did you go with? Hope they did better then the last time i had a set of tire's put on at my local sear's I was the first one in the shop (Got there at 8AM/when they opened the door) had 4 285/75/R16 BF goodwrench's put on i kid you not i was there when the closed the door's 7 hour's later....7 whole friggin hour's to change 4 tire's on top of that we spent 30 mins after closing trying to start my truck...For some darn reason they unpluged both batterie's to change my tire's and forgot about it.. Then got down the road and had a terrible wabble pulled over a two wheels were barley on they forgot to tighten them down and the other 2 rim's had 4 stripped lug nut's/stud's costing me $40 dollar's a piece to replace from the dodge dealer..... I came way to close to an assult charge that day wanted to put my boot in the same place there workers head was... needless to i will never ever go back to a sear's for tire change's almost s bad as walmart nowaday's.... They look great on that dually love those wide hip's

Haha yeah i hear ya on the economy stuff i have big plans for all four trucks just no money till i pay my Dually and camper next year $550 a month i get to keep ... bad part is i spend alot of time looking for more addition's to the fleet I'd like a 93 single cab 1st gen cummins and also get a 06 mega cab cummins dually like i used to have and also a muscle car to boot hehe .. but maintaing this fleet is hard enough just for regular maintence and keeping the fuel tanks full which is hard cause i let my father use the half/and 3/4 ton truck's some time's when i fill one up with fuel he uses it till empty then take's the other truck... guess that's pay back for rasing me haha kinda like coming to my house eating my food watching tv and leaveing the lights on and then leaving a mess....

Thanks for the info all sorry to take so long to respond and i will see if i can find a gauge to check the pressure. I'm trying to get him to let me install a fuel pressure gauge in the cab like i got but he "don't see a need for extra gauge's the factory ones are more then enough" for him on a work truck.... but, yeah I agree compelety that the injector pump is long gone and it lost it's pressure when i broke the seal on the filter housing that is why it took forever to reprime it and it's not holding pressure aswell over an extended amount of time. but it took a day to convience him it was the fuel pump and to drop the $100 on a cheap-o let alone a new injector pump guess i'll just have to let it go bad and ruin the motor and say i told ya so can't make him fix it ... Thanks again all will keep y'all updated....

Nice they look great Have you got your camper out any this year? I also had the same idea as you today but, before i hooked all my trailer's up i took my picture lol. From right to left my 2001 Dodge 3500 Cummins, 2001 Dodge 1500 360, 1974 Dodge D300 360, 2001 Dodge 2500 V10... So same as you Moparman i'm alittle overly passoinate when it come's to Mopar's....Mopar or no car!! Ohh and yes those are Tow mirror's on my 1/2 ton cause i tow alot of stuff all the time they are a god send and yes those are stack's on my V10 after 3 ticket's for execssive noise from my Factory, Cherry Bomb, and flowmaster true dual's this is SOOO much quieter lol just wanted to beat people to the punch you have no idea the flak other site's give on those to item's lol

Hello again all so thought i'd toss this out there to get an idea of what the problem may be on our Work truck. So about 6 month's ago When my boss got his replacement truck. a 1998.5 Dodge 3500 Auto,4x4, 24 Val Truck. I went through it (When i could he bought it sight unseen for way more then worth with rust out the butt and not worth the price tag IMHO) But, I replaced every Fluid, Filter, Power steering pump, half the front end (Owners wife said it "like to wander" spent a few thousand replaced every part in the front end no help at all.) But after i Replaced the Fuel Filter, Refilled the canister as all way's with fresh diesel. .....The factory Fuel pump went dead... So after a lot of argeement's about what part went bad(He say's a fuel pump can't just "Go Bad All of a sudden" *Note truck had 200k on factory fuel pump but, he said a stock pump is just as good as a airdog or a Fass<What i strongly fought for but, we went with the $100 autozone pump...After we got it all in and took forever to prime.. i mean over 8 hours..yes 8 a whole work day to get it primed and running. But even now after it sit's for a few hour's you have to pump the pedal while cranking to get it to start up then it runs great and will start and stop unless as stated it sit's for a few hour's. I told him it's bleeding off preesure some where but i've checked every bolt, nut, screw, tap, hose, injector's at least a dozen time's even one's i never touched. Still lt leak's off any idea's cause i'm out of them nothin seem's stripped or broke/Wore out that i can tell but what do y'all think it may be. Thank's for any help

Howdy again all so it's been about a year and a half or 10k mile's since i put on new Brake pads front and rear. and they are begining to squell when i apply them so guess it's time for new one's but, while i'm into it the factory rotor's probaly would like to be relived of duty after 200k mile's. I've been looking around and Found this website from a friend who use's it and like's them http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php . I want the best one's since i'm towing alot of weight most the time so the Drilled and slotted one's are a must. Comparing number's to number's with Napa and this site they are the same other then the material's there made of and a huge price difference But is the quality a huge difference i'd rather not have them fail down a 6% hill with my heavy camper riding me like a horse down hill not that the dual trailer brake's don't work lol Front Napa Price Both side's $320+tax Other website both side's $197.50 no tax + Free shipping Rear Napa Price $330+tax Other Website Both Side's $200.00 no tax + Free shipping Napa Rotor material Created w/ High Carbon Damped Iron Website Rotor Material Premium High Quality Cast Iron It's the word "cast Iron" i hate i'm a farm machinery Mechanic and deal with Cast iron every darn day and i hate it so so so much by far the dumbest thing man invented in many many year's it's break amazing easy can't take heat at all and if hot then cool cracks very easy but this is 40 year old cast not sure if new stuff is better any opinion's would be great

Thanks all for the info and suggestion's I would love to find one of the Fummins Excursion's seen one on ebay sale a few weeks ago for 8,500 had a 93 12 valve with a 2001 NV5600 awesome to a new level. I test drove This great looking truck the other day http://www.anthonysautos.com/index.php/component/ezautos/ezautos/301-1999-f450 and to be honest it was a huge let down compared to my HO 24val 6spd had half the power tranny wouldn't stay in gear (Shifter would just pop out of gear under any load) And the white smoke it belched out for mile's this truck had only 205k same as my 24val atm. This was the 5th Powerstroke i have drove this year I alway's hear what a powerhouse they are and i assume after a crap ton of money they may well be but my truck could walk all over all i've tested this far... and it's stock for the most part... And I would love to try the new 1/2 ton diesel's but 46k is a little step for me lol So guess y'all may have talked me back into a Mega Cab they just ruin you with that size inside and those Old School looking Dually bed's just made them Perfect IMHO I will keep y'all posted should i buy something on this list. Here's a pic of mine the day before a Geo totaled her...

So i've got my truck down to only a few more payments and my camper is half-way paid off along with a few other bill's getting close to paying off. And I've narrowed the Choice's of my next payment down to 3 I'm really looking for a nice daily driver/ocasinaly mower/Boat hauler Yes they are all alittle overkill for a DD/minor tower but my job require's i have a tow vehicile at all time's so a 4banger won't cut it lol. #1 1989-93 Dodge 350 Reg cab dually (W/WO 4x4 Depend's) Cummins/intercooled Stick Shift with under 300k miles I've been keeping a close eye on the old First gen market in hope's of someone coming to there sense's and selling one for a realistic price say 5-7.5k But for some reason people believe these truck's are worth 10-20k beat to piece's with no paint or rusting in half or got a million mile's on them. I'm as Mopar crazy as anyone but i'm not dumb enough to give 14k for a high milage rust bucket dodge or not but a man can wish can't he... #2 2006 Dodge Mega Cab 3500 6spd (W/WO 4x4 Depend's) Cummin's mileage not a biggy I've owned one like this and dearly miss it...it was totaled 2 year's ago and have keep my eye's peeled for one since then... i gave 15k for mine 3 year's ago with 99k mile's on it 300k when totaled drove like new pulled like a train. But same as #1 asking 27-40k for a high mileage truck in decent shape is crazy. #3 2000-2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3 Diesel So this one is kinda a odd one but i have alway's loved the Ford Excursion's since they released them(Really wished dodge had tried the same with the Ram in some way) The Looks, the size just everything i want plus ton's of room... But, My neighbour has had 3 of them in 2 year's his first a 2000 with the V10 had decent power but got around 6mpg empty or loaded sold it after a few month's Then came the 2001 7.3 which was in his opinion the best but he had constant trouble with the glow plug's and the HPOP replaced both twice in 6 month's then came the 2005 with the 6.0 *Shiver's* Wow what a piece of junk that motor was only 40k mile's on it and replaced nearly every part on the motor twice and the motor it's self once... But the worst part is they seem to have absolutly no rearend strength at all even a 5x8 trailer with a Dixion zero turn caused it to bottom out even broke the bump stops off one day...I assumed they used the 3/4 ton frame as a base or am i wrong is there any way to make these decent for even minor towing of said trailer or a boat not looking for a full on tow monster just to pull my craftsman without the rearend snaping in half... Thanks for reading and look forward to y'alls help on this

Thanks for the info will get on that and also I have been looking around to see which is the best way to go about Strut's/Shock's on the truck the ride is getting rough and is bumpy at times with this size camper which brand/style would be best. Also I had an 06 Mega cab that came with Rear airbag's and they were great when hauling a load of 14 2k rolls of hay on our gooseneck would keep the load level at all time's and the ride was amazing for a dodge again which brand and size would best fit my truck/camper set up they need to be strong for this kind of weight Thanks for the info and all the help thus far

Cool thanks for the info y'all and sorry i took so long to respond work has been heck this week... And i would like to get a total weight on the Truck/Trailer if i knew where i could do that at? But i will check into getting a Edge and some of those RV275 injector's soon. I plan on taking this pair to piegion forge in the next year and i know it would be unsafe to get down there and have it get to hot exhaust wise. With all those big hill's and all thanks again

Hello again all, Howdy folks been awhile since i logged in but just got back from our first trip to our favorite campsite on the lake. This was the first time going to this site with this camper (This site is the farthest and has the most hill's and curve's). So i'll put the info up on my setup: Truck: 2001 Dodge 3500 ex.cab LB Dually 4x4 5.9 HO Cummins 24valve 6 speed 3:54 gear's Upgrade's: Motor wise BHAF, Aftermarket intake horn, Fass 150gph Fuel pump, Bank's Big head wastegate, of course EGT, Fuel pressure, Boost gauge's. Tranny wise South Bend 3250 Dual disk clutch, South Bend Upgraded Slave/Master cly. Hitch: Reese fifth Wheel Rail's with Reese 30k Gooseneck adapter hitch Trailer Hitch: Bulldogg 26k 5er to Gooseneck adapter Trailer 1998 Newmar moutain air 39BRSK 40' Dual tandem rear axel's with front and rear brake's, Total Trailer weight 18,000pd's (Can provide pic of build sheet if in doubt it does weigh that much when fully loaded for a trip) So to get to the point the truck can stop the trailer with ease (With and with out the trailer brake's on found that out by accident wire got pulled out of fitting). And taking off from a dead stop both on flat ground and on a hill is not a challenge my real issue is getting up to 55+ when getting on the interstate or just getting to speed at all. The drive from my house to the lake is about 30 mile's one way 80% is 6% grade up or down and 90% curve's( if you've ever been to kentucky you'll understand...)But after 3rd gear my egt's climb like a jack rabbit... from 800F in 3 at 35-40mph to 1150 in 4th at 45-50 mph at 30PSI boost. after i get to 55 i stay n 5th gear i know to stay out of 6th but, on most hills i got to drop to 3rd and by the time i get to the top i'm crawling to a point around 35-40 mph since it's about a right or left turn at the bottom of the hill going up. I was hoping for some insight into what to buy next injector's, Twin turbo's, intercooler, tuner??? there's so many ways to go what is my best route with this setup and it will take time as i'm alittle short on cash after the camper buying and all lol on a sidenote the original owner who sold this camper to the dealer i got it from who then put me in touch with him bought his camper and truck the same day in 1998 for the last 15 year's he pulled this monster all over the south with a 1998 dodge 1500 excab LB 4x4 auto 360 truck...which i said BS till he showed me a few dozen family photo's of them all over the place... this man was insane my dually cummins now's it back there for a fact he was either nut's or had brass nut's to do that with a half ton but he never once had a moment's trouble...

So on a 150 mile round trip with my family at about 40 mile's in my Check Gage light came on and i seen the Volt Gauge go from 14 to 0. We were unable to turn around due to Family health reason's but we did pull over and check the Belt, pop the belt loose, and checked the alt bearing. Checked the terminals all good so we we had to drive the remainer of the trip with no trouble batterie's stayed fully charged/Sparked when replaceing the terminal's. So today i removed and recleaned the terminal's sanded all the grd's i could reach, replaced all the fitting's on the wire end's, removed the alt had it tested at 2 store's it checked out good had the batteries tested as well all checked out checked for exposed wire's, bad fuses, and so on then added a second volt gauge it read's 14 while the fac read's 10-11 So i'm lost is it the PCM or the Gauge cluster going bad will it cause an issue to ignore the fauilty gauge cause i'm gonna leave the new gauge in place as a safety can never have to many gauge's Thanks in advance for any help or info - - - Updated - - - Update took the alt back off and took it to a friend who is the best alt/starter man I've ever seen looked it over tore all the way down and found piece that was wore in half and in 5 mins and 30 dollars later he had her Running awesome on the truck took it for a 50 mile round trip to town and no worries she's holding 15 volt on the fac gauge and 14 1/2 on the aftermarket gauge. I asked him why it passed in the test at 2 store's he informed me that those type machines can't test the equipment a fraction of what is required to diagnose anything other then a a loose wire. I'm inclined to believe him seeing how he's been doing this for almost 45 years now.

Only driven the truck about 50 mile's as of now and haven't had the chance to tow the camper up or down hill's. But empty it is a bit grabby when downshifting compared to stock not sure if it will become less as time goes on. But so far happy it's amazing how easy the clutch is to shift through the gear's. Further update's to come

Just giving a quick update went this morning and picked my truck up. Had to wait an extra day due to the shop being closed due to sickness.....And the owner was fair enough to throw in a new Master/Slave kit on free of charge and no install fee on top of that for all the issue's and delays he caused. Turn's out my old clutch was nearly gone and the preesure plate had mutiple bent finger's. My Master also had a small leak internaly so that's why he tossed that on at no charge. I gotta say i really like the Clutch so smooth to drive has so much power now that it's not slipping. It is alittle grabby in first from a dead stop and does the same down shiffting but it more then make's up for it towing my camper which i hooked up to for alittle test run. give update's as i drive it more.

I haven't checked with a dealer on price (which alway's has a hugh mark up) but, my local napa has the kit in stock and for $199.99. I refuse to buy from autozone or advanced as they sell 2nd, 3rd and return defect's which i know for fact about this. So becarful of were you buy it from.

I agree with Dripley on this really sound's like your Master/Slave is going much cheaper and alot easier to put the whole set on and no bleeding required.

I went with a DD due to my job i work at a farm implement store and regularly haul multiple tractor's and equipment or my camper once a week during the summer. Average weight is 26k GCVWR with my camper and 30k+ when hauing for work. I checked around and most of the people i know went single disk and regret it one is on his 2 SD in under a year and other's won't try to pull as much due to worrieing about destroying a clutch or worse if it fail's at the wrong time. Ialsochecked with my trans shop, Thoroughbred Diesel, and South Bend they all highly advised a DD over single. I'd prefer to have more then needed then need and not have. But that's just me i also plan on adding more item's as far as power goes just want a solid base to build on.Did the pedal seem soft or sponge or stiff or even shorter compared to normal as in very little travel down and back when preesing?

i was able to squeze out about 1,xxx mile's before the pedal refused to come back up on it's own and was just dead. And i also had fluid on the master cylinder rod but won't know anything till tomorrow maybe the other's can help till then

Got my Clutch kit in today at 1 o'clock CST and dropped it off at the trans shop. He told me to call before i got it so he could go ahead and have the old one out and ready for the new one cause my truck is my living. So i called at 9 his time and informed him UPS had me down for delivery at 12 his time. Got there at 1 the truck still sitting turns out his Secratery/ Daugther "Forgot to tell him i called" so i have to wait another day or more since he moved other customer's ahead of me. I had to pay extra for quicker delivery due to need of truck so wasted that money and costing me money just sitting there. So i hope he will pick up the slack on there end and get my truck fixed. Fill y'all in as soon as i get the truck back on how i like the new Clutch

I'm actucly experienceing the same issue and I find out tomorrow if it is my Clutch (which i just got my new South bend dual disc clutch in today and droped off this morning) or if i also need a Master/Slave Clyinder but at that milage it need's replaceing before they do go out and your away form home as mine did. Speed shifthing for a 20 mile's is not fun or advised but you gotta do what ya can as i did haha i'll fill ya in tomorrow if it get's done.

Thanks for the tips guy's much appriceated and i contacted FASS through facebook and asked them about the low psi they asked if i had checked the little spring and ball as y'all suggested. It rained for hours today and was unable to check but i do see a crack in the line toward the front and it is very very dry rotted the whole length of the hose so gonna order a new 1/2 line kit as they also suggested from Vulcan performance. next friday and will fill y'all in at that point. Thank's again

Thank's for the info guess i'll just get some new bolt's from arp when i get the chance to change them. How much trouble are they to come out . The truck has no rust/southern truck it's whole life. But i fear the first time i try to lossen the bolt's they will shear apart is it best to let the truck warm up then remove the bolt's or just soak them for a day or two with penatrating oil?

So had the thought after changing my FASS 150 gph filter's and still only holding 13psi same at idle, driving and 12 1/2WOT. Would it be at all benifical to place a inline fuel pump between the FASS and VP44? When i changed the lift pump on our work truck only cost $150 at napa and it was a simple two wire horisontial pump with a inlet and outlet not the stock canister type and it really moved the fuel (No Gauge we bucket tested it). Would it raise the PSI or just pull the fass more with no real affect. In a sense burning the fass pump up. Just a thought kinda like a Dual CP3 on newer truck's. Any thought's?