QuadRunnerJake

By the way @Mopar1973Man the only reason I decided on the 150's was because of your experience with them. I am very happy thus far. I haven't had them in long enough to really tune them for the stock hx.. but at 320bar im relatively happy with the smoke control with the mild fuel curve I threw together thus far..

So I'm running 7x10 vco's. I picked them up recently with a s366 and some compound piping. I grabbed a pop tester on eBay and cleaned swapped and shimmed the OEM injectors with the new tips. My local injector shop said 160 an hour to shim my injectors leading to me doing it myself for a little cheaper. Needless to say I am no longer running wire tap and much less duration.. I have an SO pump so the tired h/o injectors requires a lot of duration to get power down low. EGT's are a non issue for me right now with the water meth even with relatively fat fueling curve and not a lot of cfm. 2 stages at around 10gph combined @30psi boost. I Missed out on an aem flow gauge that was for sale near by so cant give you specific cc/min. I appreciate the help. I still haven't picked a turbo I want as a primary. I'm doing a budget street build to push the limits of driveability and peak power of the SO VP. Specifically I want a truck with minimal turbo lag and the ability to make 600+ HP. I plan on testing a d-valve out on the compound set up. Right now I'm mostly focused on finding a primary.

I'm looking at purchasing an s475 to replace my s366 I got unintentionally.. I found a boostlabs s475 83 .90 T4 for sale brand new for $600 on marketplace.... I would be using it for twins so the t4 has got to go. I hear there are 2 different CHRA's on the t4 vs t6 turbos. That being said how would I go about swapping to a 1.10 or similar t6 housing. Need completely new bearings housing and turbine housings?? That sounds far too expensive to be worthwhile. From what I can tell the bearing housings a mostly identical except for the diameter where the exhaust housing clamps on. Also what's the deal with the 83/74 and 87/80 and 88/96 wheel sizes. Which would work best with a 1.10ish housing? I plan on running ported hx35/s475 but will probably step up to a 62mm secondary eventually. This medium and large frame s400 crap is throwing quite a bit of complexity into finding a usable turbo in my area used.

If it were me I would use that in line pump you have on the shelf. Grab a float sensor like snow uses in the water meth kits. Wire it into a relay with the float switch being wired into the relays coil circuit and mount it in your oe fuel tank. This way the system is autonomous and shuts off with the float valve. You can wire in multiple floats for peace of mind and wire in a led of your choosing so you can tell the pump is running.

Im not sure how far along in the project you are but I successfully changed my negative switched 3 wire headlights. I recommend grabbing a fuse and relay box from Amazon cheap. I grabbed one that holds 6 relays and 6 fuses and wired it myself. you can buy them pre wired as well with just a loom sticking out the end for simplicity. I installed BiLED NHK projectors which have 4 wires, pos/neg and 2 nonpolar for the hibeam solenoid. I used cut up headlight bulbs as the adapters and soldered wire to the leads then filled with hot glue for insulation. I was able to use one relay per headlight operating both high and low beam functions. For the wiring I used 2 forward bias shottky diodes per headlight to address backfeeding. The bileds I used cost about 120. The housings cost me 100, wire and diodes another $30 or so. They pull around 10 amps each and have a great cutoff line. Definitely removed a ton of load on the electrical system.

Doesn't matter if it's not leaking fuel. Diesel needs a much larger space to weep from than air needs to get in. Replace any lines with visible cracks, make sure the fittings are secured (i used hose clamp over the push lock fittings) also recommend replacing copper washers on the VP where the return and supply lines are. Check all connections to make sure they are tight but do not over tighten! That's all the advice I got. We seem to get paranoid about VP failure once it happens when in reality the current iterations of the VP are quite reliable. I did blow up a VP under warranty one time but that was because the fass pump seized and starved it for fuel. I was able to hide the fact it was wire tapped with a posi-tap by melting a small amount of black plastic from the top of a black spray paint can over the small puncture created by the posi. Then I lightly marred all the wires with pliers to match the look of the tapped one making it indistinguishable from the others.

If you are pulling it by yourself I highly recommend separating the Tcase from the trans. The t case makes that heavy trans a whole lot heavier and much more awkward to maneuver in and out. With 1 or 2 larger persons helping I would say yeah give it a go pulling it all together otherwise you are going to be fighting it.

Holy crap man, you must've really cranked on those. But who am I to talk when I stripped my abs module out when replacing brake lines... Anyways, anytime you have flared lines you can't go crazy with torque. Just a good snug will do. It's always better to not go tight enough and spring a minor leak than go too tight and strip out the pump or destroy HP lines. I would definitely recommend grabbing a used set off eBay or marketplace or even a local wrecking yard. 9/10 they are in great shape. Also I do not see the necessity in using crow feet for the lines. I got mine off with standard wrenches.

Recently I've been getting after some much needed maintenance on my 24v. So while I replace my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump seals I'd like to throw in some valve springs, valve seals, head studs, and any other seals/components I can get to at the same time. I know the valve guides are known to wear on 24v's so I'll make sure to take a peek at those too. I just rolled over 200k. So my questions are: What seals should I use for the valve stems? I hear something about CR seals being used as an upgrade? What other components/seals should I be replacing/inspecting at the same time?

Thank you all for the help. The issues I was experiencing were a result of poor connection at driver side battery terminals. I have no idea why the issues only happened at highway speeds and when hot. Nonetheless, I got the cables right and all issues resolved.

Great write up! Terrible web-formating by MoparMan. Literally a page full of bright white ads and greyed out difficult to read text over a black background. Members should be able to use ad block to at least make the page readable. I mean jeez, it's so bad I thought the problems were on my end.

One thing to note with the fass system... The relay and fuse holder isn't the best quality. I highly recommend buying an aftermarket fuse and relay box that has covers and mount it somewhere dry. Then anytime you add a circuit you will have a nice empty relay box with fuse holders to make it quick and easy. My original relay holder kept frying relays and eventually melted due to it not being mounted upright and away from the heat of the motor. Ground the pump to the frame, not the battery. Also note the blue fuel lines fass uses suck they will dry and crack and leak in no time. Highly recommend going with a better hose.

Have had neither of those symptoms. My rpm gauge also likes to bounce around 100rpm+- if that is relevant. It's done that for a very long time though. Before my first VP

It didn't run the best not gonna lie. Realized at the same time the fuel filter wasn't flowing very well either. The whole reason I noticed the LP died was because of the fuel starving. Fast forward to today the truck makes more power than it ever did before. It runs great on short trips around town. Especially running it hard. Never acts up other than on the highway or after being on the highway for hours I can get it to do that Throttle hang up issue. Has anyone ever had their truck just hang up during free revving? I can rev it hard up to 3k then it will drop down to 2k hang there sounding kinda like its missing then come down. I haven't replaced the apps or injectors before and it's got 200000. I have some 7x10 nozzles in my garage. Nozzles I just bought for $100. I was planning on pop testing them at home and reshimming as necessary with a little homemade pop tester using a cheap bottle jack and pressure gauge.

So I got a P0122 and the companion code so gotta scan for the rest. P0122 is apps I thought but idk the pump hanging when hot makes me think the VP is done. I just bought a s472 and 150hp nozzles for my compound aspirations so this will be an expensive month lol.